WIP WORK IN PROGRESS /WIPG/

Cranked out some more Warriors of Chaos today. How do you think they compare to the first one I did? I think they're a lot more lively and visually interesting.

Thanks, I based Astrogranite, painted it rhinox hide, drybrushed ushabti bone than washed agrax.
after that i glued the bushes on.
After that I drybrushed Mourn mountain snow all over the bases, you can also use valhallan blizzard.

paint the black areas on the horns and add a wash, then highlight.

just my 2 cents

Yeah I think I was spraying too close to the models, the primer dried in a quite uneven state on the model

Yeah, I didn't plan ahead with my base/layer/highlight colouring, so my layer colour is stormhost silver, which is what my highlight colour should be.

I'm gonna spray some oven cleaner on them and start again with a darker base/layer combo.

Thnx for the input.

Okay guys, so here is my new, revised plant for painting plate armour:

>Black Primer
>Leadbelcher mixed with abaddon black as the base coat
>Wash with nuln oil to fill in all the creases
>Ironbreaker as the layer coat (everywhere except for creases and joints)
>Stornhost silver mixed with a small amount of white for highlights

This sound like a good approach?

Thank you.

priming models with spray primer is a meme

do what this user said

>priming models with spray primer is a meme

What kind of crack have you been smoking?

plastic crack user

90% of my army wasnt spray primed

I mean, I don't spray prime either, but spray priming isn't a meme tons of people do it and recommend it.

lol
by definition it *technically* is a meme

but yea you are right there isnt really anything wrong with spray priming

desu sometimes i wish i had some just so i could prime en mass

Speaking of spray priming, any anons here got any good brands for spray priming?

looks like he may have been baiting considering the image he posted there...
if you are not just posting random people's stuff, but using random filenames...well, I wouldn't take painting advice from you.

The army painter cans work well.
There is quite a bit more in there than in the GW cans.
Depending on where you are paints from your local hardware store may be useful too.

I'm a cheap cunt and I prime with spray primer for plastic car parts
works both on plastic and metal
100% dandy for quarter the price a can

FLGS owner recommended P3 to me last time I was in.

Drys similar to GW spray, is actually a "primer", and costs maybe 5 bucks less. Been working for me so far. I used GW Chaos black or Army Painter before that.

tfw i dont even have the "stay hydrated" meme pic to post

but yea its me, the vraks/red scorpions shitter who ironically posts my unironic bad painting skills

I heard that Krylon is good for priming. I just picked up a can myself. It also comes in a variety of colors

Alright lads.
What concentration should I use for stripping minis with simple green?

I am wondering this as well

Model railroad recommended me Rustolium, super cheap.

Is it possible to remove paint from just a small part of a miniature? A friend of mine is upset after painting the face of their miniature a way they didn't like, but the rest of the miniature is really awesome.

You can, if you are really careful.
Take a toothbrush or a tiny one of those toothcleaning things that are hookshaped and load that with acetone.
Then out a drop form your brush onto the face, let it sit for a second and gently and carefully start scrubbing.

This is not clean however. It will most likely leave unseemly edges.

I'd only advise doing this if you already painted several times over a face and you are losing detail.
Repainting a face a few times without stripping should not be an issue.

And if you are dealing with a plastic miniature you should know that acetone will dissolve plastic.
If you just have a thin layer of acetone on there it will evaporate before damaging the plastic, if it collects in crevices, say eyesockets for example you'll want a cup of water to rinse the mini in nearby.

Stripping should be kind of a last resort though. As I said repainting a face once or twice shouldn't be a problem. Just go back to the basecolor and cover it back up and start over again.

What do you mean concentration? You just dunk it in and wait a day. That's how I do it.

Alright, thanks. My friend got really upset about it, even to the point of throwing it out (I saved it), which is a damn shame because the model was painted really well for their first time. Hopefully when they calm down your advice helps.

Venoms are way more fun to paint than raiders. Should I do more to the shiny helmet? What about dude's eyes? Can't make up mind

Is your friend an eight year old?

Jesus, at least you have some sense

No but they have episodes of serious emotional issues, due to a combination of hereditary mental illness and childhood trauma

I want to ask before trying: I have a texture paint that is glossy and I don't want it to be glossy. Will putting my Agrax Earthshade make it... not glossy?

probably unless its agrax gloss or whatever. you might need some matte sealer too depending on just how shiny

Perfect. Thanks for the info.

Bases ought to be fine in whatever stripping fluid, right?

For sure. I drop the whole mini in even with a base covered in shitty driveway sand and gravel basing. makes the glue weaker and as a cheap bastard I don't have to buy a bunch of new bases. The black plastic ones do get noticeably weaker in there though until they dry out - I treat them gently

The best thing about P3 primer is the nozzle pattern.

Helmet looks fine to me, as for your fella's eyes, maybe red to add a little splash of bright color?

First time painting, I suck at it. Using castellan green for my plates, was going for a jungly vibe. Original plan was to use abaddon black for cloth areas, but it's looking too dark; considering swapping to a grey or tan?

Am I thinning enough? Too much? I've been doing several light coats.

What in the world do I do with his toenails? Tried ushabti bone, you see how that turned out.

About to try using athonian camoshade wash on my green, then Loren Forest for highlighting.

Annnd it's sideways.

looks like you're thinning a bit too much, but it's smooth, just uneven. Which is good! it's easier to just add a bunch of too-thin coats then fuck your shit up with globby paint.

Black's fine, it'll just need highlights. Same with the green. Toenails, cant really help you - fucking hate them on anything, they always look shitty. My advice is to make them dark and downplay them - lots of nuln/agrax/etc.

Thank you very much!

Some assorted Deatchwatch with a WIP Hawk Lord, and Howling Griffon in the top right.

that's.. not the hawk lords symbol

great faces, smooth and vibrant colors, but the black highlighting is rough. I struggle with it as well so "it looks shitty" in the nicest way possible

How's that looking? About ready for wash?

yes for the feet, but just wash the recesses on the armor, its already pretty dark - check out a recent dunc where he does a focused wash if you're unsure

I know, but I had already used the right one on a Raven Guard.

WE WUZB KNIGHTS N SHIET

I like your space sharks face a lot.

It's like if you mixed an albino, an ork, and a shark.

I had actually been considering blacking over the goes and just using the same color at the cloth. Or is the lighter tan okay here? Only washes I have are Nuln and Athonian.

Tried specifically washing the armor recesses, I think it went well?

Does anyone know what kinda red the Red Hunters are meant to be?

you picked up some definition for sure. next (big) step is edge highlighting with a somewhat lighter green. Also that space chicken's tootsies need another coat or two

Thanks! I have some loren and some straken ready for highlighting. I actually just finished doing another couple coats on the toes, followed by a nuln oil wash. I think they actually look non-awful now.

Evil Sunz Scarlet or equivalent. It's a bold dark red, but only very slightly dark. So not bright red, not dark red.

Bonus pic of the horrors my gf is basecoating

I need a finer brush for highlights. Is that the basic idea, though?

Getting ready to try some details like Sept markings.

what about Mephisto red?

>I need a finer brush for highlights. Is that the basic idea, though?
Basic idea is there, yeah.
Try holding your brush at an 45° angle and painting with the side of it on raised edges. Quick and easy way to get clean lines.

The smaller brush may help, but with a good brush (i.e. one that can hold a tip) you should be able to paint thin lines without problems.
Well, at least in theory. If you are a beginner you would probably need to practice your brush control quite a bit.

This is literally the first time I've used a paintbrush since middle school, and I have naturally poor fine motor control. There is going to be a learning curve. Thank you for the advice!

speaking of crack and plastic... I know crack prices where I live and gram for gram HQ characters/expensive models are worth roughly the same as crack

Yeah, that's about the same color.

Any ideas for what to replace a DV Cultist's pistol arm with? Friend gave me his entire DV half to me for free, and I wanted to make them into my own warclan of Nurgle.

replace them for what purpose? To get rid of the pistols?
You can always just cut those off and do a little carving until their hands look like closed fists.

If you got some Plaguebearers, maybe you have some left over arms to nurgle them up at the same time?

What's the best way to paint in runes in the fuller of a sword? A watered down wash of sorts?

the change in fur and leather color helped a ton, much less monochrome, doing some washes on the horns like said or some brighter silver highlights to the edges of the shields might be the only thing i'd add, looks good though

>be 9-5 M-F wagecuck
>all week think to myself "I can't wait until I get home from work on Friday so I can stay up all night painting minis and start getting rid of that backlog!"
>got home early
>"let me just browse Veeky Forums for a few minutes, then I will get started"
>almost midnight and I'm still funposting

Oh hey user, I saw you when you posted your army in one of the general threads. Have you considered using the Genestealer Cults rules (temporarily) for your lost and the damned? At least till Forgeworld releases the book for them? (I think they're supposed to be included in the astra militarum forgeworld index) You'd get rules for your chimera and your russ, and you could use the iconward, magus, and primus profiles for your hqs. Just a thought.

I they are sculpted as groves then yeah that may work.
Otherwise the usual rules for freehand apply.
Sufficiently thinned paint that it flows nicely and then you start lettering.

I've been feeling ill and haven't gotten much done, but I'm trying to break the "build and never paint" cycle. Had to stop early since I couldn't really keep myself upright.

Should I make one of the kneepads the same Rakarth Flesh as the shoulders? Planning on dirty-blond hair, finishing the red on the Phantasm Launcher, and a Sotek Green-based banner for this squad. Just want it to be balanced.

You need to thin your paints man. Look at the upper far left guy. You can see the script on his shoulder pad (and even then, it's already a bit thick). Now look at the Howling Gryffon. The script is blotted out because the paint is so famn thick. It'll help you get nicer highlights on the black as well.

I should have been more clear, one of the guys' arms have been lost.

What else do you have?
if you got some IG bits it should be an easy fix.

>Army Painter Warpaints
>Vallejo Game Color
>Vallejo Model Color
Which one is best?

Any ideas for alternative possessed models for CSM? Now that they don't suck I would like to get some but I cant stand the models.

None is really better than the other.
AP warpaints are neat cause the sprays are matched to the brush on paint.
VGC is the old GW pallette of colors. Strong bright colors.
VMC is nice cause they have loads of different browns and red. Aimed at historical modelers, so the colors tend to be a bit muted.

In terms of quality there is no difference afaik. Depends on what you want to do.

my workshop build is taking shape at least virtually.

i still wanna do a 1200x600 paint rack just so i can have all my droppers right in front of me.
Honestly cant wait to have this cut at this poitn and get back to painting miniatures.

I know that feel bro.

I am liking Army Painter stuff just because their kits are decent. And the paint bottle are good since they are blotters rather than the GW paint pot style.

Only drawback is that some of the kits you will get are old at this point and the paints really need shaking up before that first use.

I have a similar problem and came up with a solution by fighting my own impulses. I get distracted easily around my computer too, but I also can't stand unpainted minis, so I put two and two together, and now my WIP dudes sit on my computer desk. After a while I get so disgusted with them being there that I force myself to paint them. It's actually worked extremely well for me.

Of the ones you listed, VMC > AP >>> VGC

None of them are too great. You want real good paints? Get Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Game Air, Darkstar, mig acrylics, or Secret Weapons Miniatures.

I will give some honorable mentions to Scale75 Scalecolor and Tamiya, but they have the same problems as VMC, namely being too thick.

Is there a way to do this alpha legion style of painting with the color over silver, only really dark? I want my stealth suits to have the same metallic look as the rest of my army but darker and sneakier

So, I found a polish recaster on ebay. Someone ever had any experience? I'm tempted, because it's half the price of forgeworld, but who knows how good Ivans recast in his backyard actually is?

Maybe using a darker silver base? That or some dark washes might do it.

>buying recasts off eBay that's not a good recast trying to be passed off as authentic

You pay more for a shittier cast compared to other recasters.

Maybe make the emblem some other color? Green is cold color so maybe red or yellow? Looking decent so far, keep it up!

>Model Air
>Game Air
Do I need an airbrush to use those or do they work fine with a brush?
Sorry, somewhat new to all this. I just want a decent, less expensive alternative to Citadel stuff, which is all hilariously overpriced from what I can tell.

They can be used with a paintbrush, they are simply thinned out for you already. However if you need to use the color for something like drybrushing or chipping, better to buy the non-air version as you can't "thicken" Air paints but you can thin down non-Air paints yourself.

What about using a metallic medium?

Well, fuck it. I'm trying it. At worst I lose about 25€, at best I get something that holds up to FW for half the price. Especially after those fuckers are squatting my chapter anyway. I'll see.

Best of luck to you. Hopefully it's a fairly retard-proof sculpt with few details to fuck up.

It's two characters. The pictures look good, but as I said, I'm not sure. The guy also has loads of other FW stuff, doesn't look to shabby. But recasters are quite a gamble.

how do you even order from Z