Does anyone know how this guy in pic related made the choppa for his boss? It's clearly the Brute's Gore-Choppa sliced, but I'm not sure where, or what's attaching everything.
Carson Jackson
Best way to highlight bright metallic gold, WIP?
Ian Torres
Started painting fairly recently. Bought some washed up DC, took of their packs to replace with jump packs. The models were in pretty bad condition when I got them, so I figured they make good practice models. What are some tips y'all have for improvement here?
Benjamin Martin
Not terrible. I think the color scheme is kind of cool. Highlights could be thinner and thin ye paints, just git a little bit on ye brush
Ethan Robinson
make the cuts, use greenstuff/plastic cement .. your can carefully "smooth" the melted plastic if you use the cement and wait a few secs
Parker Perry
I just realized how big that is. Specifically trying to do a bone/white death company for lamenters.
James Cooper
No, I don't mean how to put it together, I mean what parts are being used. Besides the gore-choppa--what's the hand/hilt from?
Is it from the Megaboss itself? I'll go check mine
Adrian Cox
Re-dooting
Ethan Torres
It looks like it is. It seems the gore-choppa's been cut right where the first hand is, and attached right to it. Interesting.
Nolan Morgan
Anyone have any suggestions on what brushes to buy? Shell out for gw stuff? My brushes are all fucked and I want to get back into painting
Parker Jones
pretty cool but theres no dootage. When you give them the doots I expect the doot to be so powerful it crashes the site. What colours did you use for the clothing?
Henry Rogers
i´m back after years, too, and for starters i got the "daVinci NOVA-Synthetics - Hobby & Craft" set : it got a 1570, 3/0, 0+ ,2 and a size 4 in it. was about 18 euros - and can´t complain so far
Evan Morris
I am about to venture into the world of greenstuff, as I have put it off for as long as I can. Does anyone have any general tips?
Also, if anyone has any specific tips for the following I'd appreciate it.
I have a lot of sprue/B@C parts, mainly bolters and such to use as a base.
Making a grav gun for biker marines
Making a librarian biker, specifically the psychic hood on a model so it doesn't look like garbage
Making a chaplain biker, I am unsure what to do here, I might just chop the head off and put the skull helmet on the biker body and sculpt some chaplain-y stuff on it.
Changing the proportions of a centurion as in the following: masteroftheforge.com/centurion-tutorial/ I think it is pretty clear but if there is anything a noob will mistake, I'd appreciate a tip.
Filling in gaps in vehicles, rhinos and land raiders specifically
General imperial fist logos sculpted on marines.
I know it's a long list, I've put it off as long as I could. I am a noob, but I try until the models (at least painting so far, I haven't sculpted or based yet) look "good".
For reference, I am the turd who keeps posting the IF tacticals. The one someone thought were angry marines.
Pic semi-related
Andrew Russell
go to Dakkadakka - they got a whole forum for just this
Thomas Martinez
I haven't heard of that, but I will google it and do just that. Do I need an account?
Benjamin Peterson
no, only if you wonna post
Owen Cox
I posted what I said before, and I am searching around atm
Owen Perez
Everytime I see an centurion I think of Maernus Calgar and wonder why didn't them make him one
Alexander Lopez
I'm more of an IF fan, but yes I know what you mean. Now that you bring it up you are right.
Jaxon Young
Yeah, in the cover of ultramarines codex he looked literally like one
Brody Perez
I really like the Army Painter set. Pretty much my go to brushes for most work.
Jonathan Roberts
Took a better pic of these. My goal was to try speeding up my squad painting as I'm slow as fuck so I painted properly the main features like the helmets, banner and power weapon and rushed the rest a bit, not caring too much about precision or smoothness.
Overall I think they took around 30 hours, from box to pic. 7-8 hours were just for the banner, a bit too much, but I am not specially proficient at freehands yet.
I also commited a major fuckup using liquid mask which took around 3 hours to remove and fix. Basically I applied the mask and let it on for over two days, so it kind of fused with the paint under it and I had to scrape it all off.
If you don't count the banner and the fuckup, that's more or less 2 hours per model, I think it's ok, but could be faster.
Julian Peterson
not bad
Christopher Cook
>52351051 >not bad
dont be a cunt.
Noah Ross
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Dominic Walker
Can I get some hot takes and opinions on either of these color schemes? Photoshopped from someone elses' obviously
Alexander Howard
ok, they are awesome
Dylan Foster
...
Jack Sullivan
Wonderful work
Ian Anderson
Definitely purple. It looks rad and Orks have enough green already.
David Collins
Finally got to finish my Baal Pred. Happy with it seeing as it's my first vehicle, won't dry brush next time and will just layer it as I didn't find the results all that great. 100% magnetized as well.
Camden Bennett
Got a little more work done on the bust last weekend, few more details and should be good to go, wish I had glued in the horns earlier, might have a bit of gap to deal with.
Nathan Reyes
Purple definitely. It's hella' rad!
John Bell
Fantastic job! I'm looking forward to seeing the creepy goat eyes.
Julian Nguyen
Really cool looking fellas you got there!
Kevin Morales
Re-posting my Throgg-proxy Daemon Prince. I need some suggestion how to go about making him look more daemonic. Any suggestions and ideas how I can accomplish this are highly welcome!
Tyler Carter
Here's a side view of him. Trying for a hunchbacked look.
Levi Turner
That neck is outrageously THICC
Chase Sanders
Looks great, user.
Owen Williams
Minotaurs like hitting the gym.
Eli Young
acceptable for friendly tabletop but Id have to mark down in a tournament setting
Eli Smith
Here is a step by step tutorial on turning a generic skull into a chaplain helmet. This might be a good way to learn a little technique without diving into sculpting from scratch. Just be sure the check he scale of the skull before you start.
What sort of bonkers standards do you have if that is merely acceptable tabletop-standard?
Landon Hernandez
Autistic shitposting standards, presumably
Michael Phillips
That's what I call GOAT job
Brayden Wilson
>from the warp
Whatever happened to that guy?
Liam Morales
He went home?
Leo Mitchell
In my area a paint job of mostly one solid color and some highlighting just doesnt cut it He wouldnt be allowed to field it at my local
Michael Rivera
Not him, but calling good/great models "tabletop standard" is one of the dank new memes in this general.
Parker Foster
You're clearly a troll as the models have a fair bit more colours than just one. Would your local also show the door to people who went with the generic Chaos Warriors-paintwork?
Xavier Foster
I'm curious, show us your local standard.
Joshua Cox
Just finished this weirdiboy. Any tips? Plz go easy only just starting.
Noah Watson
So basically no 40k allowed in your area? :^)
Luis Mitchell
I'll bite.
Thin your paints.
Look up Duncan tutorials.
Robert White
>projecting your own lack of skill on everyone else this hard
Nathaniel White
he stopped caring about the hobby, started caring more about his family.
Hunter Watson
Yikes.
Logan Flores
>actually replying to this blatant troll
Jaxon Butler
Hey guys, been busy with commissions but got some time to work on my stuff. Tried my hand at making a conscript. I shaved off the shoulders and the ankle guards so he only has his flak vest, and I gave him a shitty cloth scarf thing to make him more dynamic. Waiting for my heads to come in, the kolony winter militia head. He's basically gonna look like some peasant with a gun and flak vest and a shitty leather gas mask. How'd I do with the greenstuff and filing?
Ryder Gray
>troll Well heres my eldar compaired to his. Notice how I actually paint the details instead of overspraying one solid color and highlighting? Also doing so on just the plain out of the box models is really just lazy
Nolan Cruz
Forgot pic
Carson Lewis
Some baits you just gotta take.
Jack Carter
Your point is invalid, you literally paint clowns.
Connor Turner
Not an argument.
Jonathan Long
>Mold Lines.
If you ever brought that army to where I play the owner would stomp your minis and ban you from the shop after making you clean up all the broken pieces from the floor.
Lincoln Clark
Silver + gold highlight, ink the whole thing with brown, go over the highlights again with regular gold.
It's the fakers way of blending, the inked gold will be darkest, silver gold will be medium, regular gold will be brightest. Adding silver gold in tiny little pointy bits will finish it off.
Charles Bell
testor's alternative? Become too much of a pain to get hold of.
Jeremiah Harris
Where?
Kayden Walker
If you can't see that god awful line on the gun and along the legs then you really need to quit this hobby. Taking a second look now I can't believe I missed out smudgy your paint is. Thin it or quit it.
Nathaniel Gutierrez
Any general tips for freehand? I feel like I'm leaving too many brushstroke, but if I thin my paint any further I lose control and get puddles and smears.
Dominic Bell
>your
Please calm down on the hostility. I'm not the troll.
Easton Walker
Do the edges first for sure, so you can use thin as fuck paint for the bigger bits. I assume your doing shoulder pads and unit numbers, so doing an outline in pencil is really helpful.
Also if your doing semi basic marines and not camo weathered tanks, figure which color is easier to cover, White markings on black armor, it's easier to paint a white shape and add black to shape it into your number or whatever. Doesn't work with real deal blending tho.
Lincoln Gutierrez
Thanks, user.
Evan Ramirez
Alright. Your complain basically is that those avengers don't have highlights all around them, isn't it?
You don't need to always go all the way to white or near-white like you did in your model, which for my taste is way over the top in value and seriously lacks any kind of shading, but I respect your preferences, if that's really your model, that is.
In my case, I used a zenithal kind of lighting, in which you should concentrate the highlights on the parts facing and closer to the source of light, ie head, shoulders, arms, while keeping the farther parts moderately highlighted, and the rest pretty much in shadows, like you can see in the avengers' backs, which do not have any light hitting on them, just like the underside of the knees (is this what is bugging you?). On the other hand, the area of the arms, shoulders, weapons, top of the knees and mohicans are all subtlely highlighted.
I'd like you to understand that this is not laziness, it's an artistic choice, the goal of which is both trying to get a more realistic result, and to direct your attention to the important parts. Obviously, I'm not a master of painting and still need a lot of practice, but if you want to become a real good painter you can't always paint "the GW style".
Gavin Bell
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Brandon Cook
...
Owen Nguyen
...
Isaiah Sanders
Pretty good, you got lots of em to do so I would spray it to much, painting will go far.
I did something similar with a eBay lot of fugly guardsmen. I added some wrapping around the boots and occasionally the arms if the hand joint was busted or not touching.
Oh and pig iron heads don't have an attachment bulb circle thing like guardsmen heads, you have to fill it in and make damn sure you got it on while the greenstuff is still moldable so you get a custom fit. Scale works ok though. The bodies are to small though, alot of the hight is the metal base that you should trim off to fit Warhammer bases nice.
Jaxon Morales
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Jose Richardson
Nicely done but I despise the shoulder pad inner border thing that GW pushes. They look way too stark, especially on the forearm.
John White
It's a good idea to make a rough sketch first to place the elements correctly, you can use some light grey for this so you can cover it easily later in case you need to make corrections, then you can outline it with a darker color, paint it inside the lines and lastly highlight/shadow the different elements just like you would do with any other part of the miniature.
Camden Mitchell
spot on m8
Ryder Hill
Thanks alot, but I can see what you mean!
Connor Phillips
the ambition is there, the skill will come. try to make his necklace stand out more.
Evan Flores
>Spray Sweat it to much, don't break your ass on basic gaurdsman.
>I'd like you to understand that this is not laziness, it's an artistic choice, the goal of which is both trying to get a more realistic result, and to direct your attention to the important parts. Obviously, I'm not a master of painting and still need a lot of practice, but if you want to become a real good painter you can't always paint "the GW style".
^ This, copy pasting what other people do means you are a shit painter no matter how well your stuff turns out. Im way more impressed but someone who has a half ass model thats never had help before than someone who just watched and followed a youtube with 20 shades of each color.
Liam Ramirez
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William Martinez
It's honestly lts like GW did it themselves, very clean. I like it, don't ruin it by doing something goofy.
Jeremiah Carter
Fallen or heresy? Could use em for both.
Landon Russell
Thank you mucho!
Adam Wood
>learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist
Cooper Harris
Pre-heresy (:
Oliver Perez
Thanks man, I might use the footwrap thing
Aiden Mitchell
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Robert Hall
Trying out a new scheme for my necrons, liking how the blue dry brush over the dark gray looks so far, curious if I should have it completely cover up the other color out leave it as is
Jordan Bennett
It's just a personal preference. That freehanded DA symbol is fantastic. The MK.III backpack has some pretty big gaps that could use filling though. That particular bit is always a huge pain.
Jack Baker
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Brandon Gomez
Finally ordered Mephiston to add to my BA army. But frankly the Lord of Death himself looks pretty lack luster. How can I convert him to look more badass/dynamic?