Post best citadel paint

Actually I use it on sisters, only way I'm ever gonna see them look plastic.

Don't worry, i hear that brought up almost as much as armour save modifiers. So i understand.

Elf Grey tastes like memories. I still have two pots left having bulk bought it in the late nineties.

Does mechrite red taste really sour to anyone else?

I use it for my Tau and Guard, looks better after half a gallon of nuln oil.

Best blue master race.

>khorne
>not mephiston
pleb

Everything else posted is a nice paint, but not irreplaceable. This is just a superb technical, unmatched anywhere.

Definitely not Nuln Oil. Shit turns my stomach every time.

I'm really fond of this Tamiya clear red paint, not sure its real name. Always looked spot on for fresh blood. I threw it everywhere on my daemons.

>Citadel thread but this is the only time I'll be able to publicly proclaim my love for this paint set

Absolute fav is pic related. Runners-up: Chetsnut Wash from the same generation, Charadon Granite.

>tasting your washes instead of pouring them down exotic storm drains

Are those the alcohol-based ones or the new ones?

X-27 Clear red, best blood effects of all time

Why do the new geedubs paint not smell as good as the old ones in the hexagonal tubs?

Idk what you mean by "new ones", I'm only familiar with the alcohol-based liquid metallics range. The kinds that look the way molten gold looks in fantasy movies.

It's the alcohol ones that will rust when exposed to air. That's why it says LIQUID GOLD on one of those bottles. The alcohol Vallejo metallics are pretty much nicknamed "the Liquid Gold line". The new line is called Vallejo Metallic Color (because the initials already existed for Vallejo Model Color but fuck us, right Vallejo?) and come in plastic looking airbrush bottles with flip tops and black caps. The alcohol Liquid Gold series come in glass looking jars with white screw tops and I believe the current packaging should have a smiling sun on it.

hey tell me, can I just do miniature painting with regular acrylics if I can mix them well?

Yes but it's not worth it. It's like painting your miniatures with berries and your own ground pigments instead. That's pretty much how crappy generic acrylics are. Don't thin them too much and they're so thick they obscure detail while STILL being transparent, try to thin them and they turn into a watery, fibrous mess.

Just buy pigment dense model paints. The fuck are you wasting money on this hobby for if you're just going to skimp on shit like paint.

I just bought like ten figures I need for my dnd and I want to paint them reasonably well without spending any more that necessary on arts supplies I intend to use once

I'd probably buy like five basic colours and mix anyway, but apparently the colours they sell are awfully specific and this makes it harder that just buying basic canvas acrylics

Buy one of the many, many basic paint starter sets. Army painter is generally a safe bet. It'll do you a lot better than using terrible shit.

pretty much any base or wash is fucking awesome, those are the only colors i buy from them

yes, just buy a good brand. you might need more than coats, that's it.

Buy a cheaper but high quality brand like Army Painter or Scalecolor or even Reaper, and only buy the specific colors you need and mix black and white into everything to create various shades.

If you're already an artist you should be able to get away with just R, B, Y, brown, white, black.

Just get them commission painted or use your local gaming shop's paints.

well I already do oil painting so I can probably mix acrylics as well
the problem is I live in the middle of slavland and while I managed to find second hand minis speciality paints are either citadel or whatever it's called, or something from manufacturer called Pactra and for what it would cost me to get one brand name paints I can get five or six pactra ones

yes, even the crappy ass one work for me (disclaimer, i'm nowhere near being good),
they tend to be thicker and coarser than paints for modelism, tho

thin them well and be patient because you might need to apply several coatings of very fine paint to get the saturation you want (if you don't dilute them you'll just drown all your details with clumps of paint)
unlike hobby paints (vallejo/citadel/etc) the tones are very flat and pure, so creating effects such as pus, rotten flesh, rust, mud, etc... takes effort
by using a shitload of water and very little paint you can do a wash
i buy primer, bases, and washes from vallejo and citadel and every other color from regular acrylics (unless is some very specific color like citadel's gold) and it gets the job done

>i buy bases washes and metallics from citadel
>that's like 75% of the paintjob

>easy application
>perfect shade of purple for my purposes
>no longer produced and can't find a suitable replacement that comes close

just fuck me up senpai

I had a box in storage for a decade. Every citadel pot was dried out and every Coat'd'Arms pot is still good. QED. Citadel a shit, scientifically speaking.

Kantor blue is just the right shade to go midnight clad

i have models that i've painted without modelism paint, including citadel's metallic paints, it's just i no longer see any point in doing so
bases (whether citadel's of for regular scale models) are just fucking great and so are washes, you could do the same with regular acrylics but it would take more time

Those look like they have hella shiny pigment density, even in the photograph. Woahaooahoah.

Oils are very ok for miniatures, why didn't you even consider them if you use them?
Some pro painters use them and say they look better for some specific colours. I don't know about that, but oils definitely work for miniatures.

If those are your only choices, get a Citadel base paint set. The finer grind on the pigments is actually worth it compared to using craft or artist acrylic paints.

Coat d'Arms are just the old Citadel paints. GW broke up with them around 2012 and started making the current paint line. Even the colors are still the same so if you have old OOP GW colors you can find them at Coat d'Arms.

really? I was convinced acrylics are preferable for miniatures.
I know oils cure much much longer and I wonder how would they react to being touched a lot, even varnished.
I got good quality paints already though

It's because they use higher quality aluminum flakes as well. That's why they rust. They use the same technique for Vallejo Metallic Color and GW's AoS metallics with the white lids which is why they are so much better than GW's old metallics and cost more money. Thinner and smoother, yet still covers better and is brighter.

After you varnish you could evem have spit on the miniature and it will reamin there, varnish protects flock too, anything goes as long as it sticks long enough to be varnished. The long curong time is why most people don't even know oils are an option, with miniatures people don't generally want to wait hours, but it's a bonus too, i guess you know about wet blending? Oils make it easier since they don't cure as fast as acrylics. If you have experience with oils i would advise using them or at least trying, if you have no access to miniature paints then just go for them. (Tbh i have no experience but there are some people that defend hogh quality artist acrylics and say they work just as well as miniature paints, there was a miniatures manufacturer which said he only uses a specific brand he likes and says they are in no way worse, it might be that the stigma around craft paints is partially overblown, but again i never tried. I will post the brand in question shortly if you are interested.)

Paint range is pebeo, here is the link to the manufactirer supporting them if you are interested, somewhere he sais there is no difference and he is a good painter and not a poorfag so i have little reason to doubt. ( though gain none to believe him either, just pointing out stuff you people make your choices).
theionage.com/collections/paints-range

you're talking my language man AND you just saved me a bunch of money

I'm good with oils, I got good quality paint and I did some research on my own and it appears it's really a thing among guys who build tanks and such and there's some miniature specific tutorials there for oils so I suppose I start doing my research.

DOT-3 is good for batch stripping, right?

youtube.com/watch?v=axFTMHp8vHU

I have no idea what dot3 is, here in italy we use chante clair/ any genrric degreaser( i don't know why no one ever mentions it here, it doesn't strip primer, but it's 100% safe both for the miniature and you), i read a lot of people using simple green and rubbing alvohol, but know nothing about those. Also i have no idea if any of these things will work with oils, but i guess it will? I don't know any product you might want to trt remember try it first in a piece of sprue or expendable piece of miniature.

dot-3 is brake fluid, it's supposed to strip paint and primer
I got primer and I'm pretty sure oils will stick to it, given time to cure

Also i am interested in oils too, if you find a good tutorial please post it.

Never forget

Ayyy, i heard nasty stuff abot brake fluid, test first.(shit i keep on remembering stuff late, is the cost of good oils and acrylics comparable or do oils cost much more? Since you already have exp with oils do you think you would be able to say if they would be cheaper then hobby paints? I am interested)

well I never bought hobby/model paints but I looked up online how much would those cost me and while a tube of an oil paint 200ml of thick pigment rich paste costs only twice as much (van gogh brand - popular mid range choice in my country) as a teeny tiny (12ml) jar of citadel paint. Hobby acrylics probably cost about the same as citadel paint but for like a 100ml of thick paint but don't take my word for it.
Depending on what I'm painting you can do with hardware store brushes for some things, but I guess I'll have to buy at least a couple of extra fine ones for models, but those are relatively cheap at the arts store, cheaper than citadel brushes.
Mediums like linseed oil or isopropyl are cheap

Generally oils are expensive, especially if you are starting a palette, but depending on how much (large) you paint you can get really good mileage from them. If you only painted minis I think they could last you forever, but I can't recommend switching since I'm only about to try them on minis myself.

This shade will literally turn babby painters into adequate hobbyists.

>ctrl+f
>no Hawk Turquoise
Absolutely shameful.

Old flesh wash, it was great for metals but not flesh.

Dot-3 is brake fluid, what some of you are thinking of is "brake parts cleaner". As a mechanic who deals with this shit daily, I do not recommend either one for use with plastic miniatures. Brake fluid is less corrosive than brake parts cleaner, but still has a chance of melting most plastics or at least scarring them. Brake fluid will mar auto paint and corrode metal.

No. They aren't. It's not the paint itself that I bought. It's the product of a sealing paint pot that I could use at some point in the future rather than coming back to dried up useless garbage after a little bit of storage.

cool. I'll have to play with those when I get a chance. Shiny af.

I don't want to watch ten minutes of some dude painting to answer my question.

What does he use for masking?

Fuck those paint pots. Fucking garbage. Textbook GW: How to alienate an entire generation of gamers.

oh ok
then what do you recommend for safely stripping acrylics

I still have half a pot that I'm using for my Genestealer Cult units. No idea what I'm gonna do if it runs out before the army's finished.

my nigger.

Protip: Use kantor blue to paint ALL eyeballs! Its the easiest paint to apply as eyes, for some reason

>Use kantor blue to paint ALL eyeballs!

Yes but why would you paint all your models as having solid blue eyes?

Citadel paint is overpriced junk, like pretty much everything from gw

The perfect black highlight

Close, but not quite.

what country do you live in?

Nobody asked a question, I was just showing user the Liquid Gold paint in action since he complimented it.

I don't know what he uses for masking, but judging by how easily it peels away it's probably just low-stick masking tape.

This is my go to blue. From Tau to BB dwarves. If it's blue, it's Kantor.

While Caledor Sky may be close enough to Enchanted Blue, Xereus Purple is just not the same as Liche Purple, and NOTHING matches old Midnight Blue, not even Kantor.

my man. just picked up another bottle today.

If you don't chug the paint water every time you finish a mini you're a coward

I have 5 pots of this unopened, and 6 of Devlan Mud

This will always be my favourite paint; painted my first regiment of skeleton warriors with this as their shield/cloth/etc colour

Fag

>and 6 of Devlan Mud
>stocking 6 pots of an inferior wash that will separate before you finish the 2nd one
>not just using AP strong tone

I'm disappointed in you all

poland

Its beauty is perfect.
And now I can buy it on its own without needing to buy an entire paint set.
To think I used to mix my own version.

But
Really the best citadel paint is black wash.

Badly painted armies will look decent if you apply a good coat of black wash.

To jak znajdziesz cos dobrego do plastików to daj znać.

Back in the day, I managed to find a use for this colour on almost every model I painted. Also got a lot of use out of , somehow.

Khorne Red doesn't seem to be able to decide if it wants to be red or magenta.

Needs to be a nice, even coat though. If you apply it unevenly, your shitty paint jobs will end up positively steaming.

Never had that problem with Snakebite Leather. In fact, it was probably the best Citadel paint I ever used.

You shut your whore mouth, Snakebite Leather is awesome and I still use it despite having mostly switched to superior brands.

I have two pots of late 1980's Citadel paint. Shining gold and Mithril Silver. The lids have perished and cracked, but the paint is still liquid. Meanwhile, in my hex-pots....

This.

It was shit. The only colours you need are bad moonz yellow and flesh wash.

That's not Hawk Turquoise.

Khorne red with a secondaryof macragge blue looks fuckin sweet for their armor and vehicles.

ALSO MACRAGGE BLUE IS NOT ULTRAMARINES IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE CALGAR BLUE AND YELLOW NOT DARK BLUE AND GOLD.

>CALGAR BLUE AND YELLOW
Nigga, fuck your 2nd/3rd edition cartoon marines.

what? no ushabti bone? Litterall the best colour GW ever made.

also
fuck you and your edgy marines, they look like clowns anyway, toning the blue down slightly won't make them realistic, just choose the superior aesthetic.

TIL that not making Marines look like they stepped out of a kids' cartoon is "edgy".