WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!! Work In Progress - Painting, Converting, and Sculpting - General

>Citadel Painting Guides:

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers

>Painting Videos only

>DIY Lightbox

>DIY Spraybooth

>DIY Wet Palette

>How to Moldlines

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation

>This planet is ours, witch!

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I know I keep asking, but I keep getting different helpful responses. Heroclix and mageknight to rpg minis conversion guy here, Anyone repainted heroclix or mageknight before? Should I paint before rebase? Should I strip and prime? Should I just strip and go for it?

Working on my SA, some C&C for the flesh/muscles would be nice.

anyone know where i can get some nazi heads that fit on guard models? I'm starting a guard army and want to do blood pact.

>I want to do the fan art version of Blood Pact which is actually some gay OC called the Red Rivers, I just started this hobby yesterday
Okay dude but when you wanna get serious this is how actual Blood Pact look.

Pre-painted miniatures should be stripped with a cleaner that is safe for that type of rubber/plastic, then primed before repainting.

Repainting over a prepainted miniature never looks good.

Try searching for things like "stahlhelm heads". Anvil Industries likely has stuff, though you'll likely still have to do some mods if you want to make them look really Chaos-y.

Get over yourself.

What washes do you guys use on Mephiston Red
Trying to get some ideas for what combinations might look nice

Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, Carroburg Crimson are the common ones. Basically black, sepia/brown, or red.

You can experiment with other colors but you should know what you are doing and have a good grasp of color theory before you try using something like a blue wash on a red model.

Go to max mini and search up Fallen Legionnaire heads. No mod work required.

I would push the highlights more, and some thin stripes along the length of muscles to represent the separate strands, otherwise you're on a good path.

Got any advice on brightening red without making it super pink? Or would a little bit of pink look okay?

The Stahlhelm thing is a meme due to Torture-Device's art.

Real Blood Pact forces use both captured imperial equipment and things manufactured on worlds controlled by them, so they probably use a variety of helmets. Which I do concede *could* include stahlhelm looking ones.

Veeky Forums is so gay these days. Whenever you say their memes are shit they sperg out.
Thank you.

Haven't painted in a long time, trying to just focus on the basics. Anything I've done glaringly wrong?

If a miniature is 32mm scale, would it fit on a 25mm base and not look wonky? Don't want to order new bases until I'm more sure

It looks pretty good but some bright highlights would really make that thing pop.

Whereabouts were you thinking?

It depends how far apart the legs are. If it's standing with legs fairly close together it will look fine, like a slightly tall 40k figure on a 25mm base. Think the old Necron HQs were like this.

The facemask, the shoulderpads the chestpiece, the legplates the sword...

I agree with The job is solid and clean and looks good but the colors are dull. Part of it is your lack of lighting and taking a photo in a darkened room, but most of it is probably because of your painting technique where you drybrushed(?) over the black with gold. This makes your gold look faded and dark.

I would do some heavy bright gold drybrushes, or paint on some bright gold on the very edges of the model, such as his crown, the tips of his knee armor, etc to give some brightness and color.

these seem to be of varied types of plastic, just from the feel.

ahh i see..... sorry

Thanks bro

I think a little pink would be fine, you can always tone it back down with a glaze of red again. Alternatively mix in some more red to your pink, keep it grapefruity.

I did a wash of devlan mud over the gold, so going over everything but the recesses would bring back the brightness I guess?

Yeah, when you put a wash over a color, especially metallics, it dirties it and lessens the color. If I ever do a messy wash where I just paint it on everything instead of carefully putting it in the cracks, I always go back with the color to clean up the high surfaces and restore some color.

If you buy the new washes in gloss form, like Seraphim Sepia Gloss or Agrax Earthshade Gloss (GW doesn't make Devlan Mud anymore and Agrax Earthshade is a bit darker and more red) then the gloss factor of these washes helps keep the metallic shine, but I usually don't find it worth it to buy a whole special pot of gloss wash just to do that when I can simply repaint.

Yeah I've tried nuln, so give crimson a try and no drakenhof or something eh?

Nope, they're described as wearing them in most of the books they're in. They even have them on the cover of the novel called Blood Pact thats about a strike team fucking up Commisariat HQ.


Every Pactsman carries at least a Grotesk (the iron mask around their jaw) and a rite knife, for blood shenanigans. An easy out is to use bowl helms with gas masks on, unless you're good at tiny sculpting.

Some Dark Eldar heads have things that look like them tho, so you could use them and just trim down the ears. Hellions, I think

I put a Dispersion Shield on the back of one of my Praetorians. What does TG think? Does it look nice as a personalizing effort? Should I use different bits?

>Got any advice on brightening red without making it super pink?

Successively lighter reds moving towards yellow, but honestly ... if you've gone past Troll Slayer Orange, you're probably going too far.

>Or would a little bit of pink look okay?

No, it wouldn't. You highlights should be accomplished by mixing yellow into your red (or purchasing pre-mixed lighter reds and oranges), not white.

and if you want more of style check out secret weapon miniature's oni heads. Come with and without helmets.

as for 'nazi helmets' you can just look into 28mm historicals and use german helmets.
Warlord and Westwind both have miniature ranges that use separate head systems.

personally i think torture device's art is in poor taste, but whatevs

First model I've painted in about 14 months. Does anyone know if there's a company out there that does black/burnt grass tufts?

if you are in the uk check out ebay. There are a bunch of people armed with flockboxes that do custom tufts in all colors.
Warlord also sells a variety of styles, not sure about burned grass though, but they do some dark ones.

You can also drybrush grass to make it look burned.
That's neat cause you end up with a color gradient on the grass.

I can only recall them being described as "bowl-shaped" in the books.

Cool, thanks. Also, this is my first time making a custom base for a mini. What's a good way to stick a mini onto your base after you fancied it up? Does regular old super glue keep a stable connection?

What decent paint stripper can you get in store in Canada?

if you google bowl helmets you'll find images of stahlhelms. at the end of the day all helmets are bowl-shaped in one way or another.

might be enough for a plastic model, most other stuff you want to pin.
You don't need to pin if you got a metal model with a slotta base or glue plastic models onto plastic bases with plastic glue.

Progress on the Solitare, thoughts?

thanks for the tip user, I've found what I need.
(((Nine))) days until payday though.

Nice and smooth, the purple mask kinda blends in with the collar though. 8/10, would have preferred a contrasting colour on it

This is a hard hobby to have when your 16 month old kid wants to eat every small item he finds.

I'll probably pin then, just in case.

Last question then I'll fuck off. If this small base is a 25mm and the large one is a 75mm, what the fuck is the middle one here?

Using this poor method of measuring in colored bars and a heap of common sense it looks like it's a 2 inch/50mm base, but shouldn't two blue bars equal a red bar? Am I just over analyzing this out of preemptive buyer's remorse over the wrong size of base?

Thanks, thought this is for a friend and their Harlequin army is Red/ Black. Not sure which Colour I could toss on the mask and keep the Slaanesh thing though.

Anyone with experience working with plasticard here? I need to cut some into circles for some rotor blades but I can't for the life of me figure out how.

Is there some kind of tool out there that anyone can recommend that would help?

Bright silver or bone coloured with a purple glaze/lahmian wash? That's how I'd paint the Masques mask.

yeah you can get circle cutters (not sure if that is what they are called in english).
basically a compass with a blade on one side. Still a lot of work to cut anything thicker than ~2mm though.
Another option might be a hole punch.

just need to finish one more and im done with my first squad of carcharodons

bless you user, you beautiful bastard. with one of these, I may finally be able to build a Ku'Gath the Plaguefather model that's actually on a palanquin, not a boring rectangular table.

For anyone interested in using one, they're called compass cutters.

So for reds you just go from red to almost orange? Even on flesh?

Anyone tried Seraphim or violet shades on Mephiston?

nice even coverage on the grey, based and decent blood effects. 2 qualms; drill yer barrels and (this is a really personal, autistic gripe) I always imagined the power fields of power weapons being hot enough to evaporate the blood from the blades.

9/10 would get charged by

>2 qualms; drill yer barrels and (this is a really personal, autistic gripe) I always imagined the power fields of power weapons being hot enough to evaporate the blood from the blades.
all i need to do is buy a drill and thatll be dealt with
also thats interesting, the thing about the blood being evaporated
thank you :)

I asked this in a thread before but my internet died and I didn't get to see any response so I apologise for asking this again.

I'm colourblind and was wondering what colour the cult of the cursed blade armour plating is? I know the hair is lime green and the lexicanum says the armour is teal but it looks more like a dark green to me.

>So for reds you just go from red to almost orange? Even on flesh


Looks dark turquoise to me, user.

Middle one is probably 40mm.

I see some stahlhelms and some not

So I stand by my statement. They might use some, but more likely they use a variety of helmet designs.

Thanks, I only ask because I have trouble seeing teal/turquoise. In some art it looks more dark green but the official stuff seems to be set on teal.

Think it looks great.
In fact, its the direct opposite of the last guy who for a long while kept posting his Solitare over and over again asking for c&c, and keeping ignoring our replies that it looked flat and dull.
Eventually he got angry and couldn't understand why his plain white with no wash, or why his black with no highlights looked boring as fuck.

This though, love the left leg especially, this is a great example of how to create the illusion of depth, masterfully done!

Id do something more interesting with the digi-squares though, they leave something to be desired from.

Official art is turquoise while the models look more like black highlighted up to turquoise.

The first of my Wild Riders. Very cool kit but very fragile.

Well since official art of them only shows them bareheaded or in stahlhelms, I think that justifies the use of nazi hats for those that want to. The Blood Pact control a Forge World (Urdesh) that churns out reaver pattern Russes and flak armour, but on the tabletop who really wants to see red cadians as BP?

There's a reason maxmini made those fallen legionnaire heads, the reviewers on their websites agree they're perfect for pactsmen.

Jesus fucking Christ my screen

How do I convince my Army Painter Mega Set friend I'm not a total sucker for buying Citadel Paints?

Paint your minis very well and make his look tabletop standard in comparison.

You are a sucker.

Thanks for the kind words. Black is really though trying to create depth with but I got a lot of practice when I was painting Death Company.

The pic though was taken with poor lighting, I think the squares look fine but am open to suggestions!

Why does superglue take forever to start adhering on resin and start to dry instantly on flesh?

you likely need to wash the resin, it may still have mold release on it, especially if it appears shiny

Probably you're putting too much on the miniature but only getting a little on your fingers. Try using less.

It's dull grey-white. No shine.

Strangely... intuitive. Huh. Alright, thanks.


hey /wip/ I'm looking for scythe blades for a conversion, I want to make some chaos warriors with scythes as halberds I know of the blightking box and the zombies what are some other sources for scythe blades that don't make me buy full kits for one weapon

>tfw want to paint but all minis are painted
>tfw no money for new minis for a while
what do you guys do when this happens

Strip your oldest mini and do it better.

Literally the first guys I've ever put together.
Yeah, I know the mold lines are still pretty obvious, and I wasn't thinking much when I assembled the first soldier, so his pose looks pretty damn unnatural.
The rest are still unassembled - I just cut out all the bits from the sprues and bagged them up in separate containers.
W very much IP.

Consider cutting the right guy from the base and regluing him down. His right forefoot should be flat on the base, as it is I suspect he is leaning backwards when he should be leaning forwards in a running pose.

Those legs gave me a lot of trouble (and the other ones I'm seeing in the set are also worrying me a little) - if I change how he's sitting, it seems like he'll basically be attached to the base only by one small part of one leg; is that stable?
(The cutting, I assume, is simple enough, just careful knifework.)

>is that stable?
Enough for plastic yeah, that's why I like plastic models, with the plastic cement a little can carry a lot.

And yeah, be careful, my thumb is a mess of callouses and scars after decades in the hobby,

>with the plastic cement a little can carry a lot.
This makes me much less worried about the other legs!
Yeah, just from trying to cut away the moldlines and sprue bits (to varying success) I've had a couple times where the knife slipped and went towards my thumb. No actual cuts yet, though, so either I'm being somewhat careful or my knife is crappier than I thought.

Well that the funny inverse rule of knives.

Sharper knifes "will" cut yo if they hit, but it'll be a clean cut that heal fast and you won't use much force so it's easier to control.

Blunt knives may bounce off, but you need to use more force, sawing and other shit that will guarantee slips, ans WHEN a blunt knife cuts it tends to be ragged cuts that'll be a bitch to heal.

My razor saw, snips and table vice took years to finally appreciate and buy.

So, I accidentally came across a new way to do snow camo schemes this week.

My StuG, pictured, was painted in a simple green and brown camo scheme. I recently picked up a new case to transport my bolt action minis in, and I ended up supergluing some felt strips inside it so my minis wouldn't get scratched up in transit. After doing so and closing it, I let it sit for a few hours, then opened it to find that my minis had acquired this soft white coating, from superglue vapors condensing on them. It's very thin, and rubs off in fingers if it's unwanted, but it also achieved a perfect winter camo look, so I added a clear coat to seal it onto my StuG.

Soon I'm going to try to replicate it, see if the felt is important somehow or if it's just superglue vapors in an airtight box.

The Nyss Raptor horns look way better. Good choice.

Your knife blade should be pointed away from your fingers.

I do my Blood Pact with Harlequin masks on a blob of greenstuff.

warlord store

And here's my Blood witch. called a Bludvayne in one of the Gaunts Ghosts books.

Anyone by chance buy a Mortis Engine and doesn't want the vampire ladies in it?

It's hard to find minis of duchesses, countesses, noble ladies, and the like. Suggestions for others of different brands is appreciated.

I wanted a light grey like that but I was too lazy so I just settled for the darker grey that my spray primer was.

Looks alright, I like the scratch effects on the shoulder pads and the paint for the most part appears thin.

Your high lights could be worked on more however, you could of gone brighter with everything. You want to use Troll Slayer Orange at the highest tip, Extreme Highlights are the best because you are able to pick it up from 2ft away.

Also Blood Witch is neat but went over kill with the Blood. Remember, less is more. Right now it just looks like she is wearing Red Latex. Next time I would recommend painting the clothing normally, to the best of your ability, highlights, washes and all. Then take that Blood Technically paint and have it run down her body via the lowest path of resistance. That means have it pool at the bottom of her left elbow, the bottom of her fist, running over her hips and pooling around the edges of her belts and boots.

Or I could be wasting my time and you did intend for her to wear red latex, which in that case nice job.

Any recommendations on material to blend pre-mounted bases into GW 25 MM bases, and fill in tab slots?

Considered Greenstuff but it might be a bit too thick (and costly for 40 bases worth)

Totally forgot to post this here.

Yoofs for my Shadow War team

After google searching the colour samples I'd say it was more Teal than Turquoise as its darker.

Regular black witchsuit
Dark Teal armour plates
Gold shoulder plate and kneepad
Hair is a bright green

its very nice, however the highlights on the rectangles on the cloak look too thick imo.

All purpose caulk. 1 quid a tube from wilkos if your uk

scything talons from hormagaunts?

If you find one scythe you're really happy with you can always make some moulds for it and make however many you require.

I really like tone you've got going on with those models. Very understated. Hope you can continue it on with the rest of the model and base.

Why not just cut it the smaller base away?

Tiny feet that are half embedded in the base, its be two stick stying to hold them vertical.

Right ta.

The skin looks fantastic! Are you going to detail their clothing/gear? How do you plan to differentiate them from da boyz?