WIP - Work In Progress General

Need help picking out a primer, as I'm on a high humidity island where i can't get any online retailer to ship me gw or army builder primer.

Would any of these work for priming my minis?

Also I heard spray primer doesn't work as welll in a high humidity environment?

Rudder

Hey anons, I want to paint Crimson Fists like this painting from RT, but I don't know what colors would match this nice dark blue or anything else.

She's uh, phasing in and out of the warp?
I don't know how to work this damn camera

Thin your paints.

If autofocus, just put a piece of paper behind the mini or something. Blank the background so the camera doesn't think "Ooh, that seeker off in the distance I can barely see looks interesting!"

What is the best way to strip paint from only part of a mini? I fucked up the sword but I had already painted most of the rest of the mini and I like everything else so I would rather not redo the whole thing. It's not a removable part and it is a plastic Bones piece.

I don't even know if it's autofocus honestly.

Rustoleum white plastic primer works fine. Takes longer to dry than the GW or Army Painter stuff but the end result is adequate. Don't use spray primers or spray sealers outside when the humidity is 50% or higher, the humidity will fuck it up. Do it inside.

from the GW painting guide.
I'd use the formula with the aptly named Kantor blue, if I was using GW paints.

I'd like to use the opportunity to shill Vallejo colors though, since they got a lot of great colors.
The VGC range is based on the old GW range.
If I could remember which issue it was in I'd dig up the old painting guide from the four generals article series, where one of the guys did Crimson Fists. I really liked his paintjobs.
So I'd tell you to steal his recipe and use Vallejo equivalencies.
The VMC range has a lot of cool colors as well, wouldn't be suprised if you find some great blues in there. Prussians and Napoleonic soldiers came in a variety of blue too, so...

If the blue in here isn't dark enough for your taste just wash it black.

If you try to do the red from the picture 1:1 I think you may end up with a scheme that lacks a bit of contrast. It works well in the cover because the fire and smoke surrounding the marines frames them, without that a mass of minis painted so dark may just look like a dark horde of unidentifiable mooks.

PS.: Make sure to do a Captain Cortez, he is the best Space Marine to ever Space Marine.

Move the camera about six inches further from the mini. It focused on the seekers just fine so we know the camera isn't terrible.

Probably cleaner to just paint over it.
Stripping only really becomes necessary if you painted over it a handful of times already. Especially since a sword usually is just a flat space.
Unless there is some engraving or whatever you are not even losing detail.

You can also use some fine grit sandpaper on it, if it's a regular old 'pointy finger' pose.

Like this?

Infinity higlander #3

Looksh nishe.

I live in a Dorm so I cant use spray primer inside. The humidity outside is 70%+ on average.

Am I screwed?

You could ghetto rig a spray booth.
Or just put your stuff inside a box and lay some newspapers around it.
It's gonna stink your place up though, so not something I'd do before going to sleep or if you're planning to spend the rest of the day in your room.

Just saying you can absolutely do it.

In any case you should try it on a piece of sprue or scrap first, just to be sure the paint comes out nice.
You can try outside an a day that feels less humid and see what happens.

I don't think painting over it will work. I used dark steel metallic paint and applied a couple coats, then I realized it would look nicer if it had a light red glaze since it is on a fire giant. Sandpaper should work though.

If you're a collegefag, take your primer and pieces to the art building and find a studio. Spray in there. Before you start, give it a little test spray away from figures to make sure you don't accidentally "frost" them because that can happen when you start spraying.

I'm looking for a paint to match the pinkish-red color used in this scheme. Any ideas? Citadel seems to be failing me here.

My group is thinking of starting a rogue trader game and I want to make a model for my character.

I am considering using part of the tempest scions commander model Or at least his overcoat and kitbashing something together.

Does Veeky Forums have any thoughts on potential parts to use?

VMC Old Rose or Salmon Rose maybe?

>Does Veeky Forums have any thoughts on potential parts to use?
Not without any information about your character. Otherwise it's just "use everything".

Do you have parkingsons?

Well I am going for a typical Rogue Trader, So a typical space privateer.

So I am mostly looking at different bits that could be used.

Maybe one of those mixed with a bit of red could work out. Salmon is not a really common war-gaming color.

Are you using the macro setting on your camera, and a stand?

In that case check out HF. They have a nice bunch of Space Pirates.
Two of them are modeled after Jes Godwin and John Blanche themselves.
Reaper's Chronoscape range has a bunch of of minis that fit the bill, as well as quite a wide selections of good oldfashioned pirates.
If you are willing to consider regular pirates as conversion fodder you should also check out Black Scorpion and Freebooter's Fate.
Rogue Stars also has several minis in their range you could use without and conversion work whatsoever (the name is kind of a sly giveaway).

For other dudes in coats from the GW range, if you are dead set on converting something I'd check out the chaos cultist with the commissar's coat, the regular commissars, the old cadian commander that came with the command squad, the fleet advisor, Creed and the WHFB witchhunter if they still sell it.

The rest you have to fill in with your imagination I guess, cause then you could do just about anything I guess.

I do have shaky hands...
But I don't think I have Parkinson's.
No and no.

The Masque camera troll literally has me laughing my ass off...every photo is worse than the last...

I want to make my ork Painboy look pale and gross. I'm thinking of going Death guard green -> Biel-tan green -> Nurgling green. Thoughts?

sweet! damn good job man.

I'm new to this painting stuff but I'm in Guam and it is always above 50% humidity. I wait for it to be kinda dry outside, with wind. I spray from as far away as I can stretch my arms (manlet so not very far) and use the wind to carry little primer particulates to my models. I do it right on the porch and IMMEDIATELY put them back inside the kitchen after super thin coat. I sometimes let the models stay splotchy half primed half grey and then wait til its dry to do a second coat. I've only had like 2 or 3 things turn out with that lumpy fucked up primer coat you get from the humidity.
But like I said, I'm new and haven't seen a mini in person in over 10 years so dunno if I'm doing it right. I like my dudes tho

Finished my dank imperium primary marines :D

I've been looking up Crimson Fists guides, but what's the difference between Kantor Blue and Dark Prussian Blue from Vallejo? I've also heard that you should use Temple Guard Blue to hihlight them? I don't know much about painting, but I rather do like the Crimson Fists.

NMM canm be fun on a show piece, but you'll want to kill yourself if you try to do it on an entire squad.

I wasn't referring to any Vallejo color in particular, just meant to say that they have lots of blues. Didn't even know there is one actually called Prussian Blue.

There is no one right way to paint anything.
I just posted the GW recipes for reference.
It's a good point to start I thought, I didn't mean to confuse you.

Yeah, they have one called Dark Prussian Blue. I suppose you're correct about that, I'm just wondering what the differences between the two would look like on a model. I've heard Temple Guard Blue should be used to highligjt them since it has a green tone/influence to it, which goes with Kantor/Prussian Blue apparently?

No, most people don't use it, even here. I enjoy it though. It is a valuable tool if you want a unique army.

are they neutral?

Also what about the bases?

Norwegian marines are looking good.

Is there a non gif version of this?

You deserve a (you). Those are looking really good.They could use a bit of matte on the shoulders, love the stripes on the bolters(? is that what they're called) at the back.

oh yeah, haven't done the bases. Still trying to decide how to do them. Probably gonna go for green turf so they can play football on it. Maybe some flowers. idk.
Thanks :^)

you can open it in irfan view>options>extract all frames
Or any other image viewer or editing software.

Incase anyone wanted an update:

Here's the head next to the soul grinder for scale. Going to have it look like it's coming out of slimey pus flesh.
Green stuff coming in mail tomorrow! This will be a nurgle soulgrinder.

My lgs literally only has space marines and imperial guard players. One tau player and one eldar player.

Cheers I will check them out.

Yeah I put a gloss varnish on the shoulders because I wanted them to be slightly glossy. I'm shining a light directly on them in this photo so it's a bit exaggerated.

Yeah I kind of became obsessed with hazard stripes. They make for great spot details. same with checkers

this is really nice!
If you figure out something to do with the Lord of Contagion, do share!

HOLY HELL EVERYONE RUN!!!!!

What do people use to get neat curvy lined camo like pic related? Using an airbrush i've tried repeatedly with blutac but i always inevitably end up with fuzzy lines in places, and worst of all the blutac tends to rip off bits of paint when it comes off.
Doing some fw russes so there's quite a few recesses to get into.

If you can do the majority of the work with an airbrush you just need a big brush to neaten up the edges quickly.

Very nice!

I converted it into a static jpg.

Painting things on gives you a different shade than an airbrush though.

I guess that is fair. But you can do more than one coat with an airbrush, that shouldn't be a big issue I think.

If you check the Duncan videos I think he did it entirely with a brush.
Big brush can be pretty quick too.

I dunno, I always thought for this particular kind of patterns the soft transitions work well.
I recently stumbled over a pretty nice WIP thread on B&C, where somebody used a sponge instead. Doesn't look bad either.
Here's a link
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/269375-wip-thread-711th-ccab-chocochip-rats/

Depends on what you are going for.

Another option may be to just paint a black or brown line over the transition and make a minor adjustment to the camo pattern that way.

Or switch from blutac to masking tape. That should get you cleaner lines too I think.

I'm aware of how difficult it will be. I'm in a weird mindset right now where I find newer and better ways to paint minis, which only end up taking more time to do. I then can't go back to the faster way of doing this because I get hung up on the fact that I am not making my guys look to the best of my ability.

It's silly but I really want to pour out all my skill into my stuff, even if it's on something as minor as a scout because it feels like if I am not pushing my limits I will not improve at all.

don't listen to this person. you don't want fumes in your dorm. the chaos black spray is fine in humidity, i live in Florida and even after rain it's still alright. The Corax White shit never works though.

>you don't want fumes in your dorm
yeah no shit, sherlock, that's why I said he shouldn't do it when he's around afterwards...

opening a window or something goes without saying I think.

Spraying rattlecans in your own living quarters is retarded for more reasons than that.

Nobody said that it's a great idea...

Hi, an idea how I can fix this (synth bristles)? Also general brush care advices for a starting hobbyist are welcome.

W i p

Thanks user, i do want a sharp edge to the camouflage i guess i just have to mask small areas and fight it back from either sides to clean up but god what a pain. dug up some liquid mask so that should help a bit.

>danish flag
>thinks they're norwegian

Hello burger.

How does GW's Purity Seal Spray hold up?

I've seen a video of a guy that has been in the hobby for over ten years, claiming it to be great. I also read a bunch of stuff about it being not so great, (the usual suspects, frosting etc.)
but I know that a lot of complaints about varnish spray comes from people who don't know how to use them properly. I need to know because I want to varnish my new Dark Angels and I have never used this product before.

I'm thinking of picking some up today and I want to be sure.

very nice weathering. How long did it take for you to get that good?

I´m not that good of a painter,
but heck..

IT IS NOT DIFFICULT TO MAKE A GOOD PHOTO

fucking hell, look at your photos before you send it

a fucking todler is able to make a better picture of their recent lego creation

Vallejo's Salmon Pink + literally any red.
Save pure Salmon Pink for highest highlights.
Shade with red, or even hull red/tank brown
Deepest shadows can be darkened by green glazes/wash (only if you like high-contrast style of painting)

I swear by pic related. It's matte though, but it does a great job at sealing. I've heard enough horror stories with Purity Seal to not risk minis I've spent hours painting on it.

paint eyelashes over with skin tone. It should look creepier/less toy-like that way

GW sprays do okay with humidity. What they do not like is heat. At all.

I live in Georgia and typically only spray at night.

nice, but from what chapter are they?

>This will be a nurgle soulgrinder.
Slaanesh would be fitting more, in my opinion
anyway, looks creppy, I like it

I'm working on a base for a better Rowboat Gullymean. First time trying out a marble effect, tell me how i'm doing so far.

I like them alot, but i have to say, the first thing that shot through my head while looking at them was just "Well, these guys look really bland." And they do, there is no amound of high contrast on your minis, nothing that really draws the eye. Sorry to be so harsh, but i really do think that you can do better. Have you thought about adding some wear & tear to them? That usually looks really great on white armour.

Looking good there, user. You might want to think about adding some more chipping on his feed and kneepads, that's usually were the paintwork tends to chip in the first place and the look quite pristine on your model.

It wasn't even intentional, I'm just that bad.

looks awesome

Mostly done with these two. I feel like I should add some white/bone freehand decals on it but idk what to put.

I think it's fuckin rad.

>5 mb
Thin your fuckin images.

Try panzerputty

Most of the faggots here are phoneposters taking their phottos with their cheetos covered fingers.

Phoneposters should be euthanized on sight.

jesus just stop

masking fluid - vallejo makes some

really nice overall. the paint looks a bit chunky in places (around the letters, particularly, which are a mess) also something about the stark contrast between the marble and the metal seems like it'll be awfully distracting, but thats aesthetics and not technique

nice gems, great colors! those scorch marks or whatever they're supposed to be look really bad though.

cut tamiya tape into whatever shape

thanks. What about army painter stuff? any experience? I ask because that is a lot easier to come by where I live.

finished more of this freaking terrain last night

>got Plague Marines
>only have paints for Blood Angels
>don't want to paint them puke green anyway
wat do?

Paint them a sickly white