WIP - Work in Progress General

Base needs some work and you could probably lighten up the hair but it looks pretty good to me.

Some support for my Sons. Weapons and tail still to do.

He's just demonstrating his disdain for xeno weaponry. NBD

too low res to see detail. I'm guessing its worse up close.

added some red flowers, hopefully will tie in better with Durthu now, still need to get hold of some brass etch leaves though

Get one of these instead. Infinite leaves

Question:
What's better for a dark green deldar armor, Camoshade or the Greenshade?

But those leaves are gonna rot... What a terrible idea.

dry leaves do not rot.
you can just as well just use green paper or stain paper with watercolors.

>TFW cleared up my painting area
feels good man

First few cars for the game I'm working on, I-80: Highway To Destruction

Until you realize that you only organized your painting area in order to procrastinate and not actually paint.

Anybody got some tutorials to painting black? I'm thinking of painting some flesh Tearers and death company but really want them to pop on the battlefield.

Alternate to flesh Tearers any other blood angels paint schemes you guys have seen that you really like?

The Dunc has a tutorial

Watch the one on deathwatch

>Alternate to flesh Tearers any other blood angels paint schemes you guys have seen that you really like?

Do Lamenters count?

>Alternate to flesh Tearers any other blood angels paint schemes you guys have seen that you really like?
Flesh Eaters are nice, but if you like Flesh Tearers you should really look into...

rapier crewmen wip, there is contrast and panel lining between the metal bits but my phone cam does not like all the white/metal

...Charnel Guard.
They have pretty much nothing canon in terms of color scheme aside from pic related, but they seem to be black and blood red like the Flesh Tearers. Bitchin' emblem too, but fuck it seems hard to paint.

Chipping away at my dispossessed Dorfs, finally re-based them all on shattered dominions, probably take longer now since the new Dorfs are coming...

Update on my lord, here's what I'm hoping to get.
Very much WIP, not even glued in most places. I'm probably going to bulk up below the helmet since, if I don't, it wouldn't fit otherwise. Also, would make him a bit more imposing instead of shoved into a chest box.
Still have mold lines, still wanting suggestions. Like the nipple tassels: yea or nay?

Shaping up well, maybe greenstuff the back of the legs so they look like giant legs rather than the odd space marine legs in the mech legs

>dispossessed
>bunch of End Times metal armor
>no skull pass pony

That's a grudge.

No pictures yet, but I built a unit of Rubric Marines and my Biomancy Exalted Sorcerer. I'm going to build one of the others as a Pyromancy-themed sorcerer and the last one as generic.

I have the pony completed, not pictured, cool you're boots ya batty crease

I think the left foot could use some highlights as it doesn't look as finished as his right but you done good, lad.

To clarify it's just the outside of his left foot that looks unfished in pic4. The inside of the foot looks great in pic1 and pic2.

I dig the nip tassels.

In after, because it's a basic as fuck tack-on conversion where you didn't even clean up the fucking sprue nubs, much less the mold lines.

You have some neat ideas going on here but squandered by the fact that you are maintaining a centurion basis instead of simply using the parts that make one big dude.

You could have had proper boot feet, or at least modified the feet to remove the excess stabilizing pads in favor of a more boot-like design. Not assembled the rear inner spacemarine legs so he's not actually a manlet in a suit. Moved the armpit blasters elsewhere so you could have better looking arm mountings and look less like a centurian.

What sort of lamp/light should I get for painting? My room light is shit as fuck due to power saving warm globes.

Here it is dry with the excess pigment removed. I'm happy with it as an estimation of rust.

I'm not super grand at greenstuffing, but you two make good points regarding the legs. I'm still far from done, so I might can make the feet more boot-like, and I'll see if I have some way to cover the back of the legs if not build up with greenstuff.
Keeping the nip tassels and pit speakers, though.

>some way to cover the back of the legs
you could just use more centurion pads, just cut the knee joint and reposition/shave them down to fit accordingly

much better than the usual dinobot head

If I had more centurion bits, I definitely would. I may end up ordering some, but for now I'm gonna brainstorm what I have. I will keep this in mind, though. Thanks.

One idea is a waist cloak thing. I'd connect it to the bottom of the chest and around the belt, which will also bulk up the hips more. Though, I've never done fabric with GS before, and I assume it's hard.

Daylight LED, bright enough to see shit so now energy saving low watt garbage, but not bright enough to get hot or blind you with glare.

Help me, /tg, you're my only hope!

I'm getting back into mini painting after many years and I need some good, reasonably priced brush recommendations for small to large scale models.

Smaller scale minis like Warhammer/40k and rpg minis to Gundam kits and large Reaper Bones dragons.

Glorious, user. Where's that head from?

You will literally need to murder someone in order to get it. It's from a Necrosphinx

Best Blood Angels.

Ah shit, thanks mate. eBay is throwing up blanks, as are the usual suspects.

That's cause all the WHFB and especially AoS players have snapped them all up months ago. You'd be lucky to find a necrosphix kit at any price, let alone a reasonable one

Hey Veeky Forums, I haven't painted anything since high school 5 years ago, and while I have a pretty hefty 1500 points army, I still haven't based or painted any of them.

I'm so afraid of starting. What's all the shit I need.

I think there are some recasters who do the sphinx

so you have an unpainted yet fully assembled army?

Yes.

Painting in sub-assemblies is for chumps.

alright cool, so all you need is to paint them up

if you want to base them, then i suggest buying some elmers glue and sand, easiest basing ever. just use a cheapo brush to spread glue on the base, add sand

go to walmo or something and get some krylon or rustoleum primer, not primer+paint, but just primer (i use rustoleum automotive black primer)

prime those bitches up

get some paints, ACTUAL MINIATURE PAINTS, cant skimp on this part sadly, or they'll look horrendeous. you'll need some brushes as well, i cant make much recommendations but i do use the citidel medium layer for literally everything

grab a few colors for your dudes, and some black and white along with a brown (or black) wash. wet pallets are a godsend and cheap as fuck, literally some tupperware, parchment paper and paper towels. also a cup for cleaning brushes. youtube and google tutorials on how to paint

im probably forgetting shit but ey

Finnish bunker from the Mannerheim Line + partially painted troops
1/3

2/3: Featuring a purchased German 105mm gun

3/3
During the war, Finland ran entirely out of white paint, so they had to drape linen sheets over guns for the sake snow camo.

but where is the sauna?

youtube.com/watch?v=DJ9w9J7gfJI
duncan memes

What do you think is inside the bunker? Duh.

NOBODY CALLS ME A CHUMP

WAR-TER

I just realized that Simo Hayha is lurking in the background among the paints and glue, as he should be.

>still haven't purchased a left-hand brush

I'm never gonna make it.

Haven't been on here for a while. Can't muster the will to model and paint. Anyone have inspiring words?

Pretty nice, user. Where'd you get it and how long did it take to get to that point?

I dig it. The blue is really nice and the gold is brighter than the dark, definately-not-bronze look people usually go for. The base, excluding the torches, is a little bland, though. Maybe add small tufts of grass to brighten it up?

That's fuckin' pretty, m8. Skulls look a -liiiittle- dull, but all in all, it looks fantastic. What more do you have planned for the base, might I ask? Looks like it could do with a tad bit of brown here or there. Mid brown or light, given the coloration of the grass.

Oh, no... Has it really been so long...? We're already forgetting the Tomb Kings.

Not the sort of thing I usually comment on, but it's pretty neat, man. The orange car could use some more attention, though. As is it looks a bit too much like... well, a toy that just recently had shit welded onto it, rather than an old, worn car that's had a lot of improvised armor and shit slapped onto it. The truck looks fine. The gold rims are a bit much.

Calm down on the metallic, dude. It looks a little thick, but most importantly it's overwhelming. It makes the model blend into itself, giving the impression it's one big blob of pewter or something. Get some more colors in there- more blacks, yellows, greens and reds- especially on the details, and highlight that metal with something bright like Runefang steel. If 15% of the model was metallic, you might be able to get away with not highlighting it, but there's no avoiding it on Iron Warriors.

I remember when you were still sculpting it and I asked some inane bullshit about if it was going to be hollow or not. I don't think I ever imagined it coming out so wonderfully. Also I'm pretty sure this model contributed to a nightmare I had the other day, where I turned into a plaguebearer. It really is fucking disgusting, and I admire you for making such a beautiful abomination. Are there plans to make the guts glossy, or keeping them dry?

Sable? Synthetic? If you don't mind brushing your models with the tail fur of a Siberian weasel that was probably clubbed to death by Chinese farmers and sold to Englishmen, everyone here will tell you to get Windsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brushes. You'll just get shit on if you skimp out, and if you look around you can find them cheap-ish. Otherwise, I can list some okay synthetics for you.

What's the difference between sable and synthetic?

Synthetic options are more than welcome. Thank you.

Sable is softer and its shape and tip are more durable and resistant to abuse.

Synthetic is much stiffer, whippier, and the bristles themselves are much more durable than sable bristles, however the stiffness leads to easily ruined points and ferrules.

If you go synthetic choose taklon. If the brush is very cheap, it's going to be shit, so just buy the higher end synthetics in a given specific size.

People who prefer more robust brushes for cleaning, or brushes that are stiffer and harder will prefer synthetic over sable, which can be very wimpy and soft.

A sable brush, like the Kolinsky stuff, is generally going to hold more liquid/paint in it. It has to do with how the individual strands of hair are shaped, and the fact that they're supposed to go together and work a certain way. It was grown in such a way that happens to be damn-near perfect for water-based painting needs. It's a bit of an investment, though, but people swear by their Kolinsky sable brushes. So long as you take care of them- clean them, use a soap and conditioner, and don't throw them around like you have brain problems- they'll last you a long while.

Synthetics, on the other hand, tend to be way, WAY cheaper, on account of it not coming from a rare Siberian weasel that is impossible to breed in captivity. There are brushes that come pretty close, Escoda Versatil being a synthetic Kolinsky brush that comes to mind with comparable properties. Most reviews you'll find of this stuff in comparison to the real deal is going to be from artists who make watercolor paintings, so they're using sizes much bigger than we do, but for the most part the downside is that an Escoda Versatil is going to hold less and wont be as "perfect" in shape. Does that matter much to us? In my opinion, no. The most I use is some cheap brushes from the dollar store to slap down primer, basing mud or heavy washing. Otherwise, you probably only need a 3/0 and an 0. That's just me, though.

Other brands I have found to be decent are Princeton Summit, Robert Simmons White Sable, Da Vinci Nova Synthetic Sable for Watercolors and Princeton Series' Heritage synthetic sable brushes.

Obviously you should look into stuff yourself to find what sounds best to you, but hopefully that gives you a start.

Are you saying that this miraculous new invention allows me to thin my paints?
What is this madness?

>but for the most part the downside is that an Escoda Versatil is going to hold less and wont be as "perfect" in shape. Does that matter much to us? In my opinion, no.

It matters even more for us because we use such a small scale. A brush imperfection can be as large as your entire miniature's face, which won't matter to someone painting on a canvas.

The best kolinsky in the world is only $10 to $15 for the sizes that miniatures need (0 to 2) so there's no excuse not to get the best of the best.

Thank you. I have said it before that this mini has been a bit of an experiment an learning process so I'm very hammy how he's turned out. I've tried to keep posting regularly because people asked for updates but to be honest the pictures have been so similar each time it's felt like spamming.

Yes the guts will be glossed, so will his mouth, eyes and horns. Everything else will be matte, same as my plaguebearers.

Thanks, mates.

>there's no excuse not to get the best of the best.
Moral objections. Technically Kolinsky products are banned in the United States, but companies like Windsor & Newton have filled the necessary paperwork to sell them in the states. Maybe that user has problems with something like that. Maybe he has problems with the fact that the animals are harvested just for brushes. I don't know what kind of person he is, so I told him what the best shit possible is, but also gave him the closest approximates.

Also, it's imperfections relative to Kolinsky sable brushes. It's not like we're talking about Crayola brushes. At worst you're looking at a generic red sable brush's quality.

youtube.com/watch?v=DJ9w9J7gfJI
New Duncan video.

Obviously I haven't commented every single time (mostly because I miss a lot of threads these days), but I try to when I do see them. I hate seeing people post shit they've poured their heart and soul into, only for it to be completely ignored.

I have to ask, though; do you ever walk past that thing, or just look at it, and think "God almighty, what have I done"? Like a surge of genuine discomfort washes over you

Haha nah I like him, he's a happy little dude, not his fault he's ugly and wants to eat everyone.

this, I would avoid. it almost never looks good.

Keep trying you might get to table top standard soon if you learn to layer.

Didnt clean the mold lines because I was testing with a pose you knob. She wasn't painted or even primed.

Did a little more work.

1/2

2/2

>Glottkin goes for 80£
>just want the two riders, Otto and Ethrac
>go on bitsandkits
>they cost 30£
Yo this is some bullshit

Hey /wip/
I want to ask some questions.
I need rhinos for a tournament coming up.

Should I make counts as rhinos for my noise marines, with bluetooth speakers and plasticard? To bulk up a model 1957 chevy I found, that is too thin. I was thinking of basing it, and giving it "Anti grav" plating instead of wheels, and putting weapons on the sides.

Or should I make proxy counts as rhinos, that make an effort to actually look like a rhino?

Or should I just paint up speakers and use them as drop pods?

I swear an user made this exact joke in a thread here only a couple of days ago. Is Dunc browsing Veeky Forums now?

Actual useful? Im tired of snapping little bits of a miniature because I apply to much pressure with my knife, old models arent a problem, but the new ones sure are.
I also lost all my garg heads and weapons and now have flying corpses with wings :^)

they're probably just using scrapped product ideas

Wtf is this?

Thermosaw.

If I had to guess I'd say a hot wire cutter

GW, you cheeky fucks.

Interesting video with multiple pro painters giving their views on multiple questions. Interestingly enough, their advice differ a lot from one guy to another.

youtu.be/BA9X2BVOgPM

youtu.be/DJ9w9J7gfJI
At first I thought they were gonna be selling terrain water but then I realized it was a bit of an April Fool's Day meme.

I used to love Lincoln Logs!

15 quid a guy seems pretty typical Gw pricing to me

It took me until the one and a half thin layers part to realize that this was a joke. Take from that what you want.

Tbh, while it is a joke product, I do like the bottle design they used.

I have a book to sell to you.