/WIP/ - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are en route
youtube.com/watch?v=UID6LEzvRRo

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=e2G9CEdURNQ
youtube.com/watch?v=N8SWqndcghQ
piratemonkeypainting.wordpress.com/2017/03/18/pirate-monkey-brushwork-loaded-brush/
youtube.com/watch?v=70A3_bHGMGc
youtube.com/watch?v=6dq7sLhTwko
beastsofwar.com/tre-games/28mm-airship-deimos/
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Decided to trump color theory with canon on the agonizer. Where to go from here? Should the black get highlights? I'm thinking yes

Two down 3 to go.

Nice choice for the whip. And yes highlight those blacks but don't go with grays, too boring. With all those colours you have going on I am almost tempted to say try to give it a blue or violet highlights.

Trying for a blackened look on the sword, need to add more nuln gloss

I think it maybe needs a highlight on the very tip and edges of the blade, black is a cool choice for the sword though.
immense respect for anyone who tries to paint Lamenters, they're looking nice.
I really like that, I think dark blue/teal would be the way to go with highlighting the black

I have begun the significant undertaking of stripping 3000pts of 6 year old, crudely dry-brushed and washed orks and repainting them using highlighting instead.
I started with this mighty warrior.
Black generally looks a lot better highlighted, I'd say go for it.

So I'm curious do we know what kind of base size mortarion and typhus will be getting

Does it really matter if my typhus still has the old base he was one

Was thinking of trying to make a more Tzeentch themed heldrake, any ideas on how to do that well? I was thinking either simply greenstuffing warpflame on the back of wings and such, or maybe somehow incorporating parts of the phoenix from AoS but I'm not quite sure what to try yet.
Really depends on their size, but I'm guessing Typhus will probably remain a similar size and Mortarion will probably be about as big as Magnus.

Leave chaos to me

If youre rich or happen to have the old sprues.
Use parts from the TombKing Necrospynx.

The Phoenix Wings are too small and even though Fire-Bird screams Tzeentch its more a Slaaneshi Iconography because of the ECs

Alright, thanks for the advice user.

Which do you paint first: trim or main armor? I've seen Duncan do it both ways.

Main armor personally, then trim and all the small decals. Doing main armor first allows me to paint my layers more confidently and cover a bigger space while not worrying about the small shit seeing as that comes last.

first thing I do is basecoat everything so I can get a general feel of how the model is going to look. I normally take pictures beforehand and use photoshop to color in areas anyways, but this is just to be sure I have the right scheme going on. Then I do the main parts. Normally its going to be armor. After that I can do the little details at my own pace.

Anyone see any good conversions for pic related? I have one but I'm not particularly big on him.

Cut him off the rock and have him jumping off the front of a tank.

WIP Forgeworld Commissar who will accompany my platoon command squad. I'm laying down the base colors right now. Big changes in the next step: the red is going to be brighter, and the epaulets and tassels on his sash are going to be yellow. Also lots of gray highlights on the overcoat.
This figure is so detailed!

Use green stuff to cover up his goofy-as-hell skull mustache.

STRONGLY AGREE

Remove the jump pack, helmet, and rock, then get your hands on a Canoness Veridyan and recreate this.

On big stuff like Knights or vehicles where the base coat areas are really easily accessible, I do the trim first because there's rather less chance of fucking up a little when negotiating corners, and with infantry and such I normally base first since then I can edge highlight and/or drybrush the smaller details since they're small enough for it.

I know he's pretty much the public face of GW and he has to be that way, but I love how cool Duncan is with fans.

Tamiya among others make a Metallic Black paint.

Don't have any good tank on hand.

Tempting.

>made zero progress in the past 3 weeks cause of no ac in my workshop
>house is too cramped with roommates to paint with ac.
I'm moving next week so I hope to get SOMETHING done next week

Whats your preferred method for checks? Pencil it out and fill in the deets?

I saw Duncan at Warhammer World in Nottingham yesterday. I told him how cool it was to meet him in person, but I didn’t want to be a douche and bother him and ask him for tips of the day or anything.

He said, “Oh, like you’re doing now?”

I was taken aback, and all I could say was “Huh?” but he kept cutting me off and going “huh? huh? huh?” and closing his hand shut in front of my face. I walked away and continued with my Forge World shopping, and I heard him chuckle as I walked off. When I came to pay for my stuff up front I saw him trying to walk out the doors with like two thin coats of paint on his model without washing it.

The girl at the counter was very nice about it and professional, and was like “Sir, you need to wash that first.” At first he kept pretending to be tired and not hear her, but eventually turned back around and brought them to the paint table.

When she took one of the models and started washing it multiple times, he stopped her and told her to wash them each individually “to prevent any thick pooling of wash,” and then turned around and winked at me. I don’t even think that’s a thing. After she washed each model and put them aside for an hour to dry, and started to talk about the next step in the process, he kept interrupting her by drybrushing really loudly.

That copypasta is old as shit, user.

Posted this without reading the whole comment. Well done, user.

>Anno Domini Two Thousand and Sixteen
>Posting the Ryan Gosling copypasta
I love you user. And that's not the sleep deprivation talking.

What's /wip/'s overall opinion on using dry pigments?
I never really see anyone talk about them but from what I've seen they look pretty useful.

>2016

Drill that barrel, son.

I am thinking of making a tutorial on how to make Lamenters symbol free hand. For the checkers however just follow pic related

I'm at my wits fucking end for trying to learn to blend/feather/glaze/whatever the FUCK it is called where your color transitions don't look like ass. Liquitex matte medium doesn't do much but thin it half-assedly, Vallejo airbrush thinner is nice to actually thin paints, but not dillute the color to do the thin layers, water isn't doing it for me because these bubbles form under the paint and when I'm applying the next layer it rips the bubbles and leaves depressions in the paint job. I just don't know what to do anymore...

Is the flag too much? I kind of like the idea of my gunline having a flag planted smack in the middle of it, but it might make this mini too busy.

I think it looks good, nothing wrong with a boss having a flag. Greenstuff is a bit rough but I assume you'll be smoothing it down later?

Yeah, the skirt needs some work. The shoulder I'm not so worried about, the Fire Warrior pauldron will cover all the ugliness unless you're looking really hard.

>Is the flag too much?

What?

I use planted flags all the time, looks badass and the idea that a standard bearer would hold their flag/icon mid-melee is silly.

>mfw trying out a Windsor & Newton 000 for the first time.
I can tell i'm not going to use this brush a lot but when I do i'm going to enjoy it

...

This video is pretty slow but does a good job explaining and demonstrating the basics

youtube.com/watch?v=e2G9CEdURNQ

Look, its me! The blood angel guy, again!~

I've got plenty of time. Building some Reavers. Thanks.

>It's 2017
>Seems like Easter of 2016 was a month ago
God I hate getting old.

Why does the skull helmet have a little John Waters moustache?

Planning on learning how to airbrush, what is /wip/'s take on the Iwata Revolution BR? Seems recommended by airbrushes.com for minis.

No I will not read you're post, NEVER!

Asked my friend about conversion ideas and he said to make an Astorath (a model I don't own nor plan to) proxy so I'm doing that. He's gonna join in as High Chaplain Carnarvon in my Flesh Tearers when he's done.

How's he looking?
So far I've replaced his Crozius head with a Axe Encarmine head, replaced his Inferno Pistol with a Bolt Pistol, and removed some of the flame filigree from his armor. I'm tempted to remove the wing gorget to further differentiate him from the stock model (and to give the sexy skull helmet more prominence) but I'm not too sure. What do you lads think?
Any opinions?

REEEEEEEEEmove mouldlines.
But looks nice otherwise.

Anyone willing to share a copy of this? looks relevant

He's still just blutack'd together right now; I usually remove moldlines after the final assembly is completed.

So, /wip/, I come to you with a strange question.

I'm looking for a 'knightly', humanoid mech/golem/etc, that's more distinctly fantasy than scifi.

...And that's about 3-1/4"-3-3/4" tall, and isn't too pricey.

Any ideas or suggestions? I've considered the DreamForge Leviathans, but they're up there. Buying suitable model kits is considered too, but if there's something with a more traditional fantasy look, that'd be better.

Guardsmen Quest update:
It's 20X better than what I started with but I feel like Its not enough to really bfto all my chaos oriented detractors in /40kg/. One down, 73 to go. At least the fatigues are done on all of them. Just need to touch up armor and details followed by rebasing.

Give me your energy /WIP/, I'm pushing through the night!

Also just noticed the gold fingertips. Fuck me

Keep in mind you won't be able to use your Astorath conversion and Gabriel Seth at the same time due to GW's stupid new rules system where they insist on not allowing founding heroes to lead their successors.

There's an easy solution for that: Ask your opponent if he's cool with it, then play him anyway. Of course this might not work in a tournament, only for friendly games.

This is what the final model will theoretically look like, by the way.

Just pretend she's holding a pulse rifle instead of a carbine. With a markerlight.

Trying to learn the Loaded Brush technique, anyone got decent video tutorial? I can't find the Ben Komets one.

youtube.com/watch?v=N8SWqndcghQ
piratemonkeypainting.wordpress.com/2017/03/18/pirate-monkey-brushwork-loaded-brush/
youtube.com/watch?v=70A3_bHGMGc
youtube.com/watch?v=6dq7sLhTwko

>I'm pickle whip!

I watched that first one and it's the definition of pic related.

Here's the Based Komets one, my dude
youtube.com/watch?v=e2G9CEdURNQ

Also, rather than posting twice, here's a nearly-finished Death Company marine. The lighting has completely killed the Leadbelcher base coat on the chipping/scratches. The camera only picked up the Runefang Steel highlight, so if the scratches look a little disjointed from the Fenris Grey highlight and Abaddon Black shadow line for the chips and scratches, that's why.

You like?

WHAT THE FRAK did GW just discontinue the basic Harlequin Troupe?!? It doesn't say "Temporarily out of stock online" it says "No longer available online"!

Using a Badger Patriot 105 and the Badger primer (stylenrez or whatever), what PSI should I be running at? I had it set to 18 but that didn't seem sufficient.

After the primer, what PSI should I be running at for Vallejo air paint?

Also, what are the dangers of using these products (+ Iwata airbrush cleaner) in a room with no window open? The primers/paints are acrylic so I can't imagine they'd be bad for you in any appreciable way.

I saw that one posted above, that one is more layers than it actually is the loaded brush. Death Company dude looks great, though.

They're repacking most kits with 8th rules and adjusted base sizes if they need them. I'm still pissed the 10 man GK squad went from $50 to $60 because of it...

Now I'm confused, the main page listing all Harlequin stuff says "temporarily out of stock" for both Troupe and Solitaire, and the Solitaire has the usual temporary notice on its own page. Did someone hit the wrong button? Are they really just putting out repackages?

Did forgeworld really get rid of the DKoK grenadiers? All I can find for them is the heavy weapons teams

Mould broke.

So is that it forever or are they making a new one? Surely they must still have the master somewhere.

"Thank you for contacting us about DKK Grenadier Squad. As you've seen, we have recently removed several product from the Forge World web store that have been out of stock for some time. All of these products will need substantial work for us to be able to produce them again.

We hope to have many of these products back on sale in the future. Unfortunately we don't yet have a timescale for this work."

Understandable

RIP Lucius Drop Pod

It doesn't sell enough for them to quickly bring out the master and make a new mold. Take a look what happened to marines when the hands changed/mold gets old. They IMMEDIATELY restock it, because it fucking sells.

All the Krieg fags get their shit from China anyway.

I got some Reivers to paint /wip/, and I'm torn if I should just paint them like the rest of my salamanders, or go for more of a tiger camo scheme to reflect their infiltrating nature.

finally painting up some more of my imperial guard, using the ones that have fought in the Fate of Konor fights as motivation to finish an actual battle ready force. So I have a question. Is there a spray or something that you can put on thats like a clear hard coat? I'm kind of worried that the paint will be rubbed/scrapped off with use, and I'd rather take an extra step during the painting process than have to go over it again some time down the road.

Have a nice day.

I'd share pics, but with the potato cam quality that is my phone, I don't even like taking pictures of a blank wall.

If you've got that many of them to do best to stick with an easy to achieve scheme and not fuss too hard about gold fingertips

I'm sorry for your learning disability user.
Apart from thick-ish accent, the tutorial was very clear. What part did you not understand?

You should just paint them in actual tiger-colors because of the bestial roars they use while being STEALTHY.

AAAAAAARRRRRRGGGGGGGHHHH!

You bastards. I've never noticed that before.

Easy fix. Was careful and it didnt happen again. At this point I feel like I must out of some sort of principle. Luck has it that P3 Ironcoat is VERY similar to the P3 Bastion I used to use and is actually helping shade some places by being slightly bluer.
I WILL update them. At the same time I plan. On weeding out subpar extra models, like the 9 chainswords/laspistol sgts I have, and make room in my carrier.

Got a little more closer to being done with this woot

the krieger looks awesome

Hi WIP, a while back I remember there was an user talking about building some crazy admech force led by a huge cathedral type airship... Well I saw this, so user if you are out there I think this covered in admech spires and engines would look awesome.

beastsofwar.com/tre-games/28mm-airship-deimos/

Also I have been working on some characters for my Emps children. Which I think are getting there, although I wish I had more time to paint.

aaaand I've just seen how big the mould line is on the MoS backpack... fuck.

dont you hate when you notice shit too late

Well, that thing is awesome. Would need to find spots to mount the massive pile of guns on her and probably replace/upgrade the walkways, plus remove the whole mess of the tail fins and build in some proper engines, but it would certainly look good as a flagship once you've finished meching her up.

Currently working on an Admech airship a bit smaller than my original design to be a Marauder Destroyer, but I'm still looking for some autocannon and/or lascannon bits that wouldn't look heug on the side of it.

more progress, cleaned up shit + wash on gold stuff. Should I apply a 2nd wash of agrax or will that make it too dark?

I think it's good as is. Might even be worth drybrushing on a highlight.

yeah, I'm gonna highlight it with gehenna's gold, it really makes the gold details complete.

Tried mounting it on the back instead?

Doing a Emperors CHildren Jumppack Sorcerer with him

There are a number of things. The best protection comes from acrylic satin and gloss coats, which many manufacturers make, including GW. They'll leave your model pretty shiny though, so it's a good idea to research a few dulling topcoats like mr super clear Matt or testors dullcote. They don't have enough thickness to protect well by themselves

Is sealing models actually important?

Hey guys, know a place where I can get censers and the like for my Primaris marines? I was thinking of doing "My dudes"-Black Templar like thing with more censers and less chains. I saw some nurgle miniatures have them, but it seems like a dumb thing to purchase whole death guard guys just to get a few bits for my Templar-lookalikes.

Not sure if it's quite what you're looking for but skitarii ranger backpacks have censers on them, likely easier to source than deathguard bits.