/wip/ thread

>Cooking or food terms can be good like Brioche, Braise, Baste, Brown, Brulee, ect.

How about "Mug"? "Mug Costanza"?

youtube.com/watch?v=NRUdaWZ4FN0

What's the best way to Alpha Legion? Blue + super watered down green?

The first boy of the new and improved Purple Moon clan for the new edition, ready for stompin'!
How's he looking? First Ork I've painted since back in 5th edition.

thin paints a little more
Maybe use more colors for a gradient effect, or just slowly add white/black to it each time.
you can highlight some of those black areas with a realllly dark grey and it might help it a little?

Just my 2 cent

For what it's worth though, it looks pretty good.

And a look at the back.
Yes I know I posted this in the 40k general

Archmagos senpai notice me!!!

And as a little bonus, one of my old Orks compared to the new one
I love looking back at your old minis and seeing obvious improvement

Focus your camera

>TWO titans
[is disgusted in poorfag]
Nice work, user. Can we get some closeup?

Currently struggling with gesso to get even coats. Spray primer fucks up with white but works fine with black. No airbrush, nor money for one, nor space for one, nor ventilation anywhere I COULD make space.

Any tips for priming a flat, even white?

Reminder that fire warrior shoulderpads are the devil's work. And the strike team ones are fucking ugly as well.

a bit rubbish, or at least your michael-j-fox-cam makes it LOOK rubbish. get some washes on that boy's face man

hey WIP folks, I'm going to be buying some greenstuff and a roller from greenstuffworld, probably, and I'm thinking about actually buying some tools - I've made do with improvised tools thus far. Do you have any recommendations as to tools that are really essential or probably not worth it?

I want to make a Hua Yuanese Genestealer Cult and a small Exterminator kill team, how would you go about painting this scheme as well as more "asian" skin?

The less obnoxious uniform, but probably not the one I'm going to go with

It looks great, but i would thin down the highlighting on his right knee. It's a single line that can improve front view of the model A LOT

Making a kitbashed commissar (left) and eversor assassin (right) based on RPG characters I've got. I've painted the Assassin which I'll upload in a bit

also I think it should be said these two are my first attempt at higher-quality painting and kitbashing

Also sorry for shitty phone quality
how's it look /WiP/?

I like the teal/obnoxious version better. If done right, it could be garish in a good way.

Asian skin, idk. Pallid Wych Flesh would probably be the go, stay away from darker washes, highlight a few lighter layers. I guess it depends what kind of Asian you're going for.

>Eversor assassin
>just a Scion
>not even a skull face
Ged the fug oudda here.

>implying I give a shit

I do what I want, I'll field him as a Space Woof chaplain if I want to

>WHTV Tip of the Day
>last video was two days ago

Buy cheap modeling spatulas.

I've shaken and tapped my models to get rid of all the excess sand on their bases, but I'm curious about the layer of extremely fine grit left that clings to the surface of the base (the sort of fine dust that you can only notice is there by touching it).

Will an application of primer be enough to seal that down and stop any flaking of paint on the base, or do I need to seal it down properly like I would with flock using some watered down pva?

Seriously, give up on sand and start using the citadel basing stuff.

I am so glad to see that paint-sucking shit material go. Never looked back.

Use texture paint AND sands of varying coarseness for the most natural look. Vallejo makes some good stuff.

I don't mind the pointers anons, but I just want to know if primer alone is sufficient to seal dust.

I don't see why it wouldn't.

Where from? I live in australia, and haven't seen anything like that in the right kind of scale anywhere

Okay I finished the guy on the left.
>inb4 thin your paints

thinning paints aside, how does it look? it's the first time I've made a face and I had to do it 4 times over

Need to highligth the edges, and do the eyes. But im calling these guy finished. Thougths?

Lord Duncan is busy handing out tips, live in person to the Beloved Select.

Yeah I think those are just some poor shots, I'm get better ones in the future.
On that note, I tried to do some facepaint on one of the boyz. I applied Agrax after putting on Xereus Purple, but it doesn't seem to darken all that much. How does it look? Picture any better?

The only complain I have is the thickness. It looks really good otherwise.

Face doesn't look to bad, could do with a wash.

Also make sure you close your paints fully, I can see 3 in that pic aren't closed. You'll dry out your paints otherwise.

looking swanky, user. the bone leaves much to be desired tho, could use with some darker washes

thanks my dudes

Incubi darkness + athonian camoshade + waywatcher green glaze + moot green drybrushed as highlights

And then leadbelcher/nuln oil wash for the silver parts

Pic related is my Arkos the faithless

My camera sucks and doesnt show the blueness of his armor well. But it looks better irl with better lighting

Not enough colours, the details of the mini are lost. Need more highlights to accentuate the armor and clothes. Also don't do eyes before doing washes. Usually you want to do the eyes last in the face after the washes are set and create a good shadow around the eye sockets.

Ezikiel Goldwing.

he is great. met him at the fest.

Alright guys. I just got into 40k a couple of weeks ago after lurking on Veeky Forums for a year. I started a bt army. Painting turns out to be another harder than I thought and I want some tips and ways I can improve

Pic related is the first model I have ever painted, I know it's pretty bad so don't get to savage with the criticism please.

Also how do I stop my hands from shaking when painting? It's like I have fucking parkinsons.

Uhk. It's fucking sideways, kill me now.

Hopefully this one isn't sideways.

...

I like it. Now give it a good base and you'll thank me

...

I want to make it a sand base with little tuffs of grass here and there and then spread vallahaln blizzard or whatever it's called

This is my second one, I'm also happier with how this one turned out

...

...

Thin your paints. Get a smaller brush for the eye lenses

Okay. I'll start thinning my paints.

Clean the eyes area with black. Try to highlight the edges like the helmet, fingers, knees and sides of the backpack. Also you need to paint the chains and the boltgun in a different color.
The robes could do some cleanup with bone white in the rised areas.
Finally you need to tidy up the chains in the left hand, specially where it meets the sword. Also i recommend to wash the gold on the sword and the chains.
A good trick with BT is to not glue the shoulderpads and prime them with white, while the actual model can be primed with black or grey.
The basics on mini painting are about techniques and patience. At this level the only skills you really need is how to thin the paints properly, followed by the use of washes and how to highlight. Good tools are important though.

I shall take your advice on-board. Thanks.

What about the uniform? What paints would you use?

Solid first Templar, welcome to the Crusade brother! As the others told you before, try thinning your paints, dont use them out of the pot. For shaky hands, try resting your elbows on the table or chair, helps me a lot. I have a nice BT armor painting guide, can post it if you want.

Yes please.

Not mine, the honour and the tribute should go to madmatt with his perfect BT....

Step 1: Basecoat
I don´t use 2k-basecoats on my Templars. I use one or two thin layers of GW Chaos Black from the spray can.

Step 2: Removing the black gloss
I don´t like the glossy black of GWs Chaos Black Spray, but I really love how it sticks to the plastic. That´s why I use it. To remove the gloss, I mix a very watered down mix of Revell Aqua Color Matt Black (you can use Chaos Black instead if you don´t have any of those Revell colors). Then I add some small drops of Badab Black and a tiny brushtip of Graveyard Earth. The mini gets a 2nd thin basecoat with that mix and all of the gloss should be gone. Great. A positive side effect wil be that the next layers of color will stick better to your mini :-)

Step 3: Pre-defining Lightreflexes
As I find it really hard to get smooth transitions when painting light colors on black I try to do this step quite quickly achieving a rough base for light-reflexes in the later process of painting. I mix a watered color of milky consitency from Adeptus Battlegrey, a little bit of Kommando Khaki, some Bleached Bone and a tiny little droplet of Badab Black. Sorry, there is no exact recipie as I always mix my colors indiviually, so that there are always minor differences in color tones to represent, that some of them are more worn-off than others. Well, as you can see in the picture, apply this mix generously to the surfaces that shall get a black to grey transition late on. When you have finished this step, your minis will look really messy. Don´t worry, that´s about to change in step 4...

1/2

Step 4: Defining light-reflexes and smoothing the transitions
Now it´s time to use the rests of your mix from step 2. I put layer after layer over the areas that have to get darker again. Therefore it´s important to use the "flat" side of the brush with little paint on it only. The strokes must be directed towards the darker regions of the part thats being painted. This is really time consuming. Don´t overdo it, because, then you´ll have to counterpaint with lighter color again. There´s another reason not to overdo this: Most likely you´ll add some battledamage later. Nevertheless, try to get smooth transitions and it´s quite helpful to put the mini under harsh white light form above and take some photos if you aren´t sure where to put the centre of light reflexes...
Once the smoothing is finished, add some more chaos black to your color mix, to make it a harder black again and put some blacklining into the darkest corners of your mini.

This helped me a lot for the start... If you add your own flavour and style you can painnt some wonderful minis!

but i mostly skip step 2...

i also got a more detailed tutorial for every part of the mini, but it would be too long to post here...

Damn, this is good. Thanks for posting this I'm going to try it out.

don't give up, the first minis never turn out as good as you want,good results take time and lots of minis painted!

Thanks man, I'll just have to practice alot. Painting high Marshall helbrect is going to be a pain. Just looking at his detail I think I'll paint him last.

So i drank the cool aid and got a lot into the 40k 8th edition thing. And decided to plan a plague doctor themed Admech army cause of the deathguard thing.

this is my first test, i never sculpted with greenstuff so dunno, i think i will need a lot more exercise to get it right.

do you guys have any suggestion on other stuff to add on the theme other than plague masks?

sry forgot the rest...

Step 1: Accentuating the edges
Having finished the light reflexes on the surfaces it´s time for accentuating the edges of the armour. Therefore I use a mix of Fortress Grey and Bleached Bone which is watered down a little bit, but not to "runny". So paint with the flat side of the brush and only little amount ouf color around all important edges an put some dots onto the rivets. Be careful to make the accents as narrow and decent as possible!

Step 2: Sponge(bob) technique
I used to use an old blister sponge for this, but in the times of "fine"cast it´s quite hard to get your hands on those :-(. My wife uses some yellow square kitchen sponges for washing up (really looking much like Spongebob [I mean the sponge, not my wife!!!]). Those are great surrogates. I tear of a little bit, take it with the pincers and dip it into pure, unthinned Chaos Black. Then I remove the recesses by pressing it onta some kitchen paper, before carefully, I repeat CAREFULLY, applying my battledamage to the armour by dipping the sponge onto the surfaces. Really: BE CAREFUL! You don´t want to destroy your work you´ve done before. On the other hand, battledamage is quite helpful to cover minor mistakes at the light reflexes. Great. If you want to have a more scratchy look, then you can use a detail brush to paint on some more damagey by hand.

Step 3: Accentuating the battledamage
Now you apply thin lines (the thinner, the better!) directly under the black dots and scratches. Therefore you should use the mixture of Step 1 of this tutorial. Et violà, battledamage is finished. Surely you could go further, adding some rusty pigments or start with oil colors so that the damage looks older and more grimy. But I don´t want that on my templars and so, it´s time to stop here and finish all the other details on the mini

Sweet thanks.

This is my current BT army so far.

Thanks guys, I'll go over the highlights again. I'll do the rest of the squad too, painted these a while ago.

Any idea on how I should base them? I don't really want to do lava.

I never understood the vibrant green with vibrant purple color schemes, looks horrible. Model itself looks okayis, paint is a bit thick, and lacks highlights. also, drill that barrel.

I was going through the pictures, and the guy on the left commented on fb, apparently he's 6ft7 outside of the armor and 7ft with the armor. The SM is leaning a bit on the picture but goddamn Duncan is one tall bastard.

Clan what ?
Also there's no ork in that pic, just a messy painting table

The Crusade is eternal! Keep up the work, but i would try doing the robes and tarbards in an color like ushabti bone highlighted with screaming skull... overall i like where this is going!

Desert, or Hive City, make it an Armageddon themed force.

:) Thanks.

So i'm trying my hand at scratch-building a Hq/for fun model, i'll clean up the hood with some sandpaper later, i'll also post the base i'm working on for him.

>tfw for a second I thought that scroll said "HONK"

And here is the base

Do urban. Streets and rubble and shit.

That*s really cool for a first try, it's allot better then my first. as for what else you could add some more steam-punky stuff. Tophats maybe?

I have no idea what this is going to be.

Was flicking through an old white dwarf and uncovered our Spiritual Liege

There's nothing wrong with using automotive spray primer, right guys?

I've been using plastic touch-up paint for years, so if you keep the right distance you should be fine i guess.

For the past few years, I've used Duplicolor Sandable Primer exclusively. It's cheaper than GW, goes on nice and smooth and the cans have a good amount of paint in them. As long as you get a can that doesn't go on too thick, you should be fine.

maybe i will change it, however it depends on his actions on the battlefield

Where's the horse skull from?

well I didn't want some of the details to be very visible (like the lines on the scion armor) so that works well

I hear all this talk about doing washes, how is this done? The most I've ever painted is mass-produced guardsmen that are all tabletop worthy

Hey everyone,

I've been paining models casually for a while, but I have never read up on how to be a genuinely good model painter. I pour some paint onto a piece of plastic and slather it on my model, then do some drybrushing and inking to add depth. It is serviceable, but now I would like to try and get serious about painting. I still hold the model with my grimy fingers which leads to a lot of primer being removed, and I notice that my paint is often chunky on the model, which leads me to believe I am using too think of paint or I am not applying it correctly.

Could anyone point me to some good beginner guides that go right to the basics (including how thin/thick your paint should be), and perhaps some basic instruments like vices that can be used to hold a model without getting finger grease all over the primer/paint?

No tutorial is too basic, I probably have a lot of bad habits that I developed from winging it for many years, so any chance to unlearn and correct some bad behaviours is great.

i got it from the really old chaos space marine starter box, but i'm guessing you could get one from a vehicle accessory kit if nowhere else