WIP - Work In Progress General

The easiest way to fix mold alighment problems is to cut the peice in half along the line if at all possible, then put it back together. This looks possible on the right one.

If you are lazy, reducing both sides until flat will work to, but you end up with a slightly smaller part than before, this will work for the large part cause this delta is not noticeable.

The best way is a combination of both reduction and addition. Get some miliput, a file, and sand paper and go to town.

Ive had to restore a rib cage on a butchered hive tyrant mold, looks good now.

Better chance of finding an answer

Cutting in half? That sounds dicey, though I suppose it makes sense. I don't know if a normal hobby/exacto knife will be good enough. I might have to get one of those hobby saws.

Will normal Greenstuff work? I don't have miliput, though I suppose I could get some. However, I'm embarrassingly bad when it comes to putty.

look for green ones, maybe

Spoop

gs and scraping if it'll work, there might be spots where it wont, kinda hard to tell in the pics

Hi guys. I dont come to /wipg/ at all, but I figured some people here might be able to help

I'm looking for a bunch of minis or tutorials for making flesh somewhat merged with technology. I guess biopunk would be a word to describe it? Essentially stuff like flayed skin or lumps of severed body parts or some weird zombies with bits of technology implanted in them

Any ideas?

Ayup lads, it's me again. I'm getting a chunky little Rotbringers Sorcerer in the mail for conversion into Dark Mechanicum. Some questions: what is the figure made out of? The store page doesn't say.
Secondly, I was thinking about removing the face and adding the face of a Princeps from either the Sicarian Ruststalkers or Infiltrators.
What do you think would look better?

wow thats horrendous, which caster was it?

Who do you think? Z. What surprises me actually is that this is rather fantastic quality. It's hardly perfect, but there are no major mold slips and anything particularly bad isn't going to be visible.

I'm one of those noobs who's been constantly asking questions. First batch of minis are cut, cleaned, assembled, based and primed, and I've finally started putting paint on. I'm making some use of this video tutorial:
youtube.com/watch?v=ZGPFn1CSwvU
Except that I'm using abaddon black for the soft armor and castellan green for the armored plates. In this video, they paint the soft armor, then apply shade, then paint the plates. Should I follow this sequence as well, or should I paint my plates before adding shade? I'm thinking they may have done shade before plates due to painting the plates white?

Right face. It actually looks like a face, and could possibly fit under the hood.

closest thing i can think of is warhammertv's cult mechanicus videos. youtube.com/watch?v=_sQ18Ct816E

generally you always shade first unless you are doing the drybrush method of adding highlights, which you shouldn't do on tau. so yes, apply shade first and then clean up any messy areas and add edge highlights.

oh nvm. the only times you do shades separately is if you are using a different shade for different parts and you don't want them to mix.

In the tutorial I'm going off of, they use different shades for the two regions, but they specifically do base->shade for the soft armor, and shade->base for the plates. I was wondering if I should follow that same pattern, given that my color scheme differs.

Short answer: yes
Usually you go:
>base coat
>shade
>reapply/ neaten up basecoat, leaving the shade in the recesses
>layer on raised areas
>highlights

Paint recessed parts first, then raised parts. Cloth is below armor so paint cloth first.

Okay, so I should do my castellan before my shade, unlike the video where they did shade and then white basecoat. Thank you!

Another question: I primed black, and I honestly cannot see a difference in the areas that I proceeded to paint with abaddon. Is it still worthwhile to paint my black areas more-black, or should I just leave them at the primer color until highlight-time?

Me and the Ladz came first place in our April Fools contest, thanks for all the advice and kind words, guys!

Hold it against the light. Black primer has a different finish than abaddon black.

Also, painting white is always a bit different.

Thank you very much!

I have never cleaned resin and I have never suffered any ill effect from not doing it.

>too afraid to buy paint brushes
>too afraid to buy paint
>too afraid to mar models with shit paint job
Why did I buy into this fucking hobby

It doesn't really sound like you have done.

Saw this on Facebook, i know who you are now user...

I have almost 1500 of an AOS army and 2500 of a 40k army. The 40k army is more than half painted, but I did that several years ago in high school. I haven't painted in well over 5-6 years.

Buy cheap models, citadel starter set, and simple art brush

Dont forget to thin your paints

Just start somewhere. It gets easier.

>Paints
>Brushes
>Too afraid to buy

Buy them online then.

>too afraid to mar models with shit paint job

Well... you have to start somewhere...

on the left are my Brothers first models painted... 2016 on the right is something he painted this year 2017.

He's still learning but has made great progress.

Hello friend.

>too afraid to ruin yer plastic men
whew.gif

Get help, user.

congrats, user! i've been watching your progress since you first started posting about it. happy to see it dome!

I'm about to hate painting (more) gold.

>£219 for 3 landraiders

Wew lad, just buy recasts and save yourself shitloads!

All the reviews I've seen for the recasted Land Raiders have always been terrible.

Conversion packs are fine, but it's cheaper to buy the LR with the kit from them versus a regular land raider and a recast conversion kit.

Thanks for posting all your stuff mate, love it, sorry I couldn't comment at the time but had to got to work.

When Death Guard 2.0 come out I'll be using your scheme for sure

>its cheaper

Buy 3 landraiders from element games or triple helix. Buy 3 conversion kits from china. I can 100% guarantee that it'll be a significant saving.

Honestly I kind of want to support FW?

>after the Magnus rules

some dark eldar stuff maybe

Support your wallet m8, then you can buy even more plastic crack

I like TS but I give zero fucks about Primarch rules.

Get their mouths, turn em upside down and they look alot better.

Z forgeworld recasts tend to be 50/50

>Magnus rules

That bad?

Vargheists are finally done (or as done as they're gonna get, I'm sick of them). Started these dudes 6 months ago and then didn't touch them cause I've been painting 40k stuff.

Now I just have 20 skeletons, 3 spirit hosts, Mannfred, a zombie dragon with vampire lord and 10 dire wolves to do and the death stuff I own will be finished... (*cries*)

Has anyone had much experience working with Tartaros armour, more specifically Deathshroud? I wanted to use them as the basis for 40k terminators but would standard 40k termie shoulder pads fit on Tartaros shoulders?

My friend is making recast. And i asked him to redpill me on toxic resin. He said yellow one is toxic, chinese faggots are using cheapes resin with fucking mercury in it.
If you have questions about recast ask away.
Only if you use normal terminator hands with them. Tartaros shoulders are smaller.

I wanted to use the 40k DG conversion kit to make nurglite termies with scythes, so I'm not sure if the shoulderpads will get in the way what with all the spikes and general boxiness of the DG termie torsos.

>what's the figure made out of

Metal, surprisingly. They never made a shitcast one, which is a good thing.

Since the kickstarter arrived, been working on Lobotomy

Looking to make my own washes out of the paints I have (mix of old Citadel and Vallejo Game Colour). Does anyone know of any worthwhile wash/glaze medium?

I know of Lahmian Medium but preferably something that gives me more at a reasonable price. I'd need many many pots of Lahmian otherwise.

There's a million YouTube vids that are gonna help you more than a block of text on here

Do any of you anons know how to make the flat panels of vehicles interesting? I am making my own taurox standin and planning either a arvus lighter or avenger strike fighter. However I am afraid that they will be too flat.

Here is a old pic of the taurox, the sides are onboard but I don't have a picture.

What to do, I can't seem to make it even a tenth as good as my normal work and every time i add or remove more it just seems to get worse.

Should I just give up and hope for inspiration to strike at a later time or keep fiddling with it?

It might just be that my bit-box is too exhausted to offer any got pieces for further work.

Well done ya git!

Just buy the Retributor spray already. The follow Duncan's tutorial on custodes.

I assume you are trying to orkyfy it?

One big thing that it is missing is the shielding. That is a big opportunity to add some character to the thing and make it your own.

Aside from that there is nothing wrong with is as far as I can see. Just seems a little basic at the moment since the only modifications are orky fieldrepairs.
Adding a spiky ramming ram to the front it's great because it makes zero sense on an artillery tank or maybe a makeshift bulldozer blade that could act as addition shielding or something like that would do the trick.
Maybe a new copula for the driver or some rinky dink munitions storage would be a good addiiton too.

Looks like you have made a good start.
I would recommend adding details to break up large areas.

This allows you to work in more detail when painting and gives a more realistic feeling.

You could add small rivets across some of the armored plates. Some weapon damage such as small arms dents.

If you have spare bits, you can mess around to see what looks good as well.

Pic related might help. Your build reminds me of the Saxon.

Actually, mine was finecast.

If nothing else panel lines are always good.
GW basically did that with the old Rhino front plate too. Just two square armor plates with firing slits and you got details.
Ventilation slits or exhaust piping could work too. Adding stowage is also an option.

>Finecast works so bad for some sculpts GW secretly went back to metal
I want to believe

>mine was finecast

That model was never made into finecast. If you have a resin one it's a recast.

thanks, I will likely post more about this soon. Tonight I intend to use bondo car putty to smooth out all my panels and doors. After that I will sand it and start trying to find rivets and stuff to use on it.

Bone colored Necrons.

Yay or nay?

yay

With the right contrasts and different coloured plates n' shit sure, but "dunk em in bone, wash 'em brown and call it a day" No.

Bone, not really, ceramic would look cooler.

howling griffon needs a bit more work on the black highlights, but I'll cross that bridge when I get to the backpacks

I did just find a russ dozer blade and This baby in my second bit bx

But I'd really hate to ruin both.

>Was actually fooled by the thumbnail
Well damn, user, you got me there.

Did a dry fit with a trukk engine armour, big shoota and dozer blade.

Add some big jagged plasticard teef to the dozer, some Grots having a fight on the flat bit and jobs a good 'un.

I've just started with the hobby.
>My paints become washes when I try to thin them
>I leave zones unpainted all the time
>Shades seem to dirty up things instead of creating a shading effect.
>I've failed at highlight everytime.
>My minis smell of strawberry because I'm using bublegum instead of blu tack.

How far am I from living off as a commision painter?

Don't thin the pot user.
Put a couple drops on a palate and thin it with a drop of acrylic medium, or water, there.
That way you can control how thin it gets and how much is on the brush.

Only put the shades into recesses, then clear up small excess on the flat areas.

Anyone have a tutorial for painting pristine white marble? I'm not sure how to achieve this effect.

Well i just jammed on a fuel tank and a bigass smokestack near the engine in And considering adding one of those ring mounted big shootas from the trukk on top of the driver side.

And of courde a small gun shield to the big shoota, fer safety!

>some Grots having a fight on the flat bit and jobs a good 'un.
OH! I do have a old loader and targetter grot lying around... and the damn shell fits the muzzle perfectly.

youtu.be/ACT-RNk2GkY

Looking forward to watching more "advanced" tutorials like that.
Really like that blade effect where it's a bit darker than usual. The WD Eavy Metal guide made it look like a bright glass sword.

copied from a WIP thread quite some time ago:
See pic related
>basically it's:

>rakarth
>pallid wych
>put water all over the surface, then do agrax lines
>more agrax on the lines, then smooth the borders with thinned rakarth
>very thin agrax to mark the lines
>highlight the lines with pallid wych and white scar
>white scar was on the light areas
>gloss varnish at the end if you want to

Progress on the canonness. Critique would he nice because I feel something's off. I AM going to brighten up the cloak a bit.

damn, seems I saved the thumbnail rather than the full image...

2/3

Also, trying to figure out what I should color the inside of the pad.

I think the Corset needs to be a different colour, as it is now it just blends in with the armour too much

Snagged this for 20 Dollarydoos inc postage. How'd I do?
>tfw don't even play 40k
Should still be fun to paint to practice.

I was thinking of that. Color suggestions?

I think black would be a safe choice

I'm not sure the current colour combination works all that well. The Brass and grey work, and the brass and red, but soemthing about all three together jsut seems to clash.

>Snagged this for 20 Dollarydoos inc postage. How'd I do?
Pretty fucking spectacular.
Even a single box of cadians is more expensive these days and it seems you got an old 20 model box instead of a newer 10 per box.

So yeah. If you get an HQ squad or convert a few hero characters you got a legal army.

Nice! Never painted any imperial units, mostly Nids and Orks. Should be fun.
>HQ squad...legal army
Holy shit really? Neat! Might have to scrounge around for the rules. Considering I have about 2k of Orks and the same of Nids.

I only got them originally because I wanna convert them to gunners of Nuln as a Mordheim warbands.