/wip/ general

Help /wip/! I don't have a workspace at school and have been working on my wood dresser. Now there's a shitload of dried glue all over it. What do I do?

I've been looking for googly eyes in my house off and on since I built it on Saturday and I've come up dry.

Does anyone have a conversion guide for the no-way-in-hell-will-this-be-acknowledged-by-forgeworld version of the Mk II armor from Collected Visions? I'm a plastic loving poorfag but I own up to it and still want to make the extra effort at presenting my models properly where it counts.

Probable uses include:
>Volkite veteran/support squad, old guard legionaries who held on to their gear form the days of the solar compliance
>DIY Early Crusade Honors Centurion, for much the same reason (is their anything stopping them from buying gear on top of their MC fist+bolt pistol?)
>battle buddy for my official forgeworld MK II apothecary because I find the idea funny.

I've posted some of these before, but here is my complete Sonnia crew from Malifaux. I'm getting back into it with a brutal emissary which will be the next painted member!

Here is mine, currently working on the snek

I see those premium waifus.

Have any painted ones to share?

Me too man. I have 5 Calth/Prospero boxes of shit to paint up in Imperial Fist colours. Yellow is a goddamn nightmare.

Behold! My subpar GIMP skills!

Where'd you get those paint racks?

You're doing the Emperor's Work, son.

Not the person you asked, but you can get those generic nail polish racks off Amazon for reasonably cheap.

Not yet my man, I'm currently practicing to not screw up my waifus, material wise they are beautiful.
Look for "nail polish table rack display" in Amazon, it is one of the top searches.

give me reasons why my workspace should not also be in my room.

What do you mean? It is where you sleep? That is just toxic and disgusting.

>tfw no workspace

You can't always be at the office, user. You have to separate your work from your life. A man can do terrible things once he's lost his way.

paint and adhesive fumes

dropping CSM/DEldar bits on your bedding and having your dick spiked in the night

WIP models competing with anime figurines for shelf space

>Citadel Clippers
Why...?
>Citadel Brushes
Why...?

Well, I can provide you with a WIP of it that shows how much the guy sculpted.

I coffee table it up

How is Oyumaru or Easycast Silicone Putty as a mold for one-off/small batch of recasting/dupes?

Easycast epoxy resin is gonna be poured into the molds.

Is this fine enough for results? What if I restrict the shape of the mold into a box like what most folks normally do like with legos and stuff?

youtube.com/watch?v=a4shU7dCXUg

youtube.com/watch?v=u1Z1xwjTo-M

I used to try doing decent dupes with Milliput, but would epoxy resin cause more flash, or is it due to not clamping the mold halves tight enough by those other people?

>Citadel Brushes
You blind mate, they are Winsor and Newton Series 7 and Kolinsky Master

Hey, fuck you nigger. =^O

So what I'm seeing as far as visual ques its;
>Paneling, mostly vertical on the torso and legs
>Mk 6 or maybe 4ish if you squint for the backpack
>Gorget flairs slightly outward and has a sort-of crenelation like gap in front, as opposed to the plain guard on the Mk VIII
>Helmet looks like a Mk VII if you replaced the cheek cables with grilling and possibly narrowed the vox grille a bit
>various rivets

Did I miss anything in particular? It also looks like the legs/torso might be 3rd party but I might be imagining that.

Well done, user. What blue paints are you using here? It pops really well against the black.

Good man. It's saddening to see poor jobs on those models.

I'm a long-time user of Oyumaru and it's great for epoxy casting.

Resin, however, you need to be more careful since the reaction of mixing it creates heat, and most resins create enough heat to deform Oyumaru.

If you're going to do resin, you may as well get into silicone molds instead.

Posted him before, but how's he look? The lighting needs to be touched up in spots but I can't get the right humidity, which is fucking with my detail brush.

Thanks man. This was Lothern Blue with a highlight of Temple Guard Blue and then a drybrush of Skink Blue and just a bit of white here and there.

I probably could have made the effects a lot smoother using an airbrush, but I like the hand painted look you get from drybrushing. I think it fits the Malifaux aesthetic really nicely.

>When people try to tell you that ForgeWorld quality is always the same

This is my third Galatus I've built and each one has been a different shade and color. ForgeWorld is never consistent and this is yet further proof for me

Make sure you use greenstuff to reinforce thost thin areas on the left guy's shield, seeing as they're partially transparent.

Yeah its shoulders, shield, and join where the top armor meets the vents needs it.

Been working on that Aspiring Champion of Nurgle conversion I posted in the last thread.

Originally was one of the Dark Angels from the Dark Vengeance box, trying to make a budget squad for SW: A.

Looks good so far. Have you considered dabbing some Nurgles rot in those pits in the upper tabard and armor?

I have Nurgle's Rot and Typhon Corruption coming in the mail.

Would've just grabbed them at my local store, but eBay just did that "sell something and get a $25 gift card" thing and I made a few accounts. So I had some eBay bucks to spend.

This is how you Poorhammer.

reposting from last thread, then never again

Biggest step is gonna be thinning paints, as well as doing thinner highlights. The librarian doesn't look that bad at all.

Final detailing applied, now I just need to wait for my Technicals and figure out what I'm going to do with his backpack.

Might order an Icon of Nurgle bit on eBay or something.

I'm not a fan of the excessive drybrushing on the chainsword and armour. Makes it look too washed out. You could go over those areas with a glaze of the respective colours to bring the intensity back up.

I do thin paints, but I am a very messy painter so I have to go back and clean up way too much, and my highlights are always way heavy. Even when I'm doing edge highlights with the edge of the brush I glob it on. I see people, even beginners, do it with such gentle finesse that it makes me wonder what makes me press so hard on the brush.

early on I was really missing a lot of colors

I need Lahmian Medium (or any glaze medium) to do that, yeah?

I think some thinned Camoshade over all the drybrushed parts would be good, but I've heard thinning shades with water ruins their surface tension, so I was waiting until I could grab some glaze medium.

Yeah you'll need a medium for that. But it'll look so much better.

I'll get some eventually.

I'm all about improving the look of my minis over time. My biggest weakness as a relatively new painter is that I tend to over-rely on drybrushing in general. Here it's really obvious on the metals because I'm using a combo of Necron Compound and Ryza Rust rather than a metallic basecoat.

Looks nice and filthy

How do I protects styrofoam from supergloo so it doesn't get all nurgly?

PVA/School/Wood glue.
Also protects against spray paint.

So I went out and bought this in order to make terrain and stuff awhile ago and realized I have no idea what to cut it with. What would be good?

Also, would it be okay to spray-prime this or would it melt?

looks like a guy's story

>be a brutal lowlife
>get chosen for toughness and made a spacemarine
>happens to be latent psyker, so is temporarily removed from space marine duty, sent to train as psyker
>after becoming full-fledged psyker return to spacemarining as full-fledged librarian

Boxcutter will work just fine.

Doe it have a paper/plastic outer "shell" or is it bare?
If bare I'd advise painting a thing layers of watered down white glue.

If you just want rough edges cut it with YOUR FISTS

Workin on some kekrons ama

It will blunt razors very quickly, but razors will cut it. If you have a heated knife you can shape it very easily, but it releases some super toxic fumes so do it outside and with the proper protection.

Spraying can melt it, but it won't be severe. Still, get some watered down Elmer's glue and seal it up first.

There is a guy on youtube... Terrain Tutor I think he is called? does some very amazing tutorials for working with that stuff. Combine foam with plaster rock molds and wall filler compound for some amazing looking scenery.

I'm not sure if a boxcutter would work. It's like an inch or so thick.

It's hard foam with a very thin plasic/paper shell.

>Terrain Tutor
Is there a video you would recommend that covers it?

Ah 1 inch thickness, that that's a bit more than what i'm used to.

But it's what's used when trimming the boards at work sites, that or one of those insulation knives, though they tear it up

How well can you paint imitation wood?

he had a series where he shows the process step by step for building a really stunningly impressive modular gaming table featuring a beach and natural cliff face.

The whole tutorial is like 10 videos long. Pic related is a screen cap from his recap video at the end.

>part 1
youtube.com/watch?v=BhAKYult25w

Parts 1, 2, and 3 really cover the foam and plaster usage

My attempt

What is the absolute best bit online shop? And is eBay the best place to get random bit bags?

My attempt part 2 included boogaloo

...

if you are in the US ebay is generally the best for specific bits (if you know what you are looking for). If you don't know what you are looking for, browse sprues on the GW site until you do.

If you are in the UK there are a number of good bit sites I'm told, but since I am an amerifat I don't know what those sites are.

If you are looking for bags of random bits? Unsure. Maybe try ebay or asking around at your local gaming club? Most dedicated bit sellers will part out the kits for maximum profits, but buying from randoms might yield interesting stuff.

If a CSM picked up a shield from a fallen SM, would he "x" out the crest, plaster a chaos symbol over it or just not give a shit?

Yes.

Depends on the faction of CSM - some are merely renegade and not chaos.

Crossing out or defacing the crest would likely be a very temporary thing, if they cared to do it at all, and then when they had a chance they would refinish the wargear to be to their liking.

Why does all of the CSM have such amazing trim? When you are in the warp for 10,000 years you really end up with nothing else to do...

Neither, loyalist wargear evaporate if picked up by CSM, just like landspeeders, attack bikes and grav weapons

It seems like the US gets screwed in pretty much everything when it comes to wargaming.

Pre-orders come last, lack of quality terrain sellers, lack of bits sellers, etc. It just sucks.

>Murican complaining about those
Hi from australia you ungrateful cunt

I heard next month this year GW is going to open up third party online retailing (shopping carts and all) of GW products to stores with a brick and mortar location, which was HUGE news when it was announced.

So it is getting better for the US.

As for bit sellers - there are quite a lot of them on ebay, they just use ebay as their store front for legal reasons. That might change after May 3rd, we'll see.

>have a huge country where they can LARP for all they want
>have actual larp stores and stuff
>complain about terrain and tiny bitz

why would you americans play tableotp wargames at all? they were made by Europeans who have little space to larp and so are forced to miniaturize

>go out into the woods to larp
>get shot
yeah no thanks

in the cities where there isn't room for anything, people mostly play MTG or TTRPGs, because there isn't room for wargaming either. The physically huge MTG players take up all the available gaming space all the time seriously wtf

just PVA? how thick should i cover it? will it still hold weight? i.e. won't the PVA layer just come off with the superglued model?

It seems like you've gotten the two backwards, sure the US is big but their LARP scene is a nuclear wasteland.

pva glue is more durable than you give it credit for, especially when applied to porous surfaces like foam. On smooth surfaces it peels easily.

It wont hold a metal Daemon prince on a vertical wall, but shot of that it'll hold as well as the foam itself,

ain't they got that awesome perpetual LARP city somewhere in Canada?

Australia has quite a few terrain sellers and stuff for its size. America has nothing of note.

Larping is lame. Why would I want to go out into the woods and smack people with a foam sword? And I 100% guarantee you can easily do it in Europe, too. Cosplaying would be better, if anything.

>Larping is lame. Why would I want to go out into the woods and smack people with a foam sword? And I 100% guarantee you can easily do it in Europe, too. Cosplaying would be better, if anything.

Reductio ad absurdum, rebuttal: plastic dollies with bad rules.

>America has nothing of note.
America has no good centralised sites, all just local groups and people collectively deciding "it would be nice but I'm sure someone else will do it"

Eh, the rules aren't so bad. What's wrong with dolls?

Thanks mate. I may ask around but yeah a grab bag seems like it might be fun.

Heh, good answer.
So pretty much leave it to my imagination, nice. Not up to date on the fluff at all so good to hear. Helps that I don't play so really who gives a shit what I build haha.
Huh. News to me.

>Huh. News to me.
Go ahead, google all you want, find me one chaos land speeder, attack bike, storm shield of grav-cannon.

Wait, what's that mean exactly? I don't understand.

What do you guys do when you suddenly have in idea for conversion, and it's a cool one, and you really wanna do it, but you realise that the cost of bits alone will be staggering and too large for the number of models you gonna get in the end?

I didn't mean I don't believe you. Just never heard that. But like I said, I don't play so I get a bit more freedom.

cry

Dig out my pile of plasticard tube, plates and structural support beams.

Ain't much but works.

Wow wee.

Has anyone ever made Chaos Orks?

Also many stormboyz used to have a large Khornate following

At the moment if you want to order official GW products from a third party retailer you have to go through a horrible process or emails and tickets. Now you would be able to just use a normal cart system like most websites.

This system would also allow you to order online-only products that GW sells from real third-party stores.