WIP: Work in Progress General

Paint things. Also, construct things as well.

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>Currently Offline

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Freaking, gosh darned magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

Last thread:

pls r8, no h8

Gr8 m8 8/8

lol

Welcome to town, now get on the pyre

really nice. one question though, how can you paint the faces and especially eyes so well, but then fuck up the edge highlight on the shoulder?

Picking up the brush for the first time in about... 6 months. Not feeling great about how rusty I've gotten, but here's a test model for my new Sisters force. Going with the Order of the Martyred Lady.

thank you. i have a hard time with edge highlighting, i still haven't got it down after all these years

Finished my DnD thief. Not crazy with how he looks close up, but I like how he looks at tabletop distance.

Test mini for my loudboys. Is the scheme too simple for Slaanesh?

...

gr8 m8. 8/8

You win at tengu/kenku rogue playing. I like the little guy.

Anyone got experience with custom HeroForge minis? How detailed are they?

I've been thinking about making Cyriss-oriented terrain for a while, but I'm having a hard time figuring out things beyond "look at these neat battery-pillars! cool!"

the high-detail minis hold their detail really well, but they ARE super breakable. I haven't seen the new blue type stuff, but it looks promising from what they're saying about it on their own site.

Is the high detail the new grey plastic ones, or you talking about the white ones?

the opaque white ones that I seen apparently aren't available anymore, they have since been replaced by the new, grey-blue high-detail ones.

I have three models from Hero Forge. One in High Detail, two in Grey Plastic.

The Grey Plastic is upsurdly sturdy, and it holds paint well.. When properly painted you can't even tell it's 3d printed, although I would say to go easy on washes just to be cautious. Even if you carefully file down all of the obvious bits, washes have a habit of creating strange shadows on their models.

The "High Detail" models are upsurdly fragile. I had comissioned a half-elf with the robot legs(had a character that walked around on prosthetics). The inside-knee joint was 1/4 of a mm thick, and snapped off with the gentlest of handling. Like I'm not even kidding when I say that it was MY BRUSH that snapped the fucking legs off. The fact that it even came to my house fully intact in the first place is the strongest evidence in the entire universe for god's existence.

Awesome, thanks. My group has been playing for 5 years and want to finally start using minis and wanted to get ones that resemble their character as closely as possible.

It's certainly garish enough.

Just tossed togeather his familiar for when I get Arcane Trickster

For Cryx I generally think crypts mage spires, graveyards, anything a necromancer would have.
sure green battery pillars are all good and well but outside of that think of where they would make a home. Secluded woods to experiment? Infectious cysts built onto walls?

Cyriss, not Cryx.

Ordered like 250 bases from Chinaman on Aliexpress 2 weeks ago, order still processing, what do? is it supposed to take this long?

Where'd you get the bird head?

It can take months or more. Just wait.

just this mini with the staff replaced with a sword.

I dunno, huge gear shards?

Oops my bad. For cyriss I think industrial much like dewmer from skyrim. Factory settings, with gear platforms, even clockwork in nature. Floating/ anti grav stones, things of that nature

Lads are almost done. Only transfers, base and varnishing to do.

First time doing 15mm apart from some (imo) terribly-done Romans a few years ago.
I'm aware the lighting is terrible.

Is there any reason to buy Citadel paints over Vallejo except for the meme names?

1. If you need a specific color only Citadel makes.
2. If you like the pots, for things like washes.
3. For Citadel's unique paints that nobody else offers, such as Blood for the Blood God, Ryza Rust, etc.

I recently put all my Citadel paints into dropper bottles, and if you are buying a Citadel paint that you could have bought a similar color from from Vallejo, you are not getting a good deal. The pot sucks, it costs more money, and they give you way less paint than Vallejo. Citadel pot is 12ml and is never 100% full. Vallejo is 17 ml, costs less money, and is always filled to the top.

Only buy Citadel if you NEED their color or it's a special type of paint like the technical lines.

I used to buy vallejo paints cos they're cheaper and have dropper bottles. Now I'm buying citadels: better coverage, never separates, no issuses of any kind (and I had terrible time with several colours from VMC)

I hope I don't offend you, but you seem like a beginner and you've chosen some very hard colors to do. Silver and gold take a lot of shading to look right.

The white flames are a cool idea, but difficult to execute. Also you need to think your paints a lot.

Amazing. I'd be proud to stomp those into the dust.

guys... resize your fucking pictures before posting

Why? I don't mean to be rude, but I've never understood this request. I personally have no issue viewing images; is it a device thing?

Mighty fine work. Any tips for getting those stripes nice and crisp? My buddy is struggling with his - he's a new painter.

He means file size not resolution.

Not the same user, but it's a combination of

>Some people watch these threads on their phones
>Some people have crappy internet
>Sometimes Veeky Forums servers mess up and even moderatly sized photos takes ages to load
>There's just no need for them to be that big, and it only takes 3 minutes to compress them
>makes it easier for us anons whom save pictures from these threads, for inspiration and such

I prefer Vallejo for most colors, especially their military colors. For the more vibrant colors I sometimes use P3 paints, they seem to work pretty decently.

>and it only takes 3 minutes to compress them

Not even. Literally less than 5 seconds unless you're so bad at the computer you don't even know how to use CTRL shortcuts.

>right click
>open in paint
>CTRL + W
>resize
>save as jpg

Ok cool. Good to know.

...

Hi, wip - I painted up a bunker today and did a bit of work on the plastic contemptor. Some metal highlights and muzzle burn tomorrow I think. I need to get into weathering but I'm super scared.

heheheh, lol

19 tactical, 10 assault marines, 6 devastators and a couple of random sergeants done (apart from the bases, turns out i used the last of my astrogranite and didn't replace it...)

Close-up of some of the tacticals. Still gotta decide if I can be bothered doing the chapter decals

Babby's first airbrush.. besides needing to fix the stripe on the left any suggestions?

Chinese New Year, bro, takes a while atm.

>Citadel pot is 12ml and is never 100% full. Vallejo is 17 ml, costs less money, and is always filled to the top.

You do know that the declaration of the volume refers to the actual volume of the paint, not the size of the pot?

highlights

>want to assemble and paint army
>don't have all the weapons

why is this hobby game such suffering?

They really need a wash on the yellow.

I used medium layer brush for this. 2 thin coats of averland sunset. I've painted and shaded blue, then applied yellow. Tricky part are headresses with very small stripes. But its easy if you let yourself spill on gold parts and just clean up after you're done

I mounted my first batch of firewarriors before priming but now I want to paint the bases. Should I just pry their feet off with a knife and paint the base separately?

Doesn't matter what it is, Citadel gives you less than 12 ml. I've poured unopened Citadel pots into 15 ml droppers and come up less than 75% full.

GW's price for 12 is still much higher than everyone else's price for 17. Especially Army Painter, who is even cheaper than Vallejo.

Very little on the brush, and hold it so the middle of the brush sweeps across the very edge. Looks like you're using the tip to highlight?

I just imagine rotating gear platforms that rotate 45 degrees every turn to fuck with your positioning. Might be fun to implement

What kind of characters? People here might be able to help point out standard minis that'll probably be a decent amount cheaper.

How's Army Painter?

...

Wait, that's finished? The yellow looks quite flat and jarring next to all that black, I would've done a heavy wash on that. Otherwise they look pretty interesting, nicely done.

yeahhhh, no. If they'd do that, there would be a big lawsuit against them.

Ye I know, I use Vallejo for most of my stuff, I just didnt like the Army Painter colors when I tried them. Although my FLGS just got the big AP display, I might give them another shot.

Sorry to be that guy, but I need to inform you that the word you are looking for is "absurd"

It's because some of the paint sticks to the sides of the pot, and you can never get 100% of a liquid out of a container. That guy thinks it means that GW underfill their pots, despite it being flagrantly illegal.

Would dry brushing tyranids be okay?, I was looking over my tyranid warrior I was painting and all his details really stick out over the shaded parts.

What's that material you're using (the pinkish stuff)?

Yes, particularly the exoskeleton. For best results layer the dry brushing up the same way that you would paint normal layers, starting with a darker highlight and progressing to both lighter tones and lighter dry brushing.

Where should I focus the lighter tones too?

had this handy, might help

The edges

generally I'd say its not a good idea for chitin. You want to get a striking contrast (i.e violet on dark purple, lime green on dark green) and use a fine brush and draw thin lines starting at halfway down each plate and reaching the edge of the plate. Remember it's a living creature so it'll look like a nail with ridges catching the light. The arms and other parts are as simple as two thin coats of any colour and an appropriate wash maybe highlight at intersections.

build the wall

Thanks mate, thought now is a better time then any, My tyranid colour scheme is that of the OG Genestealers, should it just be fine to highlight the chitin the same as the broodlord, and also What colours do I make the weapons/hooves etc, I was thinking skavenblight dinge, with a highlight of stormvermin fur but that might be too plain compared to the purple and blue.

Yeah the broodlord shoudl be fine, notice the striations of lighter blue at the edge of the back plates. The claws are a tricky one, personally I always like a bright red cos it's easy to paint and contrasts really well.

>20 Skitarii, 3 Kataphrons, 2 Kastelans, a Sydonian, a Tech-Priest, Cawl, Celestine's Geminae, a Dunecrawler and 5 Sicarians to finish
>about 20+ Black Templars to touch up on
>can't work on things properly because of exams

This is pure suffering.

At least I didn't pick up a Knight yet. Not sure I would be able to take any more cockteasing.

>want to run 1 10-man Skitarii unit and several 5-man units
>need to buy 3 boxes to get enough weapons for the 10-man squad

I know that feeling too well.

...

A male half-elf bard, a female gnome rogue, a female human paladin and a male human warlock.

>A male half-elf bard, a female human paladin and a male human warlock
Well those will be easy as shit, just look online for literally any DnD minis. You don't need expensive custom made shit for those.

>a female gnome rogue
Just have a look around ,but that might be a bit trickier.

Try the reaper catalog.
They have a huge range of minis that work for classic rpg games and they are tagged accordingly.
Just copy past those descriptions into the search bar on their page and you should find a good amount of usable stuff.

Still a wip but almost done, just need the back of his cloak and some minor touch ups.

Man harlequins are cool.

>harlequins are cool
They are. Too bad their TT strength can't hold up that standard all too well.

Nice paintjob.

Thanks! I was really afraid the gemstone paint would look weird, it's my first time using it. Went better than expected!

Man that's nice. Motley on the leg is a titch uneven but overall awesome. highlighting dark colors is hard and you've made all of them look good

Thanks! Checks over a curved surface is a new challenge for me, probably would have had a better time if I assembled in stages.

Minwax wash guy from the last thread. They're still tacky, after a day and a half. How long does this stuff take to cure?

Didn't see the conversation last thread, so I don't know the background, but tacky dip is usually down to using too much/not being gung-ho enough about shaking/spinning off the excess after application. You almost need one of those rotating brush cleaner things house painters use in buckets. Or I have seen some people use a DIY cardboard tube and attach the mini to a milk frother or dremel with binder clips

Almost done with a Tzaangor shaman (Sans disc) Comments, criticism or insults welcome!

looks pretty good, the pictures make getting a sense of the details pretty difficult though

Yeah sadly it's a bit of a hassle getting the background steady with one hand holding the model and the other holding the camera. I will try to get some better pictures when his surfboard is done.

Just moved into my new house after a month of staying with a friend, got the silver tower set to cracking into on a week off, been a while since I used my airbrush but really happy how the pink horror is coming out

And the Knight questor too

Pink foamboard, home depo sells it in 2x2 sheets at various thickness. It's fairly cheap and a lot of terrain builders use it.

That's actually a pretty sweet idea mate. Now I want to build a clockwork board

>That's actually a pretty sweet idea mate. Now I want to build a clockwork board
Pretty sure I've seen a board like that before.
Had lights under playing surface and all.
Can't remember the name of the studio that made it though. Was for a convention I think.

Don't forgive me what for what I've done. Forgive me for what I'll do.
(I'm gonna fuck it up)

>he bought Smaug