WIP WORK IN PROGRESS /WIPG/

I laughed. and then i broke inside...

A while ago I wanted to start an Deldar army too, but I realized how foolish that is considering that I've spent the last 7 years collecting miniatures and only painting ~5.
Anyway I though about doing something like pic related. Kind of like the first scenes in Alien.
Was gonna make a few spiky protusion like that that could fit on a base, cast them in resin and then blend them into the base with texture paste.
Something along those lines.

Hi guys, what gw paint do i apply to xereus purple as a fine highlight? Screaming skull? Pallid wych flesh?

Yeah I know. To be fair the gloss does legitimately look much better irl than in the photos. Problem is we are selling our house and I just wanted him done and varnished so I can pack him away. I was intending to do a white and red pattern not dissimilar to your suggestion and will revisit when I get round to painting some plague drones.

this thing recommends genestealer purple.
If you want you could highlight it with the colors you mentioned though.
Depends on what you are going for really.

Almost done... All I need to do is build the filter.

>mfw when I've worked through all my unpainted lead

>except that will never happen

Yeah, gloss effects can be tricky to capture without professional photography.

A miniature is never finished, I suppose, and you're right that you can always go back and work on the carapace some more when you're more stable and have the time.

So who's got the best shades on the market?

I'm trying to do very precise recess shades, and I want some of those washes that just wick right into all the crevasses. I've been using GW, since they have variety, but anyone know something better?

Thanks!

Repostan because it's important

#
I recommend finding out what kind of models you want to paint first: eldar, ogres, marines, frostgrave soldiers, skaven, skeletons, malifaux gremlins or whatever.
Then, find the most prominent colors used to paint these. For gremlins you would want some bright green for the skin and maybe blue for the denim, and whatever for whatever details you have, while for skeletons you want cream colors and metals, and maybe browns for leathers and rags. Yiu get the idea.
Then, if you want to use citadel colors, use this chart, and pick the darkest and the brightest tone of the corresponding color -on the LAYERING side! - and also the wash. When startig out, the midtone can be sufficiently cheated in by mixing the oher two, so don't worry about this yet. For example, if you want cream colors for the bone, pick up Zandri Dust, Screaming Skull, and the wash seraphim Sepia. For green skin, waaagh! flesh, skarsnik green, and biel-tan green. Etc.
If you want to use eome other brand, which is often freferrable, the process is the same. You just need to find the appropriate colors yourself, as I don't know them. Do mind that the washes from citadel (games workshop) are considered to be great, so I recommend you pick up at least some of these. It should also be noted that you can skip some of the washes and just use others without fucking shit up too much. A pot of agrax earthshade and a pot of nuln oil will work on almost anything, at least while just starting out.
This should build a nice starting range of colors at least. If you don't go crazy and buy lots of different types of models, he number of pots you buy this way should be quite small.

That's my tips on the paints at least. You also need to get a pair of clippers, an xacto knife, plastic glue (the one with the metal needle from revell) and pencils of course.

Oh yeah, and primer, which is not! paint.

So in the last couples threads I was asking what people did with their spare pieces and sprues and so far it seems like sprues are kept for improving things and the spare bits I'm still slightly more confused. Ive also heard a little bit about conversions but on that im totally confused still. I asked the first place because I was kidna on the fence on whether or not I should magnetize my basic boyz from my starter kit since It came with a pretty huge amount of spare arms.

look into pin washing with oils.
Mig might even sell something premade.

>tfw when duncan says your first and last name in a video but you've never sent in a request

Can anyone recommed a way of painting a bone style armour?

>tfw a britbong couldn't even pronounce your name

Fallout Wasteland Warfare is on the horizon. I need nice 32mm bandits, raiders and soldiers.
Help?

google around for deathwing painting tutorials.
Tale of painters and from the warp are pretty good hobby blogs that should have one each iirc.

I have used sprue to make a rusty garbage punch dagger for a bottom tier skaven, sling stones, decorative spikes, base texture, and wyrdstone markers. You keep your spare bits to give yourself more options later; if you want X dude with Y thing that doesn't come in that dude's kit, you look through your spares for something useful.

well fuck.
I wrote a whole novel about this before captcha decided to fuck me over and eat my posts.
Anyway.

Games that are somewhat flexible in scale
Sulphur by TerraGnosis
Eden by Taban
Punkocalyse by some french company I forgot the name off.
Mad robot does pretty 'heroic', i.e. big 28mm minis that might work for 32mm.
Use their raider bits and replace the heads and arms with something that is appropriate in size and they might look ok.

28mm is a way better scale for this though.
You'd be able to use a wealth of zombies, zombiesurvivors and the like as ghouls, civilians, raiders or beatlords.
There are some pretty neat mad max style minis kicking about.
Warlord sells the old Wargames Factory survivor and biker kits that would be prime conversion fodder. Even come with guns that fit the setting.
Tribals could be represented by any number of historical miniatures. Copplestone, Perry, Northstar, Foundry and the like sell any number of indiginous people for various periods that would be useful for that stuff.

Have a look around, in the wake of the last Mad Max film a lot of stuff you could use sprung up, but 32mm limits your options somewhat.

Finished my enginseer dude.

ah good call, i'd forgotten about deathwing. cheers for that.

Gloss varnish your mini beforehand to break up surface tension. The wash will flow right into the recesses. Also look up how to make oil washes on YouTube.

>28mm is a way better scale for this though.
Be that as it may, the game is 32mm

Those are sprue bits.
They are very roughly cut, because they're not meant to be nice, but you can still make decent stuff. That user who made a stalagmite of rock with sprue bits for his Kharadron is a solid example.

My Termies are finally ready for the Agrax. Any suggestions on the chapter of the impaled Marine head?

Looking good.

Looks green already so I would say Aurora Chapter.

Failing that, what colours go well with green? Use thay colour.

Space Wolf

I for sure want to try doing stuff similar to that with my sprues. Its been kinda hard for me to choose what arms I wanted to put on each of my guys its kinda the reason I was wondering about magnets or not so damn much that starter box came with a lot more than I had expected and its made choosing a little hard. Doesnt help that I dont know jack shit about rules or anything like that, kinda just considering putting boyz together based on looks.

Obviously Ultras

thank you!

Airbrush yes or no?
I'm really contemplating buying one.

Is that overkill just for miniatures?

just do it. Worth even if only priming/base coating.

Are there any comparisons of miniatures painted with brush and airbrush?
I really want those smooth blended edges, but that's kinda possible with much blending too.

What kind of airbrush and compressor did you buy?

Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and generic chinese compressor.

The one with a regulator but no tank and with hindsight maybe should've got the tank.

So I've got a bunch of stuff I wanna convert, but I wanna hold off until the new edition in case I make something that I can't use in-game.

Decided to throw together a quick barricade from Stronghold Assault out of some leftover bits and sprues. About to start tidying it up before I realised they might change the Obstacles list from Stronghold Assault too..

First for Waaaaagh!

I got an Iwata Revolution BR and a noname compressor with a tank, regulator and moisture trap for ~$300. The booth has cost me $150.

It cost quite a bit, but from what I was willing to do without a booth, airbrushing is fucking magic. I push a button and a perfect coat of the color appears on the model.

Oh, I got a kit from TCP global.

I can't believe I didn't get one years ago. It's such a nice experience.

Finished the main coat of gold and the shading. Tomorrow I will do touch-ups and highlighting.

>It cost quite a bit, but from what I was willing to do without a booth, airbrushing is fucking magic. I push a button and a perfect coat of the color appears on the model.
Got any comparison of before and after?

Hey, did you guys know that Duncan Rhodes absolutely HATES niggers?

I'm stuck guys, how do I go about highlighting this red for a bike? I know which colours to use but unsure how to actually make it look like a reflection of light, highlighting the corners just seems too easy. Do I just try to have the colours spill down from the edges?

I'm painting up a squat, anyone got some old school paint job style photos of them?

>have tournament next week
>want to bring my Kastelan Robots
>only half finished and still need to do some Skitarii weapons
>spent the last 2 weeks playing the shit out of Overwatch because the game had an event
Fuck.

And here I was last time around, swearing to myself that I wouldn't try to last-minute finish my models for the next tournament.

Anybody have an idea what my blood reaver chief can have for his left arm? I tacked on a knife just to see how it looks, but it bothers me that the knife on his belt would be drawn with his left hand so he shouldn't already have one drawn.
I'm not sure if he should have an empty hand (like he uses two for his big axe) that's pointing or fist, etc. Or if he should carry something like another weapon, severed heads (like starter set), buckler, or something else entirely.
Any help would be great.

Maybe try and find some decapitated head and give that to him somehow? Or generally an arm holding a decapitated head.

Something similar to pic related would seem fitting.

So I'm seeing a lot of talk of airbrush use. If I'm just getting into the hobby will I have to buy an aibrush to have my models look decent or is it better if I learn to paint properly first?

Will soaking my plastic models in alcohol to strip paint weaken the plastic?

nice pc man

>will I have to buy an aibrush
no
>to have my models look decent
airbrush is just another tool. You can be shit with a brush or an airbrush. Neither is a magic win button. In order to get good results you'll need skill with both.
An airbrush can speed priming or basing up and make certain things like gradients on large surfaces easier. It's a time saver more than anything.
>or is it better if I learn to paint properly first?
As I said. Both tools have to be learned 'properly'.
Unless you plan on painting hordes of miniatures or need a faster turnaround because you are doing comission, i.e. time is money, you can get by fine without an airbrush.

Lookin nice.
I always wondered about painting miniatures for board games, what will you do to protect the paint from wear and tear?

Man, I really like those bases

The only issue with that is it makes him basically the same as the other chieftain from the starter set
Pic related (not my painting)

Oh, I see, wasn't aware of that.

Maybe give him some kind of icon or banner?
Might be a bit of a challenge, but giving him a torn, bloody imperial banner as a trophy could also look pretty sweet.

Anyone know a way to get a dirty, stained look on armor? I was thinking of letting the wash dry unevenly, and a friend suggested some thinned down Rhinox Hide

Depends, where do you want the light to hit?
Basically have the brightest area be where the light hits, and move down/away to darker colors.

you could turn his axe upside down and turn the heroic pointy thing into a broodingly standing around thing.
That way, even if you put trophies into his left arm as well it will still look different enough.

paint the dirt first and then do a drybrush with metal.
The harder you drybrush the more 'polished' it's gonna look.

What the fuck are these tiny bases GW keep giving me for? Who actually bases minis with this bullshit?!

Not really anything worth showing. I used a drybrush painting style because I had so much of a pain in the dick getting thinned paint to flow like I wanted it to off of a brush so there isn't really much of a comparison, and I've only painted a few test models since I got the brush. I'm going to go to the DIY store this weekend to get the last parts to build the filter bucket for my spraybooth, and then I'm going to spend some time painting.

Oh, I see how that'd work. I'll give it a shot.

>buy a kit
>be confused about which model the bases in the kit are for

?

I meant the bases are too small and the minis don't look good on them. Instead of providing larger bases with the kit, they're stingy and give the smallest size.

Because they're large enough for regular, small miniatures and are intended for actual play, where base size actually does matter.

filthy mon-keigh's titan never reach 6'1.

what did you buy anyway?
If it's old stock you might have gotten 25mm pre-32mm-revolution bases with your marines.
Other than that not many base sizes changed recently.

Necron Warriors, the older box, so that checks out.

Best way to magnetize infantry for SWA? Orks, if it matters.

Is there a better way to get deep lipped bases than by cutting the top off regular GW bases and putting a new plasticard bottom on them? Planning out sea themed DE, trying to figure out how to get proper sea bases with water depth for my Scourges.

>What the fuck are these tiny bases GW keep giving me for?

Those are 25mm bases, user. If you've purchased Terminators or a Devastator Squad lately, that would be for the teleport homer and Armorium Cherub respectively.

you can buy hollow bases from secret weapon miniatures.
They're kind of expensive for what they are though.

I've seen them, but a. they're awful shallow, b. they're resin and I already spend way too much time hating my resin models' material to do more resin work.

>a. they're awful shallow
Well the GW bases are only about 4-5mm high and if you want a bottom in your bases there is no way make them deeper without resorting to thicker bases.
Not sure what you expected.
>b. they're resin and I already spend way too much time hating my resin models' material to do more resin work.
They're the only hollow bases with beveled edges I know of though.
Cleaning them with detergent is the only work you have to do to prep them though. No assembly required.
You could opt for round lipped bases, as you can get those in plastic, but then you're dealing with different base sizes and an entirely different style of bases.

I mean you can check out reaper, mantic and other to see if you have more luck, but afaik these are the only two options you have.
Resin bases or a different style. Or do them yourself of course. But they're not getting deeper.
You could cast your minis in transparent resin after they are painted, but that could end up looking terrible.

This be worth a shit?

ebay.com/itm/Warhammer-30k-space-marine-sprues-/152530675894?hash=item23838968b6:g:JDMAAOSwONBZBcC-

Fair enough. I was just wondering if anyone knew of any other options. I've seen much deeper *display* bases, but that's obviously a different concern. From what I've seen, the GW bases will be deep enough to work with.

I've been looking into the same thing for a while now (for swamp bases), but the SWM bases are the next best thing to hollowing the bases out yourself.
I haven't found anything else like them either.

>agonize over getting a Chimera for months
>Armored Assault boxes come out
>even more tempted, agonize even harder
>decide not to since I don't have the money right now and that I should work on what I got already
>ff 5 minutes
>get message from friend
>"Hey man, would you want go halfsies on that new guard box?"
>"I just want the guardsmen, you can have the tank"
Welp, daddy's got a brand new Chimera for his Inquisition. Should a pretty fun build. Not sure how much I want to "your dudes" it up, but I feel like I should. Inquisition is the best faction for it after all.
Leman Russes' look good on Chimera chassis, but how do Chimera look on Leman Russ chassis? I can't find a picture of the conversion in question.
Uh... asking for a friend of course.

>This be worth a shit?

If everybody stopped bidding right now and you walked away with it, it'd be a good deal. Considering it's still got three days to go, though, it's a bit pricey (assuming I held the high bid, it's already ~$32US with shipping included) for us Yanks. It's roughly two squads of ladz - one set of Mk III, and one set of Mk IV - from the Burning of Prospero and Betrayal at Calth games.

Easy answer would be to varnish it to protect the paint from chipping.

Same as you'd do with an actual painting.

Whichever loyalist chapter your army has the biggest beef with or if you have any friends that play marines, that chapter

In the arms, of course.

>if you have any friends that play marines, that chapter
Seconding this.

Nice, you can get Custodes for 1/2 msrp price with free shipping. Who else /goinggold/ here?

Slow going but still enjoying working on this model.
I'm unsure about the leaves appearing out of the insides of her robes though, currently thinking about having them slowly blend in to turquoise, the red I normally do leaves in is a bit too similar to the robe lining

Made an attempt, considering sharpening the corers with some Orange.

Had a good idea. I can't do it, I have to many projects... but...

>youtube.com/watch?v=K5PzJhU8iI0
>French Revolution themed renegade guard
>Either pro-Tau, Chaos, or just generally uprising
>Civilian heavy in design with lots of red flags and weapons
>Heavy use of barricades

W-what models would I possibly use if I were to do this?

historicals?
Ask for appropriate minis in /hwg/. They should be able to help you out.

Magnets, how do they work?