WIP - Work in Progress General

Is greenstuff normally flexible when it cures?

I think I broke it.

Cheers, pleased with how its going so far. For the love of god though, if you're going to attempt this mini, don't glue it to the base before you paint the cloak inner.. I'm finding it impossible

it can flex a little bit, bit thicker pieces should be quite stiff.

Right? The forgefiend is pretty neat as a model. Lots of weird, interesting stuff going on. All my chaos stuff is salvaged from someone else's mangled trash, so I'm pretty happy with how its coming along. There's actually some sprue bits left in places I still need to cut and paint over - managed to catch most of the mold lines that had been left under one of the many failed undercoats.

Chaos players - how do you guys usually paint those tubed half-meat-half-pipe things that are on every 6e+ chaos unit?

Thanks.

I'm thinking I used too much yellow. That appears to slow down the cure time.

When your painting in sub assemblings for stuff like space marines/cadian/tau etc, What do you use to glue it all together when your done, I've been told you can't use plastic glue so what do you use, is super glue really good enough to hold on arms?.

I didn't actually even realize you'd freehanded that exorcist symbol until another user commented on it. Top props.

Plastic glue is fine, just scrape it off the glue areas with a knife to expose bare plastic, and don't use loads, else it'll spill over onto your paint.

I like loctite gel superglue. Nice bottle, easy to apply the right amount, great hold, has a few seconds to play around with it before it dries.

Itll actually hold respectably well paint to paint, but obviously scrape clean a plastic contact surface for best results.

>huge internal debate to ditch my idea of using candy apple red
Its just such a bitch to do with a brush, and on top of that, its hard to make it look better than just ok. And a pain in the ass to fix mistakes on. My scheme was the red on helmets shoulders knees and elbows and a gray for the rest with HQs and elites in all red. I just finished my first squad and was planning on stripping and trying again now that I got the hand of blend highlighting.

Is it that easy?, I never scrapped away paint before.

I once painted sub assemblies and then put everything together with super glue, but a few years later pieces started coming off.

Now I paint the sub assembly and use a knife to scrape away paint/primer on the area I plan on gluing, then I use plastic glue on that area to get the pieces together. Haven't had any issues with parts falling off.

Paint isn't thick (at least it shouldn't be), scrape the edge of your blade across the arm joins etc and it should come off in a thin layer. Just be gentle, sometimes it can take a few goes to get all the layers off.

Cheers, I find freehand works best reductively, i.e. rough out the shape in basecoat colour and go back with the armour base colour to tidy it up before doing the black lines.

I use plastic glue. I assemble them with tack to prime in their pose, and the tack will cover the areas that need to be glued from being covered in paint. Even then, since I usually forget to leave spots of bare plastic on my bases scraping the paint off works just fine.

Yeah, I just tried it now on a test model, thought it be harder, I got a question though, on Army green what do I use to shade it, dark green, black, or dark brown?.

Nice. I've got some deathwatch on hold until their book comes out and I'm planning on getting adventurous with some of the chapter choices, so I'll remember that.

If you don't mind my asking, What's your recipe for that red?

Khorne red basecoat
nuln oil wash in recesses
Wazdakka red edge highlight
1:1 mix WD red / white extreme edge highlight

It's basically what Duncan does in this vid
youtube.com/watch?v=dttCzGy4sQw

Thanks boss. Looks excellent so far

Any of those would work, try a test model and see which you like best!

Working on a Confrontation Tech Baron. The combi-bolter will get hazard stripes when it's done. I think the chest plate will end up in standard steel metal although I'm also considering white for that soviet cosmonaut look.

>sit down to paint
>prepare work space
>get the wet pallete ready
>mix some paint on the pallete
>grab a model
>put some paint on the brush
>about to touch the brush onto the model
>suddenly arm feels heavy and brushing motion feels awkward, which means brain has gone LOLNOPE and decided I can't really be bothered to paint right now
>move everything to the side and do something else
FUCK

Nice blends my man

I usually go do basecoating when I derp like that

How do I git gud at painting without dedicating time or effort?

You don't, practice is essential for painting skills.
Best you can do without effort is spend money to have someone paint for you.

Be talented, which you aren't if you are asking how to git gud. Ipso facto ur fukd kid

Post where you at now.

Now that's a classic model. A little jealous.

You could go white with maroon trim, for the classic adeptus mechanicus look.

>that yellow

3 (mostly) down, 7 to go
Man, I fucking love those models.

Slapping together my CSM bike lord. Crazy dude who pops wheelies off cliffs to cut shit up dual-wielding the Murder Sword and a chainsword. It's not entirely serious. I've narrowed it down to these choices:

- Ghost rider-y expy with a skull. One has no lower jaw and is indented itno the power armour, the oner has a jaw and is outside and fully visible.
- Bretonnian knight head, maybe a crazed Don Quixote reference (though with swords instead of a lance. Why did they get rid of Power Lances anyway?)
- Chaos Termie head shaped like a rhino, named accordingly. Would fit his design.

Gorgeous stuff. I'm so tempted to field 10 but I gotta see the TS codex first. I might not have enough points for them and enough sorcerers.

Those are worries for not-so-far-in-the-future me.

Fair enough yeah. Maybe it's my problem though as I'm trying to stuff in at least 2 ExSorcs, Ahriman (all 3 on disc) with Magnus on top of a second SO squad. Might be in over my head.

How should I paint zombies? I was thinking of basecoating everything with nurgling green, but I am not sure where to go from there.

Amazing looking

DOOMRIDER
Captcha: select all vehicles

I do have the smiling DP head but it's far too huge to mount on power armour. It looks comically huge, like a big head cheat in an old vidya.

I'm 99% going with the rhino chaos termie head. I love those helmets but I missed two opportunities to use them since I thought of better ideas. If you can tell me of a way to convert a doomrider head though, I'll seriously consider it.

I'll probably end up not using my Magnus that much or mostly just for 'competitive games' at my local club. Having already played a few games, he seems too strong right now.
It's gonna be Ahriman and some Sorcs for me.

Here's an old pic of my nurgle bikers. Termi heads are a poor fit on marine torsos

what about a terminator sorcerer?

>Slapping together my CSM bike lord. Crazy dude who pops wheelies off cliffs to cut shit up dual-wielding the Murder Sword and a chainsword. It's not entirely serious. I've narrowed it down to these choices:
>- Ghost rider-y expy with a skull. One has no lower jaw and is indented itno the power armour, the oner has a jaw and is outside and fully visible.
>literally Doomrider
Do that shit
NANANANANANANANANA

Fair enough yeah that's what I'm thinking. Ahriman will be the de-facto leader of my army with the occasional GUEST STARRING: BIG RED.

Still gonna be buying him anyway, I want him for the collection/painting, but it's fun to watch him wreck face sometime.

Hello there, thought i'd share my terminator lord's familiar.

Most are yeah due to the huge tusks but the rhino-like head is fairly conservative.

Which skull would be doomrider? Doesn't he have an actual face? with flames and horns? I don't have those features sadly. I'd just be painting his skull glowing red/orange like it's a really hot metal skull.

ty

Thanks for the suggestion, although I think the maroon might clash with the orange? On the other hand metal seems like such a safe choice, a bit boring.

Thanks, although I think the camera is hiding some of the patchiness.

How can you tell what consistency is right for your paint? How thin is too thin? I'm very new to this painting thing and I don't really know what I should be trying for.

thinking about doing a bright pink slaaneshi warband, would white primer be best to use? never see people use white primer, only black

It's too thin if it gushes out your brush or doesn't cover efficiently
It's too thick if you have to scrub the paint out, it doesnt flow out the brush, or paint brush marks are visible
Just use the duncan method until you get more comfortable -- put your paint on the palette and add 'a touch' of water, thats usually enough

Definitely. You can get good coverage with darker colours over a light undercoat relatively easily, but going the other way is asking for all sorts of trouble.

After 10,000 year I've finally finished painting, it's time to conquer Earth!

These are my Plague and Enforcers for Deadzone, I can't believe I've had all this since 2013 and haven't painted them until this year.

Getting stoned and painting my very early wip Grey Hunters. This is the life boys.

How do you even drill this?

with a drill
In the end

G-gary?!

The spike is in the way

Alright, I think I understand. I've been doing it the way duncan does, so I guess I'll just keep at it. Practice makes perfect, right?
Thanks, user

cut it off then stick it on again

Whoops, I'm an idiot.
Maybe cut the spike off here and reglue after

hey good idea thanks

>The spike is in the way

I usually start drilling barrels by gouging a small nick in the end with a sharp hobby knife. Then, I move in with the pin vise, use the nick as "guide" for the drill bit. When I'm drilling larger holes, like those for counter-sinking magnets, most of the work isn't done with the vise, but actually by scraping around the inside of the hole with the blade of the hobby knife. Perhaps for this job, you could try doing most of the work with the knife like that.

The other possibility is to (obviously) cut the spike off. If you prefer your burna with the spike on it, be very careful when you cut it off, drill yer barrel, and glue the spike back on again when you are done!

Come in from an angle, don't drill too deep.

What should I do to this ogryn bone'ead conversion's head? None of the other conversions will have that big metal plate, but I feel like I should do a bit more.

Hi WIP, I need some help.

I forgot to design my base before priming and the models are already painted a fair bit.

I used PVA glue and super glue on the base.

The base is so smooth that I don't think I can paint it without a primer. What should I do?

Rough up the surface with a file or emery board.

I don't think that's really doable, the surface is rather fragile and I would destroy the structure.

If nothing else works I'd have to do that, though

Don't even know if this is even the right place to post this, but is this scheme completely awful? I want to do either a red or blue scheme with a differently colored backpack and pauldrons, but I'm not sure if this looks right.

carefully cut off the tooth, drill, glue it back on.

It's me again and now finishing my squad with the Primaris Marine Sergeant. I wanted to actually make him look cooler so I tried to green stuff a tabard for the first time, how did I do? Also seeing as I am playing Lamenters, all my sergeants are going to be equipped with Power Swords. Should I model him to look like he is holding one or instead make it look sheathed?

Brush on primer of course.

Sheathed is probably easier than slinging a bolt rifle.

Not bad on the gs, but it looks a bit off to me that it clings to both legs when he's got such a wide stance.

Skull or two mounted on the horns?

bionic eye?

My mistake, turns out "BA chapters" for Intercessor's use chainswords, not power swords. Also I agree on how it looks odd, just unsure how I can go about fixing it since it's dry.

any guides on how to do scenery? I need to do a couple of forest and would like to make them on the cheap side.

Buy an airbrush and abuse the fuck out of colour gradients, stencils, washes and drybrushing. So long as you only do stuff which is easy to do with those things, you need only put a relatively small amount of effort and time into it and get some pretty impressive results.

Sheathed is the way real chads roll. Chads dont need to wave their swords around until the enemy actually needs some stabbing, unlike them manlets.

I've heard they don't work like they're "supposed" too, any specific brand you can recommend?

>Also seeing as I am playing Lamenters, all my sergeants are going to be equipped with Power Swords. Should I model him to look like he is holding one or instead make it look sheathed?

If you're going to play Lamenters using the rules for Blood Angels, you can't take power swords on Intercessor Sergeants; you can opt for a chainsword instead.

I paint the exterior a pale fleshy colour and the inside iron.

Nice blending, love the pants and gun, post when it's done.

Make an armature out of wire. Look for some soft copper wire which you can easily bend with your fingers. Take two pieces and twist them together with the ends loose. Then take another two and do the same. Twist the two parts together around each other, forming a branch which splits into two and then into four. Do the same again and then twist the two branches together. Do everything again and then twist the two thick ends together to form a trunk. Bend the branches until they look about right.

Then make a big blob of epoxy putty (milliput yellow will be fine for this bit) and use it to stick the armature to a piece of plasticard or something to form the base. Roughly sculpt it into roots going into the ground.

Then you need to skin the armature. Roll out sheets of epoxy putty and wrap them around the wire, pushing it in with a tool. You may need to switch to a better quality putty as you go up to thinner wires (procreate or green stuff will give you the flexibility needed to avoid breakage). Gouge some rough lines into the putty to give a vague impression of bark.

Then texture the surface. There are two options here. Either go over the whole thing with a thin coat of putty carefully sculpting bark texture all over it, or get some crackle medium and mix it with PVA glue. Smear the resulting goop over the surface and try to scratch a few lines into it to start the texture off. Wait for it to dry and it should hopefully crack and look a bit like bark. Seal it with more PVA once it is dry.

I cut out a piece of the cloth and put more greenstuff back on to make it look like it's folding in on itself from a breeze. I think it looks better now, just need to wait for it to dry then smooth out all the imperfections.

Thanks for that, I was wondering why Battlescribe would only allow me to equip Chainswords.

Posted in the last thread, but it died before anyone answered.

Are airbrush stencils worth it and which ones would you recommend? Hoping to do some harlequins with them and maybe some stuff for my admech, orks and genestealer cult too. Death ray designs and fallout hobbies seem to have good patterns, but they charge a lot to ship to the UK.

Is cutting your own stencils viable? I've been looking at the Antex Cut Master tool which isn't that expensive...

Try inverting the colors and see if you like it more or less.

Repainting more lads, its gonna be a longer task than I anticipated and it may be a while till I can play a game of 8th.
Got about 3-4% of the boys repainted, so I guess thats a start, but ive found quality drops if I try and batch paint too much.

How many boyz you got?

He's already got skulls on his name and some belt bits he'll be wearing.

Yeah, I'll probably do this. Right or left?

I dont even know 2bh, last time I played just after 6th ed was released I had about 55-60 table-ready boys in my dreadmob, another 30-40 who had really ropey paintjobs from when I was 13 which I refused to field, and an absolute shitload of semi-painted, semi-built boys that I bought but forgot about after I got distracted by and dragged into FoW.

I might repaint the dreadmob before I finish these guys, so Ive at least got some points to throw down

I'm interested in Orks but the model count is so damn high, I am not sure I'd have the patience to paint all of them.

Well I went for the skull. Admittedly, he looks kinda badass. I'm using a loyalist bike so I had to spruce it up a bit. Big trophy rack on the back and a gargoyle head instead of a searchlight.

Now I need a fluff excuse for my Faming Skullheaded lord. Maybe he has a really heavy stammer when over-excited, was granted a wish by a daemon prince for a job well done. He's quite easily amused so he wanted to ask for a flaming skull tattoo but couldn't get "tattoo" out. So he got a flaming skull.

And now he rages on. And occasionally does cocaine.