I want to do a blue Blood Angels successor, is this heretical?
I'm trying to get a more 'azure' blue (as befitting pretty marines) and I'm thinking white marble pauldrons.
Elijah Powell
Anyone know how to paint white/albino fur? I feel like it should be as easy as starting with an offwhite and working up to pure white with layers of drybrushing, but I also feel like that sounds too easy to work.
Jeremiah Stewart
Paint with grey basecoat, wash black and highlight with an off white/greywhite ton and then use pure white on the top of the furs If you're drybrushing do the same as I said, fur is easy if you drybrush it and the result is good. You can manually highlight which takes a lot of time but looks incredible
Landon Parker
Thanks man.
Bentley Lopez
Got my overlord featured on the gdubz site.
I thought it looked shit lol
Jack Sanchez
I just finished this guys. I though they were going to be really easy to paint, but it took me almost a year for gather enough strength to finish them.
Infinity miniatures are nice to paint, shame that the game itself is so tedious.
Charles Brooks
Those are really nice mate, great job. My only critique would be the highlights are a touch stark for my tastes, but thats just me. They still look spot on!
Ryan Williams
Well done, lad.
Juan Smith
That looks pretty great user.
I wish I could get NMM blending consistently as good as those.
Evan Wilson
>Got my overlord featured on the gdubz site.
Groovy.
Jason Taylor
So I've been putting together my first Knight, and cleaning a couple mouldlines I've missed because I'm a fuckwit, and although the bottom and back sections went together nicely, there are some gaps between the front of the sides and the section that is below the head, pic related. What do I do about them, if anything? Fill with glue, do nothing or try something with greenstuff? This is my first kit I've really ran into this problem with.
William Torres
It's a fair complain; I normally paint trying to emphasize blending instead of highlights (like this pic), but Infinity miniatures has so many details that I tend to exaggerate the lights in order to get something that look right from above.
Thanks btw!
Nathaniel Cox
That makes a lot of sense when you say it like that, i'll let you off :^)
That fleshtone is fucking perfect... I hate you.
Carter Brown
the shirt and pillow are fucking perfect. well done
Hunter Rodriguez
Where did you learn to do flesh like that? And for that matter, what paints do you use?
I've been trying to practice skin for Kingdom Death but it all comes out looking like an awful mess.
Colton Cooper
Hey guys I posted yesterday asking for tips. This is what came out of my attempt. Don't know why the face is all speckley now. Maybe too much dry brush? I'll post the before in a second.
Sorry for file size, mobile photo
Christopher Powell
My complaint exactly about infinity itself. You'd think with models so nice the game would flow just as smooth.
Robert Edwards
OH GOD I AM SO SORRY
Henry Smith
Before. he's the fellow on the left
Jaxson Anderson
>4.17mb 5k x 3k >3.32mb 2.5 x 2k >4.84mb 3.2k x 2.5k
>3.32 MB, 2649x2117 >4.84 MB, 3290x2549 Stop this shit
Matthew Sullivan
I like the speckleyface. Gives it texture, like it's old and beat up.
Leo Miller
Hey, thanks a lot. Really.
Jonathan James
Didn't know how to resize it. Really this is like the second time I've ever posted on any of these types of forums. Sorry
Christian Scott
>I thought it looked shit
Good eye, cause it does.
Landon Russell
lurk moar
Cooper Brown
Of course not. Remember that there's a Duncan tutorial for marble.
Asher Evans
Well done lad.
Now, do note that they do feature shit jobs sometimes, but don't worry, yours isn't.
Ayden Murphy
Easy, look up in your phone's settings when taking a picture. You can change the resolution. Take one of the lowest one.
And then, crop your pictures, no need to take the whole desk with it.
Juan Lewis
Lurking =/= posting
It's another world
Thanks
Sebastian Johnson
>lurking =/= posting No shit. I'm saying don't post and lurk more. Then you would have realised your mistakes before making them.
Bentley Fisher
Oh cool thanks. I like the other people's advice better but I'll take what I can get.
Grayson Bailey
Thanks :)
I use Vallejo model color. I think that the most important thing to paint the flesh this way it's using a really thin paint to do the blending. It's about letting the paint move into the miniature more than "apply" it.
This is my recipe:
Base coat: Sunny Skin Tone (70845) First shadow: Brown Sand (70876) Second shadow: Brown Sand (70876) + Flat Earth (70893) Third shadow: [Brown Sand (70876) + Flat Earth (70893)] + [Chocolat Brown (70872) + (very little) Black (70950)] First light: Sunny Skin Tone (70845) + Basic Skintone (70815) Tones: Calvary Brown (70982) Second light: Basic Skintone (70815) Third light: Basic Skintone (70815) + Ivory (70918) Highlight: Ivory (70918)
I made a tutorial some time ago, it's not about flesh, but it shows the process that I use to paint it: imgur.com/a/oRtlX
I really wanted to love it; waited for the 3rd edition waiting for a big rework in their core mechanics, but they even make the problem worse. I don't want to be checking 3 200-pages books every 5 minutes in a game, it simply take away all the fun.
Try to thin more your paint. You need more precision, but you only going to achieve that painting more, so keep working.
True metallic is difficult to improve, you could try to do something like pic related, with an easy nmm.
Ah, it's you! I love your painting style, andyou should post more
Henry Campbell
Do you varnish your minis and if so, with what?
I've been googling brands and according to comments all of them are the best thing ever or absolute crap depending on who you ask. Looking for a matt varnish either brush-on or rattlecan.
Chase Reed
I personally prefer Army Painter matte varnish (rattle can).
Daniel Powell
Testors Dullcote
Andrew Parker
>Do you varnish your minis and if so, with what?
This stuff works pretty well. I also sometimes use Citadel's 'Ardcoat on surfaces with waterslide transfers to help keep them from rubbing off when being handled during games.
Liam Brooks
currently converting some chaos cultists, anyone know what size bases they use for the game?
Ian King
reposting pic from the last thread, not had time to take a newer one yet but I could do with some advice. Next thing i'll be painting on this guy is his sword, what sort of colours do you guys think would go well? I'm thinking possibly orange to match the glowey parts but i'm not 100% confident I could make it look decent
Asher Rodriguez
Oh hey, saw these in the last thread. They look better! You could also add some extra highlight to the coils in the body of the rifle, I'd be tempted to go real bright with them, make them look like they are glowing. Other than that I think it's just going to be a case of practicing and painting more to improve, so get painting!
Thomas Nelson
magnetised but only basic loadout painted thus far.
Carter Parker
Pretty sure it's the 25mm bases for cultists.
Ethan Jackson
Got any WIP shots or at least what parts you're using? Was thinking of converting some cultists myself in a few weeks.
Brandon Bennett
What does tg think of my blood bowl base?
Thinking of basing my entire team like this.
Gavin Bailey
I would use 25 mm
Ge has been switcing over to 32 lately though
Brody Cook
I dig it. If you're gonna label some of your team you've gotta label them all though or it won't look right.
Brody Baker
Does anyone know a good source of feathers to put on some IG helmets? I tried looking into stuff like the bolt action bersaglieri but looks like the heads are not available as a separate pack.
Eli Baker
warhammer fantasy empire stuff
Isaac Barnes
Threw together a chaos spawn with extra bits, painted it up, need to do more touchups and have since put crackle paint on the base. Though, painting this thing cemented my aversion to painting any of my kingdom death models. I am shit at skin. Also, they're spare bits. In case of an autistic rage from some user: no, I did not break apart an entire KD mini for a shitty spawn.
Leo Stewart
well, I won't be sleeping tonight
Cameron Harris
poor poor Ivy. Soul Edge is a helluva drug
Easton Wood
I like it!
Jonathan Lee
Is he doing some assault from a thunderhawk? (mini still looks nice)
Lamenters are yellow, and a blood angel succesor, so I don't see any problem.
what is shit about that?
nice
not bad, could be better, but all in all, not bad
great work user
looks nice
>I am shit at skin. I don't find it bad also, my I ask, from where are the female legs?
Nathan Hernandez
Do you scratchbuild the bases or are they premade?
Dominic Gomez
Pic is what I'm going to try finish now. I keep painting Malifaux, but the community has died in my city, so sooner or later I'm gonna drop it and start with KDM.
Nop; I lurk around here and I used to be on the Malifaux forum, but nothing more. I should make a blog or something because I do commissions some times and it would make my life easier, though. Maybe I'll try to make one this weekend; I'll discreetly spam it here when it's done.
Haha, I post here a lot, but I usually do without posting any of my miniatures to keep a low profile.
I have used Vallejo air varnish and it looks nice. A professional once told me that the best one was the matte one from marabu.
Eli Phillips
The female legs and arm are an alternate choice for one of the kingdom death Saviour pinup models. Thanks for the feedback, anons, makes me certainly feel better about it. Though, I now see moldlines and a splotch of blue on a tentacle; was a bit too hasty to post.
Mason Brooks
I'm working on a Throgg-proxy. The thought behind the mini is to have a Daemon Prince/heavily mutated champion/Troll King which will lead a horde of Nurgle mutants (Putrid Blightkings), trolls and the odd minotaur (which will all proxy for trolls). As of now the mini is simply composed of a GW minotaur with the head from a Mantic Moloch, but I'd like to make some further additions to it to make it appear like a proper great champion of the Chaos Gods. What are your suggestions? I'm half tempted to give him the skull cloak from the Chaos Lord on Manticore box.
Lincoln Cooper
thanks for the source of the legs and about the moldlines and the splotch of blue, since it's a spawn anyway, it doesn't matter that much (in my opinion)
Hunter Wilson
Those are premade; urban series from microart. I do my own bases now, but only because I'm a cheapo, premade normally look better. Pic are the one I made for cities now.
Asher Thomas
That's really good. Only thing I can think of is the helmet socket of the mid guy should have been darker since you can see into it and it's all bright.
Jaxon Howard
This. Use Testors' Dullcote if you are a billionaire. Use Army Painter Anti-Shine if you aren't. Other non-yellowing UV resistant mattes probably get the job done just fine but Testors and AP have given the most consistent, highest quality truly matte (with texture) finishes from my experience.
Nathan Lewis
is there a goto varnish for use with an airbrush?
Anthony Martinez
Starting Guard and while I've got the colour scheme down I haven't decided on a regiment yet.
Thoughts?
Aiden Taylor
Solid guardsmen, i usually prefer though to go with a lighter color for the cloth
What brown do you use? I use zandri dust
Lucas Jackson
Paint job's definitely solid.
Benjamin Lopez
I use vallejos gloss and matt varnishes
You have to be careful though with the matt varnish because too much ruins the model
This model is coated in matt varnish
Wyatt Nelson
Vallejo or Liquitex, thinned with airbrush thinner. You COULD decant the spray varnishes into a cup and use that, but that's just pointless.
Jordan Carter
The only issue I have with Vallejo matte varnish is that it's very thick and while it leaves a nice hyper matte finish, it dries smooth due to the resin shell. I like my matte varnish to have a rough matte texture to so you know it's a true matte just from picking up the model. Army Painter's brush on matte varnish is thinner and has this feeling, but it's not as protective as Vallejo matte and it's not as rough or consistent a finish as Army Painter or Testor spray.
Nolan Brown
Thanks guys, the cloth is Mournfang brown sprayed right onto the plastic, washed with argrax earthshade and I lightly highlighted the raised cloth with Gorthor Brown. I wanted to go for the muddy earth/forest look so I figured a darker fatigue colour would be more suitable. Sick of doing sand bases.
Sebastian Hernandez
This rough effect is what i try and avoid which is why i use vallejo
I agree its very think like their otger varnishes, but on the plus it gives you greater control on the thickness of the mix
Chase Scott
If I do not have an airbrush would I be better off with getting one of the spray varnishes mentioned in this thread or brushing one on?
I already brush on my primer so I have no problem with doing it that way if I will get better results.
Ethan Martinez
That makes sense
I am not a fan of sand bases myself, they usually seem blan and lazy to me
Alexander Lopez
Most can varnishes are not ment for models, some people use them but you have to be extrememly carefull or else it will goop
If you gonna brush it on them use vallejo matt varnish, i use that to seal my decals and i use a brush for that. Its very smooth and thins very easy with water
Liam Carter
Why is he glowing with a holy radiance?
Only thing I would add is a brighter highlight to the face. Right now it looks like a dark flesh base with a wash and that's it.
Jace Gray
I think you'll be fine with a brush on varnish, just thin it down. If you buy a spray can just make sure you don't spray in high humidity or it will frost, and don't spray on thick layers or it will frost.
The key to any kind of varnish is moderation and low humidity. So that means thin your brush ons, and only light bursts of spray in low humidity weather.
Dominic Morgan
Pic related is my sand base for my Doom Eagles. It's a neutral colour so fits the silver well enough. Just got sick of it after a while and fancied a pallet change.
Jason Hall
That's a nice clean overlord there user. Well done
Caleb Taylor
Good to know. I'm using Vallejo primer and mediums already so I will just add that to the shopping list.
Would it be worth doing my metals with gloss varnish then since I am already brushing it on or will they still look good with the matte?
Hunter Cooper
I have to use sand bases because my army is grey and black. It's either sand or snow. Anything else like mud or urban will blend into the model and make it a blob and I don't want green grass.
Jonathan Roberts
Were are all these helpfull anons when i have questions!
Still cant paint yellow for the life of me
Michael Clark
Orange to match grooves. Your work so far is excellent user, you will be fine
Eli Ross
What i am refering to btw is when people throw down two tan colors and call it a day
>doom eagles Fuck mate i dont see enough people playing that chapter
Jose Flores
Because the light of the Emperor shines on the righteous.
I did try, but it ended horribly. I plan to leave them for now and re-visit the flesh when I can paint skin tones better.
Logan Martin
Orange
Do a gradiant
Joshua Cruz
What exactly is Lahmian Medium? Are there any other products like it?
Brayden Baker
>Fuck mate i dont see enough people playing that chapter He's not actually playing them. A few threads ago he randomly rolled which chapter to paint a spare marine.
Sebastian Jones
It is acrylic medium. Any acrylic medium that isn't "acrylic matte medium" or "acrylic gloss medium" will do the job. I use Vallejo Thinner Medium instead. Liquitex has some too.
Gavin Richardson
That wasn't me.
I have a full Demi-Comapny and Armored Task Force of Doom Eagles. Had them for months.
Dominic Foster
Post pics. Veeky Forums needs more rare chapters pics and not a million space yiffs/GKs.
Austin Thompson
Doom Eagles dump incoming. give me a bit.
Brandon Ward
Captain Salock Varren, leading the Doom Eagles 3rd Company. Posing gloriously after a battle against the insidious Tau.
Leo Turner
Fuck me m8 im so slow when painting, ive been painting this assault squad for over a week now
Kevin Scott
My apologies then. What a coincidence!
James Johnson
Taking a dive into mediocrety for a second, would you guys take a look at this model I'm assembling? Taping up before the final gluing. Is this a decent pose?