Work in Progress General - WIP

Countdown to PMIP (Primaris Marines In Progress) T-minus 7 days edition (also WIP)

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Possession of this Galaxy is Mankind's birthright
youtube.com/watch?v=9QdnDO5aCM4

>Previous Threads:

wtf someone actually made a new thread before the old one died

How are Vallejo paints?

depends on what you want to know.

All their ranges are at least competent at what you need them to do.
Model Color is a more muted, "realistic" range, while Game Color has stronger, bolder colours.

Some paints are better at specific things than others, for instance the Model Air Metallic paints are really nice, the Model Color metallics not so much.

Though for a cool finish Vallejo Metal Color is really nice, though that range is still fairly limited.

WIP techpriest

Mostly how they stack against Citadel paints. From my understanding VGC tries to emulates Citadel's color range. I'd like to see two minis painted with analogous colors but can't seem to find any.

Game Color is emulating the previous series of GW paints, not the current one.
Vallejo didn't redo their range when GW switched manufacturers.

Some kitbashed inquisition henchmen, ganger, noble & vet.
Fuck knows if i'd ever use them but I just fancied messing around a bit in my bitz box

In that case since I only have old GW paints I should go VGC to get mostly the same colors?

trying to be blanch/10

please tell me that's grey primer and you're not painting on bare plastic
please

>too hot to paint
>go to the shop to buy a kit to occupy my weekend instead
>come home and find out my glue's gone dry
just one of those fuckin' days

I have a bit of an usual request, I'm painting a Kastelan as they've really grown on me.

I wanted to paint some kind of ... "Targeting Matrix" in his view face monitor

Anyone with any skill care to have a go at something? I just can't think of anything that'd look good. Appreciate any help, thanks.

a dozen green stuff bumps you paint up like gems?

I've finished my first nurgle marauder, I reckon he'd look alright standing with my Blight kings when I get them done.

Err neither? I had the body already partially painted but couldn't decide what to add. Only just now added the rest, will basecoat the plastic first, don't worry.

oh. carry on, then

...

Where's the upper body from?

Crypt Horror kit with arms from flagellants and a cultist

all of them look nice

Ooh that looks kinda cool

I apologize for the shit photo, but finally finished up this Magos.

First time working with Martian Ironearth. Not sure I like it. Should probably have added something else to break up the monotony.

Looks pretty good user, maybe some bigger rocks of the same colour?
I would also add a bit of red dust on the lower half f the model itself, but it'sd matter of taste.

The colour looks a little flat on the base, maybe just a quick wash of something on it might help?
Otherwise he's looking really good, nice work

Show your progress.

The two on the left are the first minis I have ever painted a year back. The two on the right are my most recent ones.

Share what you got.

Thanks. I think a wash is a good idea, I'll try that.
And in the future I'll definitely be adding something to break up the base. I've got some winter grass tufts here - think that would work? Could go a little ways towards doing something about all that red. I'm just worried that something like that could grow on a surface like that.

A wash or a drybrush in a lighter color might help out a lot in breaking the base up.

How'd I do?

>knock over one of your bitz boxes
>it's the one with the sprue shavings and little details like bolts that you cut off
>no vacuum cleaner for at least a week

But extremely difficult. The amount of brush control you'll need would be staggering.

...

Looks pretty good, might want to use some shades though.
2nd company's my favourite

Hardwood/tile, short pile, or long pile?

If hardwood/tile, take a laser pointer or a flashlight and sweep it across the ground. It'll hit any small objects and light them up. For really tiny objects you might need to use a mirror to get the beam parallel to the ground.

Short pile, take a roll of packing tape and run it along the carpet. It might take a few passes but you'll find everything. Alternatively, put a pair of pantyhose over your vacuum cleaner's tube and use that to suck up bits.

Long pile, you're fucked.

Working on a questor knight. Although is armor is of new bronze, his helmet is a rusty relic and shield if of old, cracked marble. His sword is of shimmering obsidian. Anyway, I'm hoping the painting reflects these effects. Is there any way I can improve?

Needs to be mor thicc

Nice red OSL on the eyes, that's a highly advanced technique.

technique looks good but those colours clash too much i feel

I agree with , right now it kinda looks like a statue

Actually that's what I'm going for. He's supposed to emulate a statue and stay unmoving until he's activated to kill and slaughter.

Well then, good work!

Done with the base coat (except the vexilla pole and device atop it) and washes. Onwards to highlights!

So I did a wash with agrax, then drybrushed with Bugmans Glow and Cadian Fleshtone, and it looks leagues better.

Now on to the 10 Skitarri and the Dunecrawler.

I just burned out re-layering my basecoat because I was too lazy to do the washes neatly. I kept telling myself "you should slow down with these washes or you will regret it, like always" but then I was like "nah fuck that" and slopped the wash into the crevices, and now I have to basically re-basecoat the whole model again except for the washed crevices, and it's on the Tartaros Terminator legs with all the crevices and armor plating levels that's burning me out.

So basically what I'm trying to say is, did you do careful pin washes, or did you just slop on the wash and re-layer yellow?

where do you get the helmet under the arm arm.

Kinda shit photo, but hey, I accomplished something today.

Yes, the one on the left has highlights.

Still more to go, but getting there

Looking very nice, even with what you've got now. I'd personally have done the jaw a separate color from the rest of the face (and the face could use a little more in the way of spot color in general), but the effect looks quite good.

My wife also wanted the jaw metallic, I might oblige still havent decided

>my wife

Is everyone who seems to paint really well married? It's a common trend I've noticed.

Both activities imply a lot of patience and time I guess

My first sergeant vs my most recent. I'm happy with him, except for the face.

>implying that's a good paintjob
>implying people who can't even get their shit together enough to paint properly are going to be able to land a spouse

Its from the Empire Knights box

I'm wanting to do a custom tyranid strain, how does the pale grey like the space wolves armor work for an arctic themed tyranids army?

I build a lot of terrain for my FLGS.

I tell them I do it because I like to play on decent terrain.

I think the real reason I do it is because when I do a good job, they all thank me and tell me I'm good at it.

No one else in my life does that.

Black Templar truescale attempt. First time for me working with greenstuff. Going pretty well so far.

Using Termi legs, enlarging the torso a bit, added some additional greenstuff for extra height. Small base is only used for a proper comparison with the scouts.
I will add some plasticard to the feet, to gain an additional millimeter or so.

Not sure if I am happy with the standard shoulderpads though. All in all the proportions seem reasonable but I think I will at least try the terminator shoulder pads with the next one and see what looks better.

Chicks really do dig well-painted minis. I wouldn't say it quite as a blanket statement but most women enjoy some variety of art and craft, and they appreciate the effort and skill involved. I'm not even remotely talented at painting but I'm minimally viable and the other half loves my work. I showed her pic related as a sort of "gauge her reaction" and she was actually impressed at the skill rather than incensed at the lewdness.
>inb4 miniature tits on a blue board are grounds for PROMOTIONS

Looks kind of like this

LOOK AT THAT WOOD GRAIN

>bought a clip-on macro lens to potentially improve mini closeups
>it has too much macro

Is there any good ways to paint freckles on 28mm? I accidently a ginger and she needs freckles.

no.

>Is everyone who seems to paint really well married?
No.

Source on the piece so I can admire the artist's other works?

Just no.

Shins are insanely short and out of proportion with the thighs, you've already got tiny head and hands syndrome and you want to make it even bigger.

Get over your manlet syndrome or buy some fucking Primaris.

Same way you sponge paint chips, just a single dab on each cheek and STOP. Do a few practise runs on a base painted the same flesh tone to get your freckle colour and paint load right.

I think it might be better if you extend the kneegaurds up

Some rando on the 'Eavier Metal facebook page. Don't go there unless you want to hate your own work more than you already do.

>go there
>first post, 100% scratch sculpted green stuff Ninja Turtles diorama

IT'S NOT FAIR THEY SHOULD GIVE US LIKE 1% OF THEIR SKILL

THIS IS LIKE WATCHING BILLIONAIRES WASTE MONEY WHILE LIVING IN A SHACK

>"WIP, still lots to do"

YOU WERE WARNED

>Airbrushed Metal

You know I'm not saying airbrushes are cheating or don't take skill, but you have to wonder why 100% of the best painters use them.

They're a tool you sorely miss from your repertoire if you don't have them. Nothing on earth beats an airbrushed enamel primer; it cures hard as stone and won't obscure even the most insane details. I'm just dipping my toes into techniques like preshading after decades of airbrushing my basecoats and the idea of rattle cans of Chaos Black still turns my stomach. I've no doubts that people have mastered that technique but I'd be losing my shit the entire time over the lack of control and resisting the urge to put the nozzle into little nooks to ensure they've got good coverage.

>using enamels/lacquers without an airbrush

Do people actually do this? Those poor bastards.

you can totally do this with the right thinner/cleaner you tard. people have been doing it with model cars for ages

>having to buy random toxic thinners and use shitty synthetic brushes

No thanks.

>for ages
>implying anyone does it these days

We used to hunt with sticks and stones and made cave paintings with animal feces, doesn't mean it's good.

nigga are you fucking stupid or something? you dont need shitty brushes if you airbrush the enamel. Also, just buy a fucking respirator, you should have one anyways, theyre under $40

I assume he means drilling that barrel. What a fucking hack.

>you dont need shitty brushes if you airbrush the enamel

...

>without an airbrush
>WITHOUT

>you dont need shitty brushes if you airbrush
>without an airbrush
>WITHOUT

Are there any tips for edge highlighting?
I'm not great at painting anyway, but doing up some Deldar and I seem to be hitting the bottom part better than the top. Just awful at it.

Hold your brush at an angle and hit the edges with the side of your bristles.

Always try using the side of the brush. Never the tip. Don't be afraid to move the model every which way to get where you need to. It doesn't need the be the center of the brush, either- so long as it's on the side you should be alright.

I'm keen to try out SW:A. Here's some BT neophytes I'm working on for that.

Scout heads are fucking garbage and BT can thematically get away with the Bretonnian errant knight hats. Have 12 or so but all are just at similar head and hand swap stages.

Need to attempt some tabards in GS on a couple of them.

Thoughts on where I can take this other than just using the BT sprue? I will accessorize with that but keen for some other ideas. I've got a few scrolls and what not from the WHF flagellants box that are begging to be used here too.

>more older people are married
>more older people are experienced painters

Any anons that use a Raphael 8404 brush: My paint doesn't seem to flow down to the tip with it. I didn't have the same issue with my W&N brushes, but they didn't hold a point for shit; the 8404 holds a perfect point, but runs out of paint super fast, because it all stays further up the brush. Any advice to alleviate this?

user, that's... I'm sorry. We're here! Or there's always /adv/, the "Get it off your chest" threads are good. Do you need help?

Maybe you could show us some of your pieces?

Done finally

Great, now what is it?

The impact marks are top shelf.
I'd happily play on that.

Do any of you have a PDF of the how to paint burning of prospero?

looks to be some plywood with a bit of mold growing on it.

>this pleb discounting an entire range based on malformed opinions
Ayy lmao.

You are NEVER going to match the pigment saturation you get with enamels, acrylics are more practical but if I want bright scratches on metal I reach for Humbrol #11 because it's just flat out better than any acrylic.

Adam Savage went to the trouble of spraying his T-101 with copper paint (actual copper in a conductive medium) so it could be electroplated with chrome like the original props were. You'd paint it Leadbelcher and say "fuck it, good enough"

You've never seen a Realm of Battle set have you?

T-800* FUCK

you should av done a spray of retributor armor (tm) before applying your base

...

Looks like I'm waiting a week and a half for my daemonettes to get here because of some shipping trouble.

Any of you Anons got Slaanesh stuff to show off, or stories or tips?

Looks pretty nice what army will vanquish their foes on there?