WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>I am the hammer! I am the point of His spear! I am the mail about His fist! I am the bane of His foes!
youtube.com/watch?v=JjaYW5Cnr5k

Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

shapeways.com/product/QBF5WCUS6/carcharodon-terminator-right-shoulder-x10?optionId=58646717
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

So I picked up that Magic board game, Arena of the Planeswalkers and my group absolutely hates it. We want to repurpose the minis for rpgs, but the bases are not 25mm.

What is my best method of removing the mini from this base? It's all one piece and I'd like to avoid damaging the actual mini

Hold them in boiling water for thirty seconds, then use a hobby knife to cut them off.

I am somewhat experienced with this sort of thing, I got Heroquest and the D&D Fantasy Adventure Boardgame for similar purposes.

You can cut down as much as possible with clippers before using a knife gently around the feet. Alternatively you can cut away enough that the remainder fits on your base of choice, and then use putty to merge the remainder of the integral base in.

Finally finished my BB troll. Wew!

I added a small friend for fun.

Been working on Death Korps in 1914 French Colors!
C&C welcome!

...

Louise is that you?

No that's a troll.

wow, that is awesome! great work!

Lovely stuff. You're the Savage Orks guy right?

Fookin 'ell

Amazing as usual.

lovely addition, like it how the troll is looking at him

I totally dig the skin tone. The scheme.. less so

This is a super early WIP, I still need to clean everything up and then shade an detail everything but how roughly so far?

Send me to china and rename me to Ho Lee Chit, because that is amazing.

Looks like a lobster, I like it. I would also keep some of the white splotches on the red carapace, I think they would look like some battle damage if properly painted.
A jungle bases would look pretty good too

Fucking banging lad, tell me we are going to see the R.M.L.E

Personally I like the hooves/claws/swords to be a different color than carapace.

Skin looks nice. Are you basically sticking to cannon Kraken colors?

Yeah, this is exactly the steps taken in the how to paint citadel miniatures book and I am a mindless drone who does not want to diverge in any way whatsoever from that in fear of royally fucking something up.

I don't usually like nid paintjobs but this is breddy gud so far. The white/bone is nice and smooth and the red is present but not overpowering. Like said a jungle base would look nice, with some weird plants to bring just a little splash of color to the overall model

How are those nurgle boys coming along /wip/?

I still need to drill these barrels

>painting before you drill
Why

>mindless drone

The Swarm approves

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I will spend the entire day cleaning it up tomorrow.
Does anyone have any good ideas on jungle bases? The only green I have right now is citadel fake grass.

my first 40k army!

Mostly forgetting until after its painted

>Yeah, this is exactly the steps taken in the how to paint citadel miniatures book and I am a mindless drone who does not want to diverge in any way whatsoever from that in fear of royally fucking something up.

It's funny how you can think that, and then GW will go and change it on you; it's all at the whim of Da Studio Ladz.

For example, the First Edition Space Marine painting guide says Blood Angels are supposed to be a terracotta colour, with black gauntlets. Later, they were blood red, and the Mk VII shoulder pauldrons were black around the edges. Beginning with Third Edition - and depending on who was painting and collecting - Blood Angels might be shown with or without the pauldron rims painted black, and eventually, even a different (darker) shade of red!

Really losing motivation to paint but I need to go on. How do I get through this /wip/?

How well do the Frostgrave plastics work with GW bits? I've seen that they match up reasonably well scale wise, but can I stick lasguns on them and get some good conscripts?

What're you painting? Are there any minis you can do quickly and easily to provide additional motivation, even if its a side project?

Needs more spider mech
>tfw I would rebuy Crons if I could field an entire army of Spider things

heavy drinking and a indomitable spirit

Wow, that's kinda insane that they would just fuck with the canon colours of a first founding chapter.

>indomitable spirit

Doesn't that just give you a +1 to "Deny The Witch" rolls?

>non-metallic metal is the apex of a miniatures painter ability
>it looks like shit
Really fires up those neurons

you mean the kanoptek scarabs?

...

but the exhaust looks nice

Thinking about doing something like this with a huge skaven bell I have. Not sure if it'll look too big though, thoughts?
Just a quick mockup, nothing is glued at all yet. If the bell was just slightly smaller it'd look great being dragged around by chains, looking like it's flying around in motion behind the drone, but I'm not sure with this size.

Just wanna find some use for a huge fucking bell now that everything nurgle is bell-based, but I'm likely never gonna get a landraider or anything like that. Any other ideas? Use for a base or terrain or something maybe?

I think a character with two giant bells slightly behind him to his sides would be pretty good.

i got two good comments on what color i should do these exposed cables on my lightning claws and i was wondering if anyone else had any ideas
should i do them black?
will that black look too similar to the cable behind it?

Cut a grille into the bell and use it as a hat with a characters head poking through the bars

You can use aquarium plastic plants, they usually look pretty good once they're painted

You could model a pair of poxwalkers being used to haul each bell on their backs or dragging it behind them. See pic related for reference

really superior paint job, but the unfilled seams are kinda letting you down on the foot and neck

>How are those nurgle boys coming along /wip/?
havent even primed them

love that lord of contagion tho hes a fucking beast

Been going through old lotr models in the bucket from my teens.

They really are tiny

It's one bell, just haven't glued the halves together, gonna finish the sculpting first.
But yeah, something like that could work, maybe use it as a palanquin!
Another idea would be a diorama that could double as a movement tray, with two drones hauling the bell around (both having chains flying off behind them, with magnetized ends to detach from the larger bell when needed), but then I'd feel forced to always fly them together in gameplay!
Yeah, could be nice for a diorama at least, but would prefer something that'd fit on a base

>Nurgle Boyz
you guys are making me want to start my secondary feral Ork army, where a small group of them have turned to worshipping Nurgle, which then will inevitable spread into a Nurgle daemon army with greenstuffed Orks as proxies and whatnot

First time i used spray primer.
Fuck that, I will never go back to pot primers.

How would someone go about converting a AoS Ork Wyvern Rider into a "Feral Dakkajet" im mostly concerned about it being at the same height as the Dakkajet model and I am pretty sure all the Wyvern models are crawling

try and make some horns maybe coming out of the drone to hold the bell above it like the blightbringer

The bell is a bit too big for that sadly. Would've loved a bell roughly half this size. Might hang it from the little tail, but wouldn't work well with the idea I had in mind with the bell on the ground, looking as if it's being violently swung around behind the drone.
I'll do some experimenting and post updates when I've got something going!

My WIP knight and Skitarii Ranger, posted last night but fell asleep, knight needs more details and a transfer sheet, C&C welcome:

Or maybe I'll just go all out on the big stuff and do something like this on the second drone.
Love how the skaven stuff fits in very well with the new nurgle look.

Are those the 3rd party shoulders? Reading the red tithe now makes me wanna make a small elite force of'em.

That does synergize well nice work! NOW CLEAN THAT DESK!!!

What kinds of pins do I need to get to put metal pin in my models?

paperclips

Speaking of which, why did the Duncan videos shift to dry brush everything? The dark vengance tutorials were base, wash, one edge highlight. Dark imperium tuts are all dry brush.

Is it because the models have more detail? Do they think beginners can handle different techniques now?

Yes, I've drilled the barrels. Assholes.

...

is there not anything else I should use? Specially for like a bigger unit, like my Great Unclean One?

I think its this and if so I'm glad. I was thinking of ordering from that guy
shapeways.com/product/QBF5WCUS6/carcharodon-terminator-right-shoulder-x10?optionId=58646717

That's what I was thinking too if so I need me some of that! The new shop I go to is all IG and smurfs not much diversity.

That's a shame user. Better show them what the sharks can do

Please critique me so hard I quit the hobby. Shit lighting but best I can do with no daylight

the black needs highlighted, but beyond that I think its good.

jumbo paperclips

So I saw this in a thread earlier and now I really want to paint some Mantis Warriors, but I'm a little unsure on the green and the black backpack. I figure Abaddon Black might be too dark and I think I got close once by using nuln oil on eshin grey.
Suggestions?

>Speaking of which, why did the Duncan videos shift to dry brush everything?
>Do they think beginners can handle different techniques now?

Here's my guess:

8th Edition is geared to bring people to the hobby and get us to buy stuff - even if we already have plenty. I've been playing 40K for over 25 years. You can bet I have a *ton* of unpainted Space Marines. But ... hey, *new* Space Marines with *new* roolz? I'm in! Easy to play main game that only has nine pages of roolz to get started? Other people will come and join, too!

But painting all those new models is daunting, isn't it?

Well, no, not really... watch our expert (and WIP's patron saint) show you how easy it is to get your newly assembled Primaris Marines table-top ready! All you need is a few of the right paints and one of these dry-brushes, and you'll be ready to hit the table in no time!

Drybrushing was innovative in the late 80's. It's an easy part of everybody's tool kit, but its utility is limited. If you teach somebody new, who's never painted miniatures before, that this one simple trick (Emperor's Teeth, how I *hate* those ads!) can elevate you above the level of a "three colours minimum required" snotling, it encourages people to continue their endeavour. If you continue, you buy more. You get your friends into the game, too. And they buy, and that's money in GW's pocket.

Having a cryptic, clunky game where you really need to have experienced the last three (or more) editions to enjoy playing does not engender a product that is going to compete well with the Playstations and Xboxes of the 21st Century.

where's the cheapest place to buy citadel paints online?

some ebay seller is doing a pick 6 for $23. Not sure if I should buy.

Fuckin' harsh words. He's bound to quit now...

I used unthinned gloss on some shoulders to apply decals and it was a bit too thick for my taste, it made the details less sharp.

Now I'm thinning it, but after 2-3 layers, the gloss coat isn't fully glossy. It's sort of like a patchy semi-gloss, definitely not smooth or shiny enough for decals.

The unthinned gloss is super thick (like GW's Ardcoat style thick) so I don't want to thin less. Should I just keep applying watery layers and pray it becomes fully glossy before the details get filled up?

Would "Polyform® Model Air® Air Dry Modeling Clay" be usable for altering a model?

Im trying to convert my soulgrinder's head to a baby doll head (going to be a nurgle coloration/ goopy and rotting) and i need advice on which modeling clay to use. Something that would harden and hold the head in place.

Thanks guys.

vallejo german grey would work, otherwise for the green run with the new deathguard green paints

I dunno. Death guard green doesn't look quite right

The drybrush videos are the beginner videos I'm pretty sure

Same thing happened with the gravis captain. One drybrush beginner vid and one layering vid for normal viewers.

though it might be a shitty picture because I'm also seeing pics of death guard green that're more actually green

The primary power cable is normally silver, while the front wiring bundle is black rubber insulation. The problem is Carcharodons canonically have black power cabling on the elbows, at least according to the art where the the overwhelming majority of all their cabling and wiring is black, and the official Tyberos model which has it black, but this would mean the front cables would blend in if you made them black.

Personally I'd either make the front cables black, silver, copper, or black/yellow/hazard stripe, red, or black/red.

On my own models which I am currently painting but haven't gotten to the LC arms yet, I'm making all the elbow cabling black, and on the Inodmitus arms I supposed the front cables will just be dark grey with lots of Nuln Oil.

Strap thrusters under its wings and repose the legs

If you're looking for Mantis Warriors green you use Nurgling Green/Straken Green/Elysian Green from GW or Camouflage Light Green or Medium Green from Vallejo Model Air/Vallejo Model Color.

I am indeed. My original plan was to use moot green over warpstone glow, but I feel like that'd end up too emerald

Anyone have any idea how to go about gluing chains to miniatures correctly? I've got some conversions I want to attempt and I'm not sure how to go about doing this, as I don't want them to be moveable at all whatsoever.

So like, base nurgling, layer straken, and edge with Elysian?

No, just pick one of those greens whichever one feels the closest to you. Mantis Warriors are painted in a variety of drab greens, but it shouldn't be hard to color match a pot of green to the image you want, like Forge World's official art, or that photoshop you linked.

Ah, thanks user.

Is there a good way to do brighter colors on kriegers? I want the armor to be black but I thought about doing a dark blue or dark green foe the coat, maybe even a deeper cobalt or something.

Those are all valid uniform colors to go with black plate, you dumb Krieg-honkey!

Anyone have Painting miniatures from A to Z 1 and 2?

paperclip glued in between the links, or just brush on a little bit of super glue before priming

new leaked xenos/empire hybrid unit

What are the best air brush tutorials?

>paperclip glued in between the links
What do you mean by that?

you could try Warplock Bronze for the plate, its a nice dark colour that still catches the light and looks nice

the apex? not really. the apex is making nmm that doesn't look like shit. Ones like this stormcast look fucking amazing desu. or nmm-style tmm, which is pretty rare, but looks amazing when done well.

leme ms paint you something real quick

Airbrushing isn't as complex as people think it is or make it out to be. There's only two real companies with good starter level brushes (Badger Krome/Renegade, Iwata Eclipse) and those brushes will last you your entire life unless you want to upgrade or do some sidegrade alternative shopping of your own. Get a non shitty compressor, go look at what people are reviewing or using, and whether you need an expensive quiet one or not, make sure it has a tank.

Technique is all learned.

Just look up videos on how to maintain and clean it. Buy a brush holder/cleaning pot combo unless you want to bang your brush on the table every time you set it down and empty it out in a bucket or rags which is kinda ghetto.

Don't do backwash to clean or mix, it will put unnecessary wear on the more fragile components and the consumed-life parts that need regular replacing, so expect to replace parts more often if you're constantly backblowing.