WIP WORK IN PROGRESS /WIPG/

Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=-8cqzAUsArM
wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/09/liquidtex-matte-varnish.html
youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=N6OIQNbmzEo
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

Reposting from old thread:

Would any kind admech anons out their be willing to tell me the measurements for a kataphron battle servitor?

Been thinking of teching up some blightkings and running them as kataphrons for a dark mechanicum army but can't find any size details besides the size of he base. I don't want them to be too small.

They make steel legion drab as a nice color, I think it'll be a lot easier to work with over a large amount of individuals than mustard yellow.

I used it on the pants and the bedrolls.

Any advise for making a Repressor? Besides a Rhino base obviously.

Still looking for suggestions. Someone mentioned an improvised splint using a lasgun, but given said gun's length the model would have to be awkwardly balanced on another object. Should I pursue the rifle idea further or go with the rings-and-rods splint?

Probably just the mk2 dozer upgrade on a rhino, with different pintle weapons and some fleur de lises. That extra cab on the top is the tricky part. I wonder what the top of a taurox would look like molded on?

What kind of advice? I mean, I suppose you could try mounting a chimera turret with the heavy flamer where the Rhino's cupola generally goes.

Or you could go whole-hog and use a Chimera with the turret on the forward cupola hole (that's generally covered up by the chimera's top bit) and then cut down the upper hull piece so it fits behind the turret and finally convert the lasgun array ports into firing slits.

I guess just getting the shape right. That extended cab

First for thread theme song:
youtube.com/watch?v=-8cqzAUsArM

>found a box full of acrylic paints
>at least a few years old; paints have separated
>bottle, not tube
Are these reusable at all, or are they fucked/going to fuck up my Skitarii if I try using them?

Also, was thinking of trying for a dark blue or green for their cloaks and possibly a gold or bronze for the metal bits; what would be good complimentary colors for all the details?

Those are some surprisingly articulate orcs.

Yeah they will be really T H I C C so using an clear acrillic 'base' instead of water might be a good idea. Real art stores have that stuff. Pretty cheap, way cheaper than new GW paints.

If it's really really old, then it might be gritty, that's pretty much unfixable, but I'd still use in on terrain and such.

I'm almost done painting Krell after all this time. I'm just waiting for the 'ardcoat that I painted on the corners of the base to dry so that I can paint the edge brown (it's a resin base and the paint was rubbing off of the corners from handling).

bro you cant use acryllic paints on warhammer minis.... well you can but itll look shit

>Forgot to read second part.
I have a really neat color wheel app that lets you pic several colors and see all sorts of bizzar elaborate patterns that artist use behond just regular 'the one across'.

Hmm. I'd been led to believe that they were fine as long as they weren't tube acrylics (as they have a different composition to pot acrylics). What's the best off-brand paint so I can swing by Hobby Lobby tomorrow? Fuck if I'm buying anything Citadel that isn't named 'Nuln Oil' or 'Agrax Earthshade'.

Thanks m8, checking that out now.

I hate what they did to Stormtroopers.

I can forgive the plate mail.

I can forgive the Taurox.

I can't forgive them being turned into glory-hungry Space Marines wannabes.

Follow up to this: can you link directly to the app? This fucking 1990s layout on their website is giving me a blinding headache

>bro you cant use acryllic paints on warhammer minis.... well you can but itll look shit
Are you retarded? Citadel paints are all acrylic.

any suggestions on how to go about bejeweling a deathwing Thunderhawk

Buy a Bedazzler I guess.

>bejeweling
explain

lots of extra icons...

Bedazzle might be better term (PS not good at photoshop)

Emblazon.

Getting closer to finishing Alarielle now (if we completely ignore her wings and the giant beetle she rides).
stuck trying to decide on colours for the spear at the moment

>What's the best off-brand paint so I can swing by Hobby Lobby tomorrow?

You can't buy decent paint for tabletop miniatures games at Hobby Lobby. They don't sell that kind of product there. The squirty paint bottles you'll find at places like Hobby Lobby and Michaels, characterized by the ones seen on the right in this picture, are not good for much besides painting large pieces of terrain.

You *can* get a decent deal on brushes, provided you buy their higher-end product one at a time with a significant discount (40% or more). Just inspect the product carefully before you lay down yer hard-earned green: the open stock brushes are the best they have, but not being sealed in a package also means everybody else that got there before you had a chance to ruin them with goobers from their greasy fingers ... and stores like that don't pay their employees enough to care.

Once you get good at painting - and have likely ruined a bunch of the brushes you got from Michaels - you'll probably want to spring for some better, more expensive brushes to use instead.

You get a shitload of icons in the plastic sprues.
FW may still be selling their icon packs. If you got the cash to buy a Thunderhawk you can buy their resin icons or brass etched stuff too.
The other stuff you put on there in photoshop you can either just freehands, or if you are not comfortable with that invest in some decal paper, measure the parts you want to add symbols to and then prepare a decal sheet with the right measurements in a software of your choice before printing your custom decals.

ACHSHUALLY, my HL has a decent Vallejo rack. I would suggest swingign by the modelmaking section; at worst, they'll have Model Masters (a decent acrylic line).

>stuck trying to decide on colours for the spear at the moment
dunno, I'm getting mixed messages.
The orange and red look like autumn colors, so that would have been my first thought.
The blue works for generic magic hoodoo though, so you could just make the spear match the sword or whatever she is carrying.

You can of course just use the metal colors you used on her before too.

>most of the paints in the box are apple barrel
wew lad
guess I'll check for a modelling section per and shell out for citadel or army painter if I don't get lucky

As long as you ignore the stupid new fluff they're not bad. I actually like their models, though the monopose special weapons are obnoxious. Their rules are pretty trash though. Here's hoping 8th ed freshens them up.

>my HL has a decent Vallejo rack

I'll be darned. I get special deals from Michaels (where I buy most of my brushes and also pic related) all the time ... maybe I should check out the Hobby Lobby they just built down by the new Costco. They've never had anything but artsy-craftsy paints at the other locations I've been to, but I admit it's been a really long time.

Make sure to spam their 40% off coupon when you're in there; they mark up the prices of their higher ticket items. If you don't, you might be overpaying.

>they mark up the prices of their higher ticket items. If you don't, you might be overpaying.

I never walk into those places without at *least* 40% off. Sometimes they get sneaky, though, and put the things I want on sale while they offer me a greater (50-60%) discount, though, which means the coupon won't apply.

At $16.50 (plus shipping), this is more than I would pay, but ... please tell me one of us elegan/tg/entlemen won this!

The lack of detail just kills it for me.

I personally would use something flatter than the pole. And youd need it on both sides of the legs. Greenstuff it maybe? If thats not an option just cut them from sprues.

Rough wip of my scout sentinel. Not sure where to add more color to his legs to break it up. Should I even add more color the legs?

I think it looks fine as it is, you don't need to add any more colours.

done

What color blue is that?

p3 coal black + p3 Meridius blue + white

Does anyone have know if headswapping Sisters of Battle works out? I know that the heads are sculpted on, and I am wondering if hacking them off and replacing them with wood elf heads or something would work out. I don't have a huge issue with the SOB models outside of their faces, which are pretty bad.

The thing I hate about Model Master is that their bottles are a real pain to get open when the paint around the neck dries. They're an alright brand although I don't feel like they have quite the desired pigment density for miniature figures, though your mileage may vary on that. I used to use MM a lot when I was into custom action figures.

I think it looks rad as heck.

Only thing I'm not sold on is the red on his cape there.

My collection is mostly base coats and shades finally doing some hilighting

It's supposed to be blood stains. Might have looked a little better if I'd mixed in some brown.

Wow thats a bit much. I scored a johnny and another oop marine for $11 total on the bay of E.

yea, going for a darker almost brown red would have made it look much more like faded blood.
If in doubt just look at a fuckload of reference pictures.

I bid on it but it went just a bit too high for me, I want me a freaking johnny

They look amazing. Great bases as well.

Khorne Red is the darkest red I've got. I mixed it with a lahmian medium and water to get that effect. I could probably fix it by mixing some lamian medium and dryad bark and painting it over as a thin glaze.

Getting ready to start Talons of the Emperor box, any advice on assembly for the kits? I know the tanks inside and out but I've basically never even looked at the Custodes or SoS kits.

Rate my guard /)

couldneedsomewashesorshades/10

Add maybe some little bits of rust here and there to add some contrast?

...

One anti armour rifle team is assembled.

Update: No I'm not. Just found out they're not 8e compatible and my local GW agreed to refund me. Gotta say, pretty rad that they answered my message at half past midnight within a couple minutes.

I want to use SHAR'TOR from FW as a Daemon prince.

The musculature of his back makes adding wings problematic

Any ideas on alternatives or solutions?

Is the production date of the paint listed somewhere on Citadel paints? I just got a bunch from eBay and some of them seem chunky.

Working on this guy right now. Been getting back into painting after about a 10 year hiatus.

I went over the red stains with a thin glaze of dryad bark. Really digging how it looks now. This is basically what I was going for.

So I ordered some paints and other modelling supplies, among them a pot of nuln oil and agrax earthshade

However when my package arrived i found that both of the washes were labeled as GLOSS like pic related

Is there a noticeable difference between the regular washes and the gloss ones that I got?

The company i ordered from has pretty good customer service so getting this sorted out shouldn't be too big of an issue if need be

I didn't even know they made glossy versions of shades.

me neither

apparently because I'm an idiot i just copy pasted in the first result for nuln oil from their product spreadsheet since the order was placed right before GW allowed stores to show their products, the first result was for the gloss version so I ended up placing an order for the gloss versions without noticing so I'm stuck with them it looks like

You don't want to use the gloss. It's horrible, user.

Use glossy washes only on small surfaces made to look like glass, or oil. Best order the regular washes as well before it ruins any of your models.

I completed my Guard commander today, the rest of the command squad is coming along nicely.

what about metallics in general
my army uses leadbelcher for their primary color would it work then?
could i cancel out the glossy effect with a matte varnish?

WIP genestealer cultists. I still need to clean them up, do highlights on everything, wash the steel parts etc.

I painted them as miners ( Hence the faded hi-vis Orange safety clothing). What do you guys think?

Looks pretty good. The colors remind me of Goku

All the big paint ranges we use for miniatures are acrylic user.

You're thinking of the thick stuff with tubes that people use for canvas work, those are acrylic too.

Thin yo...
Get out GET OUT GEETOOOUUTTT
REEEEEEEEEEE

*sharts pants*

One of the Based-Chinamen still sells them... if you're into that kinda thing.... I think.

Maybe the spear is carved from the same wood that all of your dryads are made from? So the same boney white and blended red edges to the blades. As if it was an oil/paste made the the sap/leaves.

But it probably has to be blue.

Trying to Summon the Nurgle Painter here,
I want to know how he painted his demon army, with all those multi-colour shades.
Are they all just washes? I want to know for another project I am doing.

Not bad, user. Not bad.

You've got the basics down, now work on them and improve. Some of the shading/highlighting is a bit harsh and the metallics are a bit basic, but your brushwork is sound. Maybe look in the Op post for some guides and see if there's anything you can gain from those?

Are you ok user?

Tried to make my necron purple as a test for some immortals/deathmarks I have coming in to make a SW killteam.

Anything I can do to improve it? Is it too gay? I thought using Druchii Violet and Drakenhof instead of nuln/agrax would make them a little different but maybe its too far from metal looking

Working on hammering out the colour scheme for my incubi (Normal kabalite on the right). I need to clean up some of the highlights for sure when i do the actual incubi any other thoughts?

Scheme for the kabal is bone primary, blue and orangey red as my secondary and tertiary respectively.

forgot pic

go deeper.
Also there is a site that sells different coloured plastic tubes for the guns, the purple one is great.

Already ordered a few purple tubes from ebay for a couple dollars, the green one isn't glued in. Is there anyway to convert the gauss blaster the immortals have to use tubes without too much trouble?

Christ realized how shit everything looks close up in photos.

The colours are good choices. Don't forget face details like those teeth, eyes, and those tubes that go to their noses.

I'll translate anons autistic fit for you.

> genestealer user, your paints are way too thick. Especially the blue chitin, and the crevices of the face. Use two coats next time instead of one thick one.

Relax, models always look better irl. Just acknowledge it and use it as a tool for spotting things you can improve.

The main flesh colour is done with a wash, yes. I start with CMYK base colours like the pic, highlight with white then wash once with a combination of different colours. Washes are subtractive, they get darker with every layer, which is why I try and just do one wash with multiple colours to keep the colour bright and also why I use CMYK primary colours as my base. After that there are a bunch of smaller layers of yellow, red, dark blue to create shadows and bruising and layers of bone, blue and white to lighten bits that go too far.

Can we include this in the OP?
I feel there needs to be a guide on sealing your miniatures.
wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/09/liquidtex-matte-varnish.html

hmm i always thought you just painted the gauss guns do they have green plastic in them too?

everything I've seen they're painted, but the unit has yet to come in the mail so I dunno if it would be easy to snip the other tubes out and glue the purple acrylic things in

I like this pic tho, what I was thinking for my killteam

genius, would you mind posting a completed or any shot you have of them so I can have it saved if you dont mind.
When i saw them i always thought it was nurgle done right, I am so sick of just seeing beige and green

metal ones do. I assume the plastic ones are similar in size you could slot in whatever you like.

Good for you, m9. I've been back into this for a year now, and I was away since I was about 16, so 12 years. Slowly improving, watching a bunch of youtube videos and practice like your life depended on it.

Not that user, but can you post a picture of the finished work?

oh is this what you meant replacing it with the rods?

exactly

They're actually nice. You can mess about with gloss varnishes, gloss washes and then matt varnishes to produce some cool results.

This video shows you how it looks

youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=N6OIQNbmzEo

do you like first miniature?