WIP: Work in Progress

Hazard stripes could have been cleaner and need some highlighting. They mostly look the same as last time you posted them.

And these guys are the current WIPs.

That's a nice project user! I'd be amazin to see them all on a diorama, with each in their own mini-zone (like a 3d collage of legions in their "natural habitat"), or instead of each alone pair them up based on rivalries

I want them all assembled so I can have a massive priming session and then paint them as and when I feel like it, instead of having all of them sit on sprue in their boxes staring at me, judging me.

I don't like that your SoH is basically black with some green patches, I'd have preferred it the other way round.
I really like the Dark Angel, checkerboarding looks awesome

What is /wip/'s opinion on photo manipulation?

Yesterday's shitposting fest led me to talk to a professional photographer friend and had him walk me through what he would do to take pictures of minis and I was surprised to find that the last step he had me do was go through and start manipulating the photo.

Pic related; left is the raw photo, right is after some adjustments. I can definitely see why he had me do it -- in reality, that gray background was nearly blinding white but phone cameras are stupid and have to balance everything out so it came out grey, and so the manipulation was basically to unfuck what the phone fucked with. The picture on the right does absolutely look truer to the actual appearance of the mini. But... it does still feel like cheating.

What do you guys think? Is this a line too far, or is anything that makes the picture better something worth pursuing?

>massive priming session
If rattlecan, you'll need a bowl of warm (NOT boiling) water and to make sure you don't stop shaking that motherfucker, you'll be at a real risk of the propellant becoming too cold and not giving you enough pressure.

The imperial fist looks weird because he's not flat footed. It's like he's pole vaulting or hopping on the spot.

I tweak brightness/contrast/hue/saturation of pics of my minis to match reality closer than raw pics can.

Almost every photo we use to learn:
>Demon winners
>box art
>tutorials
>White Dwarf

has been manipulated. I don't tend to do it in /wip/ because cropping and resizing is enough for people to give the sort of feedback I need, but I absolutely have nothing against it.

this

Thanks for the review! Indeed, atmosphere and composition are two subjects I still need to understand and practice, as I haven't painted many display pieces yet. For this one my main focus was to practice NMM and apply color theory, I'll definitely keep composition in mind in my next work.

Photo manipulation can make an average photo better, and is a staple of professional photography (it's also the reason why studio images tend to seem noticeably brighter than the models are in reality).

generally speaking it's going to be better to just get a better lighting/diffusion setup, but some editing in post usually won't hurt

I've added rivet highlights as recommended

hes coming along

Real nice, my mind instantly jumps to this.

Much as i love the work, I just can't help feel making the crass so red takes away from the art on the panels.

It looks good up close and feels realistic but it might steal some "pop"

tehehe

Looks great.
Now put a drop of nuln around every rivet and a dot of bright silver on top after.

I do it on my phone as well. Nothing much, just changing a few settings before the picture to capture the light better and some colour correction afterwards to balance everything.

And as everyone said, every high quality photo you see is fiddled with. You'd be surprised how different GD models look compared to their pictures.

Nah, I have an airbrush.

Bro, get rid of your Christmas tree

nice scorpion, though

Yellow's a bit thick, but throw some Agrax on it before you strip just to see if it helps.

>recasting Knights

What the FUCK. At least try looking in second hand communities and shit first, then go for Chinacast. You're not going to be able to recast an entire Knight.

Just got Averland Sunset primer for my Imperial Fists. After a couple minutes of shaking I started using it, but it's coming out really watery and not sticking to the model. Is there something wrong with my can, or am I doing something wrong?

Hey guys,
I'm finally finishing this guys, doing the blades now.
Do you think it's better like this without painting the edges...

...or like this, with white high lists on the edges and on the central line?

Another angle

How cold is the can / where you are spraying?
Plastic shouldn't really have enough mold release on it to hinder this, but FW resin needs washing.

Resize, rotate and crop, ESPECIALLY if you're posting more than one image. Jesus christ user.

Using firefox on a smartphone, for some reason it rotates automatically the images. But I'll keep in mind next time, ty

It's not forefox it's youe phone that understands the metadata of the picture to set it right while Veeky Forums doesn't. Just crop it and it'll put the picture in the right way.

The raven guard wings are really tacky, and I preferred the DG with the anime blush.

The white highlight look really nice.

I liked the Imperial fist who making you read his sword before he skull fucked you with it. I like how theyre coming out so far user, lookin good.

Usure for the color of the cable, suggestion criticism etc is well accepted

Outstanding work. Why did you decide against giving Lorgar his iconic scribblyface?

31F

Basically finished Bad Juju now just got a couple of areas to neaten up and do the base.
I'll take a better picture once he's actually finished.

So currently I've got a pair of unarmoured Knight Warden legs, a base that can't go any further till I glue him down, and the rest unassembled.

I'm wondering whether to order some magnets and greenstuff and have a shot at magnetizing him, or to just pick a variant and build the rest now. Not used either greenstuff or magnets yet.

Thoughts? Also, I want to paint him up as House Malinax, any idea on how to get the brownish colour on the transfers for the armour plates?

It's too cold and the solvent can't flash off. Read the can.

>Averland Sunset primer
The one from gw?

Because that isn't a primer nor a basecoat.

You gotta apply corax white/chaos black before their coloured cans since these are just colors

Gots ta know: do you have a gallery of your in-progress pics?

I'm pretty bad at picking out colours and I don't have any throwaways to try it out on. Could anybody more knowledgeable let me know if I'm being retarded here?

I'm going for an off-white that goes into a blue-grey in the darker recesses.
Rakarth Flesh Base>Drakenhof Nightshade all over>Pallid Wych flesh>White Scar highlight

...

The Bronze?

Don't think it's metallic, the armour colour here.

Start with Rakarth flesh and Agrax.

Oh, thanks guys!

I hate to derail, but where is this from? Reverse image search doesn't seem to have anything similar.

youtube.com/watch?v=b9Wlh98dcSA&index=17&list=LLjH_durOqsT45S98lOafiag

Started applying first reds and started on his arm, but unfortunately my tremors have gotten so bad today I don't think I can paint anymore for the rest of it

youtube.com/watch?v=wBxQPymRoWg

How do I fix this mold slip on scale armor?

Gently scrape until level.

It's not a slip, it's just flash, you should be able to just trim it down and be fine

t. I've been building those sodding things all week

Thanks! I though she looked a little familiar.

Many thanks, good anons!!!

Something very very tiny and sharp. Like a scalpel.

Nah man, the camera doesn't show it right and my phone camera sucks, it's a slip, you just can't tell from that angle

Greenstuff. Apply a small amount to each lower scale and level it out with the higher one.

I liked the way it looked so I just left it like that. Also I wasn't sure if it would look right and didn't want to ruin the smooth skin.

Apart from the pics I have been posting here, not really. I have quite a lot saved though, as I continually check the progress on picture.

For example, pic related was when I first applied pigments to the base, but decided to remove most of them.

Looks like SpeedoSausage to me

"Photo manipulation" has an undertone of dishonesty and faking about it, suggesting that you change the photo to make shit look like something it isn't.

That's not necessarily true though. A lot of photo manipulation can, and should, be done to make the photo represent the motif better, because your camera probably ain't gonna do all that good a job of it on its own. (And what you're doing there is mostly just stuff you could have done by setting the camera settings and light setup just right from the start as well, just after the shutter clicks instead of before it.)

The photography here isn't to show off how well we can wield a camera, it's to show off the minis. If post-processing helps then it's in no fucking way whatsoever cheating, not using it might be, as your mistakes disappear into the murk.

(Of course, in photography any post processing is generally considered an integral part of the process, so they will tend to include it as well without any thought of cheating. back in the film era it was of course absolutely necessary, and Photoshop has simply slotted itself in as the dark room of the digital era.)

Not quite done with anything on sarge, but baseless superstition has taught me not to spend too much time working on one (primarily white) model in a single stretch or you'll fuck it up.

Thanks to whoever suggested the white breastplate. Looks better, even if it's an extra pain in the ass.

How small we talkin here, like ants skull small or a tad larger?

>unsure of the colour for the cable
>model made out of cables

you might specify? if you mean the servo skull one, generally those corrugated ones are painted black with grey highlights. The plasma coil would look good if its highlighted in light blue, imagine if you heat a coil of electric wire up, it slowly starts to glow on the edges. I'd suggest another thin coat on the cloth and maybe paint some trim gold or drybrush some bronze on it to pick it out.

>baseless superstition
We call it hard learned experience.

If you're willing to throw them into a gallery Imgur or something, I'd greatly appreciate it. I've been hit-and-miss with /wip/ recently, and going to start working on NMM myself and would love just having another piece of reference material.

Got half of my Epic-scale Contemptors painted. 9 legions left to do.

...

Why did you reverse the green and black scheme on the SoH?

That's just trying to justify our nerousis.

Anyone know where can i find nice gothic armor for man-sized a power armour ?

What model is this?

Scalpel skillz but probably easier to do what this guy said

forge world chaos dwarf

Anybody get their stuff lost in the mail?

So, I ordered some minis 12 days ago w/ ~5 day express shipping, and tracking last shows 8 days ago in another state. Good job FedEx, 10$ shipping.

At what point do I file a claim for my miniatures?
I've filed w/ miniature companies before for damaged/missing goods, never had them lost in the mail before.

I've always had my stuff sent USPS - very rarely it got delayed, I'd report it and rather than answer me the package showed up.

So I'd say report it, the very least they;'ll try to track it down and get it to you.

>USPS
They're not even "good", they're just the lesser evil.

Would it make sense fluff-wise to have an eldar army made of units from different craftworlds?

I find a bieltan scheme looks best for guardians and serpents, but saim-han looks best for jetbikes and similarly for other craftworlds and units.

You can fluff it as craftworlds helping one another out in battle, but it will certainly be an unusual army. I find it odd that you prefer different craftworlds for different units though, usually a craftworld is picked from a combination of colour scheme and fluff combined rather than just colour scheme.

How do you guys counter terrible posture when doing mini things? I constantly find myself hunching over with my head planted in my chest and my neck is starting to suffer for it.

>What do you guys think? Is this a line too far, or is anything that makes the picture better something worth pursuing?
I use these to automatically correct the color of the image to as close as possible to the true color.

xritephoto.com/colorchecker-passport-photo

These are excellent, well done.

i found getting a table/hobby lamp really helped. i can get the light right next to my hands so i'm looking forward and not down at my lap. i also take lots of breaks.

that being said, i work on a couch sitting at a coffee table with the lamp clamped to the table.

I have a ghetto lamp setup that's to the right and above of where I work. I have my desk at chest level to brace my arms against it and I STILL hold shit to my chest anyway

lifting

I do

Well that should counteract any posture problems you might be developing.

Honestly the only manipulation you need to do is cropping, resizing and auto white balance.

Who else gets gets kinda sad when they don't get any (you)s to their post?

i use a drafting table and an adjustable height office chair, keeps me pretty upright. also putting whatever you're working on onto a holder stick/wire allows you to bring it closer to your face rather than having to hunch to bring your face closer to it