Citadel Painting Guides:

>Citadel Painting Guides:
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>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
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>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
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>DIY Lightbox
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>How to Moldlines
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>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
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>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
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>Stripping Paint
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>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
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How would I go about getting a candy/metallic red without an airbrush? I saw some good tutorials for how to get nice metallic blue/green Alpha Legion posted in /wip/ before; can I use a similar method to do red?

I want to end up around the color in pic related.

See that flecking in brown and green. That's from the airbrush. What causes it, how do I stop it?

This is the first thing I've painted in years and I know the chipping is really shit. I'm still getting into the swing of thinning my paints properly to a reliable consistency so some of the chipping came out like a wash and some came out like unthinned paint, and I could never tell which one I would get until I applied it.

Actually, nevermind. I bet I figured it out. There's a valve on my airbrush that controls atomisation and I have it all the way open. If I close that it'd probably fix the problem.

I should play with my tools more.

Leadbelcher+Magnus the Red tint

Legends speak of a Tibetan monastery where the monks within train for years to achieve perfect hand brushed candy coats. Seek them out, and with the proper dedication, you too can achieve what a trained chimp with a double action can do.

The only way to get that tint is from the $50 set, right? Are they any 3rd party red tints I can buy that serve the same purpose?

Airbrushes are out of my price range currently. Besides, I'm only doing metallic armor on one model.

Tamiya Clear Red

>Tamiya Clear Red
I've heard of this before, but I've only seen it used in airbrushes. Can I brush it on or use it like a wash/glaze?

You can brush it but it's a very thick and syrupy paint so you're probably going to get a splotchy coverage and brush strokes. Since it's only one model maybe you'll have the patience to thin it down and do 5+ coats, but Tamiya also requires alcohol/X-20A Tamiya thinner.

New project in progress: make a Sydonian Dragoon proxy sans gimp servitor.

Far from finished, but if you were to stat out a Sydonian Dragoon as Cavalry instead of a light Walker, how would you stat it without it sucking?

Tonight's painting practice to build skill. Gonna try to get the red armor done tonight. The plan is to do a Khorne Red base, a Kindleflame drybrush, and a wash of Carroburg Crimson.

This is one of my first models painted.

Love it, could so with some guitar wire running from the head to the chest.

I'll make due with as much. I also intend to replace the spine and have some hanging off to form the tail. Also deserves a mane, probably out of tech. And more sockets.

Rider will be the regular Dragoon rider with not much more in the way of changes. This is just the very basic first step. Also the horse is a Reaper Bones Unicorn because I couldn't find a cheap, plastic horse in the rearing pose I wanted.

Not quite the same but for my Alphas I just found a metallic blue paint (which handily enough turned slightly green when diluted with P3 platinum)

So maybe try to find a metallic red?

More wip terrain.
Did a modular board for mordhiem/ frostgrave setting

...

Also trimmed up 200 popsicle sticks for wood planks

last one

Painted another Tau with a different scheme because I didn't like the blue one much. I like the red one better, but I think the blue emblem is still too loud

I gotta make up my mind so I can actually start on painting this army.

That's enough for today I think. I got the armor looking good then proceeded to ruin everything with the eyes and silver bits.

The fucking freehand was a nightmare. I really need to get some new brushes and get a new pot of Ceramite White. I think mine is botched.

>Painted another Tau
If wouldn't have posted evidence I wouldn't have believed you.

In all seriousness though, they look pretty good user. Though I do get the feeling they're going to start fighting over some forts in a box canyon pretty soon so be careful.

Progress on my Lord of Plagues so far.

Feedback welcomed and appreciated.

Not gonna lie, painting Nurgle mini's are great fun.

I definitely like the left better, but the right would look a lot better with a different colour instead of blue (maybe either white or black)

I really need a better camera and light too.

Finished my first dude, /wip/!

Pretty soon they'll start wondering why they're there.

Aaand a shot of the ultramarines emblem, which i cannot fucking follow for the life of me. Hopefully it'll be better on my other marines.

-inside rims of the pauldrons should be silver (I think)
-either dot the end of the barrel with black paint or drill it.

Other than that, looks table top at first glance. There are a couple of places where you've not painted in the lines but its miles better than my first dude, and fucktons better than not painting them.

I'm a bit nervous about barrels, since I have fucking zero hand-eye coordination (For more information, please see pauldrons), but I'll give it a shot once I have the rest of these dudes done.

Cheers, man!

>not painting them.

Are massive gray tide a thing in your area ?
I mean, I often saw (or even played with) non painted unit, by non painted army never.

(Also, when I started as a I child some fifteen years ago, red shirt would tend to scold you if you came too often with the same non painted/non based models I'm still too lazy to correctly base them )

All goods cuz. Are you going to play 40k or are you just painting for the Hecks?

I wouldn't know user, I've never played a game in a store. Most of my IG and Ork stuff is either third party, paperhammer or scratchbuilds, so I've always been frightened of taking them to stores/clubs.

Gonna play 40k when I have a job and enough money to buy more dudes, until then i'm just painting these guys for the hecks.

I don't want to shill, but seriously consider doing a Horus Heresy era Ultramarine army as opposed to a 40k one.

Most of the people at my GW play 40k, so I'm gonna stick with 40k ultras. But i'm probably gonna mix in some Heresy armours and maybe a Contemptor or two, because that shit is balling.

You can still play against 40k armies, but I feel you bro.

looking good, the armour especially. you've got much more patience for edge highlighting than i do

signed,
the guy with the same model from the last thread

That looks great! How did you paint the skin and boils?

Yo saved this from an previous WIP, Does anyone know the conversion parts?

the standard, sword arm and maybe the bolter arm are from the burning ofprospero box, maybe

I just followed the how to paint Putrid Blightkings on Warhammer TV. It goes, XV-88, Balor Brown then Ushabti Bone is successive smaller circles on the bone. I finished it off with a bit of Nurgles Rot.

Thanks man, here's him finished. I'm working on the base now.

* Boil not bone. How to paint the skin is a bit more in depth, I really recommend giving the tutorial a look as it really helps!

damn, you work fast!
if i could offer any advice, and far be it for me to given the stark difference in our ability, is i'd try to blend the horns a bit more, but i personally just like the white to brown gradients you see on some nurgle models

The legs and the arms (I think) are from the BoP tartaros, the chest and backpack are BaC Mark IV, with cut-off random parts (a skull, obviously, but also nozzles (?), it's not clear) for the other two. The gubbinz and weapons are from either BaC or BoP (BoP appearing more common).
The line down the middle of the torso appears to be plasticard, perhaps from the torsos being sawn in half and extended using the plasticard. That would explain the placement of the icons over the central chest piece, and the relative increase in the "headroom".
The shoulderpads appear to be standard resin Mark III pads.

Looks like Tartaros pattern termiantor arms and legs, and standard mkiv torso with extra bit of plasticard in the middle

Cheers, I had LoTR on in the background. it helps.

Yeah that's what I went for really, I prefer the contrast over the really slick blends because it creates a nice focal point for the model.

Thanks guys for the responses, just wanted to try and make some truescale marines and thought these guys looked good enough.

Investigate it more is my advice. I believe I've seen better truscale/artscale marines, mostly using the Cataphractii legs.

Faaatheeeeeeeeeeeeeer!!!

red/10
Nice work on the wings, user.

Man. Not trying to shit on yours, but that other user's Magnus really set a high bar for that particular model in these threads.

>tfw everyone in these threads paints better than I ever could

I'd probably paint more if I stopped coming into these threads

I don't fucking get it guys, I can't stop painting red. No matter what army I choose I almost always end up painting them red.
>Mars Cult Ad Mech Dominus, Vanguard amd Duncrawler
>113rd Lambdan Lions Tempestus Squad
>Hive Fleet Behemoth Swarmlord
>Bloody Hand Helions and Kabalite Warriors
>Blood Angels Terminators
>Even painted a box of Rubric Marines as the Crimson Sons
Fuck?! Help me. The only non-red 40k i have is a squad of Nikilakh Lychguard. What can I buy that has NO red faction colour?

>Fuck?! Help me. The only non-red 40k i have is a squad of Nikilakh Lychguard. What can I buy that has NO red faction colour?
I don't think it's a problem with the official factions. You could have chosen any.

You either really, really like red a lot more than you consciously realize, or you have trouble stepping out of your comfort zone.
I recommend you just pick a color other than red for your next project and stick to it.
Paint a random one-off miniature. Doesn't have to be an entire army either.

Holy fucking faggot I've told you over the last 5 threads just get a generic cheap one from aliexpress, they're the same as the army painter one and work really well.

I guess it's subconscious because I only realised that almost all of my models are red the other day.
I think I'm going to start to build on my Necrons

Rate my Seraphim you blasphemous heretics.
Please and thank you.

finecast/10

they're big minis

for you

Between waiting for glue to dry, scraping mold lines, and figuring out how the glue on the pistol, pic related took two fucking hours to build.

Fuck me...

A little messy for my tastes, but overall they look great, especially the faces and eyes. 7/10

These threads can work wonders for my confidence as someone who considers their painting shit
Seeing things I'd be ashamed of putting on a table getting called good or pretty is real nice

Magnus vs Magnus. Who would win? Magnus.

don't be rude user

>youtube.com/watch?v=AniH_l_ViTE

Looks great, user. Is the entire torso and neck greenstuff or equiv putty? I can see that turning out into a really great fleshy texture if you paint it up as a horse's body converted into a servitor or whatever.

>t. Elitist bellend

I wanted to call him out too, but I think he's being self-deprecating because he's realising that he's merely the victim of his own dangerously high standards.

Yeah I don't see why people think I'm being an ass. I said i consider my painting bad, so obviously this is a wakeup call to say hey maybe it isn't so bad after all.
People get too defensive too fast

Bane?

It's more that there are some people who come into /wip, shit all over everyone else and then never post examples of their own work to critique.

I understood what you meant, but it is also easily read as 'wow all you guys are awful at painting, I'm not even good but you're all worse' instead of what you intended.

Theatricality and deception are powerful agents to the uninitiated... but we are initiated, aren't we Cultist?

Paints properly thinned/10

I've heard some people got good results using the new GW gemstone paints on the whole model.

Shading and highlighting seems like it might be a bitch though.

You might want to get the baseing paint off the feet. Actually, crackle paint bases are one of the best times to finish the base and then just glue the mini on top.

Otherwise, pretty solid for a first dude.

Yeah if I'm honest I read it exactly how you explained.

Duncan bless.
I really should, but I'm not sure how to go about it without fucking up the feet or the surrounding paint.

Cool, bought the same kit about a month ago and also did 'em, seems like I was a bit too stingy on the paint for the base (not on the pic since the finished one is blurry as fuck) but I think it still looks good. But you seriously need to neaten up your shit m8.

On a side note, are the three tacticals from the Start Painting kit usable on tabletop? 2 of them don't even have a sidearm, just a bolter. I'm guessing 'count as' only?

That's legit awful though.

What I did before I realized I should do it first was:
1. Use the edge of a razor to pop off the raised crackle pieces.
2. Gently sand off the remaining crackle paint.
3. Carefully repaint as much as the foot as necessary to look natural. Plenty of natural breaks on the foot to limit the work needed.

Or if that's too much hassle (I totally understand), a strategically placed piece of shrubbery might hide some of it.

Also, I'm looking again: Did you get some on the inner knee? Throw some paint over that! Never be embarrassed to go back and clean up. Makes all the difference, even once you've been doing this for a while.

Is it by any chance Pentart Metallic Teal?

I wouldn't go that far user, I think he's done a good job, but was perhaps a bit overzealous with the nuln oil.

Gonna grab a small layer brush tomorrow and give him another pass. Should be easier with a smaller brush.
Yeah, I'm just gonna strategic shrubbery him.

Dude.

Huge gaps everywhere, sprue nubs standing out. Armour only half painted and some panels, like on the wings, glued on incorrectly. Nipplehorns and loincloth not even fully basecoated and not a single detail painted.

I have seen much, much worse.

Why don't you post some of your stuff since you know how to make things perfect???

Not an argument.

The guy you're replying to is right. It's a very expensive model done very poorly. Blowing smoke up this guy's ass isn't doing him any favours.

>Why don't you post some of your stuff since you know how to make things perfect???
art criticism deflection 101.

If you insist.

>Not an argument.
Since when has saying this become a thing? You are not in a position to declare statements to be of no inherent value whatsoever.
The very point of an argument is to convince whomever you are talking to by pointing out the flaws in his logic and make him see things your way by presenting yours.
Flatout saying 'you're wrong' is the best way to make sure everything else you say goes unheard. Even if he is wrong.

>The guy you're replying to is right. It's a very expensive model done very poorly. Blowing smoke up this guy's ass isn't doing him any favours.
Saying 'legit awful' isn't helpful either though.
Which is why constructive criticism is so important.

Just saying.

That doesn't give him the right to act like an arsehole though. He should have pointed out the flaws in the first place instead of just being a dick.

Granted it's very well done. But doesn't excuse you being a dick in the first place

But he did list all the things wrong with the model, after which you came out with a gradeschool retort

>Why don't you post some of your stuff since you know how to make things perfect???
And it seems he did post 'how to make things perfect'.

People like this really make me hate this board sometimes. Granted If something is terrible by all means call it out, but at least have the decency to help them rectify where they've gone wrong... after all isn't that why we're here? To improve as painters?

Being rude just makes you look like a prick.

Pointing out something is not an argument is not about it having value or not, it's a statement of fact.

A, rights don't exist.
B, if they did he had free speech and being an arsehole falls firmly into that. Do you think we're on Tumblr or some shit? Being an arsehole is what chans are all about.

But he did point out what was wrong after which the guy started defending his shitty model with 'lol let's see you do it better'

>after which you came out with a gradeschool retort
you are confusing me with someone else.
I just jumped in there because that way of talking to each other leads nowhere.
Except shit flinging and pointless internet fights.

you're replying to the wrong person. I'm the one who asked him to post his stuff. is someone else.

There's a difference between constructive criticism and tearing into someone.

>being a knobhead is ok because we're on Veeky Forums

What a sad life you must lead user

Nonces

> But doesn't excuse you being a dick in the first place
I actually wasn't being a dick. It's a simple matter of fact that you model looks bad. If I were a dick I would have insulted your incompetence along the way. And you seem to forget that I even, very graciously, pointed out a few of the most egregious mistakes you made.
And lastly, you aren't owed anything here and acting like a spoiled child won't help you get your way either.

But nevermind, I'm done with you and your shitty model.

Says the guy whining about people talking about toy soldiers on an anonymous image board.

Go outside, I'm sure people care so much about your feelings and how upset you are by Veeky Forums that you will have crows flocking to you in appreciation of your white knighting a shit model that looks like a kid with down syndrome built and painted it.

>bluntly pointing out problems with basic assembly is "being a knobhead"
If it were just being rude about mold lines or some shit I could maybe understand your indignation, but gaps that wide on a model that large really shouldn't exist.

Again, the model wasn't mine. I wasn't just sticking up for him. It's all very well and good telling him what he's done with wrong, but how is he to improve if you don't want explain how? Just saying 'this is shit, that's wrong, that's bad' instead of 'that's bad, but here's how to improve it'.

You're obviously an accomplished painter, Andrea you have an abundance of time as shown with your arguments here... so why don't you use that time to help the poorer painters get better instead of being an edgy shitposter?