WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are en route
youtube.com/watch?v=UID6LEzvRRo

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

hfminis.co.uk/shop?category=fantasy-& steampunk~fantasy-humans
youtube.com/watch?v=InRDF_0lfHk
migjimenez.com/en/acrylic-primers/117-dark-yellow-primer.html).
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

First for glorious DKOK and how to paint grey

Second for basecoating

Again from last thread, but the glue on my dkok grenadiers isn't sticking for some reason. On the one I've put together, some bits will still move, on others I've attempted, the glue turns into a film which flakes off.

Do I use gorilla glue?

Did you wash them thoughtfully first?
Also, you need to use super glue for resin, not plastic glue

Rattle rattle rattle

This, I washed all my dudes and used super glue.

I did wash them but I'd not known about the super glue.

And it still doesn't work? Try to use a very small file in the contact points to make the resin a bit uneven, or put a tiny tiny little bit of paper right into the contact point with the glue.

On resin-resin, metal-metal and resin/metal-plastic you have to use super glue

>On resin-resin, metal-metal and resin/metal-plastic you have to use super glue
No you don't. There are all kinds of glue which will work on those things, many of them better than super-glue in some ways. The only really good thing about super glue is that it dries fairly fast so you don't have to hold the pieces in place.

However, when working with resin, there are some steps you need to take to make sure you have a good bond.

First of all, clean it properly. I know you already gave it a clean, but it pays to go overboard with mold release agent. Soak with detergent, scrub with a toothbrush, repeat like five times. Then just before working on it, give it a bath of isopropyl alcohol and dry with a hot air blower. Wear gloves when handling it after that, to avoid skin grease getting on it and so you don't glue you fingers to it.

Then, you probably want to pin everything you possibly can. At the very least, gouge the surface to give the glue something to grip to.

After you have put the glue on, figure out a way to apply pressure and keep the pieces clamped in position. This often requires a bit of ingenuity with elastic bands, clothespegs, clips and vices. But it really helps to be able to just leave the mini for an hour while the glue sets properly.

Oh well, yeah I guess. I was talking about the glues GW sells. I'm sure there are better ones around.

I've got a mountain of half-finished kitbashes and unpainted models to get through, but I really want to spend a huge pile of money on even more kits... this thing could be a battlewagon, a trukk and a plane...

>Mantis Warriors Johnny
MY TRUEST OF BATTLE BROTHERS

Lads, how do I paint Space Marines in mostly silver easily and effectively?

I was considering getting the GW Leadbelcher spray, patching up with Leadbelcher before washing with Nuln Oil and possibly picking out some edges with Vallejo Game Chainmail;

But I'm not sure whether I'm limiting myself, didn't GW make some new super metallics recently?

I really like the look of the DA librarian inside the Dark Vengeance box, but he's DA themed. Any tips on converting him to be more chapter agnostic?

Hey /wip/ here is my primaris marine. I cant decide on what color the trim on the pads should be.
Thinking about doing bronze like the wings or maybe black. Any ideas are welcomed. Sorry for bad picture.

>I really like the look of the DA librarian inside the Dark Vengeance box, but he's DA themed. Any tips on converting him to be more chapter agnostic?

Replace the left arm and do something (obscure, remove, sculpt over) the insignia on his chest and you should be good.

Metallics tend to look bad on non-busy surfaces, especially coppery ones. I'd say you want a nice warm colour which stands out from the grey. Orange and yellow don't tend to look good next to bronze, so probably red.

I've been using the DoW army painting to try and find the final piece of my Nid puzzle, but i can't seem for it to click
>Carapace is Light Grey
>Flesh is Red
>Eyes are Yellow
What colour should the weapons be?

Needs some cleaning on some highlights still, but it's getting better.

Leadbelcher spray turned out pretty shit when I tried it. Have no problems with the other colours, but that one just ended up far too grainy.

I think you really need to use an airbrush or spraygun if you want fast silver over smooth surfaces. You don't need a good brush, but unfortunately you do kind of need a good compressor to avoid spattering.

White? Like maggot-grey for the soft bits and bone for the hard parts?

Trying to finish up my Commissar, got side tracked with making my Imperial Guard Shadow War team.

I could just go White/Grey, since i've alreagy hit the 3 colour minimum
It's just annoying the 3rd colour doesn't pop as much

Thanks. My dad has like a small industrial compressor, probably only double the size of the specific airbrush ones I see. He's said it would probably be too powerful in the past but I imagine they have pressure settings.

the trouble will be going down low enough with a steady airflow, you only need 10-15 psi most of the time. A tank is also nice to keep the flow from pulsing with the pump.

wip Death Guard

just a thorough re-highlight of the green armour, and basing, and they are done.

what do you guys think?

I finally made the jump into this, and finished my first two minis. Tear me a new one, I want to get better

(1/2)

2/2

Not bad man

Not bad for a total beginner. Not bad at all.

But the heavy drybrush with white shows and gives the first skeleton a somewhat messy look. A bit more subtle, and maybe not such a bright white would work better.

As a next step i recommend to look into washes and get a black and a brown one to give your future miniatures more definition and depth.

I love your paintwork, but give your figures a bit more love before you start painting. I see mouldlines and gaps that you could have easily fixed. You're great!

Reposting since I came in on the ass-end of the thread and I'm just so pleased with my progress. There's nothing quite like finding that missing piece (in this case the Pink Horrors stuff) that fit ever so nicely. Gonna need a bigger base for this...

how did you do the golden/brass trim? it looks great!

I really appreciate the input.

Yeah, I realize now that they really do mean as little paint as possible for dry brushing.

I actually did use a wash (vallejo black). I think I got paranoid that it would pool too much outside the recesses and cover much of the color, so I probably ended up brushing off too much of it.

Looking nice. I'm liking this model in red.

How on earth is that armor painted, green wash over bare tan plastic or something?

Anyway, go for the basics. Put down solid, veen and smooth block colours. Outline everything with black or really dark colours to make shit pop. Mix shading and highlight colours, apply "manually", don't primarily use washes or drybrushing except for when such is really called for.

Its all about getting used to how the different paints and techniques work and behave.

If you enjoy painting, i recommend checking the miniature painting section on twitch creative. Some of the guys there are really nice and helpful and explain everything to you if you ask them in chat.

Two down. Any recommendations for how to fake my death so I can finish painting my box set instead of go to work?

To make the armor, I used green paint over white primer. I then used a dry brush with metal bronze using more paint than usual for dry brushing.

My goal is to get shading and highlighting right for next time.

Simple: actually kill yourself and paint minis from the comfort of your newly haunted house

t. ghost

Hasslefree has a decent selection of suitably naked ladies for slaving purposes.
hfminis.co.uk/shop?category=fantasy-& steampunk~fantasy-humans

Check Brother Vinni

I'll never be able to find peace in the afterlife until my backlog is done, so I'll be haunting the shit outta people

But in undeath you'll have all the time in the world to finish that backlog user. You don't even have to pay for paints since you can just phase through and levitate that shit out of the front door

still alot of work to do, but i am undecided wheter i should paint the kneepads white or not.

paint the guns red you homo

i like your zeal, but n, it take alot of the grimness.

I assume the tabbards were scratch built?

no, from spellcrow!

I see. Been debating on whether or not I want to wait for proper Black Templar models or make my own as you did. Making my own gets me playing faster but from what I've seen the starter set doesn't come with any melee weaponry

how did you paint the green armour, my stinky green friend?

...

looks like the new Deathguard Green from Citadel to me.

1. Retributor gold
2. Brown wash/purple wash at 50/50
3. Liberator Gold
4. A couple of dots of Nihilakh Oxide here and there around rivets and crevices

1. Death World Forest, and Ushabti bone. ( the new Death Guard Green would do the same job)
2. Athonian Camoshade
3. A light, light glaze of sepia wash to make it a tiny bit yellow.

Even in death I'll still paint.

What's the best way to remove GW white primer on plastic minis? I sprayed it on too thick, haven't used a spray in 5 years. Fuck.

I haven't found a paint stripper that can deal with primers well.
So in my experience you are looking at soaking them, scrubbing them and then repeating that ad nauseum till they look salvageable again.

I need to base coat about 120 Gaunts for my Tyranids, and i want to do it in purple. Anyone know of a purple spray primer? Pic somewhat related.

Give me one good reason why you shouldn't prime everything in grey

very nice.
I could never accomplish this, but if I were to give one piece of constructive criticism, you should add some more texture on the dirt/weathering at the bottom of their cloaks.

Just something to break up the uniformity I see there.

Idk how tho.

Because I want to youtube.com/watch?v=InRDF_0lfHk

bright light blue

>Give me one good reason why you shouldn't prime everything in grey

It's easier to get bright Second Edition Blood Angels red over a white undercoat than over a grey undercoat. I've done both methods, and the models with the grey undercoat ("Zynolyte Light Gray All-Purpose Spray Primer") are noticeably different.

That's not to say it can't be done. In fact, one could paint yellow or even white over a black undercoat (followed by red, of course, is what I mean) and probably achieve a similar effect, but that's one more coat of paint that probably could have been skipped.

Jesus that footage of airstrikes is hardcore.

This one in particular is really nice.

Finished this squad after much procrastination. Can't believe backlog nearly done.

'sup

Total noob here, i just assembled all of the little shit and tools and paints and crap to start painting. After 6 hours of assembly i managed to put together my first Spess Muhreen Sergeant.

Here's where i get confused. I'm priming it using this (migjimenez.com/en/acrylic-primers/117-dark-yellow-primer.html). I'm brushing it on and the result is this fucking shit. I assume i need to do up a second coat, but i guess there's something i'm doing wrong that makes it be fucking...splotchy? It dried up real quick like. I did thin it with some acrylic thinner to start, but then i noticed it's not mushing up details and is pretty runny even without the thinner. Tips? Help? Trolling? Anything helps. Thanks dudes.

...

Yes, i know. It's like it took a swim in diarrhea. Maybe it's the brush i'm using? Just using a standard citadel base brush.

That is an airbrush primer, some of those are certainly usable with a brush (the vallejo ones for instance), but they are quite thin as a result.

They do claim it's usable with brushes. So does that mean i just have to lay it on more thickly? I'm scared i'll just fucking blob the whole thing.

Never used any other paint on primer except for Acrylic gesso, but I notice that I usually need to apply it like pic related

like a icyish blue?

multiple thinner coats > one thicker coat
It should dry quite thin though, which is to prevent it from obscuring details.

Man... it looks like he climbed out of a bowl of pea soup.

I wish I had a solution for you, user, but my only experience with brush-on-primer was Citadel's Imperial Primer - which is an affront to The Emperor's benevolence. Even my local GW's manager does not encourage its use.

If you're determined to go this way - and I suppose you must be because of limitations on using spray primer (lack of suitable weather or spraying location?) - it definitely needs another coat. You're not going to be able to get thinned acrylic paint to stick satisfactorily to all that bare grey area - especially in the crevices where you need to get washes to darken your shadows, even if you are expecting paint to be underneath.

The bigger problem I'm seeing going in this direction are the brush strokes. I suspect they'll be visible underneath a couple of thin coats of acrylic. A second coat of that primer might hide them, but it could come at the cost of some of this model's detail.

Fair, didn't expect the primer to be THAT thin though. I'll give it another coat in five minutes.

Panic.

Guess i'll order a can of chaos black. I just couldn't fucking find any in stock around here and ran outta patience.

Its amateur hour
New painter here looking to make a nod army with a white carapiece and blue skin. What would be a good weapon color and any tips? This is the test gaunt. I plan on highlighting with white scar on the carapiece.

Fuck

the robes could use some work, they don't feel like cloth at all

>a giant moldline
>right in the middle of his fucking forehead

Do you people not have eyes?

>have next to no time at all to paint
>Have a backlog of plaguebearers, plague drones, nurglings and a Nurgle predator
>Still insist on converting perfectly good models every fucking time
I have issues.

Shitty picture but I'm going for the standard 'come at me bro' pose that you've all seen a million times. Black and white always useful for looking at greenstuff.

I love bellguy

Why is edge highlighting so hard. Is it because I touch myself at night or because I like strawberry milk more than chocolate milk?

Awesome yellow, user!

allright, you fuckers better tell me where those propellers and the helmets are from ?
I would guess from the plague drones, but aren't those way bigger ?

I prime in black because it does a better job of bringing out metallics

Monitoring because I need this

Second coat on. Went much more ham this time and it's definitely looking better. Dries snugly i guess. Just gotta be careful not to let it pool. No brush strokes either. I'll give it a final round of touch ups since i apparently keep missing small spots that come up in pictures.

Right. Soaking it is then.

This! Red guns are amazing.

Also post first ever and most recent miniature.

Because I'm back in black.

Got to do the highlights on the back tho.

dude is right unfortunately - "grim" or not these just look half-finished without a spot color that isnt white/cream or black/grey

I think those are scratch built or from some 3rd party maybe. legs are from bloodletters though

Don't know what is on about, a bronze trim is tried and true and will look great

Scratch built is indeed correct

Thanks - really enjoying painting these.

impressive

So I finished my Orks and I want to know if they are horrible to amazing.