WIP - Work In Progress General

Second one.

I'd suppose not very well, but that might depend on the kid of bark they have. On the off chance it may peel I'd probably peel it myself before drying, priming and painting.
Or I'd just make a wire tree from scratch, if this is what you need a painted twig for.

i put a twig on this, treat it poorly and use it often, no problems
>0 wounds
>T0
>enemy units may get wet

WIP Knights of the blazing sun. Horses aint finished

Guess I'll dump some shit like a couple of the past WIP threads in case anyone needs it.

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You don't have to make the initial lines so thick. It's also copied from an older Ork codex.

inb4 "overlapping dags?! REEEE"

So. I'm having to prime in 80-83 degrees with 70-90% humidity. This is a GOOD DAY for me. I can NOT do it indoors as I can't ventilate.

Is this good enough? Did I over-prime? Paint is still wet. I know I didn't get 100% perfect coverage but I'd like "good enough for table top" this weekend - I can strip in acetone later.

This is my first time at spray-priming in 12 years and I can't remember if this looks to thick or just fine.

Still wet. Flash is on. They look WAY smoother in person - but want an opinion.

It's too thick on the bolters. You don't actually need 100% primer coverage. As long as there's enough paint flecks to cover the material and there's no huge patches of bare metal.

It's hard to say though since metal miniatures scratch so easily regardless of primer quality or coverage.

I've given up on spray primers and switched to a high quality brush on. I always looked down on gesso users for years but the past 6 months finally broke me. I don't use gesso or that Vallejo garbage though, I bought a bottle of Stynlyrez.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to reeee about the shitty overlapping dags.

REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Well SOMEONE had to do it, right?

>orks paint checkerboards just as straight and neatly as pinnacle-of-mankind supersoldiers

Are we sure it's thick on the bolters? SoB are mid-90s sculpts. They don't exactly have well sculpted bolters.

Any tips on recasting minis? Materials?

I enjoy others remember that. But to be fair, I'd imagine if you took longer than 3 minutes (like I did for that picture) and you used thinner, neater lines and cleaned up a bit, you could use the technique for just about anything. And from a distance, on small models, if you're just adding checkers to your mooks I really don't think it would make much of a difference.

So were you going for Asian or "Sisters of Our Matyred Cheeto"?

Not my paint job.

Trying to compare someone else's to my priming. Trying to determine if I over-did it... all the details are there, all the hair recesses and hosery... but the bolter looks thick.. but other bolters on other paint jobs look thick.

In the grim darkness of the far future there is only jaundice

Right, right, my mistake. Carry on, then. Just stay away from those yellows for good measure.

>So were you going for Asian

Blonde and brunette Asians? Or is it because they look like Reimu.

They might have overprimed too. Compare it to a bare metal bolter. Chances are even if the primer is too thick, it's not a disaster "filled in the details thick". You might have just made the bolters look less crisp, it's not a huge deal. The only real pain is that if you try to sand down the primer it'll probably go to bare metal unless you used a really good and sandable primer.

See And look at their skin again.

I lol'd.

I guess I didn't see it until you pointed it out because I'm Asian.

They look fine when I squint so it's understandable.

So I've got a Knight coming, and I need suggestions on a metallic silver spray basecoat. I've had mixed results with GW, so I'd like to avoid that, given a choice. Anyone have any suggestions for a silver metal basecoating spray that wont obscure detail?

ArmyPainter do a couple of decent ones

Check your wide-eye privilege, white scum.

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Needed to do some tabletop quality stuff. Plenty of bits to pick out later but overall not bad.

So swiss tau? Could really use a wash and some edge highlights

>but overall not bad
Let's not get crazy here...

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First, get highlights on that shit. The red and the blue of the tau head desperately need it. After that, blacken those lenses and tips of your gun barrels. Put a little bit of white at the bottom left of the lenses and a tiny dab at the top right.

I see you did wash some of them at the cloth parts with I'm guessing Agrax Earthshade or something comparable, but you need to hit the reds and the skin with a heavy black wash. It's going to dull your white, but honestly, what I would suggest is cleaning the white up with red, doing the highlighting and then wash, and then thin your white very heavily and dab some in those white recesses like a wash to brighten it back up again if you want it very striking like it is now.

Over all, it's alright, yeah. Nothing I'd complain about once you get it done. Better than seeing a big grey blob of plastic on the table as the tau-player stereotype tends to go, that's for god damn sure.

yo, wet socks ain't nothing to joke about

my second guardsman. Looks alot better than the last one I posted. Still can't get faces right. I also have alot of trouble highlightning metal. Any thoughts?

I think your image could use some resizing.

How likely to provoke autistic reactions is the use of CSM bits with the iconography filed off on loyalist space marines? If it helps, I'm playing a chapter that canonically scavenges and salvages all their gear, mostly older marks.

i run this as a tactical marine and no ones complained

>Chaos Space Marine bits with the Chaos bits filed off

Nigga that means they're just Space Marine bits then.

Looks good. Only 98 left to paint.

>only 100 guardsmen

You WANT to lose?

I thought he was playing skirmish games, my mistake.

kek'd

>How likely to provoke autistic reactions
In real life? Negligible. On Veeky Forums? Very.

You're better of just playing blood ravens, then.
Since they "canonically" "lend" or "find" most if not all of their more advanced wargear.

Magos, before you go into the motor pool, I'd like to explain a few things you might run across.

No, no you don't understand. It's a troop transport that doubles as a scout tank, but also packs a punch.

The Omnissiah will not be please
but I like it

Testing what will probably be my new BA colours scheme.

This looks cool af

1.I'd change knife's handle's colour.
2.Uniform is solid no complaints.
3.With the colours you have now I'd add something whiter on edges, for example spine and edge of the knife, with the muzzle you have to work it out yourself because there's more than one method.

trying to finish the heroes for Zombiecide. I didn't realize they had so many f-ing details. great sculpts...

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Bad news. Your little car's gonna drown. And you're gonna die, wearing that stupid hat. How does it feel?

Is that Old Man Henderson

that the guy from falling down?

hahahaha, my favorite character in the game by far
na, i dont think its based off him
it is... its D-fens from Falling down (Michael douglas)

>when you finish everything in your 'in' pile and just sit there, directionless

What do you use for faces?

I do

Bugmans glow
Layer of cadian flesh tone
50% watered down reikland fleshtone
Layer of Kislev flesh
Light layer of flayed one flesh on raised surfaces like the brow and bridge of the nose.

I only do one layer of each; you get some nice layering and build up of different tones in different recesses.

Posted in last thread but no one responded.

First model I have painted in like 5 years. First time with a wet palette and non-GW paints.

Still needs some finishing but looking for feedback. And I am aware of some of the pisspoor modeling on my part in regards to cleaning mold lines which I missed and such.

Am I doing the will of Duncan?

user who's painting Dark Imperium for his LGS.
Postin Marines.

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user, i dont know what to say about this... it breaks all the rules yet its beautiful. great job

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aaand cloak on captain.

thanks user, glad you like it!

I like them. Nice and smooth clean job that was probably pretty quick. I mean you could make them "better" by getting super nitty gritty but it's not really worth the effort if you ask me when they already look so good for tabletop play.

Posting my wip knight

It looks serviceable. Kinda bland and lacking definition but fine for playing with.

>they actually make Duncan use that awful pound shop Super Glue that splooges out of the metal tube

It was already a rip-off in a more controllable plastic bottle, I can't believe there is anyone out there dumb enough to buy a £100 Knight and try to assemble it with that crap.

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Still need to tidy up.. do some pigmets, finish off metallic parts etc..

Coming along I guess.

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Looks nice, but i would recommend get some lighter color on the green tubes, and a brighter red on the edges of the armor. Basically get some colors.
Also i dont think that using the same color on armor and base is a good idea for general composition. Actually some green grass would serve as a connection between te base and the tubes and that would make the overall model look more interesting

Cool.

Is there a golden ratio for thinning Citadel with water and a brush? I've heard about getting it to the consistency of milk, but I find that hard to visualise.

Put a brush full of paint on your palette, dip the brush in water, stir in paint.

It should be plenty thin enough. Unless you have a wet palette, don't premix large quantities of paint or it'll just dry and ruin the point of watering it down in the first place.

If you still struggle with thinning paints, try using acrylic medium as it's easier to get a consistent result than water.

Also don't expect thinned paints to look good on the first application, it should ideally take 3-4 coats before you get a solid base for most colors.

>tfw handpainting with prethinned airbrush paints and needing 10+ coats of yellow on top of black

Sorry if it seems like I post stuff without making much progress. Work has been busy so I don't have much time to paint for now.

Think I finished the glazing, just need to finish up on the belt area. Will do the highlights after and for now will just use Troll Slayer Orange and glaze it back to Mephiston. Also using 1:1 of Flash Gitz and Troll Slayer to put on the corners.

Not sure if I want to try and glaze in some darker reds for some shadows. I don't think this is a bad glazing job for a first timer but that helmet is being a real bitch to work with.

Getting the Dark Imperium box set for the Death Guard, and I'm currently thinking about how to paint the Primaris Marines in the box.
I currently collect Space Wolves so they're my first thought on how to paint them but I'm not sure if from a lore perspective my company would accept them into their rout.

I'm currently considering either Blood Ravens (who nicked the technology bound for another chapter)
or
Astral Claws (a section of the chapter who survived to present day die to convoluted time in the Warp)
Any thoughts?

Thanks heaps for the tips guys, I've been watching Duncan's videos on painting and I could never fully grasp the viscosity of the paints he was using (probably because I can't get decent quality on videos because of terrible internet).

I've forgone working on important units and I'm trying out techniques on smaller units/spare parts, is this the result that I am looking for? I know there are stray brush marks and little areas missing, but how is the green? Too thin/thick?

Gotta be Blood Ravens. Get a Bjorn in your army for maximum memeing.

Looks really good

If I go with Blood Ravens I'm also considering picking up the Gabriel Angelos mini from Forge World when it comes out. Hopefully he'll be of a similar scale and not look stunty next to the new recruits

bettle
bettleborgs

Sorry to say, but the Gabriel Angelos mini looks retarded as fuck.