Wip - Work in Progress General

War-ter edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

Previous Thread

Other urls found in this thread:

dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/222864.page
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

So what's the best way to fix up bubble hell resin models?

Liquid green stuff is pretty awful

Gotta break up the grey somehow. One more to go

WIP for my biker chaplain conversion. I think I am at the point where I need to use GS to fill in the obvious gaps. I need to connect the left arm to the PF, and the right elbow could probably use some also.

Right arm, and shoulder are magnetized for posing. I haven't drilled the bolters, or taken off all the mold lines yet.

I haven't GS'd things before so this will be my first model. My plan is to make an "elbow" connecting the left arm and power fist, as well as making the right "elbow" more solid.

Any thoughts so far?

Another angle, showing the missing "elbow".

Any one know of a good forum with high quality painters? I'm looking to become competitive and start ending Crystal brushes.

All the pieces

>ending
Kek
Dunno if there's any maybe around town? you'll have better luck at conventions

Wow iPhone is a shit
I meant to say Dunno if there's any, looked around to find any in you're town or any pros in your area

Crozius looks terrible.

Make it way smaller and shorter so he can wield it with one hand.

Otherwise it looks good but the back wing is too much unless it's ravenwing

I'm not able to travel sadly. That's why I'm looking for online resources. Most I'm finding are tabletop quality plebs who don't even know how to layer. Drybrush + ink = 10 stars!

I am probably going to do something with the back wing, I just don't know what yet I haven't spend much time on it.

The crozius is from the B@C box, you think I should shorten it? I could take 1/3 or 1/2 off of it, but I am not confident in my sculpting skills to make the snipped end look very good.

I could do something like this, remove the section in black?

>That's why I'm looking for online resources.

Find Natalya.

For those still looking for a real Johnny of their own, this item closes in about ten hours. I'd buy it myself if I didn't already have all the models in this lot.

This has already gone up 6 bucks. I presume someone here is trying their hand at winning this? I was gonna buy this for a friend, but I'm not gonna crank the price up for someone else from /wip/.

almost ready to paint. Got to fill in the gaps in the claw connection and do a little putty work but it's getting there.

I need more free time. Took me the last 5 months to paint these.

Re posting Hey guys I finished this character a while ago and while I'm generally happy with the paintjob as it's at the level I'm currently capable of painting at I do feel that due to the large segments of flat white armour it comes off as a little bland. Just to be clear, because I know the paintjob doesn't really show it, the armour isn't just flat white, it's been layered with different light greys up from bleach bone with a white highlight. But anyway I was hoping you guys might be able to point me to some simple tricks for weathering and battle damage.

The other thing I wanted an opinion on is how to get a more faded looking yellow on cloth for a Mordheim war-band I'm working on. I was thinking a layer of screaming skull on a white base coat and then building the yellow up with thin layers of the Yriel Yellow wash. No idea if this would work though so any input would be great.

This is great, 3d printed?

Looking pretty good user, I can't wait to see how the next 987 turn out.

Dont let others cuck you, if you want, buy it mate

Those are beautiful user, I especially like your blues.

>Took me the last 5 months to paint these.

Ahahaha, looks like we're in the same boat then. I also tend to paint my guys really slowly (took me almost a month to finish a unit of plague marines), but mostly due to the lack of free time (can't really paint every day).

Catching up on my backlog of nasty boys
I'll add in a better lit picture with some of my kit bashed baby boys

I already have two, I don't need another one. I'll let another user have one this time around.

...

Same for me. I can't paint every day

1. Because I don't feel like it every day, and if I don't want to paint, I'll either do a shit rushed job or a shit job full stop.
2. I have other shit to do.

Standard green stuff? Some other kind of putty?

Resin

Thanks

Yeah I get to paint at most 2-3 evenings a week.

Same here. But mostly due to being a lazy fuck. Almost finished my 2nd squad of plague marines today (just need to do the freehand on the champion's shield).

God, it's been a long 2 weeks.

Funny story, the skeletor guy was actually a result of me not being able to do some basic math.
>didn't count his bits right
>realises he's out of bits
>only a single shoulder pad left, and some plastic marine parts
Yeah, let's just slap a skull on the guy and paint him, I'm sure no one'll notice.

Particularly blessed with a delicious flesh rotting boon from father Nurgle, I see. How lucky!

My Death Gaurd are on hold currently- I'm waiting for the new models to come out and see what happens with them.

I've got my Possessed to build and kitbash with Plaguebearer parts, so that'll be fun and my termie squad which is waiting to be primed.

...

He doesn't even resemble him

Which colors did you use to get that green?

Working on my custom squad of dudes for Shadow War: Armageddon. They're Skitarii, but I'm adding knives and pouches and stuff, magnetizing all the guns and heads and giving the Alpha a Guard flamer backpack because I had one spare and it looks different.

Inspired by this guy's scheme:
dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/222864.page

1. Vallejo Green Grey
2. Wash with a 50/50 mix of Agrax Earthshade and Seraphin Sepia
3. Highlight wih HEAVILY watered down Green Grey
4. Edge highlights with Green Grey + Ushabti Bone (or some other bone white)

I also apply some Sepia here and there, to make it more yellowish in places.

TTS+1/10

These are a really good tabletop standard bro, kudos.

cot dam that is sex

...

Got a lot of guff for using balsa in this, last thread. I say it looks fine, it's not like I'm Michelangelo or anything

Any suggestions for specific brushes that work best for edge highlighting with the side of the brush?

It looks like someone glued wood to a fucking model, now stop being a faggot and trying to self justify your mistakes. You fucked up, it looks bad, man the fuck up and fix it or stop acting like a woman

The TS symbol on the Rhino hatch - is that freehand or a decal/ transfer?

Clean your place

>Got a lot of guff for using balsa in this, last thread. I say it looks fine, it's not like I'm Michelangelo or anything

I don't get it. It's just a glued, unprimed model, what's wrong with it? I mean, I can see a few gaps here and there, but it's not that bad.

Little late to fix it, unless you have suggestions.

I can tell it's wood, sure. Pretty sure I should leave it that way so I can trigger your autistic snowflake ass with the ~200 shekels worth of kits that had to die to bring this into being, too.

U mad?

100% freehand

If you zoom in a bit on this 'wip' pic you can still see parts of the circles I made with a pair of compasses.

Are you Wraithknight retard? You seem like him. I really hope you are as well.

>reposts image just to tell people how mad you are for getting your feefees hurst
>"U mad?"

Really makes me think

Thanks for the laugh user.

I was under the impression that this was an in progress thread, and was wondering if anyone shared my thinking, which is 'eh, it ain't that bad', after seeing paint on it.

And no, I've never owned a wraithknight. Too Gundam for me.

>want to make an plasticard easter egg for mini-competition at my LGS
>end up with something like this after whole day

wtf is this

ork drop pod

also that is lovely user, but needs more what are they called? the nubbles you made with greenstuffsorry english isnt my first language

I have 2 reference pictures.
1. Does anyone have a picture of a crater caused by an explosion in a winter environment? (Something like, finland during the winter war)
2. Whats the most natural right handed way to hold a gun with 1 hand? (The other hand is holding a flag)
Thank you.

rivets i guess. I prepared tons of them, but I'm already tired after spending whole day building this.
Need to put some more of platings here and there, but it's mostly done.

supossed to be an orky easter egg, but ended up as ork drop pod, or some idol of gork (or mork). Gonna look fun on shelf, and maybe as an objective marker at LGS.

Just Google "snow explosion crater" and there are loads of results.

Could you please post all your stuff, it's really nice to see and I didn't save it last time.

Sure, I'll take some pics tomorrow and dump them all in the next thread (or in this one, if it's still there).
I don't have that much painted stuff anyway:
Painted:
- 2 units of 7 plague marines
- 2 rhinos
- 3 nurgle terminators
- nurgle dreadnought

Unpainted:
- 5 nurgle bikers
- nurgle lord on a bike
- 5 havocs
- 5 obliterators
- 10 nurgle cultists

So yeah, still a long way to go, but I'll upload what I have.

As a sidenote, I'm also painting a dwarf warband for mordheim in my free time. I try to paint them to a higher standard than my CSM, since I want the to have that little extra bit of character.
Here's a guy I painted a couple weeks ago.

I'll try to post some wips regularly.

Solid work user. Not much else to say really.

It's a bit noticeable. You might be able to fill it on with greenstuff or some sort of resin? The balsa wood will take the paint differently and look weird once everything is finished

>Got a lot of guff for using balsa in this
>using balsa in this

Can someone explain to me what's happened? I'm genuinely curious.
What's wrong with that model? It just looks like it's been poorly assembled and then drybrushed in places.

Post conversions.

Here's a sort of 'heavy metal priest' I did with a pile of Guard bits.

The basla isn't cut straight and you can see the wood grain on it.

I think he's referring to using bits of balsa wood to fit in the thunderfire cannon he's got on there.

Frankly if you scrape a bit of greenstuff onto the surface it's impossible to tell under the paint.

Or just use plasticard. But it looks okay to me.

...

Ooooh, ok, thanks, I see now. I assumed that was just some warped resin, and got confused when he mentioned balsa.
But yeah, scraping some liquid greenstuff, or hell, even a few layers of paint should fix that.

Any tips on how you painted the gold? I've been struggling with painting gold lately.

Have you tried the gold paint?

...

>not mixing real gold flakes with alcohol
>not painting your miniatures with actual gold

And there I thought you had class user.

>Not making your miniature out of gold and painting it gold
Get on my level

Man, that was one of my very early wips, but yeah, the recipe is correct.

Fucking solid

Not my miniatures but I need some advice from painters with a good understanding of colour.

Which type of Tyranid scheme would compliment a Black Legion army? Say if I had the two in a cabinet together as my two armies?

>Not electroplating your minis
PLEBS ALL OF YOU

Getting ready to paint my first minis, a squad of Fire Warriors, and want to make sure I have all the paints I need-

I've primed them black, and am planning to use Abaddon Black for the soft armor, Castellan Green for the plates, Sotek Green for the sept highlights, Nuln Oil for shade, Evil Sunz for the lenses on the visor, with Dawnstone for various straps and belts and such. Does that sound like a solid color scheme? Should I use a different shade, and/or do I need some layers for my castellan green body armor?

>Which type of Tyranid scheme would compliment a Black Legion army? Say if I had the two in a cabinet together as my two armies?
Black Legion is black and gold mainly.
I've seen armies that used orange as accent and this one you posted has so much red at first I thought they were Word Bearers.
So it depends on the accents you set, cause black and gold is pretty neutral.
Black goes with everything and gold is either gonna harmonize or contrast, but you can't 'clash' with just one color, i.e. the gold.

Long-winded of saying hard to tell without knowing how you painted your army, if you did something specific to your force with it..

>Should I use a different shade, and/or do I need some layers for my castellan green body armor?
Sounds solid.
As a rule of thumb for army painting I like to have at least three shades for each color.
Could be three colors layered on top, or a base color washed and then re highlighted with the base again.
I mention this because your list sounds a bit short, i.e. like you are just painting base colors.

For the black parts I'd consider using a grey like eshin grey for example to set some highlights here and there.

Food for though.

Paint a test mini and see how you like the scheme that's always the best way to get a feel for it.

Where is yellow user with his imperial fists helm id like an update on the tutorial you got going on

>As a rule of thumb for army painting I like to have at least three shades for each color.
Sorry for leaving the crucial part out here.
Three colors are my magic number, because I can use a base, shade and highlight then.

you mean me ?

Thanks for the advice! I was looking at guides and discussion, and realized my current plan was really lacking in the layering department. So maybe one lighter layer for the black (like the eshin grey you mentioned), and a lighter one for the castellan? What green layer would you recommend? Elysian or Loren Forest, maybe?

I'm super new to the whole Citadel paints color scheme, so I'm trying to figure out what colors I should try to fit each of those roles, generally going for the forest-green armor look.

Are you the guy who got sick of everyone being retards who can't into yellow?

Well they're black legion scheme (easiest way to explain). So silver and whites in there too but on better painted models I've tried not to highlight the gold with silver as that's good to do when silver is already used for metals right? I was thinking early GW Kraken might go well with the greys and red, but I'd like to do a scheme that really pops as I've really regretted going with black and gold for my first project due to the difficulty and dullness.

nope, must be someone else then

>lighter one for the castellan? What green layer would you recommend? Elysian or Loren Forest, maybe?
sound both like solid choices.
GW did a paint chart with some suggestions on recipes a while back.
This is the best pic I could find.
These are just suggestions, and should limit you in any way in the choices you make but as a quick reference it might come in handy.

I don't have many of the new paints yet, so you should probably trust the chart more than me on this one.

Oooh, exactly what I needed! Many thanks!

Are 2mm magnets good enough for magnetizing infantry like Skitarii, assuming N52? Doing a custom Skitarii team for Newcromunda and I want EVERYTHING swappable down to the belt pouches.

Also, subassemblies. Legs+base on their own, torso/robe as one bit and the arms separate good enough? Previously I was a scrub and painted them all together, although as they were my 1st models I don't think it made things much worse.

Not the guy you're talking to, but also a newbie. This could be translated to pretty much anything, right?

Saved, thanks user

Which imperial fists user? I only know of the guy who uses washes for everything.

>I was thinking early GW Kraken might go well with the greys and red, but I'd like to do a scheme that really pops as I've really regretted going with black and gold for my first project due to the difficulty and dullness.
Kraken is a solid choice.
The bone white should be a nice contrast.
Leviathan would be a similar contrast.

Strictly speaking you could do some even more extreme things with them too.
I find that pictures of tropical fish or poison frogs are a great source of inspiration for these kind of color schemes.

Imagine an orange army with neon blue patterns on their carapace for example.

Crusty fingers with the flash gitz yellow fists helmets

Thanks for that. I've never been a fan of neon colours as they tend to look either over contrasted or done by airbrush, but the image of tropical fish works well when imagining Tyranids.

>done by an airbrush
I love this meme how you poorfags have to insult airbrush work because you can't afford one

inb4 'i like using a brush' 'it looks better' 'airbrushing is cheating' 'people over do airbrushing'

Not arguments.

Novice here...what's the best method for applying water decals? When I apply mine the clear outer edge stays "fogged up" making it look like a shitty sticker. Tutorials I've watched leave the edge completely translucent so it actually looks painted on

Sorry for triggering you, I meant to say overdone by airbrush. As in the cringy lighting shade effects we always see.

i've gotten real good at painting space wolves! any flaws?