WIP - Work In Progress General

Is this a DA dude? If the sword is too long, just replace the whole sword.

The sword blade is perfect for how I imagined it, and the pommel and handle are also perfect, it's just a bit long for my taste.

What red did you use for the armor?
Looks good btw, always great to see other WB players

Finally done. Thanks for all the advice and criticism I received for this guy with the updates I posted of him in the past, I'm happy with how he turned out.

Hey folks just a quick WiP on some Blood Ravens I've been working on. Thoughts appreciated.

Mold lines son, get rid of them. Especially the one oh his bolter, since it's not painted yet.

>new here, can someone explain this red bloke meme to me

In 1988, when Citadel Miniatures advertised the second round of metal Space Marines for Warhammer 40,000, they named them after the cast of the 1960's Batman TV serial. There was a Brother (Adam) West, Brother (Burt) Ward, Brother (Burgess) Meredith, etc. One marine, Brother (Yvonne) Craig, is reloading his bolt gun. He's holding the fresh magazine up next to his helmet, as if he were talking to it. There's a Russ Nicholson illustration in White Dwarf 105 based on this model, although Nicholson portrayed him as bearing a scanner instead.

Around 1990, when Citadel published their four-part catalogue, they dropped the silly names, and the marines got part numbers and more descriptive, practical names ("Bolter #2", "Plasma Gun #1", etc.). Brother Craig was nowhere to be found, however. You were lucky, then, if you picked one up in a blister, as he doesn't have a (published) part number like everybody else. The model is now fairly difficult to find.

A couple of years ago, when I posted a picture of Brother Craig here on /WIP/, some clever user grabbed it, and, borrowing from the Cartoon Network show Ed, Edd, 'n' Eddy, portrayed him as having a conversation with his magazine the same way Johnny does with Plank, his best-friend-who-is-only-a-face-drawn-on-a-board. Since then, several other painters who came across this model painted him up. Occasionally, when I have the opportunity to start a /WIP/ thread, I'll post a collage of them at the top; there are currently nine Johnnies in it, including two Blood Angels, an Ultramarine, a Mantis Warrior, a Dark Angel, and even an Auric Patrician!

The white citadel primer was fucked up and I end up with a model looking like covered with snow. How do I remove paint cheaply and/or quickly without damaging the model? Never have to do it before

Hey lads, new to the hobby and am probably going to buy and paint the Tau Start Collecting! box.
I am looking for brushes on the principle of "buy once cry once", so I'm thinking of just getting sable brushes.
So far I'm thinking a #1,2, and 3 should be fine, but some kits include more (i.e. Da Vinci 5359 has #0,1,2,3,4, and 6 for less than Winsor & Newton does for just a #0,1,2, and 3).
Would a combination of brushes like that solve most of my paintting needs aside from dry brushing?
Any (you)'s greatly appreciated

Thanks for the rundown.
If I wanted to get my hands on one, where would I go about it? eBay? Recasters?

Started on this looted dark eldar skimmer. Im gonna play it as an ork trukk.

Anyone got some ides of what i should strap to it?

>How do I remove paint cheaply and/or quickly without damaging the model? Never have to do it before

Can I guess your model is plastic? If you're in the US, most people will recommend soaking in concentrated Simple Green or non-actone nail polish remover, followed by vigourous scrubbing with an old toothbrush.

If you're in the UK, I hear brown Dettol works well, but there's one user here who achieved remarkable results on some old First Edition plastic scouts with Wilko's paint and varnish remover.

Recipe: basecoat of khorne red, thin layer of mephiston red letting khorne red still showing in the darkest places, wash with nuln oil, layer with mephiston red, then highlight with evil suns scarlett. A shame the pics don't show all that work in the red

>If I wanted to get my hands on one, where would I go about it? eBay?

Sometimes you'll see one on eBay. Any time I spot one, regardless of how ridiculous the price (some sellers realize what they have), I'll post it here. Haven't seen one in several weeks, though.

If you're a member of any 40K trading forums or Facebook groups - especially those that traffic in "Oldhammer" models from the late 80's and early 90's - I almost think that'd be a better shot.

>Recasters?

I can't believe there'd really be a market for that, and you probably don't want any of the ones I've made unless you're really psyched about filling in bubbles with green stuff.

Reposting Stormboyz. Bases to be finished.

More pics coming up

60mm bases make good crows nests

yellow blue red and green? man, these are kind of all over the place.

Does this Contemptor pose look OK? Chains were an absolute arse to attach solidly.

They look good. I'd do something with the base space around the resin part though.

>AWAKEN MY MASTERS playing in background

Honour guard Primaris progress.

I just have some more decals/freehands, black highlighting, and cleanup to do.

what do you guys think?

Hey /WIP/, I'm working on a Necromorph themed GSC army. I want to add in some Nid beasties, but I'm having trouble thinking of easy conversions. Anyone know of any Fantasy/LOTR minis that are good size matches for things like Carnifexes, Hierodules, and other bigger Nids?

just a few more and i have finally painted every nid i own since 2012, the feeling of owning fully painted force is manifesting itself in form of many many beers.

that looks awesome
>make way i got this
or
>let me handle these guys
or maybe
>lets see how far i can kick this snotling

Awesome

Suits World Eaters really well.

if it was another chapter it might look a bit silly, but you nailed it. I can hear the collision noise.

H-o-ly fuck. Those are awesome

the only thing i can think of is the possible use of small masking tape to get the checkering on that black and yellow chessboard bit a bit more even, but they look fantastic regardless

that's why I traded my Nids against Tau. just way too much shit to paint...

I'll probably be dialing back the red as I add more boyz, it just felt like a good choice to have on the rokkit packs and I also wanted to try having red on their sluggas. I'll probably stop doing red on the sluggas so much. Most of the army doesn't have red at all, the only other unit that has a lot of red instead of a spot here and there are my Tankbustaz, for similar reasons as the Stormboyz.

Thanks.

that's pretty fucking amazing

I'm mostly looking for things like Giant, Ogres, and trolls. Any Ogres near Carnifex size? How big are Fantasy Giants? Is it feasible to use for a Scythed Hierodule?

Do you guys thin your brush on primers?

Added the missing breasts to my daemonettes. The bra designs are really horrible to copy and I already went lazy.
Now I just have to give them all different hair and finish the bases.

Then get better at casting, and I will pay you.
Just make a mould in Oyumaru and cast it in Green Stuff.

Pic related would make great Aberrants imo

kek, cheers for the explanation mate - appreciated

Is it possible to get a better picture? Would like to do the same when I pick up the new starting kit for Slaanesh

I was told we'd be getting a painted Primaris Johnny today?

>Big Daddy coming through.
Make little sister cultist!
Do It NOW

LONDON
O
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D
O
N

I tried with a single one. But using black modeling mass, it's always going to be hard to see.
As I said, I ended up being lazy and didn't put in as much effort as I would have needed to make it look really good. They will be standing next to 20 diaz daemonettes anyway.
I still have some left to do this process on, but if I'd make another troop I'd probably go for dfc instead.

How should I highlight retributor gold and leadbelcher? Working on some post heresy night lords. Tried highlighting the retributor gold with a mix of ret. gold and a tad of leadbelcher but it looked like brown musturd and I wasnt impressed with how it looked.

Any ideas? Thanks!

How did you make those bases?

Is this supposed to be layed down bricks? If yes this kinda looks something like i tried to achieve but ?easier? and to do

To highlight retributor gold look for Duncan's tutorial about custodian guard.

Liberator Gold is good for highlighting Retributor, not sure about what'd do leadbelcher well though

thank you and have a good one you two.

yeah i hear you, i started with the idea of drybrushing every nid properly but as the years kept rolling by i made the troops atleast more plain with minimal skin highlights to speed up painting.it looks just as tasty on board when playing.

nope.
FINLAND
I
N
L
A
N
D

this right here

I use stormhost silver to highlight leadbelcher. Give it a try!

Yes, it is supposed to be just that.
Simply spread modeling mass out on the base and poke into it with a fitting tool. It is kind of high and I pushed the models into it a little bit. What is left is to cover the rest of the base with texture paint and maybe some small rocks.

I'd love to make pic related out of green stuff for my chaos lord. Any tips?
Also, is is too weeb?

The ravenwing black knights set has something similar to that, you could probably start there and work the rest of the way with greenstuff.

Its a dark angel. Break the sword. The Broken Sword is a staple of dark angel iconography.

>modeling mass

what kind of brand are you using, im not really versed what modeling stuff is out there since i never used anything else than greenstuff, and id imagine that would rack up quite the cost if i´d do all my bases with it

your nid selection looks a bit... Gaunt.

Very nice, even if it's hard to see.

Would love to be able to field an entire army of diaz daemonettes, a man can dream at least.

Is that a motherfucking power kabano?
Also, what are some legit good bits sellers?

Bitzbox has everything from GW sets but they can be pricey if you live outside of the uk, there are a few others you can find if you google 40k bits. Also ebay generally has bits for cheap.

>your nid selection looks a bit... Gaunt.

I see what you did there...

he heh
but really,i do have around 8000 (7th edition ) points.

show me the man who enjoys painting hordes of troops and i shall award him some sort of medal.

>nine Johnnies

Don't forget about Primaris Johnny, fresh out of the lightbox on Mars

did you actually cut away part of the helmet to make it look like johnny?

Moar angles pls

damn this looks meme good job user!

Can you post your makeshift tutorial you posted the other day?

Awesome. I wish you'd repositioned his leg for a bit of a squat though too.

Got my Chapter Master, a captain, a librarian, and four of my sternguard here.

Comments and questions, please.

Here's the rest!

Of course. Had to make a new greenstuff eye though

Gimme a second to crop an resize

Here ya go

This was my first time working with marines and sculpting anything so I thought I'd keep it simple

Thoughts on this progression? Marine, Sergeant, Officer.

I'm on the fence about the marine's faceplate.

It looks really cool.The skull faceplate looks kind of messy though.

For the miniatures I use a 1/1 mix of greenstuff and aves apoxie sculpt, which is less sticky and a bit nicer to work with. For me at least, I recommend not getting the black version.
On the bases I used aves alone, but I can't recommend it for anything complex as it is kinda crumbly.
As for the greenstuff, look for a version that has the blue and yellow parts seperated, otherwise you have to cut away the line where they are connected.
For doing that yourself, I first cut the detail away from the model, to get an even area, in which I can drill more easily. The drilling is so the little metal ball I use as basis for the breast stays in position. You could skip this step, but I find it harder to model a "believable" breast without it. Cover the ball with a little bit of modeling mass and work the form into the rest of the model. Keeping it round takes effort, I didn't always put in. I let it dry before trying to fix on the corset and bra area, to not mess up the form, but considering the weird shapes of the bras, it might have been easier to work them in directly.

Had to saw the torso off of the waist and fill in the gap created in the back with some greenstuff. Could've been better but it serves its purpose

Laid some paint thick in a few spots and the highlights on the belt could've been better but the BA symbol came out better than I expected. That's the last picture of Primaris Johnny for now

really like how positive you all are
what a lovely bunch

Thanks, I think it's the eyes being so dim, let me see if I can fix them.

If Abberants didn't suck : /

I mostly want to use Carnifexes. Any similar sized Ogres/Giants?

A little better maybe.

Get out while you still can

will someone explain the Johnny meme to a noob

Messing with a cardboard cover to hide the jarring connection between the missile pod and the rail rifle base. I'll be magnetizing it, but looking for opinions on the cover. That's just a quick mockup with some tack on it, it'll be straighter when I glue it.

This might be a better picture, showing what skullface is being compared to.

...

I suck.

>forgetting image

when people say they're "magnetising" something what does that mean? I assumed it's a painting technique?

Putting magnets in it so that you can assemble it with more than 1 loadout or even pose.

so instead of the parts being held by glue it's held by magnets?

exactly. For example on the arms of a space marine captain so you can swap his arm with energy sword with an arm equipped with power fist so you don't have to own two miniatures to have both options.

The magnets required for that are called "neodym magnet" and you can find them on ebay and of course in well sorted hobby stores. They are dirt cheap too.

oh that's awesome, thanks for the explanation

Yeah, so for Tau, let's take the crisis suits, they have a MASSIVE amount of ways you can kit them out, so people often opt to put magnets on the weapon bits and the areas on the model's arms/jetpack where they would join. Then you can just switch them out whenever to whatever you like.

I found that using vaseline lets you avoid the problem with the putty sticking to everything, very helpful if you use any amount of milliput.
On the flip side, now you have a problem with greasiness on the model, tools fingers etc.

Any link to where you purchased those metal balls?

Precisely. It pays to occasionally have a couple, and it can be really fiddly with some parts and models, but for larger stuff like tanks and large Mecha there's no reason not to do it. Pic related is my first Imperial Knight. Head still disassembled because there was a casting problem and the mounting point didn't form properly so I'm trying to figure out what to do about that, armour panels off to paint separate and all the weapons are magnetised. There's 5 variations, so I got about £375's worth of options for £75.

Not with that level of detail. I usually paint my hordes base colors, wash, drybrush, pick out a couple details move on. painted about 4000 points of boyz on commission once, and it took me two months and a good deal of my sanity.
PUNS FOR THE PUNS GOD! GROANS FOR THE GROAN THRONE!