WIP: Work in Progress Thread

>So I've decided I'd like to try and make some money on the side by doing commission work.
It's generally not worth the money for the amount of time and effort you put into the job.

...

First model I'm painting from the Guildball two player starter

OI GITZ
IVE BEEN IN DA SQUIG BREWZ TOO MUCH TONIGHT.
SHOULD I ACTUALLY WORK ON THAT BATPLANE DAKKAJET, WARBIKERS, BUGGIE BOYS, OR PAINT MY MASSIVE UNPAINTED TIDES?

For the 10 billionth time I swear this should be put in the OP, what are some cheap tools I can use to start with, or some search terms I can use to find these? I'm getting mostly those silicone-tipped ones or the ones that are loops meant for clay sculpting. I swear there was a set of like 15 of them for $10 but I can't find it, though I might be misremembering.

Radical/10

These?
flamesofwar.com/gf9online_store.aspx?CategoryID=13167

Not sure where you can get 15 of them for $10, but if you've checked places like Miniature Market and Hobby Lobby and not found any then I don't know what to tell you.

>>excessive fungus-beer
Da 'ordes, boss.

Would you pay more to have models come pre-assembled or even pre-primed?

Something like that, yeah. I'll keep poking around, but are those 4(8) tools really enough? I'd expect some finer points and some more flat ones for scraping, for some reason.

ZOG OFF.
NOW TELL ME WAT TO DO, YA GROT.

Hell no. I tend to convert and kitbash stuff so that would make it more difficult. Not to mention it would make customizing weapons load-outs more difficult. As for priming, it would have to be pre-assembled to be primed so that's out too and I've had iffy experiences with some models that are supposed to come pre-primed, freaking d&d minis.

check amazon for wax sculpting sets

I find that
>a blade, possibly with hooked point that you can use the flat side of as well
>a round leaf shape convex on one side, flat on the other
>hook
>straight needle
>ball tipped tool in various sizes
are most useful. At least these are the ones I use mostly.

You can get by with a knife and a needle in a pinch though.

Clay shapers are extremely useful for smoothing out GS though.

Note that you won't be able to do much scraping with GS since it's consistence is like chewed up bubblegum. For stuff like milliput you could scrape though.

I think I am finally to the point where I'm going to break down and get an Airbrush because I'm tired of looking at all the shit I cant do because I don't have one.

Where the fuck do I start, and what is the expected kick to the wallet for the initial investment? All I basically know is that I'm going to be shitty at first, and I need to buy good Airbrush paint from somewhere like Vallejo.

That looks way better than that color scheme would ever imply. Good job.

Some wip pics of my deathcompany for 8th edition. What do you guys think so far?

1/4

Please don't rotate this pic phone

2/4

>3.2 MiB
>4032x3024
>sideways

3/4

What kind of genius decided to make a set of wide cutters that don't have any kind of grip whatsoever?

I have no idea why my phone rotates photos on Veeky Forums. It doesn't do it on Facebook or instagram.

As far as the file size and resolution that's just what my phone tppk, idk how to fuck with it

>buying Cheap Chinese tools that GW slaps their logo onto then sells at a 200x markup

primed/10

It's because it's uncropped and your phone is using its own meta data to correct the image

Thanks for the term, that led me back to the kit I was thinking of.

Those cutters are actually pretty nice. I like using them when I'm working at my lgs

What is meta data?

Pretend I don't know shit about cameras because I don't

I like the style and size of the blades, but I would have much rather them had some kind of grip on the handles. They're naturally rather spread out and it's annoying having to readjust every few snips.

Is there a trick to painting large surfaces for vehicles or walkers?

I don't have an airbrush or proper thinners so it'll all be done with brushes/water. Is it just the same techniques done on smaller units, only scaled up, or it there a faster way to do it?

Zog, boss. Ize was jus finkin you shud paint somma da ladz.

Looking good, user. Some moldlines on the fingers, though.
Other than that, solid paintjob so far

New to 40k here, heard that I should watch Duncan before painting anything so I know what to do. Finished watching these videos, what next? Just start painting? I'd rather assemble everything before starting to paint, so I have some time to listen to him in the background, and it seems that a lot of the videos are geared towards specific models.

Any other suggestions would be useful.

Data stored in the photo such as the orientation when it was taken, which is why then size shrinks so drastically when you crop it

Metadata is invisible (on the image) information that gets encoded into the image and saves information about the camera, settings, location, author, etc. for future reference. It's also called "exif data" and can be viewed in image editors or browsers (on certain sites designed for it). Your phone/camera by default encode metadata into the image which can change the colours on it or give it a different orientation depending on the settings.

Reposting from the previous thread:

Depends what you want. If you let us know what army you're painting or style you're going for, that will help.

r/minipainting always has a decent amount of people online so if you ever need advice, there's another advice center.
>inb4 reddit hate

Various youtube channels. My personal go-to's are HobbyHotTips (for basing), Miniwargaming (with their personal spin off channels), EonsofBattle, Tabletop Minions, Painting Buddha and of course, Warhammer TV's Duncan.

Necrons and Skitarii / AdMech. Apparently I've picked both the easiest and hardest to paint armies, but I'll deal with it I guess. I didn't know there were different styles I could paint in, I assumed it was all geared towards being realistic (well, as realistic as 40k can get). I haven't painted anything yet so I'm pretty open to whatever right now. I missed the last thread so didn't see any posts that might have been related, sorry.

No worries, everyone has to start somewhere. I'm doing a Necron army myself and I can tell you that you chose a great army for starting painting with. You can get alot out of the model with some grey/silver paint and Nuln oil shade.

WarhammerTV has great Necron Warrior/Overlord tutorials, plus EonsofBattle has good options for Necron specific basing.

I've never used Green Stuff before and it seems really fun. I picked up Black Reach literally 10 years ago and never actually played but now I'm preparing for 8th by converting the Terminators to Death Guard and also picked up this Terminator Lord.

It's probably to late for this guy but any advice or tips for Nurgle Green stuff? Also I used quite a bit of it, is the larger quantities off Amazon acceptable quality?

Ready to defend Craftworld Ske'ttals

Made a stug styled Leman Russ for my Dkok from a guide that was posted a few threads ago, rate?

Sorry for phone posting, it's the best I got right now

...

Nothing like a closeup to show you all the shit you've missed and all the details you still need to paint.

3-5 thin coats or you'll either see brush strokes or clumps. Also, depending on the colour, it's goddamn important to let it dry between layers, because if you go back too soon you might rip the not yet dry layer and then you're fucked.

I think it might look better with some skirts.

What is that barrel, a reinforced drinking straw? Because clever.

Looks good dude

Cap from a large brush, didn't have anything else

Side skirts like the old ww2 panzer? Didn't know they put those on the stug too, I guess it makes sense. I want to add more shit in-between the wheels.

NONE PURER

When you say wait for it to dry, do you mean dry to touch or left as long as possible?

I've heard something about leaving paint for 3-4 times longer than it takes to feel dry because of some chemical bonding shenanigans.

A few minutes at least.

Oh, and get a large basecoating brush.

LESS IS MORE
Fucking hell.
Looks like he just rolled around in chewing gum.

No pustules or mark of Nurgle detail sculpted in. Just a mess.
Peel it off once it is cured and start again. Go watch some tutorials for Nurgle greenstuff on youtube.

>is the larger quantities off Amazon acceptable quality
Kneadite is literally greenstuff. The quality is exactly the same GW just marks it up an insane amount.

unless you're some 3rd worlder from a god foresaken shithole, its not worth your time...

painting well = painting slow.
Slow = less dosh
fast = shit paint job
shit paint job = no commission

Bump here?

To paint Necron spines, or not paint Necron spines?

>try to order Incubi darkness rattlecan from LGS
>cant
>mfw

Is it part of some secret club?

tfw still have to finish weapons,glowy tubes, colored armor panels, and highlights on an immortal and deathmark before I can finish my killteam

>shit you've missed
Like what? can't see anything wrong with it.

All GW rattlecans got slapped with safety restrictions.

That doesn't make any sense because they have the white and black sprays?

might be back stock, all I know is GW now has
the following limitation:

Product Warning

To comply with laws around the world, we've chosen to restrict how we sell this product. You must be 18 to buy it, you must buy at least one non-restricted item with it, and you can buy a maximum of 2 of it in any order.

That might affect your LGS's policy/acess.

Are they afraid of huffers? There's far cheaper spray paint if you just want to get high.

It's a blanket restriction on all.
There's also limits on where it's can be shipped and how.

No countries with overseas troops for example.
Because apparently overpriced spay cans are terrorists newest weapon.

Probably. But they'll still want to keep the guys buying their shit from getting even more retarded.

More likely that it is classed as dangerous goods now in regards to transport. Once you are over a certain amount it can be considered a risk.

Probably environmental bullshit.

Just thought I'd pop in to lay this masterpiece on you guys.

>Nothing like a closeup to show you all the shit you've missed and all the details you still need to paint.

Too right on my models. Fine from afar, sloppy and with unpainted spots up close.
Worst part is i cant reach certain areas without surgical precision, and that feels like too much effort when theres a bunch of other shit to finish.

Didn't the bork dog die just recently?

Yep.

I highlight with dark reaper, thunderhawk blue and fenrisian grey, makes the minis nicer to look at compared to eshin grey/dawnstone/administratum grey.

Also recess shade with watered down rhinox hide.

I'm not great at painting but heres my emperor's champion wip

That base is sexy.

Great now take it away

Thanks! First base ive ever made from scratch, it's just bits, cut up sprue, greenstuff, astrogranite and some washes

What do you think?

And his backside, which was also born in the darkness,not merely adopting it.

I didnt realise there was a new thread, so Repostan

I did some work on him last night, added some troll slayer orange (i think) to the elevated parts of the cloak, I darkened the staff, cleaned up the washes, and darkened some of the metal behind his head with washes, so I could add starker silver highlights (not able to see in picture) I also cleaned up the "plasma glow"

Yes i know there is a moldline right there, its too late for me to fix it, but its very hard to see unless you are looking from under the model, and i just literally fixed that orange spoltch on the staff

Those "liquid canisters" could use a glossy wash to fake the "glass" surrounding them.

Shitty photo, but this is the start of my Emperor's Children warband. Fairly happy with how it came out, though I think I need to be a little less heavy on the washes and spend some more time highlighting, it's a bit darker than I wanted

yeah I have to go buy some ard coat, but im worried they need touch ups/ or a color change so Im not sure about it yet

Yeah, other point is maybe making the piping more distinct as well. Everything being about the same colour makes the metallics look like a blob.

Not trying to bring you down or anything, just advising. Pretty decent mini overall.

It looks a little dry for some reason, as if it was a special contingent for a desert world. Might be the camera messing up the lighting though.

It's a great base, I like how you applied the purple in a clean and crisp manner.

I'd say touch up the green and gold with a bit lighter colors, maybe add a little blue to the purple via a wash? Gun looks spiffy.

the smooth pipes and some joins are copper, should I go for a non metallic color?

Also, and most importantly, base! It's so easy to make a nice base using sand, gravel or (what I prefer) dried coffee grounds, and it just adds so much to the model.

This.
The main colouring looks like it dried out.
Did you mat varnish it?

Maybe a bit more brownish coppery (lampshade coppery if you get what i mean see pic), and turn the tubing somewhat darker. But that's how i'd paint admech, if this is your style, that's simply how it is.

Cheers! The lighting is pretty terrible, I also washed basically all the armour plates, which dulled it down. I think for the next attempt I'll be just putting the wash around the edges to keep the purple brighter, and maybe going a super light drybrush of hot pink to really bring the colours out.

The purple was a bit of a time-consuming process, from a black undercoat it's two thin coats of Reaper's Witchcraft Purple high density, then another two nice thin coats of a mix of Imperial Purple and the Breast Cancer Pink in a 75:25 mix. Used a red wash, which I think really warms up the gold and gives nice shadows on the plates.

I'll be playing around with some of his squadmates over the next few days, so I should have something more to show off this weekend.

Look at pictures of gross stuff, rashes, tumours etc, to use as a reference. Random swirly and choppy textures don't really look very Nurgle and actually smooth (ish) skin with imperfections looks far more like diseased flesh.

Try and have a plan of what you want to achieve before you start. You may not be able to follow it perfectly but it will help.

Take your time with it. It is much better to build up the greenstuff in layers, letting it cure in between. This will give you a solid base to work on and much more control.

Kitbash the fuck out of it. There are a handful of Nurgle kits that are absolutely packed with awesome Nurgle bits of flesh and weapons and so on (blight kings, Maggoth lord, plague drones for example) and with a bit of greenstuff work these can be blended easily into other non-nurgle models or used to build something from scratch.

I plan to base them with a simple urban rubble setup, just had not bothered with this one yet as it's a proof of concept mini.

Just got my shapeways order in.

Very happy with it no issues at all. Fits perfectly into the shoulder pad.

Well the photo didn't attach but here it is blu-tac'd on.

all those purity seals and you still couldnt paint them properly.