WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

When working with china resin, do I clean them first or should get rid of excess mold and then clean?

Librarian got some paint on his face because I was tired of not actually painting

Is Vallejo Black Wash best straight out of the bottle or thinned down?

painted head on his unpainted body because fuck you

Either way works. I wash resin first because I don't like having a bunch of silicon grease on my hands and tools. You might even slip and stab yourself. Resin dust will also gunk up and stick to the oil.

>china resin
>excess mold
>mfw all the "HUR DUR RECASTS ARE FLAWLESS DIAMONDS BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL AND REQUIRE NO CLEANUP" faggots on Veeky Forums

I don't thin my washes because I am lazy but both ways work. If you don't thin it, it's really dark and if you're not careful it can run or pool. If you thin it, you can do much lighter shadows and work with it more easily, especially since any touches that go where you don't want it will be much more see through due to being thin. But if you thin it with water you might get areas that dry white or other small problems.

>HUR DUR RECASTS ARE FLAWLESS DIAMONDS BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL AND REQUIRE NO CLEANUP
i truly question why those people even bother, and i buy recasts frequently

I can run the Eviserators as Eviserators, yes, though I feel it's kind of a waste since BA Assault Squads can take Meltaguns. It just seems like the poorer choice given that you can take 2 Meltaguns in a 5 man squad and a Meltabomb on the Sergeant for the same price as a single Eviserator.

Might be fun to run them anyway footslogging around the board with Gabriel Seth in the "Compensation" Squad. Might magnetize the arms on the Meltagun guys so I can run them as Eviserators too. Hmm, options options. Sucks you can only buy Eviserators in the Assault Squad. Them on Van Vets, Command Squads, and most of the HQs would be neat.

Progress on my converted salamanders

Rad

Can anyone here attest to the quality of these particular bits from Anvil Industries? I need 20 shield arms for a full TS breacher squad in the near future and at least 55 for a future IF shield-centric army.

What dioramas are you gentlemen working on?

Anvil Industries is pretty solid, what exactly are you worried about?

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks...

Link is dead. Any alternatives?

Whether or not I should drop $40-$50 on a bunch of arms.

Look up Painting Buddah on youtube.

To be more specific, I'm half in buying 60-80 breacher arms and half in just cutting up and re-positioning arms to become shield arms. On one hand it would save me money and wouldn't take that much effort. On the other hand, thats a lot of time.

Thanks user. checking it out now.

20 shield arms comes out to like $10 man.

Hey I could get a bike squad on eBay for $10!

I see your point though, I'll stew on it some more.

Progress on my first figure

Any tips, advice or anything would be greatly appreciated.

Looking pretty good so far
I would suggest some washes (if you haven't done so already) and then some highlights.
Then again, you might have already done it. I can't tell because of the photo quality.

middle looks way better

That sounds like a reasonable argument for washing first. Thanks.

I wouldn't call pic related anything near perfect, but I'd call it fine for basically half off the original price with shipping.

Infinity?

Thanks user

Yes i have already done some washes and highlighting mostly on the green areas, but not on the brass arms/legs yet though so will do. Have to redo the stomach area too. It's messy and too bright

Not too bad. Could be worse.

Paint looks a little thick, most notably around the yellow area.

You have a mold line at the red

And idk if blue was intentional, but you got some white on the boot there.

Yes, the "Hassassin Barids" character

Where do you do your half price shopping?

Thanks user

In regards to the yellow area, is there any way to pull some paint away from the green glob while refraining from stripping(or at least as little as possible of) the surrounding area?

Also i hadn't even thought to remove the seam line, i guess i could sand it off?

And yeah the foot among other things just isn't finished yet, considering adding dirt over the bottom of the legs once they're all done

The claw was ebay, but I have some stuff from MI on the way. Mostly weapon bits. If I like it, I'll order some bigger stuff. Maybe a NL contemptor body or even Batman.

>In regards to the yellow area, is there any way to pull some paint away from the green glob while refraining from stripping(or at least as little as possible of) the surrounding area?
Maybe try scraping it off. Or, just save it as an example so you know what to avoid? Then one day when you're a master painter, you can look back and see how far you've gone.

>Also i hadn't even thought to remove the seam line, i guess i could sand it off?
Most things you can just use a hobby knife and scrape it off. Hell, you can usually use the dull side to do it. Just be careful.

Even the best acrylic spray primers will scratch off clean and well primed resin minis right? I just need to stop scratching my resin with a fingernail like a retard right?

Sometimes a poorly washed figure or a weak spot will have paint rub off after I'm done so I've taken to testing the durability of primer on resin now but it just scratches off real easy.

Thanks, i'll try and scrape the paint out of there with a sewing needle or something. I should definitely get a hobby knife too

>Anvil Industries

Never heard of them before, checked them out, might have to buy some TOTALLY NOT SPACE MARINES (TM).

I don't like their POUCHES POUCHES TACTICAL POUCH OPERATING marines, but I love their NOT-HALO ODST humans. Totally rad armor and helmets on those guys.

The walkers are also pretty Alien-esque too.

Ork bastion I finished a while back. Made it pretty much the same size as an assembled Imperial Bastion. Also I did enough barricade pieces for a Defense Line, though I've never gotten around to painting them.

I had an idea but am stumped on how to execute, the idea for my necron destroyers, they could be large airborne sphinxes, but I can't find any mechanical sphinx models, what would you recommend on this concept's execution?

That is a retarded idea UNLESS the Sphinxes all fly around in their Egyptian statue lying down pose and shoot lasers from their eyes and mouths.

well they will now!, save the destroyer lord, she was going to be more of a centaur like build as an homage to the old necrosphinx

What grade sandpaper should I use on models? Does it matter for plastic/resin?

I bet you could get cool robo-lion or centaur legs from games like Dark Age, Warmachines Convergence of Cyriss faction, or Infinity, but the Egyptian headdress in robo form is the hard part.

I use skinny sanding sticks and they are SO FUCKING USEFUL. Way better than files (though you still need the sharp file for the thinnest areas).

The type I use is 240 grit on one side which isn't too rough but quickly removes sprue nubs and stubborn mold lines, then the other side you flip over and it has 1200 grit which is soft and polishes. So around those grits should be good.

I bought a sheet of 2000 grit sandpaper and it basically does nothing because it's too smooth.

that's awesome. how'd you do it?

How good is spellcrow? I'm thinking of buying some ork beret heads for my kommandos. anyone have experience with them?

Mostly scratchbuilt. The base is a square of chipboard from a thrift-store clipboard I bought. Walls are mainly foamboard, with chunks of styrene, cardboard, and corrugated coffee-cup sleeves for the chunkity chunks. Decorated with discarded Imperial Guard bits from previous looted vehicles, and some styrene I-beams and tubes.

Cyriss would be expensive like all PP figs, but the art deco aesthetic lends itself tot he sphinx

Help me decide whether to decapitate my watch master. He's made a nice name for himself on the table, but I'm just not happy with his face. I'd tried to paint actual eyes and ended up caking the whole face up. After emergency plastic surgery using, among other things, a toothpick to scrape out gunk, this was the best I could salvage.

Yea or Nay?

warosu.org/tg/thread/39348308 this could be a neat ref for your project

So I'm pretty much finished just got to finish the face, but other thinning my paints any pointers that I can get?
Also first 3 models to finish

Besides Agrellan Earth, what should I look at for a cracked earth effect for basing? I want to make my guys look like they are in badlands.

Getting a sharper brush might help with those highlights. Or going back with the darker blue and sharpening up the highlights manually by repainting over them until only a little bit is left.

Tiny twigs to make bramble, roots, and dead plants sticking out of the ground. Dead grass tufts. Brown rocks.

I'm doing video game style desert bases but it has some badlands overlap.

You're using the shitty, easily searchable reddit recasters thats why.

thanks bro I'll try that

I'm functionally retarded when it comes to that shit, so it's probably almost literally impossible for me to find any of the ones you're talking about.

I've seen them posted on Veeky Forums over 4 years ago when people shared his email readily and they're not nearly as flawless as he's claiming. All resin needs prep work.

I've used multiple and it's very apparent not all casters are created equal.

I've had shit from Forgeworld that was inexcusably bad, there was no way it would have passed any QA and was put in there as a joke or troll. I've also had perfect stuff.

I've had stuff from the Orient that was flawless. I've also had stuff I've had to bend with a hairdryer / soak in boiled water etc

It's a mixed bag.

I'm just starting with recasts because of 30k toys. My first was from ebay, the Dreadclaw above, and its about what I expected. I also got some Volkite that is ok, though pic related doesn't show everything.

I have some weapons coming from MI that I ordered, so I'll see how that goes. However, that's about as far as I've gotten.

I'd say using a sharper brush might help those highlights, also it kinda looks like the paint was already half dry when you made them, maybe thin them a bit more or add some drying retarder. Here's a pic for reference

>1 hour to paint this
>1 HOUR

Man, someday, I'll be just as good. In something like 10 or 20 years but still.

I'd take the head off. Not a fan of faces anyway.

>not including the base airbrushing
he preshaded everything then dumped pigments all over and did some glow effect
it looks really nice but it certainly took more than an hour

I'm looking to pick up some new brushes to replace $6 value pack brushes that I am currently using. Winsor & Newton Series 7 seem to be the top of the line, but $20/brush is pretty steep. Any other recommendations or do I just bite the bullet and buy the W&N?

Been painting up a sorceror to use as an extra Acolyte, just need to finish her base and colour her hair but im stuck on what colour to do, any ideas?

Decapitate, and use other base.

Pale grey

ginger

^ This. ANY Inquisitor knows that ALL Gingers are Heretical by nature of been guilty of the sin of being born mutated.

Is it normal for china resin to smell like chemical death when I file/trim it?

Aight, ginger it is

I sure hope you're wearing a mask, user

I am, though it's only a dust mask. Should I use something more industrial?

I wear one of the 3-M respirators with the pink disc filters, it's probably overkill though. you should be fine.

Alright. Wasn't sure. I can bring one of those home from work if I needed to.

On the note of what I'm working on: I had a few pretty gnarly mold slips on the legs of my Dreadclaw, so I just cut/filed down what I could. Was that the right thing to do?

>mold slips
yeah, cut and file if it's smaller. If it's bigger, fill with greenstuff then file/smooth it down.

This guy is a professional commission painter and has won multiple golden daemons and slayer swords, that paintjob is definitely doable in an hour for someone of his skill.

It's not your fault, the good ones make it hard to find them and use whitelists because every other reddit post going "gibe catalog pls" is a GW lawyer.

Good quality, usually throw in some spares just in case - mixed results on communication. I've had no problem but a friend has never had a reply back. Polaks.

Man I fucking love the Eradication Cohort bundle. Kataphrons, Sicarians, awesome fishbowl robots and a bunch of techno thing bits to decorate your guys with! It's such a good deal.

Hows this?

He literally says he didn't do it in an hour though.

Does anyone know where I can find tutorials on making greenstuff arms and muscles? I have 2 bullgryn that are missing their arms and I want to fix them.

That looks great

He said he didn't do the base in that amount of time and he didn't finish the shoulders. Still means he did the main model.

no, he said that the time doesn't include his basecoat airbrush work. What he's saying is that the details took him an hour.

Except he "literally" does.

In text.
Right there.
In that image.
That you quoted.

Lmao airbrush basecoating is 5 seconds of painting.

>Wanted to get back into 40k after getting out of it in my early teens
>Bought some DKoK from FW when Brexit happened and prices dropped
>Remembered I'm a shitty painter
>Feel like I'm ruining every model I paint and wasting money
>Contribute to /wip/ solely through duncan memes
>Tempted to try an army more suited to painting beginners
>Prolly marines
>Fav chapter is Imperial Fists
>Know yellow is going to be a pain to paint
>Executioners and Black Templars are also going to be a pain to get bits for
>Storm Wardens are simple and have interesting lore
>Would have to do chapter badge freehand which I'm terrible at

AAAAAAH

>Wanted to get back into 40k after getting out of it in my early teens
>Bought some DKoK from FW when Brexit happened and prices dropped
Shit I'm like you, except I'm ok at painting
THIN YOUR PAINTS