/wipg/ work in progress general. Painting, modelling, converting

Nice checks. I actually like that yellow bolter for some reason but really don't like the headwound on shotgun guy. Just doesnt look convincing.

my own chapter got no name, yet. due to the high lighting in the room you cant really see the white edge highlights :(

there is a product just for that but i wouldnt go that far, pharmacy alcohol does the same for cleaning your brushes thoroughly and also removing paint from metal miniatures. buy that.

and dont buy brushes that label themselves "for watercolour" they are just for that. go to your local craft store and ask for good and cheap brushes that meet your requirements.

Looks rad, love the eye glow

I think he needs more colour, it's nice but a bit boring at the moment

I got some of my sprues mixed up, should I have checked the instructions?

I will clean up some parts and fix others (especially left hand, hair) tomorrow. Somewhat happy with the result thus far, kinda makes me wonder how much of a pain the rest will be.

i have mixed feelings of it

WiP special weapon tac marine. Got to do cleanup and final highlights.
Nearly finished my first unit. Thanks for the tips lads, I had no fucking idea what I was doing, but you guys and Dunc got me through it.

aww look at that guardsman, he thinks he's a marine

Just rub them with alcohol? I'm assuming I shouldn't do this too often since it sounds like it'll ruin the 'hair' (forgotten what its called).

Didn't even know there were different kinds of brushes, I just bought some the right size..

Which faction is this supposed to be? Pretty sure filename will become reality

Which colour did you use for the pauldron trim?

Sounds like Primaris talking about Classic Marines

Proportions are a bit wonky
Her legs and hands are gigantic

thats awesome.
im sure when some day you get your every mini painted you wont get the feeling of "i wish i painted them better, even the troops"

keep up the good work, you can only rise from the bottom up so theres something good coming by they way it looks.

Yeah it's my least favourite head as well.

I think I'll switch it out for something else later.

i took a picture for you just to demonstrate, 2nd and 6th from the left are for drybrushing for example.
i call them flat brushes ands they will turn in time to the 8th 12 13 16etc but then you will use them to paint bases and sutch for few years.

Needs some darker shades to bring out the details, other than that looks good, if a bit boring.

I am using the Deathguard models for it, but would most likely run them as random CSM guys and not Deathguards. Assuming I ever get around to actually playing the game.

That is a deliberate choice, as I like that specific style. Some things, that make it look even more off, will be fixed later on.

post drunk and get drunk results

doesn't really know what he's talking about and it shows. What would happen if you soaked your hair in iso alcohol? Would end up pretty fucked up. If you need to get the paint out of the ferrule area, use brush soap; it has conditioners in it to keep the hair supple. And don't snub your nose at watercolor brushes; look at what they're made of. Sable's for general use, badger makes for pretty good drybrushes. Horsehair shaders generally aren't too useful. I don't like synthetics, but YMMV (some do).

How did you get that white?

Ah nice, already got two of those

I paid $5 for mine and I assume they're the cheapest type of synthetics. So is it bad to use alcohol for synthetics as well? Tried shampoo like I read online and did very little for the ferrule area
Good to know for when I get better brushes tho. So sable hair is my first priority then, should I assume they're piss expensive? Like impossible to find in a normal hobby store?

im pretty sure hes fine with the alcohol solution or water as hes not going to buy expensive pro brushes anyway, maybe some day.

i clean my brushes with alcohol once in a month just to get that tiny bit out that got left in there and tempera deluxe brushes worth of 2 euros (red ones in pic) last for 3 months.

i would have ordered brush cleaning solution with new brushes but the store was out atm just to try it out.

ulthuan grey, shade has been done with administratum grey thinned down only in the recesses.
highlight with white scar

the issue is the light there, cant get it darker right now in the store

was thinking about breaeking the white up at some parts. however decals, squad markings etc are still coming so he is not done, yet.

Synthetics are plastic; the hairs would probably hold up, but the glue holding them together? No idea.
Natural hair's more expensive than synthetic, but that doesn't mean they're out of reach. You don't need Series 7 to paint! All the manufacturers make budget brushes in the $5-$10 range.

I had an old Cadian fig from when I was a little kid, used him as practice seeing as I hadn't held a brush in 15 years and didn't want to ruin my brand new marines. Fluffed as a chapter serf/homework PDF.

Balthazar Gold base, Auric Armour Gold layer, light wash of Agrax Earthshade, highlight with more Auric Armour Gold. Hated working with Auric though, it has a horrible, slimy consistency. Difficult to thin to a good consistency.

Thanks lad.

How do these boys look for my 3rd to 7th models ever painted

>Hated working with Auric though, it has a horrible, slimy consistency.
Thanks! Would you recommend doing it the same way again or should I try another layer?

looking good

how do you get a solid, clear white coat? I need one for the GK heraldry on my vehicles, but it took like 6 layers to get somewhere to a solid white color (army painter matt white). I undercoated with celestra gray.

sons of vader

Crossing up your brush direction helps, but ultimately hand painting white's a bitch.

I like the colour enough that I'd give it a chance, in case mine was a bad batch. To be fair, if you're patient it can look really nice, and the wash helps make it look nice and consistent anyway. I think you'd struggle to drybrush with it though.

Dark grey, then a light grey, then white.

Arctic Warriors
Children of Fenris
Sons of Russ

Celestial Lions, just basecoated. Next will be the bits I could not basecoat in gold and the blue shoulders/heads (where applicable).

Majestic

You guys should absolutely use retributor armor for gold. Its fanastic and has great coverage. Shade with reikland and highlight with stormhost silver or liberstot gold. Auric gold is shiiiiiiit.

Needs more seals

I think I'm done with this guy. NOT.
Any suggestions on what should I paint on his chainsword? I was thinking about a simple red line or two, but I'm open for suggestions.

and his front

>Celestial Lions
10/10 patrician chapter choice right there

Nice, I'll give it a go then. Using Corax White as undercoat tho so might need another base, idk I'm new af

Looking good!

No layer? Will try this too tho

The Kopaka crew

Most recent wip.

Just Bought this Not!-KeeperOfSecrets

Any Advice on painting Large Models like that?

Just finished scratch built mega armored big mek. Critiques welcome

loving the skintone and expression, the trousers don't quite look right to me though but I can't articulate why I feel that way.

thats totally not keeper of secrets.
to your question i would have to say have fun and enjoy.
my normie friends always get shocked when i buy expensive gw stuff but i think more along the lines "i pay 300 euro for this hierophant and i get to paint and model it maybe whole 2 weeks while enjoying every secondwhile doing it".

I'm a huge fan of those. They're really jam packed with character, you should be really pleased m8.

I kind of agree the headwound is a little stark though.

His legs are terrible
It's really distracting cause the rest of him looks pretty good

I'm the guy who used Auric. As much as it's a nice colour, it's probably worth listening to because as I mentioned, I'm also extremely new, and don't really have a clue what I'm doing. The pic I posted is literally my first unit.

The stubby legs look goofy, but it's the kind of thing nobody will ever notice looking down on it.

Also is it ridiculous? Yes.
Is it endearing? Yes.

The orange buttons/spies on his shoulder could also use a bit of detail, maybe some highlights like for the lens on the weapon. Same for the monocle.
A bit of shade is missing on the square plates of his chest/thighs?

I'm being harsh for the sake of being harsh, but frankly it looks amazing as it is.

Overall I really like what you've done.
This is going to sound really wierd but I think the checkerboarding is too neat for an ork, still really well done though.
The chipping metal effect you've got going on the armour would be nicer if you painted under the bottom of it with a brighter orange highlight to give the illusion of more depth. The yellow on the teef, skull and those round things looks like it needs another highlight too.
The right (his left) silver tube isn't completly painted and I think certain bits of metal (the claw, tubs and those rivets) are a bit bright and could probably do with a wash.
I don't like the base, unpainted sand just looks wrong to me but that's just personal preference.

In case you do try Auric, I primed with Mechanicus Standard Grey spray. Here's an additional pic of the WiP sergeant in painting alongside plasma guy, to show how it looks on chest heraldry. Apologies for reposting image in another thread.

>not putting cheesy lines like "cadia's sons" "emperor's blade" on every possible piece of combat equipment

it's like you don't event praise the emperor, user

>implying the neckbeardist thing isn't injecting your waifu fetish into established lore and rejecting common sense to get a rise out of nerds
t. triggered neckbeard

Oh, looks a bit too brassy for my taste. Works great for trim but idk if I'd run that as a 'gold' colour

Thanks tho! Will definitely try something like this

Could I get the source, pretty please?

Source!

The Keeper of Secrets if from Creature Caster (its in the picture)
They got a sick-ass Great unclean one and chaosDragons too

Still looking for advice on how to Paint Large Models, The biggest I've ever done was a Tau Broadside

It's the brightest, "most gold" that GW do as a layer paint. That said, the lighting in the photo might be a little off. I'll try to take another when I'm next at home, but I'm sure you'll be happy with either gold anyway, and adjusting the wash strength and colour will do a lot for getting the hue you want. Good luck bro.

Thanks a bunch user and sorry for being a hassle

painting faces is bloody hard

Did you paint a Black dot instead of Drilling a Barrel?

Speed painted Iron Hands Inceptor. Base is still wip

yea for now. Ofc needs proper drilling later

Looks good, I would tidy up that silver smudge under the chest aquila

Was told to thin my paint, is this looking better?

Fuck good catch, cheers pal

yea, photos are horrible for catching things you've slipped on :)

looks much smoother than on the original, still a bit thick on the left Arm.

Taking Pictures of your Minis always shows mistakes you wouldnt notice IRL tho

Thinning paint isnt as easy as people make it out to be, if you thin too much your paint flows into crevices and makes it look even worse.

The Important thing is to not overload your brush and to wipe of excess on a napkin.

Should also check out Wet Palettes
Tabletop Minions has a great how 2 Wet palette for 3$ Video on YouTube

loaaadss better

Why is there a gap in his arm, above his right elbow?

Thanks!
Yeah, gonna make a wet palette tomorrow when stores are open
That left arm is a total mistake; was gonna 'unload' some paint on the arm as I had a bit much on the brush and forgot it there to dry while I was painting some other part.. Didn't notice until I was cropping that image.
The paint is probably twice or trice as diluted as on my old model. What do you mean with wiping excess on a napkin?

Thanks!

I'm going to make a left. I'm fine with the headwound, but I dislike the shells on top of the shotgun. I think that middle band needs to be a different material holding them in place(maybe leather like the ammo pouches?) and one end needs to be the brass head with the other the shell case.

Even regular rifle ammo has a two-tone look and them being all gold/copper looks off compared to the level of detail on the rest of the model(s).

If you accidentally pick up to much paint or Water on your Brush you can brush some off on a piece of Paper (Can also do this to double-check the Paint consistency)

Did you get those early or are you just in an early timezone?
>tfw filthy pacific US
>get everything late as fuck
Only way it could get worse would be if I move to Alaska or a pacific island pretty much.

I think you should blend the base up the model a bit. An Ork in the desert should have some dust on him, or at least on the legs. It sounds silly but it just seems too clean and tidy.

I think some sand, dust, grime coming up from the bottom with some oil stains leaking down from the top would help break up the big areas of red on the armour.

This

eyes looks suprsingly good, well done user!

just one thing, light does not go like you did on that plasma. Fingertips are fine, but casing should be black.

watered down pva glue.. cmon man stop posting the same shit every thread and TRY stuff

Shaded and highlit, how do I improve my highlighting technique?
Obviously stop missing my target but still feels thicc around the edges

Will do!

I got them Tuesday, like always. Germany, if it's any help.

Almost done with this lieutenant, just waiting on the required ushabti bone for armor highlights.
He's my first crack at doing the averland sun yellow fists. I've also got some lamenters yellow glaze on the way, not sure if I should use that.
Has anyone tried the averland sunset spray?
I've got a lot more dudes to do.

Watch how Duncan does it in this vid
youtube.com/watch?v=_odi1c7ErCg&feature=youtu.be&t=4m4s
(Skip to 4:04 if link doesn't)
Thin down your paint a little and use the side of the brush on the sharp edges. After that it's just a matter of practicing

Man, the Ghostkeel is a gorgeous model, but the legs are a pain in the ass to repose.

I want to modify the gun-arm so the gun pins directly to the elbow/upper arm (so the gun itself is the forearm). Any tips on how to do this? the joint is very small.

I'm starting to paint minis regularly, and I don't want to mooch off my friend's paints anymore. Since there's a Michael's in driving distance, I was planning on picking up a set of paints to start off with. How fucked am I if I go for basic off-the-shelf general-purpose acrylic paints? Since I'm still a greenhorn, I figure that high-quality paint would be a waste of money, but I don't want to go too cheap and get something I can't really use at all.

For the record, I'm looking at a $17 pack of 12 and a $16 pack of 24. A bit over a dollar per 2 oz. bottle seems to be about right, but the color range is limited compared to the 24-pack; however, with the 24-pack being priced at 66 cents per 2 oz. bottle, I'm worried about the quality.

>tl;dr buying paints with no idea what I'm doing wat do
I didn't see anything related to this in the OP pasta; sorry if I missed something.

It won't work

Don't highlight until you've alteast Basecoated your Model also try using not the tip of the brush but the in a 90° angle to the line you're highlighing.

Just slowly do the stroking motion above the point to highlight and slowly descend the brush until you see the Paint, that ensures you dont put on too much pressure and get a fine thin line.
This works best on Sharp,edges which Marines have alot of

Also get rid of the Mouldlines on the bolter and backpack before its too late. If you are cool drill your barrel

>How fucked am I if I go for basic off-the-shelf general-purpose acrylic paints?
Depends on the quality of the paint obviously. Generally speaking they are made to be used on canvas and not on miniatures. It's thicker and the pigment may not be fine enough to thin the paint properly to use for washes or glazes.
>Since I'm still a greenhorn, I figure that high-quality paint would be a waste of money, but I don't want to go too cheap and get something I can't really use at all.
You totally can use the craft paint to paint minis. But you are better off using it for scenery.
Honestly 30 bucks is gonna get you enough paint for any colorscheme you want to do.

If price is a concern just don't buy GW. Buy Vallejo or Warpaint. They are just as good, come in 17ml instead of 12ml bottles, the bottles won't dry up and are cheaper too.
Honestly just don't buy GW and it's not that expensive.

>>averland spray
Just tried it. Not bad. Sped things up and wasnt awful to use like corax white. Just make sure you check everyone and clean up spots the spray missed, because it will.