WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

stick a pin or two in the feet and then stick to a cork? two hold points will help with it turning/moving.

hair dryer.

I consider this, but it won't work for the bulk of them because many only have one foot on the ground.

I am thinking of just using clamp sticks.

The marine on the right is primed with the exact spray paint you've posted. It's a surprisingly quality product for the $4 it costs. Very matte with very good coverage.

The marine on the left is primed with Vallejo Surface Primer. It was painted on and he ended up quite shiny. It also is the only primer I've used that comes off if you stick it in Simple Green and/or Super Clean for a while and then scrub it. Take that as what you will. On the plus side, I've heard this stuff works MUCH better out of an airbrush. It also has a very strong citrus-y scent, which is nice.

>Will this in red work for dark eldar?
They make it in red? I didn't know that. I play BA so that might be quite useful.

something to consider when using not grey/black/white primer is color matching. that's probably the principle advantage to using citadel or army painter spray cans.

that said i use rustoleum spray primer and liquitex paint-on-primer.

Got this limited edition guy from old DV set. Still on sprue. No idea what to do with him though. Could sell for an OK price, but seems to only go for like 40 usd, way too low to be bothered to fuck around with international shipping and shit.

If I were to use him myself, I'd convert him to a Dark Apostle. But I'd just end up only really keeping the body as it is, I'd have to carve away at the shoulder, cape, change up the weapons, etc etc. Anyone got any ideas?

Weird, my vallejo surface primer usually comes out much more matte than that.

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Woops quoted wrong guy.

Prolly a dumb question.

Does cigarette smoke damage unpainted plastic kits at all? I'd imagine after they're primed and painted you couldn't smell any tobacco on any of them, but I just wanted to be sure cause I need to store some unassembled recasts somewhere with heavy smoke.

Reposting my question from the last thread.

Four marines too late. Just tried out 's recipe and it's working out great. But speaking of, what parts did you use for that conversion? I might do something similar for my Praetor.

Put them in a sealed plastic bag for storage, problem solved.

Hey /wip/ how do you "fix" GW Metallics they are too shiny. For the model I'm currently painting they are popping out a lot.

Mix in regular paint.

they already are, but I worried that the smell might still permeate through

So apply a thin coat of Devlan Mud / Badab Black then mix in regular paint? For instance I'm applying Shining Gold, mix it with perhaps some Brown?

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I usually wash after. For gold, I'd optionally undercoat Mournfang (or whatever it used to be called), then mix mournfang and your gold, wash, then highlight with pure gold then silver.

I forget whether Badab and Devlan are matte washes, but the regular Nuln / Agrax do a decent job of matting down metals.

That is exactly that I did, I'm in the highlight part of the process but still it is too shiny (maybe I applied too wide the highlight?), but anyways thanks for the input. I will try to wash then mix with base brown for the highlight and go thinner.

>trying to strip models completely so I can reprime due to my shitty primer jobs from a year ago
>simple green ain't removing army painter black or the chaos black spray
would super clean do it? or something else?

Anyone has a idea where I can get some zany tzeentch-ian shapes to print out for my bases?

I'm already running out of ideas

Super Clean works slightly better than Simple Green. I've had the best luck with pic-related (it's only sold at Dollar Tree as far as I know), but black primer will never completely come off unless you carefully scrape it with a knife. I've reprimed minis that had still had some old primer on them after stripping without losing detail. Just be careful to prime with short bursts/thin coats as you always should be anyway.

Just wash them thoroughly before assembling since I assume you mean HEAVY when you say heavy smoke, which WILL leave residue that builds up over time.

You really shouldnt store shit you dont want smelly or dirty in smoking areas

I thought about just sitting here for hours slowly scraping the primer off each of these models, desu.

Rubbing alcohol stripped my army painter primer and paintjob

What percentage did you use? 91%?

Did you soak, or did you just dip your brush and scrub like a madman?

This is the orkiest dred I've ever seen. No kidding.
10/10 from me.

70%. Slid right off in like 5 minutes. 91% works too

I used 70% because it was cheap so I could pour a shallow amount in a cup and just submerge the entire model lying on its side minus the base and just left it there for 5-15 minutes.

Short soaks mean light scrubbing required. Longer soak and the paint comes off on its own if you used thin acrylic paints

Working on the crashed aquila lander set. one of my first tries with pigment powder,

Word, thanks brother.

Need to strip a Centurion, 30 marines and 20 guardsmen, this should help.

Looks lovely.

thanks. the ambient light makes the yellow rust stand out a lot more than IRL

>Hey /wip/ how do you "fix" GW Metallics they are too shiny. For the model I'm currently painting they are popping out a lot.

This uses ye olde paint names, but you get the idea.

What's a good way to get/make terrain for the base of your mini's?
I want to make a desert ground, and so far I think that just glueing sand from the beach would be the best option

Looks good man

Started working on my Deathwatch - Overkill project I have had on the shelf for a while now.
Now though, I got hold of some textured rolling pins to make green stuff bases, and this is my first test base. I think it came out pretty good to be honest, a bit to detailed for a base, but still good fun to paint!

can someone post that, 6 step program to better photographs for your minis? The slightly snarky one.

>can someone post that, 6 step program to better photographs for your minis? The slightly snarky one.

Not sure if you mean the serious one ...

god damn i need some greenstuff pins

sand will destroy the paintjob of your miniatures whenever they rub against eachother. Go with agrelland badlands or something similar.

Can I write on my minis with a pen? I did this with a friend and the ink seemed to rub off. Do I have to use a special kind of pen or was I just being retarded and I need to give the ink time to dry?
Also, if I'm writing on a light brown, ushabti bone colour will black ink look strange? I'm trying to achieve the effect of someone writing on a big scroll cloak but I don't trust myself or know how to paint it freehand, every attempt has come out looking like zebra stripes.

Hadn't thought of that, thanks mate

Looks great, the added numbers and decals really makes the thing "come to life" so to speak. You really connects to the terrain, and it becomes more than just a crashed plane!
I remember having a blast painting this piece myself, hope you have as well, keep up the good work!

>I want to make a desert ground, and so far I think that just glueing sand from the beach would be the best option

It's a good start. You'll want to prime, paint, highlight, and wash the sand. This looks better in 28mm scale when you actually treat it like you're scaling it down.

I have a caligraphy pen that I successfully used on white paint washed with Devlan Mud (now Agrax Earthshade). It's a little more along the lines of a very fine marker, so I'd say something like what you'd use with other hobbies like scrapbooking would be fine. Just don't touch it for a while so it dries completely. I slapped some matte varnish over it as well, just to be safe.

I use micron pens for small details on my minis all the time. Never had any problem with the ink coming off, but it's generally been on more recessed areas of the model. The only thing is be worried about is that ink tends to dry a little glossier than paint, so you'll probably want to give it a wash of agrax or something afterward.

tamiya make a sand texture paint thats really good. i've found actual sand fucks up the scale of minis and looksbad

I highly recommend them. I got hold of a set of 3 from Greenstuffworld.com, one being the "flat" one. But I was so blown away I instantly ordered another 2 pins! Great quality and great details.

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Dark Apostle would be really cool. With a little of hard work you could get some good results. I'd go for it

That could proudly smash some dutch rebels.

Looting a rhino

Just need to do riveting

Given that things are picking up, I'm going to chance reposting here since I did it at a shitty time earlier today. Pic is of my chimera, the first model I've done in roughly eight years. For the most part I'm satisfied with it, but I'm not 100% on the mud/weathering effects.

Hoping to get suggestions, recommendations or comments on it and what people think. Light colored mud is supposed to be old, dry mud, while darker is fresh. Apologies for the mediocre picture quality.

>paint model really well
>Remove it instantly from table as it blows up
Just is life as an ork player

For the mud, stippling your two layers more into one another would help, as would a wash over both to tie the colours together a bit more with a common tone.

Is that unpainted Vallejo Sandy Paste?

>tfw want to use that product but already started basing using GW desert texture and drybrushing

Love it, this is what the hobby is all about!

Breddy good. Are you doing anything with the missile launcher or its optics? As of now it looks a little too plain. Maybe add an orky rocket sticking out of the front to illustrate them having used up the original munition (or reloaded after looting)?
Also, I take it the grot isn't glued in place yet

>he doesn't know that painted models always have much better luck and performance than unpainted ones

Silly user

You forgot to dirty up the back exit of your chimera.

it goes on much easier than GW product, and its something like 800% cheaper, i use it and their soil one

wait sorry, tamiya, it's Tamiya Sand effect

>using "technical" paints instead of sand and glue

When will this meme end?

What's a good way to drybrush a blue/black with citadel colors?

i did this one with sand. it's too big.

So add a bit more dark where the light is and a bit more light where the dark is strongest? Also, I guess Devlan Mud would work? At the moment I'm a little wanting for variety in paints, but I'm open to suggestions if you think a sepia or something like that would work better.

I didn't stick it on until the very end; since I've been holding off on varnishing until I could get some suggestions I figured I'd just wait a bit to do it. I'm not completely sure if I want it to be just on the bottom or on the top as well. My only reservation adding it to the top is that it'd obscure the red trim.

>using an airbrush instead of just painting by hand
>using different colors instead of just mixing your own out of primary colors

When will this meme end?

>it's too big
WELL THEN USE FINER SAND, WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH YOU

>buying miniatures instead of sculpting your own out of miliput and green stuff

When will this meme end?

Look, I'm not trying to shit on convinience, but buying literal paint mixed with sand is just fucking stupid.

i did, in one that happened to be mixed with an adhesive paste

>buying fine sand because the other sand was too big
>driving around town trying to find dust sized sand granules
>picking the smallest grains out of the beach
>having to sterilize non-purchased sand

Or you could just shut the fuck up because people were smart enough to find an easy and likely cheaper alternative.

>dirty up the back exit

Why? Don't tell me you don't paint your sand because that looks even worse than unbased.

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motherfucker

Thank you! Here was my first attempt, hope it turns out even better
Thanks for the idea, I'll try to ork up the rocket.
The grots isn't glued in, don't think I will I'll probably end up not and letting his ass sit in the hole for comic relief

I mean, I drove to B&Q and bought enough soft sand to base 50 armies for 3 quid, but if it's that hard for you then maybe stick with the premix.

was about to post this

Do you guys fully assemble your bikes prior to painting?

I think the grot fits and adds a lot of character to the tank, but I feel like he'd be better off riding on top of something rather than just sitting, or behind a sheet of metal or the like. Regardless of what happens to the git, I look forward to seeing it all come together.

>keeping a giant bag of sand lying around in your house

Why?

To simulate the feeling of breasts

Rusting is an ass pain.

>only one texture
>have a giant leftover bag lying around
>have to transfer sand to smaller containers to dunk miniatures in anyway
>have to buy more giant bags for various grits

Or you could be like literally every painter on YouTube and just buy basing sand. The pocket change you saved by being so smart was probably already wasted in time, gas money, and having giant bags of sand lying around the house.

You're literally as stupid looking as the person who bought several tons of maple syrup in oil drums who laughs at people buying overpriced syrup from the market.

Realistic rust is real easy, desu.
Use a little typhus corrosion, then use watered down Ryza rust as a wash in the joints where 2 metal parts meet

No, rusting is oxidation. It's literally iron burning at an extremely slow pace because of contact with water.