WIP - /wipg/ Painting and Modeling Thread

I give it a 7^/10

Re posting from previous thread : I've been working on ice bases for my Winter themed skaven army. Those are for my rat ogres. Any advices on how to preserve the white drybrush ?

...

Now I want to paint some spare marines with popular soda color schemes

white scars

>Now I want to paint some spare marines with popular soda color schemes

Can he chugga-chugga?

Posted them in the wrong thread but here's my first mini in 4 years, could I get some pointers on it? First time trying battle damage too and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be.

Each unit based off a Crush flavor

Vallejo Smoke and white primer base are a great mix. Whipped her up yesterday

WIP sore neck edition

Ultra

Well, the funny thing is that the phone showed me the photo correctly and I didnt notice it was upside down until i saved it on my pc. The more you know I guess.

A box of storm boyz and an OOP nob I did a fancy base for to lead them, in progress.

Need to pick out the leather pants and boots a bit, and do the fur lining on the rest of the boyz, and metal bits and other various details to finish.

And a closer shot of the nob.

I'm gonna steal that idea to make autoguns for my renegade militia

One roll for Guilliman's boys

leaving the crossbolter off makes me sad

paint's good though

70% done tzaangors from the silver tower box, gold has to be shaded and highlighted, silver has to be done and some other details

what you guys think so far?

While I wait for my weathering dust to arrive, I decided to restore some broken stuff in my conversion box. Fixed this bad boy up and I've started repainting it.

Imagine a world where orks had up to date models

Paintjob is pretty good so far tho

Now in sensible file size edition.

And I'm too much of a special so-and-so to actually build ork kits according to instructions. I'd still want the new bits though.

Here you go mate, might help with some other ideas.

Honestly, just use the ones from the genestealer cults. They're really good.

How's it look? Had these for a while now, just got around to painting one by one. Needs cleanup, but i think it's one of my best so far.

ok thats pretty cool.

Rainbow Warriors from OG founding.

Another conversion I've saved from my broken stuff. How I never had a proper go of painting this before I don't know.

6th guard of my army

Howling Griffons Incoming.

I'm doing olive drab armor

Which shade should i use
Athonian camoshade
Agrax eathshade
Nuln oil

Iron Knights.

Camoshade might not be dark enough, I'd probably go with earthshade.

Nuln Oil should be reserved for metals and blacks, and maybe occasionally browns.

Daemon Prince I did a while ago, she's been my MVP in 8e since she can hide in a pack of furies. She's become one of my centerpieces.

beautiful user

looks like your brush got a little dry when you were doing those delicate highlights towards the end

but overall looks really good and neat

niiiiice
lewd daemon for the lewd god

alright thanks, i'll go with camoshade since i think i'll want to keep the colour a bit cleaner looking.

Lamentors

Thanks lad

You can also make a nifty las-smg by adding a stock to the back of a laspistol.

>mfw my daemon prince (not really) is almost done
>just need to wait for the fucking package with bits
>and perhaps finally make the fucking edge
Fuck you for not being as lazy as me

Celebrants.

Raven Guard

Seconding. Celebrants are awesome

Strange question, but would the head of a Saurus warrior (or other Seraphon really) fit onto the front of the Tech-Priest Dominus pope head? I'm thinking about making pic related as an HQ for my AdMech.

Trying to make the poses of my Dreadnoughts a little less static. How'd I do? Poses aren't 100% exact (the blu tack isn't holding them up/together too well) but the basic ideas get along I think.
Top one is going to be a standard run of the mill Dreadnought and the bottom one is going to be Death Company.

Fucking GW. Why can't you just make all the dreadnought bits compatible with one another? I know why they'd hate bit swapping, but this is just stupid. Most of the bitz have *slight* differences that make them not fit on any other kit purely to prevent swapping so it seems. What little is swappable without conversion work barely fits on anyway.
Crafty cunts.

>making the lance the focal point of the model
nigga you dun goofed

The bottom one is still static.

The top one is good, the turn in the hip is dynamic, not sure how I feel about the lean to the right due to height change, and definitely think the left leg is too far out, if it's possible you might want to move the left leg inwards a bit.

No, get the old Saurus head instead. Smaller, fits better, matches image more anyway.

Blood Angels

Ultramarines

Space Sharks

How would I paint metal like this? I've been thinking about redoing my dark eldar and painting them synthwave inspired. Trying to get some metals like in payday 2. Any ideas on how to paint them for that matter owuld be helpful too, just trying to brainstorm right now

So I am getting ready for my test Primaris Lamenter. Got Army Painter White Primer and noticed it stuck to the mini chalk like, is this normal? Also this is my first time painting an army yellow.

Is there a better shade for yellow other than Casandora Yellow? Want something for better contrast so I was thinking of either Seraphim or Agrax.

Anyone here a very good sculptor? I am interested in getting something commissioned.

In other news, I've been working on my omegon/alpharius model built off of guilliman. I have been carving out his armor and it has been a chore. I'll fix any imperfections later with magicsculpt.

I'm good enough and confident enough at sculpting to give him a sweet spawn cape, but I'm not confident putting scales on said cape. I'm also toying around with giving him the signature spear, but I'm doubting my ability to come up with one/find one impressive enough for the model.

Most forward piece was what I was in the middle of cleaning when I took the pic.

Agrax, but don't just slop it everywhere. Nuln Oil if you want the cell-shaded look.

use actual pearlescent paints, like what gets used on car models

the stuff is super toxic though and a bear to work with

Does anyone happen to have an image of the way various shades work on a model?

Like, what's the difference between Drakenhof Nightshade, Agrax Earthshade, Nuln Oil, etc.

Anyone have experience with this?

The color. Drakenhof is blue, Agrax is dark brown, Nuln is black.

They work the same way and bring different shades, but are useful for different things. I dunno too much but,
Nuln: Detail pop, greasing, great with metallics and leadbelcher
Agrax: Dirtying
Drakenhof+seraphim+druchii: muzzle burn

Reposting from last thread with a new question: has anyone tried putting a heavy bolter with the Primarus Marines?

Forgot pic

Lisa Frank would be proud

Not enough unicorns and trapper keepers.

Yes, I'd recommend it highly. I haven't experimented too much with it yet, but it's worked well in most places I've tried it (& I think the failures are mostly down to user error).

On the subject of washes
Do any washes or glazes go well or do anything on top of black?

I've seen people nuln over black but I dunno why

Sons of Medusa

bright orks are the best orks

thanks user, didn't know that's what they were called

XD

just google oyumaru

Storm Lords inc.

Hey that's me :D

this shit is amazing, I prefer using it to make bases, extra guns, and other cool bits
also when you're using it, put the molds in the freezer, whatever you've made with the molds will pop right out (will take quite a number of hours)

Just finished my lord of contagion. First time edge highlighting. Any pointers?

Legs look especially good to me.

Not bad. Try to focus the highlight, make it more intense towards the corners and the higher points.

That's when making the new part out of GS/whatever, right? Not when making the mold?

I just used nuln oil over black, and yes it feels like it gave it a bit more texture

My Raven Guard Lieutenant with some of his mans.

The pamphlet that came with DI just showed that their helmets were black so I did the white veteran arms plus a company marking to distinguish him.

I'll do squad markings eventually.

I would have made his mouthplate or entire helmet white as well, looks better and should be more accurate, but it's your choice.

I feel their lenses aren't exciting enough.
Also, mold lines.

There's a little section in the Primaris mini book that gives painting tips and shows how most first founding chapters mark their Lieutenant helmets and the Ravens just leave it black with the skull. No stripe or anything, so I tried to make them stand more than just have solid black armor.

Yeah I realized I was kinda lazy with some mold lines after priming, especially the heads.

What could I add to the lenses? I've been experimenting with doing more than just leaving them solid red for a little bit

Thanks to the anons who helped with removing paint from a model, the wilko paint and varnish remover worked wonders, only issue now is it's looks too cool to repaint, looks like a statue

Here's the roll Table I made. It has a roughly logical order, with Chapters I flet could be associated with the 1st Founding ones when there just wasn't enough proper ones to fill in the blanks.

If you find any big problems (apart from the pictures being cropped on top, seems like that happened when converting from word to jpg, will look into it), please do tell. Even if it's a name that isn't in the right place or a number that isn't in the top right corner.

Better version.

>tfw 90-00 has all of my favorite chapters

First models painted after a long haitus. Last box I bought was the battle for black reach.

Any critiques welcome, finding the citadel paints very clumpy and sticky, really hard to get nice clean lines for the highlights. Even after thinning and flow enhancer.

For simple red lenses:
>red base
>nuln wash
>red again, leaving nuln in the recesses
>orange in the middle
>brighter orange towards the front/center
And a short step further if you wanna make them glow:
>subtle red glaze under the lenses - maybe 2 layers
Used that for my Fallen. Quite literally the least amount of work for a decent result.

I think I might have some issues with the undercoat