WIP - /wipg/ Painting and Modeling

They're too thin. You need some greenstuff to space them out and clean up the gaps

Hmm, okay. Not impossible to do but a bit more work than I was hoping.

Thanks, user

question: I have a T-Son rubric box, can I prime the models with Imperial Primer then basecoat (two thin coats, as always) with retributor armor, like in the Duncan video?

What's the best way for me to paint/model/convert my Tyranids if I wanna go for a swamp/fungus themed Hive Fleet?

So you recommend that runny consistency for even base coat? Do I put paint that thin on my palette or in a cup?

Yeah I thin that much even for basecoats. It might mean I have to do 2 or 3 layers, and probably even more if you primed black, but because it's so thin you can slop it on and it won't dry thick and gunk up the details. Thicker paint requires you to spread it out and will dry thick in cracks.

A small plastic medicine cup or shot glass will help you to see how runny the paint is on the walls, but once you are familiar with thinning, you can just thin on a palette and you'll be able to know how thin the paint is just from how it feels when you put your brush in it. You can also tilt your palette to see how fast the paint runs.

New painters generally don't thin their paints this much, which isn't wrong, it's just that it's much riskier to have thicker paints and thinning at least this much is always better than not, except for a few rare situations.

If you really want to get a visual aid for thinning, buy an airbrush paint like Citadel Air or Vallejo Model Air/Game Air and see how thin it is. Or watch a YouTube tutorial where they teach beginners how to airbrush.

You don't HAVE to thin this much, but it helps a lot. Just remember to have patience and go the extra mile of doing multiple layers and you will have smooth paint jobs.

Not that guy but generally I shoot for milky consistency for thinning.

>Not that guy but generally I shoot for milky consistency

That's the general advice. I've seen "skim milk" thrown around too. Milk is fairly watery and runny, even whole milk and creamer. As long as you're not leaving visible solid brush marks in the paint you're good.

Current progress

Recently I realized I hate the standard space wolf colors (after doing my entire army that way) and decided on something more grimdark. I purchased my dark imperium box today and that magazine which comes with the free Chad-Marine.

What do you guys think? I've been watching alot of video's and taking critiques. Know I have a long way to go but compared to anything I've done before this I think looks leagues better

>Do Marine torsos look passable with Termi legs? Or do they just look awkward?
It's a fairly common conversion for true scale marines. People fill in the exoskeleton around the tights with GS usually.

If you google for true scale marines you may be able to find some pics.
Primaris made the whole true scale thing kind of obsolete now though.

If you do true scale and primaris in one army you will have a harder time telling them apart now.

Greys can look great, but they can also look pretty boring.
If you go with a straight grey, as in black/white without any off color tints like blue for example I'd at the very least try to do something with the shading.
It looks a bit like you got grey with a black wash, which is ok, but may look a bit boring, especially if you are looking at a whole army.
I'd maybe consider using a brown wash in the recesses for a warmer tone or a blue/purple.

With that particular miniature I think you also have a problem with the basing. There is just not enough contrast there to differentiate the miniature from the base. You either need a value or color contrast there.
So make the base darker/lighter or paint the ruins a dark green or brown (only if you don't use it on your marine) or something like that.

Aside from that it looks pretty solid. I also like the head with a somewhat reasonable haircut.

Your primer looks like it has a tad too much tooth grain.

got one of these today, what colour scheme should i try and paint it?

p.s nowhere near the skill level of the original model tho

I appreciate the tips, guys. I know you must get tired of regurgitating the same beginner tips all the time, so for you to give me those tips with no impatience at all means something to me.

I painted the bones of a skeleton. I think I went a bit too hard on the wash: he got really dark after and the drybrushing didn't lighten him up enough. Ah well, lesson learned. I think I'm a bit too eager to dip my brush back into the paint in general.

Did you paint onto the bare plastic? Is that why there's blue crap on the gun?

Does anyone have recommendations for what to practice painting on without spending a lot of money on stuff that might get ruined?

I'm a raw beginner with my heart set on a Harlequin Shadowseer as my endgame, so I have a LOT of practicing to do. I've been thinking that buying a less-expensive Warhammer plastic set and painting the sprues as well as the figures might be one way of practicing techniques on the same material, but I don't know if there might be even simpler options.

Nope, I primed w/chaos black spray. Until I took the photo I did not see any blue left, which I have already started working to cover up.

In person you really cant see it, I had to really look after I saw the picture

us-store.warlordgames.com/collections/frostgrave/products/frostgrave-barbarians

I like these guys. A lot of little parts to practice putting together, and nice detail for painting. 20 dudes for 32 bucks is pretty cheap, too.

That's pretty useless unless you are a 100% beginner and need practice painting even basic shapes, in which case you could do the same on anything plastic, or even shapes on a paper.

I recommend you to eBay the cheapest Harlequin miniature you can, then paint with that and strip it and paint it again. This gets you accustomed to the size of your army's miniatures, and gives you the proper shapes and textures to get used to. It's pointless to paint a big chunky space marine or Ork if you need to be practicing painting slender Eldar, flowing trenchcoats, golden masks, or checkered pants.

Simplest, cheapest WH figures are $10 starter kits with a few easy models in them.
$10 for 3 space marines.
games-workshop.com/en-US/Space-Marines

$10 for 3 orkz
games-workshop.com/en-US/Ork-Boyz-4-models

$10 for 5 nids
games-workshop.com/en-US/Tyranid-Termagants

Do a death guard theme since that's the hot new thing

>mfw that face

SLAANESH
L
A
A
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H

A-heh, it's not the diamonds I'm worried about-- I mean I need to learn *everything* shading and texturing related. A secondhand Harlequin is an excellent idea though, thanks.

Oh, those are nice and cheap, thanks.

that dude lookin like sigurd snake-in-eye

Chapter champion almost done, the helmet isn't as thick as it looks that's mostly leftover from the dark angels symbol I had to remove and I have to finish the cape and backpack.
maybe I'll make this guy a captain since champions are worthless but he doesn't look badass at least

You have an iron halo laying around? Slap that on him and another purity seal or two

Bunch of total newfag questions from a dude who's been out of the hobby for a decade and barely painted even when he was in.

What paints do you guys like to use?

Is using a primer always necessary?

What is the best brand of glue to use?

Good brushes for a beginner?

Woo, progress. Just need to decide his chapter now.

>What paints do you guys like to use?

GW paints are fine, but Vallejo and Army Painter are in some cases better

>Is using a primer always necessary?

I would highly recommend it yes.
>What is the best brand of glue to use?
Whatever is cheapest for superglue, I use Model Master liquid cement for plastic- cheaper than GW brand, much better bottle

>Good brushes for a beginner?
GW brushes are alright enough, that and Army Painter

Just looks like a SW covered in dust to me.

whatever works for you. go with gw, army painter, scale 75, vallejo, w/e. after a while you'll figure out which paints you like the most, they all have pros and cons. Always use a primer, it helps the paint stick properly, perfect for thinning.

Anyone have any photos of Primaris painted in Custodian colours?

haven't either

Why wouldn't you be able to?

Just out of curiosity why did you have to make your own helmet when you clearly have the warsmith model?

>What paints do you guys like to use?

Vallejo Model Air, Citadel, Army Painter. I plan on trying Vallejo Game Air, Vallejo Metal Color, and Darkstar Molten Metals. I know Scale75 and WarColours are very good but never tried them.

>Is using a primer always necessary?

Yes faggot. Do it instead of asking if you should do it. Just do it.

>What is the best brand of glue to use?

Revell, Loctite, Gorilla Super.

>Good brushes for a beginner?

Army Painter, Winsor & Newton, Citadel (if you have money to waste), Rosemary & Co. When you become better, Winsor & Newton Series 7, Da Vinci, Raphael 8404.

I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It's fucking magic, dries super fast, doesn't glue your fingers at all, very strong.

Attempting some Green Stuff and Milliput work.

Old metal termies with modern plastic claws...

>Attempting
Truer words never spoken

More savage than a snakebite boy wearing nothing but a loincloth

ook ook eek eek

...

>put all my CSM stuff away
>focus on dark eldar shit I have
>build and magnetize 1500pts
>prime a SC! Worth to finish for campaign
>dont paint them
>tfw instead build some terminators for week 2 to paint and surprise the shop

Fucking hell. I was so close. Guess it's back to midnight clad.

as scathing as it is true

Here is a picture of mine. No greenstuff just glued on torso. Dark Angel Terminator legs are newer and look better. Sorry for the shitty pic.

Anyone got a guide on how to make ghillie suits? I wanna put a little ghillie on my tau drones.

...

do you guys just experiment to see what paints you need for a certain color scheme? like what color to use if highlighting details

The proportions of the terminator legs look too broad for the normal marines. They'd look better if the hips were closer together. As it stands right now they look goofy and mismatched.

It kinda looks like they're sitting in an imaginary saddle or something. I like the concept but it doesn't seem like it pans out.

Buy some camo netting from your local hobby shop's WWII section.
Weave in some other threads, maybe yarn, glue it on there, add in some fake foliage, maybe made from tiny scraps of tissue paper, colored like your base.

Huh, didnt know they actually made mini camo netting. I'll have to check the hobby store tomorrow

You could probably achieve a similar (and poseable) effect using wire mesh.

>Does anyone have recommendations for what to practice painting on without spending a lot of money on stuff that might get ruined?

I'm in a similar situation, so I bought a few Reaper (as in the company, not the eldar unit) minis. Their regular metal minis are inexpensive, but the plastic Bones line are dirt cheap, and some of them look pretty cool.
If I had my heart on a Shadowseer, I'd probably try this guy first:

77040: Satheras, Male Warlock
reapermini.com/FigureFinder#detail/77040

Or maybe this one:
77069: Autumn Bronzeleaf
reapermini.com/FigureFinder#detail/77069

Those links are for the inexpensive (plastic) versions, they have metal versions as well.

You needed to make that helmet come to a point at the face more, the eye slit should have been more of a V shape. Oh well.

And into the folder it goes.

Serious question, wip. Why is it that everyone's metallics look grainy? Like, mine used to look like that too, and I didn't even realize it.

I see a lot of grainy-ness on the surfaces of many beginners' projects here. I haven't gotten into painting anything yet, but I was wondering how I'd avoid that look.

GW's metallics have very coarsely ground mica flakes to give them their metallic shine. This results in glittery, "grainy" look.

If you want smoother metallics, use a paint that uses finely ground aluminum flakes. Those paints look like smooth metal and not glittery metallic. Brands such as Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Metal Color, Alclad, Vallejo Liquid Gold, and GW's white lid metallics use fine aluminum flakes.

Shake your primer for at least 2 minutes.
Warm the primer can with hot water.
Use airbrush or brush on primer instead of spraypaint primer.
Don't spray in humidity above 45-65%.
Don't hold the spray can so far from the model or the paint dries in mid air and lands as a grain on the model.

Wow. Thanks.

What's the ideal distance for using a spray can? Do I just follow the directions on the can?

So I kind of wanted to do a few test models to see what I liked the best so I got a package of gauze. Gonna try a little bit of this and glue some flocking to it to see how it looks, and I'll try some camo netting and maybe mesh tomorrow.

Different brands require different distances. Army Painter for example has high can pressure, wide nozzle, and fast drying formula, so it must be sprayed very close. Generic brands of primer often tell you to hold it farther, like around 12 inches. Read the can to see.

To absolutely guarantee you didn't spray the primer too far, simply spray closer than the recommended distance on the can, because even if you do everything right, your weather may cause the paint to dry before hitting the model, especially with fast drying primers.

"But if I spray so close I'll clog the details!" This is why you need to practice very light puffs of paint, or very fast passes when spraying (which wastes a lot of paint, but guarantees only the minimum amount of primer needed hits the model).

Here is a video as proof of concept. Note I am not a huge fan of this guy, nor did I learn these tips from him. It's simply a video I found very recently that demonstrated all these tips I learned over the year in video form. Note he does lay the primer on a bit thick as you can see how shiny and wet it is, but he STILL doesn't clog any detail despite spraying very close, due to following tips like shaking and warming the can. Here is the video:

youtube.com/watch?v=nCenxgOW-fs

Have anyone tried making their own space marine minis?

Thanks a lot for this, man. You're probably gonna save me a shitload of minis.

Except I only have whatever the current GW metallics are, and I don't have that grain I keep seeing.

user trying to paint black here. How does this look?

The current GW metallics are the ones with white lids.

Looks good but those are some seriously MASSIVE globs of fucking blue-tack man.

Not too grey?

They're there, you just gotta look closely and without the light shining off it.

Any blacker and you get into "just primed it black and left it like that" territory. Compare your black armor to the black base rim, it's plenty dark enough.

I mean it looks a little grey but that's because it's a more matte finish than your primer. It looks fine. is right, any darker and it'd look like you just primed it and left it that way.

I didn't even notice. I guess that's why.

Actually, the "light" shining on it is a brighter silver highlight, which I learned back in like 4th ed from somewhere I don't remember. The bit was about how you use ovals of brighter silver in a thinned layer to highlight an area of armor. Still, I know I'm not perfect. Thanks for pointing out those areas.

Oooh, that Warlock would be good practice for the Solitaire as well. I might just buy a few of him. Thanks!

There's nothing wrong with the circled areas, just pointing out the areas where you can spot the characteristics of that brand of metallic.

I think the only way to get 100% invisibly smooth metallics is with Vallejo's alcohol based metallics.

>Miniature 000
Jesus what are you even planning on doing with that brush?

>mfw buying minis instead of regular S7
>mfw buying W&N instead of Raph 8404

smugloli.jpg

Just got into the game, picked up an Eldar and I'm going for an army entirely composed of bikes and flying vehicles. Very sleek, sexy, smooth sort of look to it. For the colour scheme I wanted a tron/miami nights theme, with a purple/pink colour scheme pictured above, with some blues, and perhaps a large yellow sun on my Farseer's bike, or the Fire Prisms.

Any other ideas on colour scheme, concepts to add? Does it sound like too much to undertake for someone new to painting?

Dark Eldar vehicles are way easier to do this concept with.

Unfortunately I've already made the investment, so I'd sooner switch concept than army. I'll keep that in mind though, especially if this doesn't work out.

Going to get at least my base coat done. I want to bang out 5 Cataphractii by Saturday. It seems like a simple task, but I have trouble with motivation

Looks good.

Small detail, and smaller detail. I have synthetic brushes that work fine for everything else.

Not a great job.
I did the same using 2e space wolves terminators and less is more. Just a tiny bit to angle out the arms, but you definitely don't want it poking though.

It won't have adhered between the metal and the plastic.
Once it's cured, pop the arms off and use your knife to cut all the excess down until it's just like a tiny armpit in the joint and not poking out, then superglue back on.

I'd post photos of mine, but I'm at work.

You must be next level, the quality of S7 tips is such that a normal size 1 is small enough for tiny detail.

Roll then.