WIP - Work In Progress General

Work in Progress - "Working on the 4th of July sucks!" Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw

>Previous Thread(s):

Working on some objective markers with some extra bits I had and some I got from my friend.

So I just did a test of striping a few models with Dettol, it worked quite well, but they are still sticky after rinsing with water. How do I end the stickyness? Kitchen roll?

Have some more jean stealer cultists

Are you joking or something? Or is this some non-burger things people actually use?

The top torso, arms, rear leg armor and top of the head are Heldrake
Underside of the torso is two forward sections of the Defiler hull cut and joined together. Plate just above the head came from a Soul Grinder. Not sure where the head sensor and torso connector came from. Dreadnought power plant. Under the power plant is the cable bunch from the Maulerfiend.

Legs are Sentinel while the feet are reversed Killa Kan feet with Sentinel toes. Upper leg armor from the Maulerfiend, lower is cut down Defiler claw armor.

Then as many wires and cables as you can find. I've actually got enough for another one if I can find a couple more Defiler hulls.

Aaaaand another update as I start putting pin washes on.

Washing up liquid might help. Stick some on a toothbrush, scrub the models under water and see if it improves.

If not, soak them again in Dettol then try the above again.

>10 y/o cousin asks if he can help me put together new models
>tell him he can help cut out pieces
>show him how to do a couple then let him get to work
>everything looks fine
>except the back door hatch for my Rhino (the one that is supposed to open and close)
>he cut off a few centimeters of the peg part that is supposed to go into the hole on each side so it's too short to fit
>the pieces he cut off are mutilated and wouldn't fit back in the hole after I glued them back on
Is there a way to order specific parts to be replaced? Or would they maybe send me a replacement door if I called and explained what happened and politely asked for one?

They're usually pretty nice about this. Worth calling them.

Need sculpting/converting ideas for a Knight Atrapos possessed by a Herald of Tzeentch. Some user posted this in the last thread and I'm definitely gonna give it a shot. Still need sculpting ideas though.

Better to prime Carcharodons black or White?

You're gonna want a healthy amount of warpflame action. Maybe have some horrors jumping around on it or the base.

Checked and I will call them tomorrow

Lord of Change parts would be good for it. How's your free hand game?

I washed them in soapy water then a quick rinse afterwards

dettol is not a joke

An user vouched for "Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X" pretty strongly last thread. Anyone here have an opinion on it?

Not that user but I like it and it beats getting Jew'd by Citadel's $20 spray can primer. They are pretty cheap (under $5 I think) so you can buy a can and test it out with one model to see if you like it.

More work on these scourges. Scheme is looking pretty Joker-y so far, though that wasn't the intent

I used it on these

For under $10 that sounds worth it to at least try. I'll try it out tomorrow and then post the results to see if it's helped (I'm the thinning fag from last thread)

Non-existant. I don't wanna go too feathery with it because I have another Knight that I'm gonna do a lot of feathers on. I'm making an army of 5 Knights each possessed by a different daemon of Tzeentch. Got good fluff and conversion ideas for all of em except for the Herald. He's gonna be horror-like (as in pic related) and I just need a way to translate this into Knight.

rinse with the dettol itself you mong

Wasn't me last thread but I regular shill them. I've used the White, Black, and now Grey matte primer. I used it to prime this.

Couple more brutes done.

I primed these guys (and plenty of other minis) with grey Rustoleum 2x, and I've been extremely happy each time. Never had a loss of detail due to the primer.

Valhallan sergeant wip. Gonna have a cable going from the pommel of the mace to the bit on his belt next to the grenades. Anything I should change before I glue everything?

What models are these?

/wip/ you gotta help me, I'm at the end of my rope here
I've had these grots sitting in Super Clean for like a week now and the primer (old Chaos Black spray I believe) will not come off. Also, some of the color is still sticking in a few places.
Should I just paint over the primer or leave to soak even longer.

Another shot

>Wasn't me last thread but I regular shill them.

It was me. My opinion shouldn't count twice, though.

>I've used the White, Black, and now Grey matte primer.

The model on the left was based with Rustoleum white, the model on the right, black.

>What models are these?

They're Ghar from the Beyond the Gates of Antares game.

>The model on the left was based with Rustoleum white, the model on the right, black.

Duh.

The primer may have bonded to the plastic, in which case it may never come off. My advice would be to take a toothbrush to the bits of color, then paint over the primer.

>The primer may have bonded to the plastic
Well they have been sitting in my basement for the past 5 years so maybe that's it

Also that's the result of me brushing it with a toothbrush. Might need something a little tougher to get the rest off.

Try them in isopropyl alcohol. Imo most things super clean cant strip the alcohol will and vice versa.

Isn't that bad for plastic

Not at all in my experience. It will start to work in minutes but I've left gw plastics in for weeks without damage. Don't use it for resin of course but that's most paint strippers.

I use Non-Acetone Nail Polish remover, just make sure you dont try to trip FineShit in it as I just learned earlier tonight.

R.I.P. traded Ork Weirdboy

This makes mustard gas

Incorrect.

Got it at the recommendation of some model railroaders, two 12oz cans for $6. It's thicker then hobby primers but works great.

>It's thicker then hobby primers but works great.
>thick

>let's use thick primer so that no matter how much we thin our paints we'll always have a thickly painted model

Even the thinnest spray primers are too thick once you get an airbrush.

ThickER and Thick are not the same thing. You just have to be more careful with it.

>airbrush

I bet you don't even thin your thinners

bitch nigger meet me behind the LGS

>mfw FLGS back alley fight club

Working on some Black Templars for 8th, decided to use assault marine legs for my crusader squads to give them a dynamic feeling.

Been a few years since I've really painted a lot of models, only done a handful of models for friends. Also, apologies for the low picture quality, my phone has a poor camera and my lighting setup is holding the pieces on a sheet of plasticard under my oven hood light.

Finished the skin for now, Finecast is horrible, feel like all the smaller details are fucked up

looks breddy good m8y

What's the deal, /wip/?
Why did the work in this thread suddenly fall off a fucking cliff into scrub-ville?
Did you niqqers get complacent or is this just summer shit?

It's because moronic newfags defended all the retarded 5000x5000 8 MB jpg posts

Ever notice all the best painters are also smart enough to crop and resize and take proper photos?

Enjoy the giant, shittily painted miniature photos. It's the kind of breeding grounds thes morons have circlejerked into being.

>middle of the night on a holiday
Hmmm

>poorly sized images are the only cause for how slow /wip/ is

Post your work if you're so great

There are better FB painting groups now. This place is a HUGBOX.
It really sucks.
I'm not great, but at least I'm trying

Pic related is part of my current personal project (WIP) apologies for it only being tabletop quality. Can post more of it or my current commission jobber.

Here's the base. Still lots to do on it

Some of my Dark Souls commission WIP
sorry for the extra shitty picture, only took it to give to the client as proof of progress.

I have to disagree. This place can be fucking brutal, and your shit is way better than a lot of shit that does get posted. It's only a hugbox for the stuff that's really good, they get their dicks sucked. Everyone else gets put to the torch for not being at least 8/10 most of the time.

>ALL THOSE MOLD LINES

All right then I'm convinced.

Next is a genestealer skull, right?

>genestealer skull
Yeah, gonna put it up against the metal beam.
Might paint some of the dirt creeping up the largest stone as moss. Other than that, the base is done.

No kidding. I was illustrating a point with my models last thread and still got my shit kicked in. /wip/ isn't happy unless you spend 6 hours on a genestealer (but at least it won't look like crap then)

Posted this on /40kg/ but really I should have just posted here.

So, I've got new Seekers I need to make, and since I want them to be viable for fantasy I was thinking of sticking them on the square bases. They're a bit shorter than the rounds, though, so do I need to make some shit to sit them on or wrap around the bases to make them the right size, or can I get away with having them as-is?

It looks really good. You should give him a waist scarf like the original models have though, as well as medals.

What bits/minis are those? I wish gw allowed 3rd party minis as I'd love to us plastics...

Spoopy

come on, niqqa, I wanna see that dope ass shit painted

Just as soon as I get some spackling to fill gaps

doing mk3 yiffs in regular scheme. Should I use HH transfers or 40k for left pauldron?

I had a random urge and extra bits and intentionaly made a joker heliarch. Am I a bad person?

>Am I a bad person?
no, just a bad painter

>Am I a bad person?
among other things

...

Still working on it need to green stuff the face to make it flush. But it's all wip little painting ADD never hurt nobody senpai.

Nice

>model is already painted
>I need to greenstuff it
you fucking nigger

Might as well get roasted on it all! Wyches here.

How do we improve WIP?

By finding, defeating, and absorbing the soul of someone better than you.

they aint terrible, its just that joker face gave me hemorrhoids

These guys aren't bad so far. post them once they're done.

your highlights are kinda shit. Thin your paint more and do highlights in multiple coats.
I'm not a fan of the color combinations, but on a technical level, the highlights are the only thing that's really not up to snuff.

It's simple, really; we kill the Night Haunter.

correct

paint those mushrooms. skin could use more color, too.

get that sock off your table and go clean your fucking house. is correct. Highlights are a little splotchy and on the green I can't even see them. Work on consistency.

>hemorrhoids
heh

Damn, I forget they had those! For the scarves, I think I'll try sculpting them around the back since I don't want to cover up the molded detail on the front. The medals seem like they would be easy enough to sculpt too.

The bitz list is:
>body, head, arms, and shovel from Warlord Games Winter Russians
>mace from the warhammer flagellant kit
>bolt pistol and "power pack" from the Cadian command squad kit
>backpack from the bullgryn kit

Also, you can solve your no third party minis problem by simply not having a GW store within 200 miles, like me!

Will work on the face I tried to use a needle for the mouth and goofed.
Hadent gotten to going over the highlights more will definitely do that. The pink ones are heat lances and the blue are blasters so I don't have to pick them up all the time. Will post results once stuff is altered though!

The sock is my dry brush cloth haha don't think the green is highlighted yet on any of those bikes though.

If i'm going to get an airbrush, should i get a gravity fed or siphon cup? looking at the iwata eclipse

gravity. The Eclipse is nice.

So my little brother wanted a cyberwolf, but doesn't have money for one. He had an extra wolf head and two legs, and I had machine bits, a 150mm base, and modeling clay .

How'd I do?

...

...

10/10

Looks like a cyber-rat, but I'd allow it at my table. I'm sure it'll look better once it's painted and all the extra glue is off of it though.

These sides do it more justice. Your rat-mess has dropped from a 6 to a 3.

My shit marine from last thread is finished. Any complaints on the assembly, details, etc?

RATTRAP
MAXIMIZE

Ass view

>should i get a gravity fed or siphon cup?

You wanna die, nigger?

It's just ridiculous enough that I can't dislike it, but I can't help but feel that it would have been better to sculpt a body out of green stuff. Also, you used way, way too much glue, so much that it may even show up under your primer.