WIP - Work In Progress General

>stupid weeb posting copy pasta for attention

okay, Hentai Kamen guy... banana/kidney shaped swamp... you see it panty shaped... okay...

I started to paint up my nurgle horror, gonna make the claws more brown and the tounge abit brighter and maybe try having strands of goo hanging off it and its claws.
I'm not sure what I want to colour the tips of his tendrils though, should I go lighter or try a different colour shade to really make it stand out?
Looking good

Looks real peaceful, kinda reminds me of the spots I'd find when i used to explore the woods as a lad

Working on an npc for my dnd campaign, was trying out wet blending on the belly and was hoping for some C&C.

Any advice or tips, like advice on color for moving forward would be appreciated too. I'm experimenting a lot on this and a few other reaper minis and I'm willing to try new things.

I've been working on the idea of a custom battle standard bearer for empire, No idea of the optimal way to sit his 'lance' arm for now, but fairly happy with how the rest is coming along.

goo is always a good choice, why don't you have contrasting soft tendril/spiky bit colouring. I've done the same with a chaos spawn giving it's spikey arms a hardened carapace look while the soft ones had a lighter fleshy shade. went well!

Posting my WIP knights again, now with a better resolution!

cardboard stairs

Care to show us your spawn? I could always use the inspiration.

What could I use as a statue for a urban 40k board apart from the classic marine statue? Looking for fountains as well

Giant aquila? Reliquary full of skulls? Miniature bell of lost souls? Orphanarium?

I was thinking like some 3d party statue that would look nice on a 40k board

Nice ideas though

Take an Oscar and paint it

generic statues will work, so will ornate columns, keep in mind that local government officials will put up statues of themselves or local heroes.
Just spruce things up with skulls and aquilas.

After a week of making all the colours nice and clean on these guys, I'm finally getting to the fun parts of griming and rusting them up. A lot is still unfinished, but I've gotten to the point where I'm happy to show them off.

so this is what ill be spending my week working on.

These new dragon dildos really aren't doing it for me anymore.

So after all the great feedback from my beakie last thread I got to work on just a normal marine, who came with an assault harness for some reason. Don't ask why.

Anyway so even though I know this isn't the best work, I'd like to know how my paint control is going. Am I still slapping on too much? Are details getting covered up? I think I did well, but obviously that's coming from an amateur's eye. Anything else that I'm missing would be appreciated too.

And yes, I know I need to drill the barrel and stuff, but at the moment I'm not really concerned about that kind of thing. I'd like to know what basic mistakes I'm making before I move on to more "advanced" stuff like washed and highlighting and putting the pauldrons on the right shoulders.

Also, sorry for the disassembled-ness, I took the photo while rushing out the door. I can take better ones later.

Put almost anything on a pedestal and psint it stone/metallic... Wander through a toy store's figurine aisle.

Dude on a horse. Dude with a flag. Dude standing at attention with gun.

Angels. Obelisks or pillars. Eagles. Lions. Bulls. Gryphons, dragons, sphinxes.

Cut the head off a larger-than-40k scale thingy, put it on a plinth and you have a bust.

Clock tower. Nymph in a fountain. Sundial. Propaganda video-screen.

Paints a tiny bit thick, when you get down the decent consistancy its no problems to go over the bits where you might have accidently painted, like with the eye.
If your having trouble with shaky hands try rest your elbows on something or putting your wrists together when you try paint.

Keep it up!

That's a mk v chest piece not a jump pack harness

Hey friend. You're definitely putting on the paint either too thick or in too many layers. Are you overpriming the model, or is the paint that's getting on too thick? I've attached a picture of a model that's primed with decent coverage without gooping up the details.

If you're not overpriming, how are you thinning down your paints? Water or medium? What consistency are you thinning it down to? I generally work mine down to the consistency of skim milk.

To be extremely general the idea behind thinning down your paints and applying them in two or three thin layers (waiting for them to dry between layers, always!) is that you achieve good coverage without obscuring the details. The dark blue has good coverage but is too thick. The metal parts of the boltgun don' t have enough coverage.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the Mastodon Carrier? I'm thinking about a 30k Word Bearers army, and I kinda want to make a giant rolling war-cathedral on two pairs of tracks to be a centrepiece. Rest of the army is Cultist blobs, summoning and Gal Vorbak dropping in everywhere, with a couple Vindicators and Dreads for heavy firepower.

>the consistency of skim milk.

So...water?

Shoebox sized.

Not quite. Specifically I use a 1:1 mixture of paint to medium, plus any additional moisture that soaks up through my wet palette. It flows together extremely well without being runny (because you still need to be able to control where your paint goes).

Heres an update

Thanks, I forgot to go back over that. I generally think I've got a good hand, but when it comes to the eyes I always overdo it. A pass of blue usually fixes that though.
rip
When I prim the model (one coat) with undiluted black it usually comes out as more of a smokey color (I can snap a pic later if you want), so I don't think I'm overdoing it there.

However when it comes to watering down my paint I've been having troubles. It sounds like what you're supposed to do is get paint on the brush then dip it in water, but every time I do this (even barely getting any water on it at all) the consistency becomes extremely watery and will shrink on the model, which looks terrible. What I'm doing can't be right, but I can't think of another technique.

Also, the silver I used for the boltgun is the same as the color on his harness. The reason it's so dark is because I tried to be a little fancy and darken it by not putting as much on so more of the black primer would stand out and make it more of a gunmetal grey. With this in mind, is that still bad coverage or am I in the clear?

Thanks for all the help everyone, I really appreciate it!

is that you again, Land Raider Church user?

looks nice to me

Not 2 shabby. What did you do for the ovals; circle punch on both ends then cut out the middle?

Are you spray priming or using gesso / Imperial Primer?

For thinning your paint you actually really want to use a palette so you can control how much water and paint you're mixing together. I'll take a picture of mine if it will help any.

Basically use your brush to collect some paint from the pot, put that paint down on the palette. Then use your brush to collect a tiny amount of water from your water pot (keep in mind brushes can soak up and store a ton of water!). All you need to do is briefly dip the tip of your brush into the water and capillary action will do the rest. Then you mix that water into your paint on the palette. Make sure to clean your brush.

The nice thing about this method is that if you water it down too much you can add more paint, or if you didn't thin it enough you can add a smidge more water.

If you want a darker metallic on the boltgun I suggest getting good coverage with Leadbelcher / Boltgun Metal / Gunmetal Gray and then using Nuln Oil / Black Wash to darken it.

Thanks man

Afraid not, although I took a considerable chunk of inspiration from a guy a few months back making the Spartan Assault Church. I just like giving each of my armies a centrepiece of some kind, even if it's kinda small - my Inquisition allies have their converted Goliath Truck pimpmobile with etched brass decals and the black-and-red paint job, my Genetors have the Whale-Stormbird WIP that is currently sitting in some Simple Green to remove the paint that came on it and my Word Bearers will have the Siegebury Cathedral.

First time I've ever painted anything

I tried to make a video but I couldn't do it on my shitty camera and without a tripod, sorry. Need three hands.

The WIP here is my own painting skill;
These are some of the first two Nurgle CSM I painted. I basically primed white, then did Nurgling green where I wanted, Agrax Earthshaded all over, and did a mix of leadbelcher and nuln oil for the guns. More to follow.

Thin your paints. Also there is a pretty obvious moldline on the rightmost marine's backpack.

More marines later down. The Blight King Obliterator involved my first edge highlighting, and splotching of nurgling green on a base coat, instead of being the base coat.

Yes boys, finally got some time for some therapy.. I mean modelling. Ignoring my half done predator for now, this evenings task, prepping some more plaguebearers.

Looking smart.

Solid start, get some colour in there to break up the silver.

Im getting to thinned paints lol Just showing my progress over time
A more standard base coating now, with work being done on the nurgling splotches. (The model was my brother's; this is after trying to fix up the actual holes and such)

Why did my base coat give them a texture?

>Why did my base coat give them a texture?

How was the temperature combined with the humidity the day/time you sprayed him? Hot is bad, stuffy is bad, hot and stuffy is the worst!

Next along the progress path is a Maw-Krusha. Not much new in techniques used.

Hot. 90-100 degrees in my garage. Super dry. (Live in Desert)

And lastly, one of my more recent models. For my necron army, I decided to actually start trying out thinning my paints. Now with my next batch of destroyers (still in the works), I will be practicing gap filling and things. That's all!

Cut with a Silhouette cameo plotter

not that bad, they could just use a few highlights, especially at the edges

Finished painting my Emperor's Champion. I think he came out decently, the trim on the shoulder pads is kinda messy and edge highlighting is still a bitch, but otherwise alright.
Also you almost can't tell that the sword is warped from this angle. Thanks Finecast

another angle

...

Thanks! Only like 2 other people in my group of friends even bother to paint their stuff, so I don't have that much competition :P
Maybe highlighting will be a near future goal then to properly learn it

I'm using black paint as primer (I can get the official name when I get home) so I think the latter.

And are you saying it's better to paint normally then darken, versus underpainting in an effort to let more of the black through?

I think I get the idea, thanks. I'll paint another guy using your technique and get back to you.

I like the sarong, but the white on the shoulder pads and the gold is just far too chunky. You might want to redo those parts.

The camera makes it look a little chunkier than it actually is but I see what you mean, white and gold are always colors I have trouble getting right.

Quick what type of drill should I buy for gun barrels
Specifically something I could get at Home Depot

You shouldn't use a drill they would probably damage your minis, use a pin vice, the Army Painter one is a little more than $10 and comes with drill bits for minis specifically. You won't find it at Home Depot though, usually in hobby shops or game shops.

I got a pin vice from micro center for $3. It does a fantastic job. You will need a set of small bits as well.

I can't tell if it's supposed to be navy blue or black, and the white on the shoulder is a little messy, but other than that I think you did a bang-up job! The cross on his shoulder and the highlighting on his loincloth are both pretty well done.

He finished it - along with a chapel Rhino

Thanks, I always have trouble with white, it's a real pain in the ass to paint properly. I don't do a whole lot of freehanding so I'm fairly proud of how the cross came out. Glad you like it.
His armor is supposed to be black, to clarify.

Early wip of some scourges. Assembled with 7th edition in mind, but excited to try them in 8th. My thinned nuln washes dry looking shitty, anyone have tips to combat that? I was thinking a layer of gloss but I don't like how gloss looks after I spray dullcote

That's the one. Nice.

A Mastodon-sized Chaos Cathedral in the same vein of that was the plan, although I don't know where half those bitz are from and they would be kinda handy.

I love those, but why do they have so much mixed iconography?

I think the majority are from the garden of morr kit (or whatever name it has for aos)

I'm looking forward to your updates. Always great to see people looking to improve.

> On primer
If you're using Abbadon Black out of the paint pot that might be part of your problem. It's not primer (more on that later) and it's a layer or two of paint that you're putting on and thickening up your mini.

Primer is a specially formulated paint that contracts and shrinks as it dries. The bare plastic (or metal or resin) of a miniature doesn't provide a great surface for paint to adhere to, so that's why we use primer first. You could buy GW or Army Painter's primers but for black I'd just go and get some regular primer from a hardware store. Make sure it says matte primer specifically, not matte paint, not gloss primer, etc.

> On dark paints
I'd say it's better to either create a dark shade of your paint by mixing it on your palette, or darkening it up after with dark washes. I get that you can apply a single thin coat that lets the undercoat show through, but there're a few problems
1) A single thin coat may not be smooth.
2) You won't have the same amount of thinning and same coverage over all your miniatures, leading to an inconsistent paintjob.

it's the garden of morr kit, and/or sigmarite mausoleum
games-workshop.com/de-AT/Morrs-Garten
games-workshop.com/de-AT/Sigmarite-Mausoleum-2017
other parts like the candles are custommade (what I know, he used some sort of "plastic-tubes" and greenstuff for the candles)

Hot damn, I wish I could put that amount of effort into my minis

>garden of morr
TY anons, that looks about perfect if I combine it with some of the various Imperial Sector bits and probably two sets of tracks if I can find some suitable ones. Weapons can be jazzed-up Baneblade sponsons with Kastelan flamers instead of Hbolters, not sure what to do with the Melta Array but I suspect it will involve Knight Thermal Cannon.

I'll draw up some plans and look for good tracks, and try and find the Mastodon dimensions.

High temperature is terrible for spray paints, 60-75 should be your sweet spot.
>i live in desert
do it really early in the morning or in the evenings when temperature is just right.
Just so you know, low temperatures are just as bad so you still have to aim for 60-75

What's the difference between the twos?

The Sigmarite one is literally just two Morr's Gardens from what I can tell...

not much actually, the sigmarite mausoleum is basically two repacked morr's gartens
so yeah, the one difference is, one has more stuff into it

good to know. thankfully ive only done a few so far.

Quick update on garran branatar homecoming edition. The colours are mostly in place, although some cleaning is yet to be done.
Also started highlighting here and there.

The minis are clearly separate. You can place whatever mini you want on the tanks balcony.

The chaplain is supposed to go on the Land Raider Cathedral and the chaos priest on the Rhino Church.

they're both word bearers stuff. the guys who used to preach about the emperor and shit. I don't really know why they have mixed iconography because they're worshiping chaos stuff now, but I guess it kinda works with them? (you can see on the land raider that there is clearly a full skeleton with some chaos-y symbol attached to it, clearly not imperial)

Working on the Geigor from BoP. First time doing S.Wolves, but I do like their gray 30k colour scheme without the blue from 40k.

Any ideas on what colors to use to drybrush my Iron Hands tactical marines? On my characters i edge highlight dark reaper and thunderhawk blue. Should i use the same ones for drybrushing?

don't drybrush marines

If i have to edge highlight every single tacmarine i'm gonna go fucking insane.

So go insane. At least your minis will look presentable for it.

Dark Reaper and thunderhawk blue then wash with nuln oil.

Edge highlighting isn't that hard man. Just use some runefang steel and run the side of your brush on any lines. Drybrushing just looks really sloppy. It should only be used for really dense texture and things like weathering.

Oh boo hoo poor little space marine player.
I play Orks, how do think I feel?
That's why I cheat and only highlight the skin metal and purple on my boyz

Not the guy but I only really enjoy the results of Drybrushing when painting Cloth, Weathering, skeletons and Terrain. I does work alright On marines on the backpacks and shoulderpads but you sometimes need to "correct" the slips on the shoulderpads

Duncans drybrushing tutorials look fine though.

Is it possible to obtain this effect on some shallow puddles in a model? I'm looking at some videos on AK Interactive and man do I want to try those weathering effects

Guys do you have any advice or suggestions on how to convert my own Warboss in Mega Armour, I feel like the meganobz models are too small.

With the new Secret Weapon stuff it is

Get a Megaboss from Sigmar and put a power klaw and some guns on it and you got yourself a big Ork in Mega Armour

>Secret Weapon
I can't find it? Is it a pigment?