/wip/ WIP General

WIP WORK IN PROGRESS
Crusade for St. Duncan edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This galaxy is OURS.
youtube.com/watch?v=1_wXCBDiLEA[Embed]

>Previous thread:

So lads, do you guys really get by alright using GW sprays as primers? My models keep chipping like a motherfucker.

I use them, they're expensive though

How do you motivate yourselves and break out of a block ?

I have a lot of work quite literally standing in a corner of my room, gathering dust. I was making progress but then went through a rough patch of life and stopped a few months back and while I want to paint I just can't bring myself to getting all my stuff out and starting up again. The main thing I want to continue is a warlord titan that I've completed the legs on (bar the main shin plates) but the torso, guns and head are only roughly blocked out. I seem to have built it up to an insurmountable project in my head and I just can't snap out of it.

I see cool shit on /WIP/ and feel motivated to make cool shit.

Wash the models with soapy water, then rinse them with clear water. Before priming of course.

Where's that pdf about sculpting with green stuff? Isn't it normally in the op?

Finished my first Blood Warrior, c&c welcome, would also like to know how to do blood a bit better.

The paint job looks grainy for some reason.

I dunno man, I just copied and pasted this from the last thread.

clean up that red panels, there's a few gold splatters on them.

You remembered to close those paint pots all the way, right user?

FUCK

neaten up some spots and dunk that motherfucker in some earthshade

>going from spess mereens to sylvaneth
>tfw going from trying to precision engineer the crispest, neatest highlight consistently across however many guys just to cry into my water cup, to being able to flick paint at a dryad from halfway across the room and get more than acceptable results

>painting Tau
>tfw literally every piece of infantry armour has about as much texture and potential for drybrushing/easy edge highlighting as a piece of sprue
>having to engage maximum over-autism to even highlight one leg plate
the galaxy must burn

pretty good, for the blood get whatever imitation paint you use and put some on a stubby brush and flick it towards the blade to get a spray.

painting an uesugi samurai with the monk head wrappings.

they're generally a white colored but faded. i was thinking of basing the wraps with a bleach bone color ans working my way up to white in maybe 2 or 3 layers slowly mixing my bone color with white.

any advice?

im new to the hobby and my english isn't great so sorry for my noob post.

Can anyone share advanced painting books or videos like figopedia or painting Buddha?

I've been getting this sort of gritty texture to my model when I use the primer, could it be the weather or I just didn't shake it enough?

It can help to think about where the blood should be too. Where would the weight be in the weapon? How does he swing it? Where would the blade make contact and what direction would it be moving in? Where would that smear the blood? How would the blood run down the blade after the strike, and how far, given how much blood got on it in the first place.

Could be the weather, if it's extremely hot; more likely you're not spraying close enough and the primer's drying mid air.

Ah I see, thank you it's my first time priming so any advice will help. it's been relatively cool and sunny last few days when I primed (about 14°C).

I should note that I'm not using the GW spray, (Testors spray enamel) it was cheap so that's why I got it. I'm thinking maybe I should just get GW one.

I wouldn't get the GW one. I also wouldn't use enamel as an undercoat unless it was really, really matte.

Not user you're replying to, but I sorta stopped using spray on primer altogether if I can avoid it as I've had problems like that with GW and other sprays. Using paint on primer for what I can.

Mostly to do with weather conditions but it could also be your spray yeah. GW sprays aren't necessarily any better though, as I've had the same sort of problem with them too.

Does the paint-on one only come in black?

Finally took a picture of my warboss with a non crap camera. Any advice on how I can improve it?

How is he not falling through that thin crust of lava?

zog me, boss
only thing I can think of is maybe changing the base up a little? Feels a little lackluster compared to the absolutely fucking gorgeous warboss sitting on top of it. Iunno, maybe just add a bit more contrast to it or give it a light drybrush. Maybe put some rocks down or something? Your army, tho.

GW only does black but other companies, I think Vallejo or whatever, does a bunch of different colours.

lookin' gud boss

Uhh ork magik? I used his base to try out cracked lava before assigning it to him. I also wanted to have a bland base since he's colorful enough already.

Also just noticed that he's wearing chunks of scrap from 2(3?) groups of space marines. Black Legion/Iron Warriors? and Dark Angels.He's a cheeky git and I like it.

Cool, yeah I was just wondering since I might do white primed models in the future.

I'll give the Imperial Primer a shot since I am making Warriors of Chaos for my AoS army.

Yup, and an Imperial Fist as his groin plate.
Yeah, I'm planning on putting him on some rubble bases. Something nice and grey to contrast with the model.

>getting two (you)s at once
is this what being popular feels like
you dare disrespect rogal dorn

I think that you could brighten up the bone on that trophy skull a little more, also the cooling lava he's standing on looks like crap. More white, orange, from starting in and spreading outward in that order.

Not a fan of lava bases either way since anything that close to lava would melt/burn, but these aren't my minis.

Yeah, I didn't have fun painting that skull. I wasn't confident in my knifework to remove it and potentially ruin a 30 euros mini, too. As for the base, it's temporary, wanted to try out lava bases and now that I did it, it's not really for me.

Schedule a game in a few weeks. That got me to snap out of it and start painting like a motherfucker because I hate breaking commitments and I hate fielding unpainted armies.

changed up my color scheme and tried some new techniques and i think it came out great (beakie on the left)
what do you guys think?

he looks great
also for the blood just keep adding more toward the cent of the splatter so it makes a nice thick even goo

second angle

>Where's that pdf about sculpting with green stuff?

This one?

Imperial Primer is good, make sure you get a pot that isn't a thicc blob though.

Right now I'm priming some guys black and painting over them with white, but I'd recommend just getting white primer if you ever want a white base.

I think I'm seeing mold lines!

Reposting my vets

And these 3 dudes

I know you often get memed on but I genuinely love your army.
I'm not so sure about that bolter vet sergeant conversions tho. Something about the angle of that bolter seems odd to me.

Really good job on the eyes, especially for models that size. Although the guy in the middle looks a little spooked

Working on some Heavy Gear Blitz minis. Northern Tigers in a desert camouflage configuration. This is the WOO, and the next image is the intended result (minus flocking, which needs to be done).

*WIP
Autocorrect pls

They're pretty great, love the faces.

They're moldline-tastic!

Try to get better lighting for your pics m8. Make sure you take care of mold lines too. Edge highlights look unsteady and too thick.

difference between airbrush thinner and airbrush flow improver?

I think the problem is that bolters are really big, they look weird in normal human hands. Guess that's why they usually don't have them. I hate being that guy but it looks alright in person.

One will thin your paints, making them more transparent - use this to create glazes, while the other improves their flow, letting it pass through the airbrush easier - making the paint consistency somewhat similar to a wash if used in sufficient quantities. I use both.

d'as proppa orky, d'at iz

Yeah I have a problem with how hueg guns are in 40k myself. Wish they were more truescale.

Painting Arkhan first, decided on bronze armour with gold trim for him. How's it coming out?

Moldlines. To be fair though, some of DP9's range has some serious quality control problems. More than once I've had to resculpt the whole front side of a rocket pod.

Thanks; I've got the right sized brushes for the job, but I'm gonna have to find some way to stabilize them better (my hands are a bit shaky).

Well, even flow improvers and thinners vary brand to brand.

Generally a flow improver will somewhat thin a paint without thinning out the pigment and breaking the surface tensions too much for it to cling.

Yeah I have the same problem. It might be hard for those models but try the technique where you angle the brush at 45 degrees and use the side to hit the edges, that usually helps for me

Started working on some pathfinders. Thoughts?

anus eyes

What color are their kimonos? If Yellow, I would use grey -> white for contrast. Otherwise bleached bone works well.

What system are they for?

Make sure you give the leader a command fin, like a zaku

At least post the best blue zaku, user.

Excellent color scheme!

No dear, that's not a zaku.

Neither is

THEY IS NO ZAKU, BOY

Needs some clean up but its pretty nice

Yeah those are really noticeable on the photo thanks for pointing out a couple of spots I missed as well. Will be fixed up.

Thanks!

I think my battlesuits are going be fixed up with some fancy heads now.

Im finishing my DKK sniper team/shadow of war specialist/Vindicare count as/lascannon count as.

WIll post the spotter later

Been working on an old Typhus due to Death Guard hype that I had primed a very long time ago. It's a bit grainy especially at the bone bits from whenever I primed it back then but I'm digging it. Just need to finish up a few more details.

Repainting these old guys coupled with starting on Nurgle Daemons is damn fun.

Looks amazing! Great sniper for Shadow Wars. Assuming he has 'toxic' rounds to make the chance of murderizing anything it hits almost absolute.

if your using citadel paints, the technical blood for the blood god is pretty awesome

Has anyone here used the darkstar molten metal paint range and can comment on it?

your paints, you think your thinning them, but thin them more.
besides that those some pretty kewl gundams bOss

are you trying to trigger me user?

i had a friend who bought 600 ameri-bucks on fw thousand sons a week before the announced the new models. he hasn't touched them at all.
what im getting at is how did you resist not getting rid of this knowing that gw is coming out with a new typhus model?

Oh this guy is an oldie I never got around to painting when I quit warhammer I think 7 years ago. I just recently got back into painting and was looking through my old collection of Death Guard dudes and figured I'll paint him up with a few others that were primed but not readied along with my focus on Plaguebearers. Worst case scenario I reckon is that I end up getting another Typhus.

Well.

My mind went somewhere else entirely when I saw that thumbnail.

Looks amazing! How did you get that kind of leg pose?

I need around 4-5 paints, but nowhere online seems to carry citadel paint anymore? Do I really have to pay GWs silly prices?

so I wanna make some banner poles using toothpicks


I'm not gonna have trouble painting them am I?

Its this guy with a different pair of arms taken from the firing dkk squad

Magnetic Tape good enough for sticking the Onager Dunewalker's guns onto the mini?

What paints and primers should I start with as a beginner who has a backlog of over 200 minis already?

What's the best white primer I can get? Doing primarily-red DE, and I've been burned by Rustoleum primer before.

For stuff like heavy gear I'd unironically get an airbrush.

whats off about them?

>from somebody who is getting his first box today

£7.99 for 200ml on amazon. What's the catch?

I've been working on this troll, and realized when I started painting him that his bottom teeth and fangs are missing... Anyone know any bits I could glue in there? I tried searching and couldn't really find any. I'd hate to have to try to gs it

>a backlog of over 200 minis already?
>What paints and primers should I start with
An airbrush. Start with an airbrush. You'll save more money and time than you could ever imagine.

Your models are badass, love it.

That's it. Thank you

It looks about the right size that you could maybe carve some teeth from toothpicks with a scalpel