WIP - Work In Progress General

YES. They're customer support is damn good. You're likely to get the box replaced in full.

>They're
Fucking spelling errors. I'm going to bed. I'm tired of being awake and tired in general.

You saying I could get a free carnifex out of this?

I painted all his wires with the brightest silver I've got, and I'm trying to go over them with a glaze to change their color, but still keep a metallic-ish quality to them. Kinda a pain as the glaze seeps down over the wires and doesn't really stick. Had to do multiple coats after long dry periods. Is this the correct application of glazes?
I was using them before like a wash in recesses and even tho someone here chewed me out I still think it looks good for the eye glow.

new painter, what's the best way to thin my paints? I usually end up thinning it too much and the paint just doesn't stick and the primer remains visible.

>finish taking pictures
>notice some stray paint on a lens
>halfway through painting over it realize it was just a bit of dust
>still need to paint the lens
>Fuck

Anywho, space marine. I'm trying to get faster.

2/3 HQs for my plasma-spam traitor salamanders army complete save for the Discs of Tzeentch and lava basing. Any C&C, /WIP/?

Now I just need to paint lots and lots of plasma havocs and flamers of tzeentch.

buy or make yourself a wet palette, it makes thinning retard-proof.

Kasrkin fag wrapping it up for you guys, of any of you have been fallowing me for the last few days I think this is the final result!

And I still haven't learned shit about phone posting :D

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haven't pained anything since 2007 (when I was 11) but these threads are so comfy

blown away by some of the stuff you guys paint, tempted to get back into it (not the actual game, just the models)

unfortunately I don't really have an area to do it in

pressed send too early

I spent all of yesterday watching videos of duncan painting, so fucking comfy, it was like ASMR and it seemed so simple that even I could do it

how much do you think starting materials would cost me? brushes, paints, a simple set to paint etc

Hey. I also returned to painting and stuff from a long hiatus.

I went from Warhammer to Flames of War to now Kings of War with Warhammer models.

The thing about Flames of War was that to play I needed to paint my miniatures, bacause in Germany all the FoW tournaments had mandatory painting.

I kinda recommand to do some modern historic wargaming (Bolt action for example if you like 28mm more). Why? Because you actually don't need a lot of colours.

I am right now back at 28mm painting. And I also do it more for the artistic/comf aspect. For this Kings of War is amazing. You can do multibases which means that you put all you miniatures of one base from the start. So you can do mini dianoramas. Or have different effect simply by positioning. So a mob would have no order and regular militray troops very good order.

Also if I come to game it, it is a very very solid system. Which plays fast. I usually play 2 games at a evening.

Also ebay is your friend. I completed to collect my 2500 point Highelf army for like 120 € (normal game size is like 1500 or 2000 points).

As for you question: sadly a lot. espacially when you go into fantasy/scify with its kinda brighter and more diverse colours. I have right now 86 pot of paints.

I recommand Vallejo. You get more for less money then at GW. But even with 2,36€ for a pot of paint that is like 200€ count to that paints and sprays and you are at 250€ ...

I guess 50€ would be a good starting point.

>brushes,
five bucks
>paints,
twenty bucks
>a simple set to paint etc
buy a folding table for like i dunno forty bucks

That's only like sixty five bucks.

Then you gotta buy the models though.

My 5 primaris intersessors arrived last week. My box of Deathwatch should arrive today. Hopefully there's enough extra bits for me to make a squad of Deathwatch primaris. Anyone else done this?

ayy my boy thats who Im doing next after typhus

Usually when there's a fault or a missing sprue GW will send you another box. In this case they'll probably just send another base. But maybe you'll get lucky.

Hey you got very interesting highlight-style, got any more pics of finished models?

Sadly no I took a good 2 year break and started over so typhus will be my first in a while

Eagerly awaiting results then!

My glazes don't take long to try. If you are using a glaze medium you can try adding more glaze medium and no water to improve the handing and reduce drying time.

If you ware making a glaze with very watered down paint I think you did the best with what you had.

If you are doing more models maybe consider mixing in some silver paint.

Attached is current WiP, trying to figure out color scheme (boob plate was blue+silver paint)

Will remember the tip with the silvers for future reference. Really like the color on the plate you have

Forty bucks for a table? Fuck that go to Goodwill or Craigslist and get one for a dollar.

>Pic just for attention
Seems that didn't work to well.

Anyway check the op and dl pic related.
Best resource you can find in book form.
There is also the WD archive, if you snoop around in those any issue till the mid 00s should have articles on building scenery. WD usually always had a very nice battle report or campaign going on with a new gaming table or piece of scenery for each one. This was before they started selling plastic scenery.

Started in on a Scarab Occult sorcerer

Hey lads, about to get into the hobby and don't want to buy shitty brushes; I'd rather just buy nice brushes and take care of them.
Winsor & Newton have a very decently priced set of 4 (000,00,0,1) on Ebay. Will these 4 brushes be enough, if I were also to buy a medium GW base brush for large areas of base coating?

I think a paint set would be the most expensive thing. You can follow Duncan tutorials without the GW paints if learn to mix what paints you have (small amounts of white and yellow to a base color make a nice highlight, same with a dark blue or green for shadows).

I mostly use a 0 and a 1.
I use a 2 for base coating.

what's that hole in his hand for?

Do you think you need anything smaller for fine details i.e. eyes, or anything larger i.e. vehicle base coating?
If you think a 0,1,2 is fine, I'll just get that

>those mold lines on the staff

You can do any size of details with how good the points are on s7

I own a 00 for fine detail stuff but the point on all those brushes should be the same so I could be using my larger brushes if it wasn't for the fact that the bristles have worn or become hooked. My 00 sees less use so it is good.

I don't paint vehicles bit I'm guessing you'll need 1 really big brush to save time.

If I were to buy a new set of brushes it would be a nice 00, 0, 1 and then go to an dollar store for a cheap set of brushes for base coating, terrain/basing work/drybrushing

I mainly use a size 1 normal W&N S7, not the miniature variant. As the other guy said, the points on them are so good you can basically use any size for details.

Hows your morning going wip?
Im workin on some inquisitorial henchmen, how about you?

Any ideas for Tzeentch/Thousand Son chaos spawn conversions/kitbashes? I'm feeling a tad bit creatively burnt out and demotivated, especially since the few ideas I could think of either seem as if they may be too difficult to do pull off or sounded kinda stupid after thinking about them

Alright thanks guys, I'll probably just get a the 00,0 and 1

Use a cotton ball and air brush it in blues and pinks

Make it a chaos flame spawn

Just doing a bunch of washes on some Knight armour and infantry bases, not too difficult. Spray leadbelcher then just go Nuln and Agrax a couple times for dark grimy metal.
Having to fix a couple tiny patches where newspaper stuck to the plastic after spraying, though, and as pot Leadbelcher is a bit different to rattlecan leadbelcher it's a bit of a PITA. How do you guys avoid that?

>it was like ASMR
kek I thought this exact thing too

Can I get a recommendation for a sprue cutter?
Is the Citadel one good to go, or is there something better for a similar price?
Also wondering if they Citadel files are good. Can you also use the files for mouldline removal, or is it best to just use the mouldline removing tool?

I found an old Space Marine Rino while moving the other day. It was only somewhat built so I placed an Ork on the Gunner seat and added a bunch of Ork stuff to it from other Ork things I've had.

Now I want to add Grots to it to hang off the sides and whatnot. Any suggestions for doing that? I was thinking of getting the Forgeworld ones with the tools and cutting some arms off and doing green stuff to make them hold the other model.

I've never used Green stuff before. Don't have any pictures because forgot to take some before heading out.

I've read the pdf for the green stuff. Any other advice for using it? Any advice for turning another army's model to an Ork one?

Please post looted stuff.

Paintin up one of the 3 man Reiver boxes as reinforcements for my Death Company, they're pretty neat models.

Thanks for the suggestion, user! I guess I might have been reaching too far too early with my ideas or something, but you snapped my mind right back on track and helped a ton with planning.

Tamiya modeling kit is my personal choice

I got it for building gunpla gundams and ended up using it for my warhams

>a tzeench player having trouble because of overthinking things

Life imitates art eh?

Citadel will almost always be the most expensive option.
For sprue cutters, you need fine side cutters, available in hardware stores everywhere. Get the smallest size they have. Privateer Press sidecutters are decent too. Tamiya is another excellent option.
For files, again, hardware store. Can usually get a decent set cheaply. Also pick up a fine wire brush, looks like a toothbrush, to clean the files in case they get gunked up.
You can use files for mouldline removal, but they work best on metal models. Plastic gunks up files, Resin creates hazardous dust and scars easily, resin plastics have both downsides.

Pretty happy to call this guy done for now. There's some small details like the gun scope, some missing rivets, and maybe some small hazard stripe details on the drill which I'll probably come back and do within the month but for now I need to move onto other shit.

I have this and it's seriously a great book.

Started playing Zombicide and was bored with the bare plastic so decided to do some simple paintjobs to liven them up a bit. Pretty happy with the result for the effort involved. Really digging the Army Painter "Necrotic Flesh" primer.

Picture from the back?

Looks nice at the front

Rest of the WIP retinue for Inquisitor Lord Tobias Vokes (RIP)

from Imperial Armour vol 7, Siege of Vraks part 3. Mentioned in scenario 18 - the battle for armoury 59-44 and in the description of scabiathrax

Fuck i forgot my image

also of note is that Vokes has an inquisitorial rhino that is featured in Imperial Armour vol 2, 2nd edition: war machines of the adeptus astartes

my only problem with this is that hes entirely on one half of the base

>reading siege of vraks 2nd edition, description for assault on armoury 59-44
>inquisitor is now named Elias Vokes

God bless forgeworld proofreading

Quickie filler image showing off the LED that still works after a decade while I wait for my fluro light to warm up.

The feet are moulded onto the base so I didn't get any real say on the position, but I will say he is much more central on the base than he looks in that image.

>this lardass is much easier to photograph from any angle but front on because the giant shoulders reflect light like a motherfucker

>also forgot to put my ghetto plastic bag light disperser over the light and now the pics are too bright and the colours are blown out

>What are some of the best books for building terrain?

I got two words for you, user: Nigel Stillman.

>finish taking pictures
>notice some stray paint on a lens

This is an inescapable truth of life, user, and just part of the hobby. Inevitably, when you photograph something up close, the camera will catch something you didn't see, and you'll feel a compulsion to go back and correct it.

Reposting from last thread, hoping for some advice to improve.

Get an xacto knife and give the man a hair cut. That is just atrocious and offensive.

you need to highlight the hair a tiny bit more. I get that you're going for the dirty blonde look but it doesn't really look "deep".

i think the only other thing it's missing are eyes. that will finish the model off, big time.

...

Done some highlighting. Needs more.

Any advice?

How do I fix sideways images?

stop being a fucking retarded phoneposter

I'd hit that flamer's cowling (the brass-colored bit on the end) with some nuln oil or a similar shade to crank up the contrast, but besides that I'm not sure what needs doing. If there's flaws I'm not seeing 'em.

This might be stupid and obvious but texture paints are amazing.
Never particle basing again

Any way to convert existing bases with texture paint? I have something like 50 Infantry models based with sand and the difference would be jarring. Pic related.

I also have this question seeing as the rest are all ballast based

Not everyone has a camera fuckface.

No but you presumably have a computer, right? Kill yourself.

please begone with your uncomfy vibes

>negative waves
Such a missed opportunity.

WIP is not your safe space, faggot.

I've hit it already with agrax. Would you suggest nuln on top of that as well?

Oh, gentlesir, I prostrate myself before you out of great agony for having inflamed your autism.

I hope that you will find it in your heart to spare me of your great wrath.

At least you didn't post a file that was close to the 5mb size limit, that causes world-shattering levels of autism.

How'd this come out btw in your opinions? Wasn't going for fancy just table quality.

Tabletop quality: achieved.

You know what, no. I'm betting that your camera is crap so I'm not seeing what you are. It looks good.

I have a lamp drowning that bitch in light. It's a bit darker just looking at it.

...

And it's not your platform for shitposting. He posted an image from his phone and it's rotated 90 degrees. Whoop de doo. Just turn your head.

When you find shit like this on ebay, how legit is the item? Seems a bit crazy how cheap it is, though no doubt it will rise near closing

ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Contemptor-Dreadnaught-on-sprue-Horus-Heresy-Betrayal-at-Calth-Warhammer-30k-/391847576671?hash=item5b3bef845f:g:KOMAAOSwuAVW1LqR

I'm new to miniature painting and am looking for some decent brushes to get started. Are there any that I can grab off Amazon that would be good guaranteed? Or do I have to go down to an art store to get some hand-picked individual ones?

I get the feeling my texture paint doesn't have much in the way of.

I just use the ones at Walmart and the one that came in the primaris paint set.

I can only find the cheapo thick ones at Walmart (the ones where the brush tip is wider than the head of the figure). Been considering going to Michael's or Hobby Lobby but was hoping to grab them online if possible.