WIP: Work in Progress General

New.

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>Currently Offline

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

Last thread:

So I've assembled my Knight legs minus the pelvis cap thing. Should I order some magnets and greenstuff and have a shot at magnetizing it, or just pick a variant now? New to using both magnets or greenstuff, but it seems like there's a few tutorials. Would it be really tricky for a newbie or is it plausible I could magnetize the weapon options?

alright, re-post since my post was apparently one of the last in the thread before. Anyway, finished the base set of this Talisman kit. Not the best of miniatures, but I think they came out pretty good.

How should I model goredrinker on my lord?

Asking again: does it make a difference which kind of Knight I buy in the online shop or are they all using the same sprues?

Would like to be able to swap loadouts when I feel like using a different Knight variant without having to buy 4 different ones.

If im not mistaken, the Knights all have the same body, and are sold with the weapons pictured. Then you can buy the seperate weapon options

Update on some wolves, BC, GH and WGs. Sorry about quality, need new sd for camera. Will get decent pics after highlights.

Wrong

There are 2 kits from GW. The Knight Errant/ Paladin one which comes with the Chainsword, Battlecannon and Thermal Cannon and then there is the Knight Warden/ Crusader/ Gallant kit that comes with an extra sprue for the top mounted weapons, the Thunderstrike Gauntlet and the Avenger Gatling Cannon.

There are literally dozens of guides on how to magnetize Imperial Knights out there. If not hundreds. And since they are fuckhuge, it's also pretty easy.

For clarity: the Warden kit has all the weapons options from the other one as well.

>Asking again: does it make a difference which kind of Knight I buy in the online shop or are they all using the same sprues?
>Would like to be able to swap loadouts when I feel like using a different Knight variant without having to buy 4 different ones.

You're talking about GW Knights, not Forgeworld ones, right? Like says, all the GW Knights use the same body. There are three sprues (pictured) common to all Knights that form feet and legs, arms and torso, and the head.

If you buy a Paladin or Errant, you will get exactly the same thing: these three sprues, and nothing more. This is because all the weapons variants for those two models (battlecannon for Paladin, meltacannon for Errant) are all on those sprues, along with the parts for the shoulders and upper arms.

If you want a Warden, Gallant, or Crusader, you'll need that magical fourth sprue. If you bought the "Renegade" game, they only gave you one two split between the two Knights, but if you buy a Warden kit, you get the entire sprue (not pictured in its entirety here, so maybe that wasn't the *best* picture I could choose). This fourth sprue has the Thunderstrike Gauntlet, Avenger Cannon, torso-mounted meltagun, all three carapace-mounted weapons, some additional faceplates, and Adeptus Mechanicus insignia. However, the arm weapons on this sprue are the lower arms only - you still need the pieces from the original Knight kit to mount them to the body.

So basically the Errant-style kits all contain the core legs, torso, heads and "small" weapons and the Crusader-style kit includes all those same parts, including Chainsword and other weapons but costs an extra 14€ for the carapace weapons, bigger firearms and some extra decorations?

I.e. I should just buy that little bit extra to get all options?

Did you basecoat with The Fang? Looks more like Sotek Green/Turqoise.

Yes. But if I were you I'd have a look around ebay and resellers, wargaming sites and the like for the 'Renegade' box that contains 2 basic Knights, the extra sprue and some terrain for way less.

>i.e. I should just buy that little bit extra to get all options?

Hell yes.

You're getting an entire sprue for that extra money. Even with minimal magnet work, you'd easily be able to switch between the three carapace weapons (or have none at all, if you don't feel like paying the extra points).

Those are some nice Thousand Sons.

when will this meme die?

Pic related is straight out of the codex, SW were always sky blue before they went grey being 'sky warriors' and all.

My 2nd ED codex and the picture of 'Captain Ragnar's Space Wolves' on the back cover says otherwise. Anyway, keep up the good work with your Sons.

found this lil guy in an old british board game and decided to try seeing what paint could do for him...

Painted up over this weekend, just need to figure out a scenic base for him! Suggestions?

a field of wilting and rotting flowers

A dark stone or cracked earth, with some sort if rot or something spreading from his feet outwards

something snowy

he looks cold

Quite like all of those ideas actually, thanks!

jesus christ how many of these fucking lords gets posted daily? Must be GWs best selling sculpt.

It's only £9 so it's like the cheapest GW model to try out a nurgle scheme on.

first time painting vehicle

please send help

That's pretty cool, user. It's surprisingly detailed.

>send-help-2.png
Show send-help-1.png

Why am I unable to get a good brush consistency? My paints are always too watery or too thick, and if the right consistency is acquired, they run out of paint in an instant. It's making highlighting a real bitch since I can't manage to present consistent linework...

Another Death guard done.

Looks smooth on the large flat areas, so I'd say you're doing well. What do you need help with?

I want that purple jester! Nice job though those are pretty awesome.

solid work, user!

Keep it up user, you're doing great, you are great!

Great job, and underrated post. Unfortunately, if its not GW, it wont get any critique on Veeky Forums most of the time.

>TFW I paint them grey because the new blue look is fucking stupid
Enjoy your thousand sons user.

Thanks! Strangely enough the priest I think, became the best painted one, and on a close second the Jester... Both models are by far on the lower end of what people tends to "want to play" (the priest especially, he really is on a suicide run if a player gets him as his first character in a random draft!).

Forgot face

Reposting my finished start collecting box.
Once again thanks for the help guys

You can't tell very well but here is the template Im going to make a stamp out of and put these things on shields to make it look like faces are coming out of them

Can anyone give me tips for getting the right amount of water into my wet palette?

I find that paints are soaking through the baking paper. Is this too much water, too little, or the wrong type of paper? Washes soak through immediately

First of, never paint white with white. Second, if you wash, be sure to go back with the main color and re-apply the base color yet again, before starting with your highlights. And third, I never got the idea GW had when applying a highlight to the shoulderpad, that light green line rests where a shadow would be more appropriate, but as this is GW´s favourite technique of doing it, I wont blame you for doing it. Also, drill the barrel, and be more gentle with your overall edge highlight, you picked the right color for the bolter (really dark grey), but alas, its on there way to think "framing" the object.

A lot of harsh criticism, but hopefully you will thank me in time.

it's the 5mb version of the same picture

I just started painting my (chaos marauder conversion) Norse Blood Bowl team, these are the positionals. Since this is my first time painting, any tips/suggestions? Does a thing as "thinning my paints too much" exist or am I on the right track?

Thats pretty cool. Can I get a picture with a piece of paper as background?

The only consequence to thinning your paints too much is that it will take forever to actually cover the model. In that sense there it's a "more than necessary" thing. From the looks of it you need to thin more. Aim for about 2 layers for the basecoat, with it being OK if it's a little bit transparent, as long as you are going to go over the areas later with layers.

looks great user!

Heres what I'm talkin about specifically

This is the first layer and they are rather transparent (in some places at least) the picture looks like shit. Do you suggest another layer like this, wash and then another lighter layer? E.g. screaming skull over ushabti bone?

Also, the linemen.

If this is your first time painting, then there are two things you need to know.

1. Your first 10 or so models will look like absolute shit while you get your eye in, learn brush control and paint consistency etc. You might want to buy some cheapo minis to practice on.

2. Models tend to look shit until they're very close to being finished. Don't be downhearted if they look terrible at the basecoating stage, after washes and highlights tie them together they'll look much better.

I like the conversions.

Doesn't look like bad coverage at all for one layer of paint. If it's not covered then another thin layer will do it. Far better too thin than too thick.

wrong paper.

Great, thanks for the advice anons!

youve inspired me to start that Dark Eldar army I've been mulling, those look dope man.

Is there a website that lets you experiment different color schemes on popular minis?

>When your friend looks like a badass and you dont

What game? Looks pretty detailed for an old model. Personally don't like his mug but I'm pretty sure that's more on the model than your painting.

That is cool man, real nice

Hopefully the end result looks good ahah, thanks man

>put together first Kastelan Robot
>only slightly taller than my Tech-Priest

I don't know what I was expecting but I'm still disappointed.

What's the best way to magnetize those guys? Was thinking about putting the magnets in the cavity inside their hands and cut off the small disk that would normally be glued into there, then drill a hole into the arm to insert the magnet.

Sound plan or am I going to run into some problems?

Anyone ever order from V & V miniatures before?
I was thinking of getting their 28mm Jarl (pic related) for a D&D game. I'm having a real hard time finding models like it elsewhere.

Would it be weird to use this head for a dark eldar?
I know it's not edgy, but it's elvish and it fits on the model.
Need opinons basically

Reaper don't have anything for you?

Hair looks almost too tame for DEldar, but it's probably alright to go with.

That doesn't look too out of place with many Gripping Beast figures. Maybe Redbox minis as well.

This guys advice is solid, i think point 2 is particularly important to new painters. Most of my models look like shit right up until i start adding in the highlights and shading. So they look garbage for the first 90% of time invested which i think is what puts people off or makes them think they are doing something wrong.

Finished the base for my Pyramid Head helmet for my Silver Tower Slaughterpriest. Was going to add some putty to smooth up the edges between the glued plasticard, but coincidentally my plastic putty, plumber's putty, and liquid green stuff have all disappeared and regular green stuff is too hard for me to work with when it comes to detail like that. Gonna have to wait til after work tomorrow to get some more.

Anyway, lots more work to do on the helmet after that.

Should I keep the big ax, or should I use some more plasticard to make it look like he's holding a giant knife kinda like the great machete from Dark Souls?

dude you either go full pyramid head or you feel his shaft in your cooter.

What's the red stuff you use for filling gaps in the plasticard? I've seen Dave Taylor use the same stuff but I don't know what it is.

First real kitbash type thing with this guy, even though it's all from the same kit. I took the head off the force staff and put it on the axe hilt for a funky power mace thingy. I think Black Legion would look the best on this model, what does /WIP/ think?

That pyramid is outrageously large.

Couldn't even tell it was kitbashed without reading your post. It looks official for the most part.
Whether that's good or bad is up to you.

Black Legion would look alright but it more or less comes down to what warband or legion you wanna do. Remember, you're the one who has to look at them every day. Are you just doing regular CSM or are you using any of the supplements?

>Putting it all together before painting

I don't know how people can do this without getting frustrated or unless the models arms are not covering any parts of them. Jesus

>First real kitbash type thing with this guy, even though it's all from the same kit.

So not a kitbash at all then.

That guy came with the Assassinorum boxed game and I'm not going to build a full chaos army, but I'd definitely use him in a Kill-team

I don't really know what else to call it.

Meh it's just a polite nod, I'm not looking to go full conversion. But from your post I take it you are in favor of the great machete?

It's actually brown sharpie I used to cut it out. I'm super new at using plasticard so I just made the outline then scored the card with my hobby knife. The gaps have yet to be filled due to missing materials.

Yep. Pic related, it's supposed to be pretty big. I may have overdone it a little but I think it'll work.

Conversion? Bitz bash?

Oh, okay then. I guess it's whatever you wanna do then. Black Legion looks pretty badass as far as CSM schemes go.

I always thought conversions were making one unit serve as another, but bitz bash makes sense.
Yeah it'd be a shame not to use such a cool model but I don't want to buy an entire second army.

>Three hands

working on making my first lit base, does /tg support webms? I was hoping to post a video of it when it's done.

It won't play sound if there is any.

You ok user?

Yeah I bought from them, the models are surprisingly detailed for the size of the model. You definitely get your moneys worth, but assembly can be a bit of a pain because how you put the minis together, and expect a bend on the sword.

>expect a bend on the sword.
There models are resin right? Isn't that easily fixable with warm water?

>Kitbashing means "using the spure that came with it"

user...

If I rip that helmet off, will he die?

We've already established that I was wrong lmao. What do you think of the model?

Just finished these movable covers. The idea is to be place them during terrain-setup on the board to fortify areas with weak terrain or areas prone to flanking. Right now I'm working on the stuff In the background that's gonna be Czech hedgehogs with barbed wire

Looking good man. Maybe some cool skull freehand? Just kidding definitely tabletop ready, I'd like to play against this painted fellas.

It would be extremely painful

Depends on how your dark eldar behave I suppose, if you fluff them as not all being batshit lunatics then the head would work great.

Definitely something related to cold water. He looks like he fell through the ice and came back through as a changed man.
Would love to see you blacken his fingers and some other protruding parts of his body like frostbite.

What is your recipe for the armour and verdigris user? It looks amazing.

Bought my first ever set of orruk minis and I'm planning on painting them throughout the week,any tips to not make them look like shit?

Have you ever done anything related to minis before?

Nope, mini virgin

thin ur paints
prime them white if you want some vibrant colours
be aware of how highlighting and layering is different between skin, metals, and fabrics