Of course! I would like to say we all have a little Johnny in us, but there are some shitposters who would inevitably show up just to take issue with that.
What are you working on?
Jonathan Morgan
Tau Broadside.
I got nuffin' to show because I paint unassembled. Really worried about magnetising. Usually I do that before priming but this time I needed to assemble a whole bunch of crap before I know what angles to set the magnets. It's hard because the arms for the railcannon and arms for the missile pods need to be facing two different angles
Zachary Lopez
I get the concept of priming, but I had always just used the chaos black because that's what I was always told to use. As I mentioned before, I'm a Sisters player, so I've been painting metal sprayed with chaos black for about 10 years.
Should I switch now? What about my old models that are already sprayed?
I'm also working with plastic now. What a out that?
In general, what should I use? Like I mentioned, I bought some white Gesso because I couldn't spray due to the weather and living in a small apartment. I've seen some friends sprayed stuff with rustoleum, and it looked like he sprayed it with a shiny, dark green epoxy coating almost, but there wasn't much loss of detail.
Also, this may sound dumb, but I've never used a seal before. I wasn't sure what to use because I have metallic armor and matte robes, and I like the shine of the armor. Pic related again for reference.
Carson Rodriguez
Hey /wip/ I need a color scheme for my scions, any suggestions?
Juan Wood
hydra dominatus
Ryan Nguyen
...
Landon Gray
54th Psian Jackals or...
Oliver Wood
Something similar to these little little lads. Yellow and black is a top-tier scheme.
Man, I really need to get some Warzone dudes and do some conversion work with 'em.
Hunter Jones
Almost done cleaning my first Deathwatch squad.
Liam Diaz
Your Durthu makes me want to follow in your footsteps with cherry blossom tree people.
Benjamin Parker
>assembling the bolter arm so it obscures the chest before painting Why do people do this? How do you reach all the details?
Ryan Foster
I can't help but think that they need a bit more yellow somewhere. Good scheme though.
Austin Myers
Those guys are like the Dark Angels of the Militarum Tempestus. Barely fucking bothering to hide their true allegiance.
Daniel James
Simple. It's like this: >"B-b-but you won't see those details anyway!" >since angles other than front-on don't exist
Xavier Myers
Update on the stonehorn, here is his base. Calling it 99% done, just have to spice up the snow in places and drybrush the tree.
Picture of beastie next
Mason Mitchell
Yo nigga is that crushed glass? Looks great!
Carson Martinez
And the stonehorn himself, still more to go but he is getting quite close.
C&C welcome
Jayden Cox
>sees model on table >picks it up, holds it upside down, and cocks it at a 37 decree angle
You missed a spot! I can't believe I'm playing with such inadequacy! >scoops grey tide into plastic bin >dumps tape and dice on top Good day sir!
Wyatt Barnes
Started cleaning the second Deathwatch squad.
Anthony Gutierrez
Except the missed spots are often visible if you're looking at the model from top-down. You know, like you would when you're playing a game.
Ryan Gray
Thanks for all the input Anons! I think I'm gonna go with the black and yellow scheme and I'll make sure to post them here when they're done. Thanks again for helping me decide, Anons!
Kevin Roberts
I'd recommend getting some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth out those rough spots.
William Perez
How do you "translate" a color to another color. What I mean is when, say, a GW tutorial says to use x red, x pink, x orange to paint a red Maw-Krusha, how do you know how to translate that to a blue Maw-Krusha?
Luis Rogers
Some color theory, a good eye for tints and tones, and a lot of practice and experience.
Grayson Jenkins
>dark red --> dark blue >light red --> light blue
Luke Russell
Experiment on something that doesn't cost a fortune.
Gabriel Mitchell
It was just the example that came to mind cause I was watching the GW tutorial.
Juan Jenkins
Thinking about ordering some conversion parts from forgeworld
Is there anything I should be aware of beforehand? I've heard that the resin will absorb paint in a different way than plastic does.
Any tips or mythbusting on that front?
Eli Davis
Anyone know how to make or if there is a very dark almost black metallic to paint over to get that candy alpha legion effect?
Robert Adams
Idk about that, but if its properly primed it shouldn't be an issue.
Asher Williams
Cleanse the model with dish soap and warm water. Use a toothbrush to scrub.
If you don't want to do that, scrub it with rubbing alcohol on a toothbrush.
Angel Richardson
Usually by the type of gw paint, they're labeled "base" or "layer", or "wash" or "glaze". Just find equivalents In colors that work well together
You'll find that a basic formula like "base, layer, wash, layer touch-up, highlight" is easy to pull off
Tyler Wilson
Alright awesome. Thanks for the tips guys. Time to make some World Eater CSMs!
Luis Wilson
It's still absolutely gorgeous, user. You're making me wanna buy a Stonehorn just to try and do that ice effect. i'm seriously doing repeated doubletakes because it looks like light is actually shining through/being reflected off the ice onto the stuff under it, fantastic work senpai
On another note, i'm working on some gue'vesa. This one's mechanical arm looks a bit goofy (fucking administratum gave him one sized for someone a foot taller), and I'm thinking of sticking a drone pulse carbine directly onto the joint so he actually has a tau weapon. Thoughts? excuse the gaps and shit, it's a test fit
Tyler Phillips
I'm going to assemble a contemptor (resin) soon and was wondering a few things. Starting simple is it best to assemble and basecoat the torso and limbs separately before sticking them all together?
Is regular ass super-glue going to be enough, or should I get something a bit stronger if I don't want it to come lose?
And what would be the best way to go about modelling an unfortunate Spare Marine getting stomped on by its foot? I have all the parts needed its just the execution that I'm having trouble figuring out.
Thanks.
Camden Ortiz
Progress on my first centurion, definitely some things I can do better on the next few.
I have some edges to sand down, especially on the plasticards. I'm also debating leaving the cables/crotch guard off.
What do y'all think?
Brayden Nguyen
Better picture, weapons and chest weapons are magnetized.
Luke Williams
Could we get a picture with the crotch guard in place? Not glued, just sitting.
Cooper Campbell
Thunderfire coming along, the cannon just needs highlighting and some detail work now. Already got another one of these, looking forward to dropping some templates on some dudes
Christopher Anderson
I will try, I have the phone sitting on something solid but I can't seem to keep it quite still. I'll try again
Mason Sanders
Same here, user. My photos are arguably worse (see for more information)
Lincoln Gonzalez
>Basecoating
If you're looking to do a good job, it is a good idea to prime and paint the parts before assembly, yes. That said, for some larger models it won't matter a great deal as you will still be able to get access to enough of it to paint sufficient detail.
>Super-glue
Super glue is fine, and pretty much the best way to go for resin.
>Modelling
That depends a lot on the exact pose and such you're trying to achieve.
Colton Martinez
I think this one is better quality
Asher Allen
Yeah, I reckon keep the crotchguard on. Lower half feels a little, idunno, small in comparison to the bulk of the upper half? With the crotchguard it feels properly bulky, but not to the degree of the original centuribear. I dig it, user.
Sebastian Davis
Finally finished this sucker. Thought I might share it with you guys
Kayden Jenkins
I tend to agree, it was hell to get the plasticard right but I got the technique down now.
Now for the other 5....
Luis Ross
Talk about THICK
Samuel Wood
This may have been asked before, but does anyone know how long the site is going to be a work in progress? And is this a move to separate WK40k, and it's weaker predecessor WH?
Jaxson Williams
Tzeenchan Chaos Lord with terminator armor, seers bane and a counts as combi melta
Jaxson Moore
user, it's a bit of a fuckin mess highlights look like they were done in crayon
Grayson Hernandez
I feel like he will need a hug now
Colton Foster
>the dead csm at his feet looks better than he does user.....
Josiah Anderson
I like the sword...
Isaac Mitchell
user, he's got a khorne symbol right there in his groinplate pretty cool otherwise!
Brandon Green
shit I posted my wip in the 40 kilogram general by mistake
Parker Hughes
I mean, it's not really finished, is it? there are parts of it that are straight up unpainted
Julian Stewart
Thanks! I posted it to receive some criticism so I do appreciate the honesty. highlights are a real weak point for me
Leo Johnson
>the blue paint that splotched onto the half-painted tassles on his belt
user, I don't want you to get discouraged, but I think this needs some more work.
Jackson Hall
So, just starting out at this, and thinking of picking up a box of the Imperial Guard (Cadians). But I'm not wild about the typical brown and green paint scheme for the guard. Are there any other particularly neat color schemes that work for Cadians? And, on a related note, are there any colors that are 'traps'? I've heard that white is really really difficult to paint, are there any others?
Gavin Reed
all of them, user. this whole hobby is a money trap. jokes aside pure white, yellow, and bone colors usually get newbies
Jeremiah Brooks
I got this Yncarne yesterday, I am about 80% done now. I just need to go over fine details like gemstones. I don't like the hair so I might go over it again. I have to do the sword but I am not sure how I want to do it. I tried non-metalic metals for the first time.
All in all I have been dreading paining my minis but I have been having a blast with this yncarne and it reminds me how much I love painting.
I have my first game with him (yes him) on thursday.
Owen Fisher
...
William Wright
those are some nice highlights on the sword. However, the rest looks like it was laid on unevenly, too much wash on the blue with no 2nd layer of blue on top, generally try to go for thinner coats, as putting a few on can really make a difference for covering the whole model and making it look less blotchy. Early tabletop/10.
Lincoln Myers
Now Rainbow Celestine will have a friend.
Benjamin Taylor
BUTT.
Isaac Scott
stupid arm gue'vesa is going into the freezer I'm thinking about putting a bigger backpack onto him and adding some wiring leading to the arm-gun, and maybe sticking some extra armour bits onto him. He's a big boy, he can take it.
Yellow's kind of a bastard, especially if you're undercoating with black. needs some neatening up and the face needs a bit of work, but i kinda like it
Joshua White
Well its on theme for my army.
Ian Davis
he just has a skull cockplate
the rune of khorne is a stylized skull, but all skulls are not runes of khorne
Camden Gomez
As noob walking into this, need to ask - when you talk about arms obscuring the chest, does that refer to *any* arm, or is it only a problem when they're holding a particularly big piece of equipment? Like, is a Commissar holding a pistol up less of a problem than a Heavy Bolter?
Connor James
It's usually not a problem if the miniature is holding the weapon up and away from its body. Marines in particular tend to clutch their bolters tight to their chests which makes painting the inner details difficult.
Eli Torres
Nope, look closely at the shape of the eyes and the teeth.
Zachary Brooks
It is! Scary shit to work with but the effect is killer
Such high praise! Thank you user, it's really appreciated. I really can't wait to get an army of these beasts on the field, far cry from my skaven
Carter Allen
It could pass as a generic skull but is right.
Kayden Perez
Now that I look at that khorne sigil, it does look like a sku-
MOTHERFUCKER
Kevin Collins
Does this mean that if a champion of khorne kills another champion of khorne, he's obligated to add his codpiece to the skull throne?
Charles Smith
Tradition dictates he add the codpiece to his own codpiece.
Brayden Bailey
COD FOR THE CODGOD. GROINS FOR THE GROIN PLATE.
Blake Jackson
A bulge to surpass metal gear.
Logan Anderson
well now we need someone to make a khorne champion whose armor is only codpieces
Jace Garcia
>scraping away some little bits of sprue from a gue'vesa's torso >notice a tiny bit of sprue that's moved up near the belt buckle >move to bite it off what the fuck is wrong with me /wip/ why was that my automatic reaction
Parker Cooper
Trying to get better at blending, very wip
Isaac Richardson
Find another tutorial with the colour palette you're aiming for and then apply those paints in the way of the first tutorial.
Gabriel Campbell
Goodness. I've been in Warhammer for more than a decade and I never noticed Khorne's sigil was a goddamn skull.
Chase Moore
Anyone willing to rate my first try? I think my base coats were too dark to start with and left it looking a bit dark but overall felt good. My friend put it as "Hey try to make them look like 40k orks for bloodbowl"
Also jesus never realized no matter how good something looks as the painter you ALWAYS notice the fuck ups
Xavier Young
THICC
Multiple thin coats, user
Pick up some medium
Josiah Fisher
>color theory I love this buzz word
Jacob Jones
Any way to keep basing material from falling apart? I've been looking at forest themes lately and I noticed a lot of players have little bits coming off in their photos.
Brayden Howard
I am just curious, lots of my friends have cool and well detailed mini but kinda look flat and too bright. How many coats should I be aiming for as a general idea for when I do my Skaven. I like them looking dark and dirty but not sure if I should go from a lighter/brighter shade then progress down to darker before I wash with Nuln Oil?
Nicholas Mitchell
What do you guys think? Any suggestions/tips?
Kevin Green
Why has his mate got Yellow stripes on his head crest, but this guy doesn't?
It's almost Greyscale. Not that that ever bothered me.
Jason Murphy
...
Xavier James
Like 2-3 is usually good
I tend to use 3:1 paint:medium or so
Don't use water, do NOT, it fucks up the viscosity of the paint and causes it to float weird as hell, becomes a pain to control
Dominic Hughes
Still a W.I.P Im tryin to figure a way out to brighten the gold trim on the armor without it flaring super hard and melding too much with the yellow I plan to stripe on his crest.
user, what are you doing? Are you trying to create a meme or something?
pic related.
Elijah Adams
Water is absolutely fine for most purposes.
I think you would benefit from watching some tutorials online because I think you probably need a clearer idea of how to approach painting in general. The warhammer TV Duncan tutorials are good and give very clear information for beginners.
Eli Sanders
You missed a blue spot on his head crest. Second stripe from the bottom, the middle stripe is unpainted. Otherwise looks good so far. The blue and silver works well if you're trying to keep him dull coloured.