WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=4UNAjik9S80
kjmagnetics.com/Default.asp
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Making progress on my lord. Still a long ways to go. Also, sorry for shit lighting. in a hurry to leave the house, wanted to toss this up before I went.

>Any conversion ideas on how I could turn a lascannon heavy weapon team to look like a ZIs-3 style gun? I'd bascially want to know how id make the gun shields, the towing parts at the back, and the wheels, and for the barrel Id just supply the lascannon that comes with the kit

Why convert? What you ask for already exists!

>those pierced robo-nips
>that debonair strut
>pauldrons
>those sweet sweet robo-nips

I like it

>oop rare as fuck and expensive
Eeehhh I don't think so

>Ordered a Primed and Assembled Khemerian Warsphinx because you REALLY wanna do that maulerfeind conversion

Cost me a hundred bux... what do I do with the rest of the sphinx?

cool conversion, but you seriously need to thin your fucking paints bro

Fleshlight

does anyone have anytips on getting highlights as straight and clean as this?
i have a problem with my highlights being uneven in terms of line work and cant seem to find a way to fix it

It's called brush control. It comes from experience gained while painting.

>Every time I've had time to prime it's been raining profusely for the past two weeks
STOP IT

Hell naw.

anyone have any tips for disassembling models? Specifically the heads.I bought some chaos space marines second hand off ebay so I'm not exactly sure what glue they used. Here's a shitty pic if you can tell what kinda glue they used.

Working on Guild Ball ATM. Started with the Brewer's Guild. These guys are normally done with tartan on their outfits, but I don't feel very confident in my ability to do that. And I kind of like how it turned out anyway just with the solid yellow

and my mascot. This little guy was fun to paint. I don't ever paint animals much.

Put both elbows on the table and rest your dominant hand on the base of the model while you paint. This will make your hands less shaky.

aaaand I'm working on this dude right now. I'm used to painting Ogre Kingdoms guys so this dude feels right at home. I'm hoping to get that beer spray to look right by the end of it

See
Also, check out Warmaster Duncans videos. He does highlighting on edges really well. Basically it's good brush control and drybrushing very dry, very thin. I reckon you should practise by priming your scrap sprues and drybrushing their edges

Here's a teaser wip.
Just gotta finish base, then il post finished shots.

Ausbro?

Noice.

Plastic glue, so you'll Essentially be breaking the plastic itself apart, not the glue.

>store chinacast in soap water
>crack lid
>let the smell of chemical death pass
>scrub bits I need
>replace lid
>continue project

Am I doing it right?

That's pretty metal

Brutal

Also I got the eyes done

It's coming along swell bro, keep it up

As others have stated.

1. Brush control
2. the perfect amount of paint on your brush, your brush has to be wet with paint, but so much that the bristles are soaked with them. If you have too much paint your paint will blob out through the brustles and it won't be so clean.

2a. Get a sharp decent paintbrush, I used winsor and newton sable S. 7
2b. USE. A. WET. PALETTE. get paint on your brush, then wipe the excess off on a kitchen towel but use the same motion duncan does to keep the sharp tip and lightly, and gently pull the side of the brush (not the tip) across the edge of the model. If the paint blobs over and you don't have a thin line on the edge, you used too much paint.

It's probably plastic glue, which has fused the head and the torso together, which means you have to tear the head off which could damage it.

If it's super glue, which it probably isn't, pop it in the freezer for about 30 minutes and then just snap it off, as the superglue, which bonds, doesn't fuse, will become very brittle

Your guild ball stuff looks cool, the hair, imo, is too yellow on this dude, blonde hair doesn't look like that, Duncan actually did a good tutorial on "blonde" hair, as in reality blonde doesn't mean nuclear yellow, it's generally "sandy / bone" which in the case of this dude, bleeds into his very yellow apron. Otherwise good job.

very cool, superb!

Thanks! Though I don't really intend on keeping them head anyways, what might be the best way to just tear off the head?

If you don't want the head, just use your spru-clippers to snip it off as close to the torso without damaging it, then (I personally) would dig the rest out *carefully* with a hobby knife

Well I have flat-nose pliser with bigass teeth in my hobby toolbox for when shit needs torn apart.

I heard you're not supposed to use clippers/cutters for resin. If so, what are you supposed to use?

sharp knife.

It's fine.

Watch this Forge World video on working with Resin.

youtube.com/watch?v=4UNAjik9S80

Quick dry fit before I start doing shadows, bruises and details.

>all that extra resin on those parts
Jesus fucking Christ. At least the channels aren't everywhere to the point of losing detail like Finecrap resin but I've never seen resin blocks like that before.

Is this just washes over white? I like it a lot.

Leather straps a bit small, Bobby is truly best primarch if he represents his dad so well.

Washes over white, pink, blue and yellow.

I think I'm starting to get the idea behind highlighting. Good thing I have 300 of these models to practice with

Mephiston WIP. It's only at the basecoat stage.

I did his armour in Tamiya clear red for a blood soaked appearance. Specifically it was retributor gold, purple wash, Tamiya clear red ( thinned with rubbing alcohol).

It's pewter so I'm probably going to strip it and redo it because it's thick and messy. But is the general idea alright?

What's the the pool of blood?

Local shaman: "I am growing stronger"

If you're really set on bloody armour, I'd say do the "flayed" parts bloddy and the flat panels clean.

You're overusing the blood effect making it lose impact

Also that converted arm looks like a bag of burning shit, at least take a actual marine arm and fit it, use the green stuff sparingly.

Good god the mold lines on the WH Fantasy Zombie Dragon are fucking evil.

Man. All those old BA and DA characters really need new models one of these days.

Assuming you are the one who originally asked Anvil Industry makes these field gun platforms.

Help, how would I go around painting the same dark blue-green armor on this guy?

A black to turquoise blend. There's no easy way to paint it beyond slowly mixing colours.

Made a little more progress on the 1000pt Warband. I built and magnetized 3 more dudes, got distracted half way through and magnetized my raptors, magnetized a few more weapons, and got the contemptor (stand in hellbrute) off the sprue and fiddled with magnetizing the guns, which worked pretty well.

By Sunday, I still need to:
>build and magnetize 3 more dudes
>finish another terminator and make 2 more combi-plasma
>glue the contemptor body
>build and magnetize the fist
>build a crypt Flayer aka chaos spawn

My rhinos were delayed, so I'll be borrowing rhinos from my SoB army to stand in. However, once my 1000pts is built, I can start painting squads.

I'm going to be modding/converting both a Soul Grinder and a Daemon Prince to be more Nurgley

Anyone have any advice or pointers for using green-stuff effectively, or any examples where you might have done this before?

This will be the first time I use green-stuff to this extent, rather than plugging gaps or covering up conversion mismatches

Whats your magnetizing process?

They look like little flatulent peeps.

Does anyone know any good minis I could convert into Grammaton Clerics? Want to make a Shadow War team of them with the Harlequin rules.

Incubi darkness, kabalite green, sybarite green. With dark blue or black washes.

Look at Dark Eldar Incubi or Dark Eldar Kabalite Warriors for an example.

HF recently released a bundle deal for some of their figures.
All basically wearing bodysuits.
Designs inspired by the Underworld deathdealers and a riff on Deadpool.
Not exactly what you are going for but good models, that should mesh well with eldar and most of them use pistols iirc.

The only other thing I can think of with guys wearing suits are gangster minis from Foundry, Copplestone and Northstar games, they'll look pretty out of place next to Eldar minis I think.

You could try and see if you can find something useful from Infinity, but there are only a few models that wear their equivalent of what would be a suit.

I just found that video about doing blonde hair. I may try to touch it up to get that effect. I could probably pull it off without making it look too weird.

They're not going next to Eldar, I just thought that I'd use the rules for the Harlequins as it's closest to their fighting style. Those copplestone ones would be OK with a headswap and different guns if I removed the ties, thanks.

I'm about to take my first dip into this hobby after watching and reading hours of material. I'm starting small with just a few cheap skeletons and Orcs and some reaper bones minis I have lying around. Should be fun.

You will be proud of your first model despite it looking like shit. You'll improve until you will be disappointed by your models despite them looking good.

Just paint and paint and paint, you will improve naturally. Look at videos if you need to learn advanced techniques like blending and non metallic metal.

Just remember, one thick coat is better and multiple thin coats and drink your paint water.

Does anyone have more pictures of these Red Talons? Fucking beautiful.

Replace eversor head with marine.

>Red Talons
I found this, also on Veeky Forums so i assume it one of our painters.

Hey WIP, I have a question.

I keep seeing event exclusive FW minis come up in my instagram painter feed, even old ones.

Is there some secret way to get a hold of these minis without going to the events outside of paying exorbitant resale prices to touts?

Paying a not-greedy person that's going?

Unrelated: I have the same cutting mat that you do. Had to do a double take to make sure it wasn't my work area.

Join a Facebook community, don't be a cunt, ask someone who's going politely and pay up front.

I've been out of GW for a while, what is that Sergeant's head/torso from?

>normiebook

Secret/closed groups on facebook are a big part of the hobby community™ now, in the way forums like Warseer and B&C were a decade ago.

Some bargains on the trade groups too, it's like old days ebay sometimes.

I always trade on Bartertown. Great site especially since PayPal offers so many buyer protections. Got some Tomb King Tomb Guard off there for 55 dollars brand new in box

Yeah, on any of the FB pages or swap forums, as long as you Pay for Goods/Services instead of Pay Friends, you get basically all the protections of an ebay sale.

Don't see too many bad eggs either.

Where's a good place to get magnets for 40k models?

kjmagnetics.com/Default.asp
Just bout any size or shape you'll ever need

Does this colour scheme look okay? If not what should I change.

The green is far too vibrant. Tone it down a bit so it doesn't clash with the red. I'm also not too sure about the random splash fo blue; maybe save it for the gun casings?

Does this look better?

I bought some second hand Space Marines, and the dude fucked up the arms and shoulder pads. Nothing is lined up, and it they look like shit. He was quite liberal with the glue, so they're not coming apart.

What's the best way to buy just Space Marine arms?

I would tone down the blue, kinda reminds me of Captain Planet

And it's missing the base, what the fuck

Hows this? Im trying to colour wheel but I dont think its working

Direct colour wheel approach is for making highway billboards and wall-poster to compete with neon signs.

Contrasting primary colours at full saturation on a model is a recipe for disaster.

You need to work with brightness and saturation

Personally I'd recommend a Split complimentary, where either the main or then complimentary colour is lower saturation.

Here's an example.

The purple contrast with the gold,, rose accent the purple, the white add brightness without too much noise, the black calms it down.

The varied saturation and not 100% opposite base colours help make it bearable.

Trying again with a split complementary and fucked with the saturation. help

only place I put one of the colors is the eyes though. and idk where to put other colors besides the eyes

Good luck user, you can do it. It's a journey.

Already it's much less eye watering.

Again I'll defy the wisdom of the colour wheel and say the accent should always support the main colour.

So i went with a warm gold to support the red

With all these decently saturated colours it need to be brought down a little, so i wen tiwth clack undersuit and piping

Now as is shoulder/face/knees as contrasting colour gives it an action figure look so I just fucked around a little until i found something i though looked decent.

While you're just playing around never get stuck on an idea, always mess around, something great may come out of it, if not you can just go back.

How big is the difference between priming with white or black? (Or Gray)

And here i did it a tad darker with heavier shading.
I actually really like this one.

A reverse Crimson fists... Azure Boots?

Depends what your other colours are.

This here's the same colours painted over white and black primer respectively.

Reminds me of Optimus Prime and Captain Planet.

Thanks for all the help. Starting to understand this more. I think I'm going to use the one from this post for an army. Thinking of doing the chapter badge mostly black but that might take away from the blue.

Feel free to

Af for the black/blue, I used a grey, not the black so there will be stronger contrast with full on black, but you can always play around, maybe when you get good brush control you can edge the black badge with steel colour, or do the badge IN steel with black edges

SIlvery metals and blue go great together.

And always, paint don't go on minis like palletes go on pixels so YMMW

As much as I fucking hate it, facebook is THE hobby community to be in now. Any one with any skill is using the painting communities there. All the dedicated forums are full of plebs who think GW tutorials are top tier painting.

It's sad as I fucking hate facebook but I have to use a completely empty account there to interact with paints I have any respect for.

My nurgle marines. Just glued the packs on.

Can we please stop this shit? No one fucking cares that you built a stock model. Stop posting absolutely fucking nothing.

Not him but there's no need to get arsey, mate. I'd want to post about it after fannying about with that much pewter.

Metal Daemon Prince looks a bit big for the supplied 40mm base to me.

Where are the claw and tabard from?

Do you really want the thread full of nothing but group shots of people gluing backpacks to models? I sure as fuck don't. Have some goddamn standards.

>WIP thread
>Not a painting/converting thread
>big pile of meticulously stripped, cleaned and assembled troops
>Literally a work in progress
>literally showing the progression of work
Reeeee harder, sperg.

You are so unbelievably autistic holy shit.

Shut the Fuck up and let people post models they're putting together.

>stoooop posting WIP in /WIP/

Oh my days

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