WIP - Work In Progress General

It looks odd. Hence why I didn't use them. They are not really much bigger, but they are a different shape and style which made it look odd.

You wouldn't happen to have a shot? I don't much care for the primaris backpacks, too bulbous, and been looking for alternatives.

Sorry bud, already glued them on.

There isn't a single head that closely resembles Cyrus' grizzled Fabio face. It's so uniquely outlandish on a space marine.

You can get one of the space wolf heads and slightly convert that (minor greenstuff work for longer hair) to get close.

Crikey guv'na, that's some roight noice beauts ya got there!

This conversion used a BA head.

This one.

When pinning plastic parts, what's the best glue to use?

Should I put the pin in with no glue to hold it and then just bond the plastic with styrene cement? Or use superglue on both the metal pin and the plastic bits? Or superglue on the pin and cement on the plastic and not worry about them mixing? Something else entirely?

What's the best way to fix the rotors on black reach deffkoptas? I've built a couple and had them snap the blades when they fell over (which happens a lot with flying bases). They just generally seem very fragile. Would a plasticard bracket under each blade be enough, or do I need to drill a brass rod into each one?

Some WiP on one of my tanks.

you painted her upside down user

Noob here.
How do I make black armor look good ? Theoretically, I could use some edge highlighting, but I just can't make it look right. Is there a good dry brushing technique that makes black armor look decent ? I'm painting some BA Death Company minis.

Can anyone help me out in choosing a color scheme for my Death Guard?

I was thinking heavily worn Heresy era colors but I'm also considering bronze or a mix of vomit browns and slight greens.

I'd like to paint them with washes and drybrush if that helps

Paint them a very dark grey/blue rather than straight up black, this actually allows you to get some shading in recesses.

Pin them.

dont just paint the main armor Black, but rather stick with a dark grey and a wash

Since no one was interested in helping me out I made the decision myself. Primaris get boltguns. Just incase anyone whines about me using them as vets. Here is my first one. Pretty happy with it, although the left arm positioning was a bit annoying because of the head on the belt. Can live with it though. Few mold lines to clear up too.

Could do mixed metal colors with green/vomit ooze coming from the joints, like they've just been slapping their armor together all these years. You could mark out your elites or HQ by having a few chunks of pre-heresy colors and maybe even a shoulder insignia.

My first scripture. I think it's just about legible. How'd I do WiP?

Thin those highlights

Fantastic

Looks great.

Bought a test of honor samurai warband but dont know which clans colours to paint them in. Anybody got anything on that kind of jazz

When it comes to primers, you want to use a flat color right? Not some sort of gloss or satin thing right? Heard pic related is good, just wanna make sure I'm grabbing the right type

Is it sandable? What's the drying time?

Novamarines starting up for the Dark Imperium

Base colours on, wash done, tidy up and hilights next

Touch 20, handle an hour, "Completely" in 24.

Not sure about sandable, what effect would sandability have

Generally yes, however a gloss black primer will make metallics way more shiny and reflective, and is essential for the "true" metallic solvent based paints like Alclad makes.

Should be fine then. You want to be careful of the ones which dry in 10 mins or less, I find they aren't as good. If it's sandable that means after priming you can still clean up mold lines you missed.

Since the main color I'm painting is gonna be white, doesn't really apply, but I'll keep it in mind. Thanks

Cool, thanks for the input. I'll do a test when I get home to see how well it holds up to what my friends have said watch me fuck it up

If you really want to be safe, spray a sprue, then try to scratch it with your fingernail after 30 min and after 24 hrs.

That's not the primer, that's just the normal spray paint. The primer one says PRIMER straight on it.

First time poster with first time minis. How did I do?

Needs a wash and some highlights. Seems fine enough for a first time basecoat, but you should practice painting "in between the lines" per se.

clear the mold lines before painting, learn to drybrush, shade, and wash
and for crying out loud, do your bases properly

Not all cans that say primer on them actually work as well as proper sandable lacquer rattle cans.

German Uniforms were never that green, if you can apply a wash of brown over the whole model it should show off all those nice details

I used some home made black wash on them, guess that's not enough then. Trying to improve on my shaky as fuck hands.

They are unbased. They are going to get their bases later. Thanks for the drybrushing tip, I looked up on it.

>German Uniforms were never that green

That's what I thought. Fucking Italeri, the box on the back said I should use their medium flat green. Do I have to buy specific brown wash or can I make it with watered down brown acrylic?

If those're the first minis you've ever painted, pretty good (first time ever is NOT for layering paints, save that for second attempt). The rifles look a little sloppier than the rest and the second guy from right has a gray smear on the back of his hand.

Really watered down brown acrylic will work. We're talking 1:10 paint to water. Italeri are shit for paints and callouts, I've done a Lynx Helicopter in the wrong grey before because of Italeri's incompetence.

Vallejo 955 "German Grey" is the exact shade of WW2 German uniforms and what I use

>Trying to improve on my shaky as fuck hands.
Try bracing your hands on your desk AND on each other as you paint (elbows on the table and your hands together holding the model and brush). I got shaky hands too and this is the only way I can steady myself. It takes some getting used to but it's how I do everything now.

Elbows on the arm rests, wrists braced against the table, sometimes fingers bracing against each other works pretty well for me.

>Italeri are shit for paints and callouts

But I just bought 6 different paints from them. Well fuck. I'll see if they sell Valejo paints in this shithole country. In the meanwhile guess I'll have make do with these paints for the rest of the germans, see if I can change the tone or some shit.

>Not all cans that say primer on them actually work as well as proper sandable lacquer rattle cans.

Yes, that is true, but is talking about a specific product made by Rustoleum that is well-regarded here in /WIP/.

looks amazing

Some I've been considering:

Mould and verdigris; paint the metal all dark bronze (black base drybrushed up) and the soft parts in a warm grey-brown. Then do green-blue washes over everything.

Super rusty; start with a brown base, drybrush dark silver, paint over the non-metal parts with white, apply lots of orange and brown washes.

Slimy slug; brown base, grey drybrush, block metals in dark brown with silver highlights, many washes of nuln oil gloss, pick out teeth and such in white, gloss varnish.

Bright; base white, metal parts get a coat of dark brown followed by copper, yellow wash over everything, bit of pink on the fleshy parts, thin sepia glaze to tie it all together.

Radioactive; same as bright, but after doing the copper, glaze with yellow and green and highlight eyes and such with yellow.

Mushroom; grey, light grey-brown drybrush, details in very dark grey, dark brown wash.

Working on an Iron Hands, I'm happy with the base

Next time I post this faggot he will have an iron hands-style shotgun.

Sorry for shit quality. Does this thing need a ram, or is the basic shape OK as it is?

I'm not SM player... but I love dreadnoughts and IH!

Hey, I'm trying to do a wet stone effect like pic related, and I was wondering if nuln oil gloss over mechanicus standard grey or something darker would create this effect? If that's not the method I want to use, what would you suggest? Thanks.

Teeth lookin extra front armor(pic related)

I'd suggest black ink and gloss varnish.

After all paint job done, use a gloss varnish(spary is better) paint.

Well, how does she look boys? Any problems you can spot or did I do a decent job? Obviously not painted yet, but does the tabard and pose and whatnot look alright?

So long story short, I wanted some metal lictors and only could snag one unassembled, so I'm dealing with premade models. Pic related was horribly primed and I'm going to remove the base to give him an acetone bath. Do I need to freeze him first and unassemble him before I do the stripping?

Also the stripping paint guide on the OP doesn't work

Acetone will dissolve (most kinds of) superglue, but if it isn't able to get to it, it might just eat away at the edges and make it weak, which would be bad. Probably best to freeze and pull apart (actually, if it's metal, try just pulling first, you might not need to freeze) so the acetone can get right at the glue and give you a nice clean mini to work on.

you using paint or a tiny marker for that?
looks great and very neatly done.

Looks really cool. Now give her justice with some paintjob

Alrighty, into the freezer he goes! He's even waving goodbye.

put him on a plate or something user, it could well fall apart, don't want to lose parts.

Very cool, but shouldn't she have those big round exhaust spouts on her backpack, similar to a marine's?

I experimented with those, but ultimately I decided I personally like the look better without them. They kinda messed up the mini's outline. That and they were a pain in the dick to try and make.

Handsome job. Too many people doing loot conversions overdo it but this one is lookin good. A little ram couldn't hurt though

Ah yes of course. So how long will this scamp need to be in the freezer for? Hopefully not long

there are some bugs in your freezer user

That's normal for a nid player

I wanna convert an ork vehicle that I can use in 40k, preferably with good rules.
Any idea?

Make a lifted trukk

Has anyone ever used textured rolling pins like the ones from Green Stuff World? Are they worth the money?

take a Manticore and some grots which strap one or two of the rockets to their Backs

Thoughts on this scheme?

Dark red is brownish and shiny.

I think it would look good with all chaos god marines as well

20 minutes to an hour or so, the cold needs time to work on the water molecules bound in the glue.
It's a metal miniature, so it should cool down fast, so probably closer to the 20 minute mark.

That cloth looks kind of wrong to me. Too symetrical, wrinkles too narrow, not forming proper tubes.

The books in this link may be helpful for you:

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Can work for SM as well

A shrinking primer is always preferable to spray paint.

not sure if trolling but isnt that literally the WordBearers colour scheme?

Yes I got the cracked ice / dry earth one and I wasn't impressed with it. The texture has a kind of grain in it, presumably from the tool which cut it out and it's pretty visible in the final product. Also, I found that most putties tended to stick to the pin as much as the base and often tore or curled when being rolled. It's a bitch to keep clean and just generally not very helpful. Since cracked earth is possible to achieve with different methods, I pretty much gave up on it.

For a pattern which wouldn't be easy to do any other way, I might consider it. Lube it with vaseline and use a good putty like procreate and it could work, but it will be a pain and you may well have to do some tidy-up on the texture.

It's their pre-heresy scheme (red with black should pads) with gold trim on the chaos added trim as far as I can see.

Word bearers have silver metal and a lighter shade of red.

Thank you, I appreciate it. I'll be sure to give it a look before I do the next one. I've got a lot to go, so by the end hopefully i'll be able to do it well.

Are you from Australia?

Update on the little lictor that couldn't. The guy who built it used green stuff instead of pinning. No wonder it looked terrible. Time for a bath

How am I supposed to use acrylic Skin Tone Tint Base? When I bought it I thought it was gonna be like regular acrylic paint and it mostly acts like that, but I'm having a hard time coating stuff with it.

The grey marks on the hands in is caused by black priming and applying said skin tone tint base on it.

Wonder how many people put one of those up their butt...

Tints aren't so much paint as concentrated pigment, you mix them with paints, rather than painting with them on their own.

I have got light flesh tint. What kind of paint do I have to mix it with to have well sticking flesh color?

Relictor or Reviler?

Off white blending into pale greens and dark green/brown in recesses. Blend red around any mutations.

Google search things like wound erythema, wound infection, telangictasia for inspiration.

t. A Doctor who would do it himself, but its too much like work.