WIP thread

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=YiYayt6IgtM
youtube.com/watch?v=q4mC3Y4Dw-E
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

first for ultrasmurfs

posted this in the old one. I redid the scrolls and banner.
does it look better now?

Also: the red paint spill on the right was cleaned up after taking the photo.

Ok, a really rough mashup of what I'm trying to do for a Decimator. I can see already that I'll need to either somehow bulk up the legs or find more suitable ones, and I'm not sure on the head yet. Thoughts?

...

Hey guys,

finished my very first Greenstuff project yesterday and wanted to share it with you.
Was kind of a pain in the ass cause one arm broke apart from the rest while I was working the pattern in, so I had to finish both parts, let them dry and than connect them.

What do you think? Any tips for future Greenstuff works.

btw. next profect will be sniper in full ghillie suit

Looks comfy.

Cloaks are awesome, it is just a pity that you are essentially covering up a large portion of a model putting one on.

Frontal shots?

Front view.

Rifle is missing some highlights in this pic btw.
Finished it today but forgott to take a picture.

>Any tips for future Greenstuff works.
Nothing specific in reply to the photo, just as a general tip:
Work in layers. Makes it a whole lot easier.
for example with this you could first add the cloak with a flattened piece of GS, let that dry, add the fold and volume where you like it, maybe cut the edges straight once that is cured and then move on to do the texture and finally the hood.

Takes longer, but gives you more control ultimately. Also means the working time for each bit you are trying to do is a bit longer. Don't have to rush yourself that much.

I think this is especially useful for things that are standing/hanging free or are otherwise likely to move if you manipulate them. Stuff that benefits from having an armature.

yea I think it looks more like actual text now than thick lines.

Thank you.

>it is just a pity that you are essentially covering up a large portion of a model putting one on.

Yea thats kinda true.
But the bitz with the weapon and arm allready had a cape that covered most of the model and torso/legs are standard guard bitz, so nothing to spectacular is covered.

The rifle could use some camo. Some Ghillie stuff wrapped around the barrel could work, or even just a camo paint job on the black parts.

>Work in layers. Makes it a whole lot easier.

I will do this next time.
Did the whole cape at ones (without the hood).
The Greenstuff started drying halfway through so I hurried up and broke the arm.

Not him but keep the GS wet while you work. Just a bit of water. It won't harden as fast and make smoothing easier.

God that looks twenty times better user. Good work

I was thinking about some kind of camo netting.
Any Idea how to do that (with or without greenstuff) ?

Looks pretty nice.

Maybe go for a smaller head, this way the legs will not look as tinny as they look now.

It would be hard to do proper netting in the sense of having holes in it. You could make some really thin strips of GS and wrap them around and etch a weave pattern or something on them. Or do the same style as the suit.

I like the proportions and silhouette generally, but the head is kinda screwing with the aesthetic. It's a cool shape on its own, but it says bionicle or infinity while the rest of the bitz say grimdark

To answer that question in the last thread, best thing to have on the TV or radio in the background is the Cricket, especially Test Match Special. Peak comfy.

youtube.com/watch?v=YiYayt6IgtM
youtube.com/watch?v=q4mC3Y4Dw-E

what I did for my German sniper model was cutting some really thin strips of tissue paper, wrapping it around the gun barrel and then soak it in watered down PVA. worked fine.

stretch some bandages (I think americans call it gauze?) out or cut them vaguely into shape

Yeah, bandages frozen with PVA (after you tie them on) is probably your best bet.

did a raptor boss

I feel weird for saying this but I think this looks way better than the FW model. The silhouette and proportions are great, you just need some work tying the parts in together. The head needs more baroque trim, as do the legs, as well as actual talons on the toes.

I fucking love the idea of proper daemon engines created from scratch as being these lanky, super fast, super efficient murderbots because the Dark Mechanicum are able to optimise the shit out of their designs, as opposed to the dogmatic AdMech.

And his friends :)
I'm slowly figuring out what kind of base looks nice

I feel like bright copper plasma coils are an underrated aesthetic.

Neat stripes my dude

Now, it is some good work, but if I may, using gaze (bandages) is much mucb easier, and time saving. Just unwind it to jave a single layer of gaze, use washes on it before putting it onto the model. There was a tutorial with a guardsman, can't remember where, should jave saved it. The result it was pretty good.

Ok, posted this a few threads ago and didn't really get anything.
I got some metal painboys a while back and the first one turned out really good, the thing is I just don't know how I should go about painting this guy.
His head just fucks with the color scheme I had going for all my orks and I dont know if I should just straight up paint him red and white or something else entirely. Any input on this would be helpful.

God damn I'm jelly

Pretty sure a few chinamen carry those

I find them too similar to the rest of the bronze of the model desu

They're sculpted on the mini which helps a lot. That said my masking is almost as good, which I'm pretty proud of.

The thumbnail made me think it was based off that one Evangelion monster with the ribbon arms

I thought so too and I actually hit it with another tiny highlight of silver/gold mix on the very peaks of the coils. It also doesn't help my desk lamp is bright as FUCK so the bronze trim looks might brighter and shinier than it really is, when in reality there's a pretty significant difference between the gun and trim. I'll take some more pics in natural light tomorrow.

I have no clue why FW discontinued these minis, they're absolutely gorgeous. I'm really, really motivated to do it justice.

>meanwhile the IW Contemptor is so fuck ugly even the FW team don't want to paint it
>it's the only Legion Contemptor without colour photos

I like it but what if you put like an orange highlight and then barely a red highlight to make the bronze coils look like they're cooling down?

10/10 stripes btw

Trying to do a Weeping Legion with more old blood stains and other stuff leaking from wounds, how is it so far? I'm kind of considering using dried blood and recent blood ala Blood for the Blood God in the holes/closest part to cracks and wounds since it doesn't seem like Nurgle's Rot shows up well on the main armor color. I could also do maybe a The Cleaved style of brown and dark green leaking from armor parts. I also think that highlighting all of the small pieces Pallid Wych Flesh might be detrimental to how dirty other parts look so I've only highlighted a few spots that color but should I go for the whole thing coverage wise?

Also don't worry I'm getting rid of that hideous piece of sprue still left on the backpack I still can't believe I missed the damn thing.

I've been looking at the new Reiver Marines and was wondering if it would be possible to convert them into some kind of counts-as for Kataphrons. Add beep boop robot heads, fuel tanks, mechanical parts, have them have gun arms etc. So rather than tank men they're Big Marine sized Kastellan style things.

Is this a good/bad idea?

To make matters worse about that contemptor, you have an absolutely gorgeous model here that ain't even playable in 40k

Sorry for the potatoe phone cam. Working on some Dark Angel Primaris. What do you guys think?

Good to hear I'm on the right track. Worked on leg plating and found a new option for a head. This one I'll probably not use since the rest of the machine is strictly mechanical.

Any ideas on what to use for a head besides the Knight/Defiler masks? I want to maintain an elongated animal appearance

What the fuck is this? Makes no sense

Nice Salamanders.

Pretty good, but I'd darken the green a little bit. Right now it's a bit too reminiscent of the salamanders. Maybe one diluted wash of Nuln Oil, so that only the very sharpest edges and the crest of the shoulderpad has that vibrant green colour?

>Necrosphinx head.

Man, this thing is getting some mileage for chaos conversions.

cricket

see

shame test match cricket is dying a slow death and TMS isn't what it used to be either.

Is this just for miniatures? What happened to the other one? The WIP and world building were the only reason I came here. Not trying to be a dick, I'd just like to know if I should go ahead and find something else.

Anything light grey or white is chinaman. I'm not crazy enough to try converting things with real stuff since I'm likely to just fuck it all up anyway

dunno what other WIP thread you are referring to, but worldbuilding is another general.
If it's not up, make one.

Not that I'm advocating for buying from the red menace, but consider using a different chinaman. The sphinx parts here are alternatively sourced and are made of hard plastic and pretty fucking perfect.

Who are those pieces from? A.?

Z actually

Z? They look surprisingly high quality. I didn't know he used hard plastic

Hate to break it to you, but even though some of Z's look like plastic, they are absolutely resin. Besides, Coolcast is miles ahead of Z in quality

Yeah you can get dogshit resin recasts of older models, but his newer GW stuff at least is often 'on sprue'. I ordered the limited terminator chaplain and the sprue looked like fresh out of the blister.

Anyone know a good substitute for Nurgle's Cauldron, or should i just use green stuff?

Well that sure destroyed my innocence. Still - no bubbles, no release agent, no smells, no warping and no fucking channels everywhere. Goddamn ancient chinese magic.

>Goddamn ancient chinese magic.

That's how it always starts... very small.

Indeed, you got lucky. I stopped ordering conversion fodder from Z because they were always terribly misaligned

>3-16-2017
Any pictures of the finished thing?

He's changed a lot over the years. Picked up a Knight Styrix from him, and the thing was damn near perfect.

Posted it before, but sure.

post some Death Guard inspo please

Really nice model

Are his DKOK just as good as that sphinx?

Have my terminators from last month.

I said it then, i'll say it now. I envy you for your clear paintjobs.

...

Actually came here to post my current project: Some 25 cultists that i mostly rescued off ebay.

Sorry about the shitty potato picture, i was too lazy to set up my lightbox.

Thanks mate. As for DKOK - I doubt it. Those are old, small resin models with lots of fragile bits sticking out.

>I envy you for your clear paintjobs.
And I envy people that can make their models look worn without them turning into steaming piles of shit. Those are some suitably disgusting looking nurglites you have there.

>As for DKOK - I doubt it. Those are old, small resin models with lots of fragile bits sticking out.
Yeah, that's what I thought. I may try to pick them up from A. I'll report news if they're good

Lo Pan? Which Lo Pan? Little old basketcase on wheels, or the ten-foot-tall roadblock?

Does highlighting look good on vehicles?

It depends on the vehicle and the style you're going for. Sometimes it does.
You're talking about edge highlighting right?

I want to replicate this result and tried to wash a rhino. Unfortunately I didn't come close to the darkness of pic related.

How much nuln oil or devlan mud would I need to use to achieve a similar result?

I have Z's dkok. They are medium quality. Some of their coats will be raggedy and some boots are misaligned. Alpharius has better ones but for a bigger price. I have both Z and Alpharius models.

3 coats of nuln if not more.

They're not nearly as hot. I've ordered quite a few, and find some of the molds to be misaligned by a tiny bit.

It's nothing you can't handle with some work.

yeah edge highlighting, I'm painting a predator in dark purple and wanted to use genestealer purple for higlights

That's a lot.
Would it save time to mix the red with a drop of black before applying the red coat?

I like edge highlights on my Rhino chassis vehicles. They're perfect for that.

I'm about to drop 50 squid into a set of citadel paints. This includes the base spray. It should do my entire army. I've tried Vallejo and didn't like it. Is it just a case of bite the bullet? I'll go down to my lgs tomorrow. I'm sure they'll laugh with glee.

tried em all and I still like citadel the most.

That's not really He-Man hair. He-Man had a Prince Valiant. Bangels have more of a Romanesque thing going on, because they're pretty much Renaissance Marines.

Just transfer them to dropper bottles as quick as you can

It's the hairstyle I like on my twinks so I guess it works

How i should do bases /tg\?!

Before assembly.

As it is too late for that, just use some texture paint from GW, then wash and drybrush. That would be the quickest way barring bare unpainted sand.

>How i should do bases /tg\?!

I'm doing my newer bases with fine, rocky basing sand, accented with static grass or grass tufts. For me, though, that means gluing the sand on *before* priming. That'd be a huge risk for you on such nice paint jobs.

Maybe take the easy way out?

It would save time to just use khorne red, its a darker red and you would only need maybe 1 coat of nuln oil.

If thats not an option, then a small drop of black will help darken it up.

Does anyone have inspiration for a white/red focused paint scheme for death guard? My buddy really wants to use those colors and he split the box with me but I'm not imaginative when it comes to that

I meant what flavor.

Like, what would look good

There's no reason to do bases. Just pretend like they're not there.

Unless you have an army for each board type.

Dude, make it sand colored bases as well. We fucking crusade as fuck now.

Just point them at the Saracens!

You are one of those people that need a serious shovel smash on their fucking faces.

Thanks buddy. I do have khorne red.

Asphalt/ roads like

In any case, something dark.

Great inspiration for my primaris dudes. I like the little touches here and there, like the laurels on the ancient's helmet and the hazard stripes on the assault bolters.

Base with vallejo texture paint?