WIP Thread

Painting progresses on my Minotaurs. Apologize for the lighting, but I wanted to get some pics while it was still light.

Also, gotta love how photographing a model brings out all the stuff you missed.

>My friend suggests just slathering the whole guy in nuln oil or agrax earthshade, then going over the recesses a second time to make them even darker. Is that a good idea?

Honestly? Shading this model is not going to be much of an improvement. I want to suggest slathering him in non-acetone nail polish remover and starting over, but even Saint Duncan kept one of his early Marines to remind him of how far he had come. Administering The Emperor's Peace would rob you of that opportunity.

There are little things that people here sperg about like mold lines and the fact that your bolt gun's barrel isn't drilled out, but picking on those would ignore the elephant in the room: your paint is *way* too thick and globby.

I see that the base is just plain black, but it doesn't look like black *paint* to me. Did you prime this model before you painted him? If not, and you just heaped on enough acrylic paint (pic related are actually painted with thick *enamel* paints, thank you very much!) to cover up the bare plastic, that could be why he looks the way he does. Otherwise, it means you're just getting too much paint on the model in one go.

Are you using the right paints? Cheap craft paint from Michael's is going to be a lot thicker than paint meant for fine-scale modeling, and the amount of pigment in it is difficult to get right even with thinning and experimenting. You're better off spending a few extra dollars and getting the good stuff (Reaper, Privateer, Vallejo, CItadel, etc.).

Your paint should be thinned to about the consistency of milk. Yes, that means after the first coat of green, you will still be able to tell what colour you primed your marine, but at also means he won't look like he's wearing Mk VII Butter Cream Frosting. Layer the paint on in thin coats to avoid this.

Finally, take care that even with thinned paint, you don't load too much on your brush at once. This can result in some unpleasant effects when you unleash it upon your subject.

>Did you prime this model before you painted him?
Yeah, he was primed when my friend handed the model to me, like Brother Armless Crooked-Pack and the guy with the flamer.

The paint really doesn't seem that thick or globby, there really isn't any detail lost due to paint being goopy, it hugs the model as it should. I didn't actually have that good of a pallet to work with so they probably could have been thinner though. I haven't heard "milk like" before, that seems really thin.

I'm only using citadel paints.

>I haven't heard "milk like" before, that seems really thin.

It does, doesn't it? Really, though, it needs to be somewhat thicker than water, but (since you told us you're using Citadel) *much* thinner than it comes out of the pot. You'll hear Saint Duncan talk about multiple thin coats - sometimes the magic number is two coats, sometimes it's more - and the picture you provided of the other primed models looks like you didn't have a really bad problem with primer.

Have you considered making a wet palette as described in the OP?

Simple Green is a merciful and forgiving god

how are the Badger Miniatire paints?

I've been using Super Clean to strip minis and it does a hell of a job. Just have to be a little careful because it will give you some slight (but still painful) chemical burns.

Finally got a chance to prime. At least, I can paint something!

Good.

those are fucking awesome. the mecha-squig, r/c bommwagons, and tiny grotkopter are all truly inspired. mek/10

And it doesn't melt plastic?

It probably will if you leave it in long enough. The best safe-for-plastic-but-actual-high-strength-and-not-simple-green-bullshit is rubbing alcohol at 70% to 99%.

Grenade Launchers are neat this ed.

While we're discussing Simple Green/Clean, does anyone know what effects it can have on Citadel Finely Detailed Resin™?

I'm liking this

Finished these 12 boys which means after a few months I've finally fully painted all 60 of my slugga boyz.
I'll post a pic of them all tomorrow if you guys want, proud of these dudes.

I posted this in the general warhammer fantasy thread, but repeating it here for those who are with limited space...

So I'm not sure if anyone cares, but I found some (somewhat) cheap methods to display warhammer armies for limited space environments. These are sold in bed,bath and beyond, and walmart, and are stackable. They're actually upside Refridgerator bins. But you can place your mini's inside, then stack another on top of it. Protects against dust and damage, and they're acryllic so they're sturdy and nice and see thru. About 12 bucks each bin, but you probably only need 3 or 4 at most. Just make sure you get the same sizes so they stack up right.

Super close to finishing my Hierodule. Would have been done tonight, if I didn't discover too late that my Warpstone Green dried out, which is what I'm planning to use on his gun and mouth.

Other than that, I'm very happy with how this model is turning out. This is the first time I've used the updated version of my paint scheme for my Tyranids after changing it for my GSC. The Necron Abyss along the ridges looks really cool, and the colors all blended together very nicely.

Now just to get that green and some super glue that won't dry to its own cap on me.

Some pics of it filled up

Hmm Well it's well painted and looks really good, but I'm not sure if blue chiteous plating would be the color I'd have gone for... looks a bit ...artificial. But the arms and blades look really good

Kinda stuck in a theme here. My army is Hive Fleet Daikaiju, so their color scheme is based off of Godzilla i.e. grey skin, blue back.

ehh I guess...but Godzilla himself isn't blue...even the spines aren't blue until he lights 'em the fuck up. I mean it doesn't look bad just a bit toy like.

...

Well worth the money, if you're planning on displaying your army, don't have a ton of room, and don't want to buy an entire display cabinet like the Detolf from Ikea. These fit nice on a dresser.

Solid work. Well done for doing it all.

>grey skin, blue back.

That blue better be blinding OSL or you're a faggot.

Started on my leviathan, easy part out of the way

Another newb question

If you're going to use green stuff for a custom piece but it needs to come off, like say you want a custom (100% greenstuff) chest and back armor with shoulder straps what would you do? As in how would you mold it in place on your figure so that after curing it would come off and thus hold the shape but not stick? The chest and back underneath are smooth.

I know veggie oil works for molds, but this will be days of greenstuff as I build up from base to detail to make the piece, and I want to be sure I don't wind up with a solid mass instead of a removable piece.

Thoughts?

Tech Baron 90% done.

Need to work more on the backside, realized I've neglected it some.

very nice. what is the best primer to use with invisible paint tho?

what has Warhammer 40k become...I literally want to cry myself to sleep at this new theme of 40k..

user just make your minis like you want to make them. Convert and Greenstuff and have fun your way. Fuck anyone who tells you different. Just don't be an ass to people who like different things from you. Let them have their fun, and get your own fun as well. The worst thing is people telling others that they are having bad-wrong fun.

>OSL
I don't know what you're referring to there. No need to get hostile.

I am a complete and utter noob with a few questions. I am starting with Infinity playing Nomads.

1. How many brushes do I need?
2. I have some acrylic paint from a painter shop. They are huge bottles, but good quality colours. Can I use these? I heard that Minis were painted with acrylic?
3. Do I need clippers and files from GW or can I just go to my local hardware store and get them for half?

Seriously, why on Earth can't we just chill, show off our stuff, and be friendly, cordial and constructive towards each other....Yea I know we're on Veeky Forums, whatever, we're a community here, and should support each other in our anti social hobbies!

anyway i'll probably get flamed and harassed but here are some of my finished brets

I like the blue guy. Some of them are a bit questionable, but I really like the blue guy with the banner. I've actually been considering making some Bretonians myself once i'm done with my current project.

jesus did you paint those with peeled banana?

no but seriously wip is about the most chill positive place on this whole underwater flamenco dancing website

'It's true, we are more chill than most of the site, I mean you'll get some guys who get on you for a bad paintjob, but that isn't so much about stylistic differences as it is a commentary on deficient technique, and they aren't always assholes about it, though some are.

Some ratlings wip

lol, anyway the point of my intitial posts was to let you guys know about the display method of the upside down refridgerator bins. I work really well..

>tacticool ratlings
That's actually pretty hilarious. Anyways, they're looking good. What do you plan to do for their bases?

Looking forwards to 30 updates on him before you've even finished the basecoats user

Ballin'. Thanks a bunch famalam

The paint on the very tips of the pointy parts of my death guard are already chipping off and I'm not even done with the squad. I even had a base coat chip before I could get to the second coat. Is this normal or did I fuck something up somewhere? I used p3 primer.

its normal but i clear coat when im done with a model so i dont fuck it up

How does one seal sand onto a base?

I've glued it on, but particles keep falling off the top. Will this cease to be a problem once it's all painted?

Primer and varnish seals it. You can also brush thin glue over it.

Well that's annoying. Does the clear coat add any gloss? I know there are matte varnishes, but could that dull the blood and nurgle rot?

I use army painter aegis suit it's got a small amount of shine to it

Got a little further on this guy

For sand I usually super glue the sand onto the base, then seal it all with a 50/50 water/school glue mix coated over the top. Been working fine for me

Awesome thanks for that.

No prob. Like that other user said, the primer will also help seal it again over that water/glue mix so that shit's gonna be rock solid unless you pick away at it with an exacto or some dumb shit like that

This doesn't dry with a chalky/white crust over it?

I've never had it happen to me, but the primer would seal it down unless you really fucked it up. I actually switched to a bottle of clear school glue a few months ago because I found it for cheap so you could use that if you're worried about the white crust. If you're worried about it, try 2 parts water to 1 parts glue. Would be a little more liquidy but you could slowly apply it in layers

Well wip, I've finally settled on a theme for my new project. And now I need to figure out how to do some good arctic bases. Any suggestions?

Watered down PVA

Mada a Talon of Cortus Contemptors using Blood and Skulls legs, and ball bearings for bonding studs.

Do people think they look different enough from normal contemptors?

>how to do some good arctic bases. Any suggestions?
Imo the old school way of drybrushing sand white always looked pretty decent for pure snow bases. It's the cheapest option anyway.

If you want to do snow keep in mind when you read tutorials that some people use the terms bicarbonate of soda and baking powder interchangeably, but baking powder may have additives in it that could possibly make your glittery snow yellow over time.

There are a number of products for railroad modeling that you can use.
I bought some snow glitter some years ago, which probably is crushed glass or plastic flakes.
Anyway if you mix some white paint into your pva and dip the bases into this stuff you'll get the whitest most sparkly snow effect imaginable.
Like the really thick snow with huge crystals you get in a dry cold, you know.

That's what I'd use anyway.

Bicarbonate of soda makes for some really real looking snow.

Its also quite cheap

I've heard that Valhallan Blizzard works wonders for getting snow. Also, something cool I've seen are things like cracked earth effects being used for broken up ice chunks, things like that.

I like your style.

What's that one thing that pisses you off at the speed of light, /wipg/?

For me it might have to be nice minis on shit or lazy bases

Thanks guys. I'll give these a try.

Mostly airbrushed paintjobs with a little bit of ink/ shading paint thrown into the recesses and a single highlight applied after, and people calling that "high quality painting."

In general this whole fad about using airbrushes for everything kinda takes the fun out of actually PAINTING miniatures.

What new theme? The model is from 1991.

I'd say so, bonding studs are probably the best way to shows they're Cortus varients, good idea!

About ten days into the bloat drone
, was a really fun model to paint and I got to practice my shading feathering on the green- black transitions.

My only regret is gluing the guns too early and needing to cut them off afterwards to paint.

It's a very cool idea. I need to see if something similar is available in the uk.

Overuse of airbrushes and 'effects' done with them. Some of the countless painting studio armies you see on facebook look downright horrible even slightly close up.

Boutta start working on this bad boy. What am I in for? Any building advice? Still don't know what pose I'm gonna do him in.

What are you working on?

>mfw airbrush studios could make beautiful clean paintjobs by simply doing a 2-3 color blend and hand painting details like gold trim and adding a pin wash
>instead they do zero wash and just go full blast with ridiculous preshading, black to white gradients, and OSL out the ass

It's like women putting on so much makeup they look like clowns.

That's a lot of Sheer Heart Attacks. Good work user.

Ugliest dreadnought. Return him and buy a leviathan

Just a request: Could you measure the missile launcher pods. I've been looking at them for a conversion, but I need to know if they're the right size, and I can't find measurements anywhere.

>I do kind of want to see someone try fitting a Mk VI though, with the gorget filed away

Was looking for inspiration this morning, as I am about to start painting my own Primaris units, and found this.

With Orks you cant have enough boyz, but I personally have no interest in bloody gear unless its Khorne, Dark Elves/Eldar. Seems to take away from the core of what an army is suppose to be getting across otherwise.
As far as how you did, fantastic, though I hate saying it, it holds true, thin your paints bruv. Especially on the armor and clothing parts. The skin looks thick too but not very noticeable. Warhammer TV on youtube has some great Ork Boyz painting suggestions if you would like a very detailed step by step as well. It has good tips for novice and advanced painters.

Looks good, though it could use some washes. and highlights on the gear.

Continuing to dick around with bits and pieces to make a new Archon. Can't quite get one I'm satisfied with, and I don't like the official one or its pose either.

I might paint this one up and see how it turns out, but it still feels a little bare.

In case you guys have a spare marine you want to paint for a Deathwatch squad or just a lone challenge. Thought you might like it. Took inspiration from the nice user that did it a few years ago, just reorganised it in Legion order and with good pictures.

Remember to post here while and after painting.

Why not. Store-anniversary chadmarine captain wouldn't ever have made it into my army anyway.

Come ooooon something not red.

I'm so sorry user. I must admit I snorted.

...

Just finished a 5 man squad and Ragnar. What do you guys think?

Space Puppy dread. Might add a bit of grass and maybe work on the runes a bit more but otherwise its pretty much finished.

fucking yiff players everywhere i swear to god 1000 chapters and everyone is a furry

eh sure

Why not, I have the white dwarf model and did not want to give him ultramarine power armor