WIP - /wipg/ Painting and Modeling Thread

Copy-pasted last thread Edition


>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo

miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Archive 1.1.0.7.6.3
youtube.com/watch?v=cSCOaowF2UI

Other urls found in this thread:

puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=529
klukvaminiatures.nethouse.ru/products/28003979
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

So I have only been Painting Heroic Scale 28mm so far, I am about to get some Larger Models in the Mai soon, about 4 times bigger as a Marine

are there any differences when it comes to painting them, like different ways to Highlight/Shade ?

Should I Airbrush them instead?

It dependes, it has large flat surfaces? then use airbrush, if not the case, stick with regular brush

Does anybody know where to get Dental Stone in Canada that ships? I want to make molds for generic things like bases but plaster of paris, and hydrocal aren't cutting it. I could use resin or metal, but I want my models to last more then a few uses. I've looked everywhere but haven't found shit.

Have you painted tanks? You're gonna see a lot more of the detail, but the process isn't that different. And with everything an airbrush is a tool you should use if available to complement your other tools and painting styles.

Anyone here had Issues with Army-Painter Spray-Primer?

Mine seems to dry out really grainy is it just a bad batch or is this common?

That's what most people on here want. It's what real primer does, it eats away at your nice smooth model and makes it look like sandpaper.

Not legal yet but it looks cool so fuck it.

What's a good source for skull helmets for converting eversor assassins?

Does Duncan's recommendation for transfers, 'ardcoat, transfer, and then Lahmian medium or more 'ardcoat work well?

Also, does this look good as a power axe to give him?

I don't know any,and I know quite a few miniature companies, I'd suggest getting a good looking skeleton and green stuffing it.

Two obviously dwarven. Otherwise it fits well size wise. The dwarf face and beard make it a little weird though.

What's the secret do doing a good recess wash? I'm finding that if I use enough to actually shade the recesses, it stains too much of the surrounding colour.

that happens to me if i'm standing too far away from the minis when I prime, you've got to be closer than if you're using say a GW spray

Yeah the too dwarven was my worry. Not sure where else to find/make a double headed axe though, other than the sanguinary guard one. How reliable are most bitz sellers?

You can always use two coats, or repaint the overwashed areas. Though the best advice I can give is use the right brush. The brush you use for normal painting is probably piss poor for that work. I use one that specifically can hold a lot of paint, and is easy to control flow with.

I did paint a few tanks (mostly with Sprays)

I dont actually own a Airbrush yet, was just checking if its a Must-have for larger Models, pretty much every painting Video except GWs uses Airbrushing for atleast some parts.

Are there some affordable & decent Airbrushes you can reccomend by any chance?

Does anyone know if standard primer (like krylon) works well on paper? I've got a whole bunch of paper hammer tanks I want painted fast.

There's a few double headed axes in the Space Wolves kits. The Thunderwolf Cavalry one isn't too wolfy.

would these work?
puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=529

Oh neat, that looks pretty perfect! Thanks dude.

Now to find a good bitz seller.

Building some scouts for SWA, I'm going to make them Crimson Fists. I'm not sure what color to paint the aquilas on their chests, from what I've seen people generally paint them gunmetal or grey. Should I go with leadbelcher or just flat grey?

Working on my first Infinity trooper. Unfortunately the primer I used went on grainy but I'm trying to make the most of it.

Apologies for sideways pic, posting from my phone.

Very WIP

strip and try to re prime.
color scheme works nicely.

I've progressed this much. Is this acceptable?

nice start!
what range/manufacturer?

...

They're Perry miniatures Mahdist, converted to be orcs for LOTR.

Building a Witch Hunters army for 40k right now and I'm really struggling to come up with ideas for acolytes. Can anyone suggest some good looks legs and torsos from which to build from? Also would Warhammer ghouls make a good base for arco-flagellants? They're the right pose but might need a lot of green stuff.

I'll be starting on a Ministorum Priest soon. I plan on mounting a sound system on his back so he can broadcast his sermons across the battlefield. Will post pics hopefully.

Genestealer Neophyte body and just pieces from all over. Fantasy Empire bits looks great, or you can go like I did and make each person coming from different background with the same uniform. Nothing says 40k like Fantasy.

Yeah, these are great. I dig it.

love these

Cheetor/10. In all seriousness, they look great.

To add to what this user said, I heavily recommend picking up a box of empire flagellants. Even you don't plan on using their bodies the kit comes with a bunch of good bits that are great for adding flavor. Pic related, my priest.

How about using the renegade apostate preachers of nurgle and the rogue psyker
greenstuff the shit out of them

Has anyone used the burning of Prospero marines to make Chaos Marines? If so I'd like to see them. Thinking of using them to make some post heresy chosen for a warband.

Please? Anyone?

if it were me I'd probably use a bit of red wash in the deeper recesses of the skin, to separate it a bit from the carapace

but it looks good dawg

Try it for yourself. That's the joy of painting. If it looks like shit you can just paint over

Celebrant chad marine

Tried some new techniques and ideas with this guy, overall happy with how he came out besides my very poor attempt at blacklining

>Chad marine starring in you came to the wrong neighborhood git

looks a little thick on the forearm and his left shoulder pad, and I can see some of the white primer showing through on/around his fingers. That's a totally mental scheme though, are you doing a whole army?

In the long run yes but I like doing these guys one at a time.

Alright boys, need some input. So yesterday was the first day in literally months that I could prime. So I rushed some half assembled models together to join the rest I had ready to prime and this here chaplain was one of those rushed models. It wasn't till late that night when I noticed this little side leg armor thing wasn't attached. Should I attach it? Or should I try and do some form of paint scarring to look like he took a hit and lost it and part of the leg?

Looks pretty damn good. The transition between the yellow and orange could be better though.

i agree it's hard due to primaris knee areas, the raised ridge made it look more like I miss painted orange at the top than a gradient. When I painted the whole kneecap orange it made his legs oddly stumpy and not in a good way

>got really drunk and high and made crazy hawaiian monk backstory celebrants
>blood angel successors was the first step since celebrants are people who run rites and rituals I got the idea that they combat the red thirst via a super regimented, ceremonial lifestyle
>doesn't fly over too well with the blood angels and the discoverer takes his followers and fucks off
>got the idea to make them hawaiian because of the colors (red and yellow are important people colors in hawaii and mai tais)
>so they discover some paradise world and settle down for their homeland over time they adopt more and more customs of the locals
>strict ritual way of life because the Kapu/taboo laws
>as "celebrants" they lead tribal life as spiritual leaders and lawmen so between war they lead prayers and marry people and perform funerals as example
>mana is extremely important to them particularly the ritualized consumption of enemies to steal their mana. They understand that high mana people resist the thirst better but don't understand why (blood)

then i passed out

My custodes i got 4 more ready but its 36 to go :,D im mad man

looks nice, clean highlights

getting my display board ready for Armies on Parade, here's the layout of what it would look like before being rubbled.
Gaze upon the majesty of my concept

Dope

Newfag here. This is my first warhammer figure, what do you think? I still have some highlighting to do for the metal and paint the base. Any advise would be helpful

Are you that guy making the Squiddly Diddly Marines?

Should I buy it? Might make him my Intercessor sergeant

klukvaminiatures.nethouse.ru/products/28003979

100% yes

Why is your army stationed in a pleasant backyard veranda?

I switched from that silver Loctite to the black one. I don't know if it's a whole lot stronger, but it looked cooler so I spent the extra $1.

Also nice chapter choice. Forgot their name but i can't imagine doing any of those two color transition chapters without an airbrush.

>cunningly luring orks into close combat to prove the superiority of mankind

oh yeah, does anyone have a good source of broken glass besides waiting for some dope to smash a window at work again?

superior retirement benefits

For a first fig, not bad, not bad at all.
The red could probably use a bit more highlighting, but other then that, looks not bad at all.
>paints that look properly thinned
Duncan-senpai smiles at you

Thanks user, I didn't forget my two thin coats either ;^)

Needs a recess wash of a third color beside yellow and green, like blue or red.

I always feel terrible critiquing a model that's better than I can do, but the tassels are a little flat.

Primaris Ancient WIP

also wounded thumb

>drybrushing marines

duncan has failed you my child.

also not a fan of the black helmet desu, gold looks good though

Oh is drybrushing them bad?

and the helmet is leadbelcher with a Nuln wash

not really, its more about taste, but duncan used to make videos about proper line highlighting and now he just says drybrush the entire marine

as long as you are consistent and not heavy handed its fine.

Ah, i cant line highlight for shit honestly, hands aren't steady enough tend to try and keep dry brushing light though

Most people think the look of drybrushing on flat surfaces looks ugly because you can see the drybrush marks due to the flatness of the surface.

You can hide it by using a blue glaze.

Hmm, guilliman blue glaze? only thing then is it would be real shiny

For Crimson Fists can I get away with using Macragge Blue or should I get something darker?

does Veeky Forums have a favorite model / models due to their performance and insane luck? I created a backstory for one of my models because for some unknown reason he always kicks ass and has a long history of victory


from right to left
>starts as a devestator marine I got from the dark vengeance set
>play a couple matches, he manages to survive all of them
>on like my 5th match he one shots 5 chaos chosen, and makes them fail a moral test forcing the other 3 to run off the board.
>play a lot more matches and he continues to survive each one, even if his squad gets wiped out he is the lone survivor
>he one shots a wounded demon price in overwatch, saveing his entire devestator squad from ruin
>decide to promote him to a tactical marine to the left of the devestator
>this fucking tactical marine survive every conflict and always achieves his objective
>some matches later he is the lone survivor of his tactical squad, he charges a chaos lord and 1v1 him in close combat and kills him with only a close combat weapon.
>decide to upgrade him to a plasma gun
>every match all my plasma dudes overheat except for him
>this goes on for like 1.5 years of him just kicking ass and takeing names, not dieing once
>give him the name Octavious, a true son of the lion
>just last week on astaramis his squad, once again, gets btfo except for him by a squad of bikes on the first round
>doesnt fail his morale check
>say fuck it, his time has finally come, atleast he will go out in a blaze
>he throws a krak grenade killing one of the bikers
>he then charges and kills another of the wounded bikers
>gets locked in combat for the next 4 turns, killing 2 more bikers with a fucking knife
>made over 15 3+ armor saves with him with only 2 re rolls.
>only 2 bikes left when he falls back, and by then my models have made it there to kill the rest of the bikes.
>upgrade him to sergeant and am now waiting for even greater deeds.

i would say its not dark enough, pic related is a hellblaster I painted, and its macragge blue, and a little darker in the pic then irl.

also thoughts on my hell blaster? sorry for shitty pic

1/2

Is gloss shade better for recess shading, or does it dry too shiny?

alright, I'll look into getting something darker then.

2/2

Does anyone own any Kolinsky sabel brushes? If so how do you like then compared to synthetic?

its gonna be shiny, thats what gloss does

typical shade is matte.

Isn't Kantor Blue the Crimson Fists blue?

Way back in early 5e I had a relatively vanilla ork nob modeled with his klaw arm raised, almost like he wast catching something.

In his first match, he had battlecannons fired at his mob, which kept scattering back into the tanks or other IG squads. This motherfucker was catching battle cannon shells and throwing them back at the enemy.

He later got shot by plasma cannons from Sentinels and threw those back too.

It was a fun match all around.

I don't know, I'm just going to buy a vallejo paint for it since it's cheaper.

unless you are a pro painter not worth.

would make a nice gift i suppose.

puppetswar heads run on the small side, just a heads up for anyone thinking about ordering from them.

I was thinking getting one in 000 for fine detail, and using synthetic for everything else. I've read they keep a point better than synthetic, but not talked to anyone who's used one

I like them because they are softer, and that softness also means they aren't as prone to bending and fraying like synthetics. They also retain moisture better.

Shit painter detected. They are always worth it unless you are so bad and such a beginner that you destroy even kolinskies, which are already more durable than regular brushes. They only cost 2 to 3 times as much as a generic non-dollar store brush, and last many years longer, and is the tool you will use 90% of the time unless you airbrush, so why the fuck wouldn't you use one.

Good but boring I'd say. Very clean but nothing about it really stands out, maybe put some stronger highlights on the sharpest edges. Also I like the plasma glow, subtle but noticeable. I never liked models where the plasma glow is really strong and covers half the gun.

You don't need a triple 0 kolinsky that's fucking pointless. Get a size 0, 1, or 2. They will all have the same tip as the 000 with the benefit of actually having bristles.

m8 ive been using the same 3 brushes for like 3 years now, unless you are a hamfisted idiot even the cheapest brushes are easy to maintain and clean, your average painter is not going to notice a difference in quality of their paintjob.

Going over with lahmian medium should take the shine away, I think

How do people who live in an apartment prime their models?
Hop outside in the parking lot? Spray inside but wear a filter mask with the window open?

i airbrush now, but when i was living in my dorm i would just go outside with rattle cans.

TGM was talking about this in a video. Said he uses an airbrush because it doesn't smell.

Ill give it a shot tomorrow, will post results also, thanks

that wont do it, that medium is just raw paint with no pigment


if you want to eliminate the gloss you need matte medium, or a matte spray, simply putting on lahmian wont solve anything

Your personal anecdotes don't mean shit, asshole. Ask anyone that used the white handled Army Painter brushes. They shed bristles from simply rinsing them out in your water cup until they become useless whereas kolinskys don't shed period.

Highlighting makes them sharper and harder looking, while dry brushing makes them look softer and smoother. Generally you highlight inorganic, and drybrush organic, but that's not a concrete rule. And as has been pointed out, glazes will help with that dusty dry brush look and still keep your colours layered.

Cover board in sticky tack, stick models to it, walk outside and spray prime. I've never had trouble.

Magnetized the roof-mounted big shoota to my grot short bus (counts -as trukk). There is also a rokkit launcha and skorcha option as well if I want to use it as a warbuggy.