WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Good songs are forever evergreen.
youtube.com/watch?v=HhwXxjiqDEU

>Previous threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/A0YU-WqvvbY
youtube.com/watch?v=Hgq4w4dqKsU
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_tincture
twitter.com/AnonBabble

DRANK MY PAINT WATER

FUCK

then either nut up and go about your business or go and put two fingers down your throat and vomit it out.

If you've painted something with metal colouring - like GWs Leadbelcher, for example - then I recommend the vomit.

...

face shields and gems on the pauldrons

If you drank a whole cup, you're a ridiculous person for not noticing. Either way, It's just acrylic, you'll be fine, don't try to puke, you've probably already begun to metabolize It and would just be throwing up for no reason. Don't eat your sprues, though.


Dont.

>Don't eat your sprues, though.
>Dont.

I feel like there must be a story behind this.

Repost from the bottom of the last bread.

Looking for advice on my color scheme for my chapter master namely the details like the tassles and gems and how to do the banner. One user mentioned tincture and i didnt really follow after looking it up.

Head laurel will be gold as well

...

Just got one of the auctions off of ebay for someone's old squad of marines, and man, they're rough as fuck. They definitely feel like they're either plastic or resin, but the seller wasn't sure which they were. What's the best way to not only strip the paint off of them, but also weaken/dissolve the superglue on the joints so I can start as fresh as possible without also dissolving the minis? Simple Green, even the concentrated stuff, takes the paint off just fine, but doesn't really do much to the superglue.

>They definitely feel like they're either plastic or resin, but the seller wasn't sure which they were.

Uh, pictures?

>Simple Green, even the concentrated stuff, takes the paint off just fine, but doesn't really do much to the superglue.

It won't. That's one one of the selling points of superglue. Are you sure that's what it is, though? If the previous owner used plastic cement, you're not going to get that bond to break short of cutting or snapping it.

>seller wasn't sure

So... recasts?

Thought you guys would like this tutorial, since many people are trying to paint Carcharodons.

Do note the little typo of the guy on the title, he forgot an R.

youtu.be/A0YU-WqvvbY

>seller wasn't sure
>So... recasts?

Not necessarily. That's why I asked for pictures. It's going to be hard to show us Space Marines that somebody here won't recognize as being part of one particular production run or another. GW's Techmarine and servitor entourage, for example, was only ever made in metal and resin, so you know it can't be plastic. That kind of information might help decide what chemicals *not* to use!

From afar it looks a bit of a mess due to the palette you've chosen, however closer up it looks really nice, good job! I would say that it could do with some weathering on the gold, might take some of the gaudyness away from it.

Pic attached.

>If the previous owner used plastic cement
God, I certainly hope not. That's why I want to find something that will dissolve superglue, to see if it is cement or not.

They're pretty basic spess mehreens, so I doubt it. I did get them super cheap, though, like under $5 all said and done, so if they are I wouldn't be too upset over it.

No Johnny in this lot (eBay item 272562638819), but I see lots of OOP stuff. including chaplains, hard-to-find Rhino crew, officers, special weapons like plasma guns and shuriken catapults... I'd probably bid on it myself if it wasn't mostly duplicates of things I already have.

So what do you guys think so far of this basing test run?

Also how to do bricks?

Sorry for phoneposting

>Pic attached.

Excellent. From left to right, the models are:

1). Third Edition Blood Angels Death Company. Metal body and shoulder pauldrons with plastic arms, base, and backpack.
2). Plastic Second Edition boxed set Space Marine with metal Third Edition plasma gun glued on the front.
3). Second Edition Blood Angels Tactical Squad Sergeant. Body and right arm are metal (single-piece casting). Base, left arm, and backpack are plastic.
4). Third Edition Space Marine squadboy with rokkit chukka. Everything on this model is plastic.
5). Third Edition Blood Angels Death Company. Body and right shoulder pauldron are metal. Everything else is plastic.

If you're really interested in saving everything, perhaps you should consider non-acetone nail polish remover. I'd probably melt everything off with acetone or Goof-Off, throw away anything that wasn't metal, and restock from my bitz box, but not everybody has that many Space Marine bitz.

What is the red marine plotting ?

Different guy, I use alcohol 96º, the one for wounds. I heat it in the microwave for 30 secs, and put the piece in side after that. Put a cap and wait till it gets cold. Use a teethbrush and done, the miniature suffers not.

Sometimes even removes the glue and leaves the piece in its original state.

Honestly it looks a mess. I have no idea what you're trying to achieve.

What look are you after and I'll assist as best I can user.

>What is the red marine plotting ?

Why, death to the heretics, of course!

His raised "eyebrow" gets me everytime

I'm making an unit filler showing a skeleton poping out of its grave to attack a guy walking next to him, and I don't know how to paint it

>"normal" skeleton, with rusty armor and sword, bone-colored bones and covered with dirt
>ghost skeleton, everything blue/white
>ghost skeleton, green/white
>ghost skeleton with rusty armor and sword

Is there anyway to recolour transfer sheets?

Specifically the Metalica skitarii sheet was discontinued and since the default Mars transfers are all white and not red they would not show up on the robes.

I'm assuming you're not talking about painting over them; you're screwed. Print your own, or have someome else print them for you.

How do I take pictures of fucking tiny red models?

I'm trying to make it look some paved ways broke up from the magic underneath it

Maybe one can see with some more and other color what I'm getting at. But I think I have tones the blue down too much now

i think this is cool, just dry brush the stones to look more like stones. also some moss or sprigs of grass coming through the stones couldn't hurt.

Is there a particular reason you are so interested in the ghost skeleton thing?
Just wondering, cause it seems slightly unusual.
If that fits the rest of your army go with that, but then I'd assume you already knew how to paint them if your army consisted of ghosts.

In any case you cannot go wrong is the classic skeleton look. It always looks good. So that's the save bet, unless something else like army theme figures into the equation.

Question about casting. I need to cast up a single, chariot sized bases. I have the mold finished, I just need to actually cast the base. What material would be best for making a single base? I don't want to buy a giant tub of resin which would go to waste.

Do you feel the warp overtaking you?

Might as well ask here just in case.

Does anyone know if it is feasible to carve/chisel beech wood plinths?

I am working on rowboat so I can finish him before the superior plastic version comes out.
I am however totally flunking on the face. I have already redone it 3 times and it keeps being shit.
I don't want it to become a super thic layer on his face, anyone have any tips on how to practice without ruining it?

>What material would be best for making a single base? I don't want to buy a giant tub of resin which would go to waste.

I was going to suggest Alumilite High Strength 3. Even though it's only about $23US, that's way more than you need for a single base. You probably also don't want to invest in a pewter-melting setup.

I've heard ladz around here using a mixture of kneadatite ("green stuff") and milliput.

>I was going to suggest Alumilite High Strength 3.

Duh. That's for making the mold. AlumiRes is what you put *in* the mold.

user...

>I am however totally flunking on the face.

Yeah... just the face.

even when you just are baiting with a picture your drew from another forum

it just aches my heart that people can invest that much money into a lump of plastic and cant even make it look half good

You are a fucking genius.

Is it okay to use this thread to help identify minis then lads? Came into a few I could use a hand with.

>it just aches my heart that people can invest that much money into a lump of plastic and cant even make it look half good

Yeah it's not hard to paint a Primarch up to a tabletop standard - just use the basic marine techniques. In fact it's even easier because they're big models.

>You are a fucking genius.

Thanks. I imagine some uvva ladz around here have words for me that aren't so kind... but then I remember where we are.

>Is it okay to use this thread to help identify minis then lads? Came into a few I could use a hand with.

That would probably be OK. As long as you're asking about Space Marines sculpted by Citadel Miniatures in the last 30 years, I will likely know the answer or could find it in short order.

I might also suggest Bartertown. There's are some forums there ("Grimdark Futuristic" and "The Olde World" are the two for GW 40K and Fantasy specifically, but there are others) where guys talk about this kind of stuff. If you're going *waaay* back, there's also the Oldhammer forums across the pond. They deal a lot in Citadel stuff from before the Dark Age of Technology.

>pomf
>what are we going to do on the bed senpai?

>the OG Johnnyanon will often post links to any he sees here so just stick around and you may have a chance at one yourself. Often times the auctions are UK only though so that sucks, but hey, it's something at least.

It's UK, and damn it's pricey, but it's a Johnny.

youtube.com/watch?v=Hgq4w4dqKsU

is it safe to use the blue stuff method to recast finecast resin?

Maybe some spots of higher contrasting colors, so it doesn't look too much like oil.

I got one from him the other day for £25 and now im hoping its not a recast.

can I get some advice on painting concrete? Imagining paint grey, wash black, drybrush more grey? am I overthinking this?

Working on Mechanicus-flavored Inquisitorial Warband. Right now I'm planning on using Ruststalkers with a head swap as Death Cult Assassins. Any suggestions for what to use for Crusaders?

Secutarii Hoplites, perhaps with Infiltrator Power Swords? They look the part. Head swap, obviously.

>Any suggestions for what to use for Crusaders?

Can you get Fanatic Adeptus Arbites supression shields? That seems like it'd be perfect.

my standard bearer for Vermin Swarm army. What do you think?

shit! I didnt realise it was this big

>Any suggestions for what to use for Crusaders?
You could look into the urban war range. Junkers have the eagle motif and you won't see an inch of skin on them.

How do the eyes look now? Too big, right?

anime eyes.

>How do the eyes look now? Too big, right?

Considering how fantastic the rest of that model looks, yes.

If the surface doesn't already have a gritty, pitted texture, washes aren't going to do all that much. Maybe just paint black and drybrush grey to make the surface look grittier than it is.

Kawaii uguu

lol okay no problem, I did that correction in like 10 minutes. I guess I'm going to reduce the size now, that'll take a while. I'll come back later.

She looks surprised/anime eyes.

she needs eyelids

add white scratches

user-chan~

Well this probably wouldn't work for you, but this is how I've been doing the crusaders I'm working on for a battle conclave.

Someone's geting sacked for not being there when Duncan came.

how did you make the base looks sick

one man stores have awkward opening times, or he could have been out to lunch

Yeah I thought the same. Mine has different hours on almost everyday. Sometimes he'll open at 10, close a 12.30, re open at 13.30, and other times he'll straight up skip the morning and open at 12.30.

No, he is right. I play Carcharodons and I can confirm that they are cacha on the table.

>first picture not actually taken on a bed

I mean they are huge, but I can tell they are actually fucking eyes, as compared to the other one.

gracias gentlemen

Currently working on Goreshade for a friend. It has been a long time since I last painted, I just want to get comfortable to paint again when my KDM arrives.

Planning on buying 2 german half track minis, and converting them to ork trukks, which scale would work best for orks? Ive looked into this quite a bit, but different sites state different dimensions for the same models, and nothing just adds up. Anyone else here done this before? Debating between 1/35 and 1/48, I would got a hobby store, if we had one. Pic related.

1/35th, 1/48th feels mega small in comparison

thanks man, im lucky theyre dirt cheap.

it really varies from brand to brand (usually corresponds to quality) and where you live, 1/35th stuff can be about as pricey as gw

Is there anything more dreary to paint than drop pods? I don't think so.

yea, itll cost me 24 euros for 2 half tracks from a retailer, quality is Tamiya, so i dont suppose its gonna be crap.

batch painting infantry squads

I've had good experiences with the small amount of Tamiya I've bought but keep in mind that anything meant to directly interact with human hands is going to be the main area where the size doesn't line up to gw. So like tools, handles, stuff like that will look severely small compared to IG hands so about twice as small looking next to ork hands.

I could get marginally more realistic riot shields. I imagine sticking with a Ruststalker base would be a bad idea for the purposes of distinguishing?

Enclosed Knightly armor of your choice (AoS or 40k ranges, though 3rd party is fine), torso and legs. I recommend Skitarii but a good deal of Empire or Bretonnian bits can work as well.

Skitarii Vanguard heads or knightly armored heads of your choice ((AoS or 40k ranges, though 3rd party is fine). Again, Bretonnian or Empire knight heads can work as well, depending on how pompous you want your Crusaders to look.

Deathwatch stormshields can work very well and already come with an Inquisition mark on them, as can the more kite shield like stormshields, or Horus Heresy boarding shields. Fantasy might have a few tower shields you can use as well, but I have looked around and haven't seen many available.

There's a diorama contest at my warhammer store, so I decided i'll be entrering thos fuckers which are basically screaming WFB lives !

What do you guys think ?

Assembling a Fire Raptor is pretty damn terrible I heard.

Maybe they meant rule of tincture?

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_tincture

Take vanguard alpha heads for the helmet and cog horse hair plume. Put onto scions torsos, cause their cuirrass are great. Use the scions arms and bash shields onto one and power swords onto the other. Vanguard legs are not good since they're designed to go under the cloaks. Marine legs could be decent. Alternatively look at AOS.

Finally finished my last Crisis Suit.

I mean I got three more coming literally today but for the next hour or so my last suit.

that pose reminds me of titanic

>SUPERMAN
>*BOOM*

>BEHOLD MY PELVIS GUE'LA!

I tried to pose another suit behind him but it just didn't work out

Night Lords user here

I'm more or less satisfied with how these turned out, but I want to start making some progress. What's the best way to do this? I have a lot to do, yet, and part of the problem is what weapons to give them. Another problem is what to use for where, which would affect what weapons are used.

Should I do them in squads? Should I just assemble and paint all the bodies with no arms?

I feel like he's going in for a chest bump with his bro. Model a different type of suit the same way and then face them towards each other. It's for the greater good.

Get an equally tiny camera

What the fuck is mayael the anima doing there