WIP - /wipg/ Painting and Modeling

>paint brown
>paint gold
??

>moldlines

Other than that they look fokkin noice.

I'm confused by your confusion.

Finally getting into painting and have been trying some colors out on a spare sprue my friend let me have instead of ruining any of my models not knowing what I'm doing.

While the color I was trying to replicate was that Marine in the top left I put in, I think that the color of Loren Forest with Biel Tan green over it looks very nice, and might be what I end up using. What do you guys think?

I have a few questions though.
Are my paints not thin enough? It doesn't seem like my base coat really effected the end color, my layer paints over the grey primer look mostly the same as the layer paints over Waagh Flesh does. Is that like a paint thing or what?

Is there a way to make washes go on evenly? I noticed even on this small scale, it's a little hard to make the color of the wash go over completely smooth and you'll end up with a kind of marbled look from it. Which I feel would be fine on smaller models like Marines, but on larger things like Dreadnoughts and vehicles it might not come across as well.

Is there a way to get primer on better? Is it just that I'm using cheap primer, or that it was somewhat humid today (but not terrible, or hot weather, it had rained earlier today though) but my primer just feels like it's a little like dusty or grainy when it goes on the plastic.

Really annoying how this displays correctly before posting

games-workshop.com/resources/PDF/Downloads/CitadelPaintingSystem.pdf

use this chart my little niglet. It has a variety of green recipes on it.

Your paints look pretty thin nigga, using a colored under or basecoat is mostly to make it easy to get an even topcoat, unless doing glazes or the like. A darker undercoat will tend to darken the model a bit though, and show less if you happen to miss like an armpit or something with your layer paint.

Washes are tricky. Less on your brush is the key. You dont want to slop that shit all over the model, you want control. Ideally you just carefully apply it to the recessed areas. Marines are easy to wasy since their armor breaks them into parts. Wash one foot, then one lower leg, then one thigh etc. The smaller area you can wash complete the more fucking uniform the shit fucking looks nigga.

Thoughts?

First army I have painted yet, don't hurt me
They aren't done yet, but soonish

Can anyone recommend paints for the little jags in the kasirkin scheme? Ive tired afew oranges and reds but it doesnt look right.

Pic unrelated.

Troll slayer orange by Citadel might work, but I can't say for sure

lol your palette looks like you smeared poop on it

mold lines on the backpack and red thing on his waist.
Paint looks a bit thick and splodgy it's especially noticiable on the shins.
Lots of areas where the paint is "out of the lines" but nothing a little touching up won't fix.
The highlights on the tabbard need to be smoother, needs more water/medium in the mix next time.

Is that a Red Scorpion?
Looks good, I like the shading on the black and how the blue purity seals look.

The old Citadel Vermin Brown. The modern equivalent is Skrag Brown, but I can't comment on how close the two are in colour.

So, in regards to recast resin modeling, from a total outsider's perspective, what will I need? I've looked at the Forge World guide to normal modeling and this is what I've come up with. I've got a few questions about some of these items.

Hobby knife (Do they mean an x-acto knife type blade?)
Clippers (Are there alternatives to Geedubs Good Goy Brand Clippers tm?)
Super glue (Again, will any old super glue work, or do I have to hand my shekels over to GW for some super Jew?)
Drill/pin vise
Files
Sandpaper
Saw (Are these just for removing large gates?)
Dremel
Mask for dust
Liquid green stuff

Is my list of stuff good? What brands should I get?

Prototyping a servitor thing

noice

Another dude for my slow growing guard army. Still needs a lil cleanup.

yes, buy replacement blades for an xacto online cheap as fuck

amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=pd_sim_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000IBOOWQ&pd_rd_r=Y1P9CKDW11Q4Q7H7WN3V&pd_rd_w=8qoO7&pd_rd_wg=NQ2jR&psc=1&refRID=Y1P9CKDW11Q4Q7H7WN3V

these are fucking money

get some regualr kneadite (greenstuff) putty and youre good to go nigga

looking great, as always.
I really enjoy the stuff you've posted for these guys

Are those anvil industry legs?

Too late for mold lines, also I'm never painting white again

>I'm never painting white again
I know that feel bro.
Got an apothecary sat on my desk ready for painting too but white is awful to work with and i'm putting it off by doing literally anything else.

Thanks, my man.

Well these are just perfect for my swamp bases, nice to see procrastinating that army paid off

I really appreciate that! Hoping to have something worth showing on a tank soon to break up the infantry monotony.

Victoria Miniatures.

also scrub the everloving fuck out of that shit with dish soap and an old toothbrush nigga

Three more river trolls for the crew

Blue trolls fo lyfe
Green trolls are bitch niggas

Just wait until their mom hears what you said

>smeared poop on it
>Death Guard

So it isn't dusty?

so it isnt oily. the release agents are stubborn as fuck

Not having any experience with the two kits, anyone know how viable it would be to mix and match pieces of Valkya the Bloody and a Chaos Lord?

I want to make a lady-boy for my mutated Slaanesh Lord.

Thanks again, user.

Working on my Iron Hands intercessors.

looking crisp so far, don't like the straight white on the gun, you should go with an off white or very light grey and highlight with white.

Some work on Sons of Orar captain.

I have never used Vallejo before, but was thinking of switching to them from citadel. I have one question, though: Are their metallics (gold, gunmetal grey, brass, etc.) shiny like citadel paints, or are they flatter?

Holy fuck that is smooth

I'm glad I was actually able to pull it off. Took me hours of just doing thin as fuck layers on the legs alone.

That's the way to do it, tedious, but looks amazing. Keep at it.

What are some good proxies for Keepers of Secrets? I'm going to grab the FW and Raging Heroes ones, but I want to know what other good options are out there.

This might work with some conversion
creaturecaster.com/products/spiderdemon

That looks really cool. Thanks

Post your familiars, small servitors, etc.
I want to see cute tiny things from the grimdark future.

>cute tiny things from the grimdark future
Epic threads over that way m8

Silly user, that's not what I mean at all. Read the rest of the post.

you came here from the /40kg thread didn't you

The Treelord has cute little sprites and a teeny owl.

working on a comission for this statue of soldier 76. any tips on painting large models?

not a great picture but the only one i have handy

what are these from?

new basing kits coming out from citadel

new vines from GW, supposedly bendy and shapeable

don't forget the fucking HUGE amount of skulls from pretty much every race

use a big brush? I can't imagine it would be much different than painting smaller models. Easier probably, but you have to be a little more careful with highlighting because it might be harder to make it more natural.

Fuckin rad

If you're going to add anything I love seeing a large "train" on these floating type characters.

Reposting from last night. Did up the Dark imperium death guard, now wildly annoyed that it only comes with a single plasma gun after a game today. Also super quick alpha legion color test on the side. I'm debating turning the white armor of my army to Alpha Legion colors, but most likely not. Maybe rubric marines later in the color. I like the green-blue hue style.

Yeah, here's a tip for you: don't accept commissions for jobs that you need to ask for advice on.

>MFW i've had my plague marines since the set came out and still haven't primed them
yeah boiiii

Hate to sound like a dick, but I wouldn't be taking money if I wasn't completely confident I could tackle the project. Obviously we learn on every piece we do but still.

I'm not familiar with the medium but I've seen people use oils on larger busts a lot. I've heard it's easier to blend over large surfaces.

i actually kind of wish these were weathered more. they look fine tho.

>mfw I have 6 year old models still in the box

i still haven't decided on a colour scheme. I'm hoping i can find something I can prime white so I can use one primer for my poxwalkers and marines, because i'm a poor student.

try to basecoat it and work from there? its like any other model in a way. Kinda like painting vehicles, where blending is harder, as are highlighting, but its not a huge deal. but you should have probably practiced before accepting a commission. You can look on putty and paint to see examples of bigger models to get some inspiration. busts are also a lot easier with an airbrush.

Reaper's Bones line has a lot of familiars to pick from, and for cheap.

I was inspired by that one user who posted the easy build primaris dancing

are there conversions for the Taurox that has a full length track? I don't want those things that come with it by default or wheels

...

Made my Malefic Lord a friend.

Yeah how clean they look is a bot at odds with normal Ork aesthetics.

Also drill your barrels.

Do Tamiya Clear paints dry matte or gloss?

What are these lads?

Literally the first thing I've ever tried painting. Thought they'd turn out way worse.

Yes, I should probably thin my paints more than I did.

Psykers I made out of spare bits, the painted one is a Renegaes and Heretics Malefic Lord, the bigger one is a Chaos Space Marine Sorcerer.

I play Iron Warriors and Daemons of Slaanesh, so my magic wielding models are supposed to bridge the gap between the two color schemes.

Pic Related.

>Lizardmen
>On circle bases

Not a bad paintjob for first models. The light blue seems a little flat imo

WIP two squads of Red Scorpion Termies.
I realized i could cheat and give them a heavy/dirty wash of nuln oil and then go over it with a very heavy drybrushing of dawnstone to get rid of the unevenness of the wash

I gotta do details and weapons now and then they should be tabletop ready

Nice

Thx m80s, I intend to put some more more trailing tube things

Long time flashback. Last December an user was working on (pic) or similar but was Christmas themed like the Fruitcake golem WOTC dropped: golden bell, holly, brown with candied fruit chunks, etc.

Did user finish and submit the xmas variant? Saw this in a recent thread and it jogged my memory.

Fantasy's used circles for the past two years m8

Base colors for the grav-rhino are halfway done. Turns out that sprained index and middle fingers slow down the paint process considerably *and* make it agonizing...

Does anyone here have any experience with custom transfer sheets?

I've looked into myself, but does anyone have any paper brand recommendations? I hear there's the waterslide paper which is what we're used to with GW products, but there's another type that require spray sealant

All the greats have to suffer for their art user.

Inkjet decals need sealing but laser printed ones don't.

Here's a useful guide.
youtube.com/watch?v=yvBilhOALZg

Night Lords user here again. The colors in the picture are kind of fucked because the red doesn't show right in the lenses and on the aspiring champion's chest, which I painted red to mimic the NL symbol since there was already a skull there. It felt fitting. Next are the bases, Bf then I'll get to work on the arms and finally the plasma gun. I'm putting those off because I don't feel like cleaning my combi-plasma since they're resin, and there's a slight possibility that my axe upgrades will be, though very unlikely. Still, I might keep the claws since they're a point cheaper as of the Codex, but we'll see.

>painting white

Celestra Grey -> Ulthuan Grey

youre welcome nub

My first ever FW model, Asterion Moloc & Ivanus Enkomi has arrived.

How do I work on them? They're a lot softer than GW models I've handled and there's a lot of clean up work to do.

Plastic glue or super glue? Wash before prime? How well does it handle stripping?

Started building my Redemptor yesterday.
Quite advanced kit, very impressive. More posability than the Forge World contemptor and Leviathan kits, which is really saying something.