Work in Progress General /wip/

Will I ever finish painting all these models ?

Does it even matter ? I had just as much fun playing them sprayed green.

>Does it even matter ?
Yes it does. Playing with unfinished models is like walking around outside naked. Even if you don't care about other people seeing you, they don't want to see your nuts swinging in the breeze.

>I had just as much fun playing them sprayed green.
horde armies are entirely more fun to play when they're fully finished

you might as well play with bottlecaps if you're not going to paint your models

If you don't like painting, why not stick to playing wargames digitally? That way people don't have to see your unpainted minis
It's not the end of the world but I'd get pretty triggered if I played against the same dude over and over and he never progressed painting his army

me too the tongue is actually kinda cute

You should just pick one you feel like painting, finish him, and then do another. Eventually you'll go through all of them. You don't have to make the color schemes complex either, it just looks better to have them painted. Blocking in the main colors and metals, with a wash on them, that would look a lot better already.

I mean, look at your Cadian opponent. His miniatures are painted. Doesn't that look nice?

What's the best way to glue something that's already painted to something else that's already painted?

I'm building a Ghost Ark at the moment and it's got these 2 railings on the side that makes painting details very awkward. I was going to paint these pieces separately but I've heard that gluing paint to paint is a bitch.

Rub off the paint where you're gluing?

Cover the spots in malleable gum? Use plastic glue which eats through paint with ease? Just don't apply paint to those spots?

What paint did you use for the armor? Is that screaming skull??

start of my chaos renegade force using gsc codex

I tried painting a power sword for the first time, how did I do?

It's rakarth flesh with a sepia wash

Any tips on painting yellow lenses?
I'm considering filling the sockets with Averland Sunset then layering with Yriel Yellow and Dorn Yellow, pic related

I'm far from an expert but maybe make the transition more subtle? Also incorporate a more sporadic pattern than just zig-zag?

That walker looks amazing, not sure what the floating thing on the left is due to it being slightly out of focus and overlit.

the eyes are not really big enough that a three step transition is even gonna be noticeable.
Just do your orange/dark yellow base, a line in bright yellow at the bottom and you are done.
If you want to be fancy you can add the white reflection for the lenses in the corner of the eye.

If you want a soft transition you are better of just thinning you paint down a bit instead of trying to layer in there.

it's this guy
nice choice of model btw, I always thought this one would be great for Inq28 or something like that.

thanks, sorry for the poor photos!

spot on!

Alright thanks
Only painted eyes with glazes so far so no idea what I'm doing

Recommendations for this guys left arm?

What options do you have available? What is he going to be anyway? Tzeentch warrior for AoS?

If you got an arm from an ork arrer you could maybe do a spellcasting pose.
A wing instead of an arm might look cool too. Like one of those vampires mid transformation, if you konw what I mean.

>it's this guy

Oh freddled gruntbuggly,
Thy micturations are to me,
As plurdled gabbleblotchits,
On a lurgid bee,

He'll be an AoS Tzaangor Muscle Shaman and 40k Muscle Wizard. I am decent at sculpting, just not sure what his other arm should be doing/holding

an Ork arrer arm would be good, I like it more than the stupidly swolen arm that the model is supposed to use and I do want to get Scourge Wings but so expensive

This video has yellow lenses.

With the link it'd be better I guess.
youtu.be/A0YU-WqvvbY

I want to paint up a small Dark-Mech Force to Play alongside my Emperors Children.

Im unsure about what colour scheme to go for, I want something that doesnt look exactly like the Marines but is "related" in a sense, Thinking about going with Lilac Robes with Brass Metallics, and a tertiary Colour Im unsure about.

Maybe White Robes like Metalica but with Purple/Gold instead of Red?

thoughts?

The sword looks okay.
The glow doesn't make much sense. If the model is painted like it is in daylight then the source needs to be extremely bright to have much chance of making anything glow. In particular think about how light is additive, your light source is darker than the rest of the model an it's glow is about the same brightness so it shouldn't really be visible.

So I'm starting my USAiradna Army and I've got the color scheme mapped out on the pants and the shirt. However I'm not sure what I should do for the armor. Any ideas? I thought of white but I thought that might stick out of a a bit much. I'm trying to go for an urban camo look.

Looks very sideways. Like the other guy said, the sword could be a bit more subtle. The glow is way over the top.

Making a fist, and crushing his enemies soul in it.
Like this
magic.wizards.com/sites/mtg/files/image_legacy_migration/images/magic/daily/arcana/1094_cancel_ALA.jpg
but with more muscle.

Naval grey.

Flaming Tzeentch feathered arm? A beaked tentacle? Arm covered in eyes or ringed with piercings in patterns?

Does it need a weapon? What is the model doing? You could go for a simple pointing arm.

You da boss!
That guy paints the lenses with the yellow getting brighter towards the front center while Duncan makes a line by the bottom of the lens. Can't decide which I prefer, you?
And would painting each layer slightly brighter look weird? I want them lenses to glow a bit more

>naval grey
Not sure what color that is. Do you have an example?

>tinyurl com/naval-grey-user

Anyone recognize these heads?

from puppetswar I think

That looks like the exact same color as the vests

Too thick, apparently. Hadn't primed white before, and was using Tamiya fine white surface primer on some minis. Went on so thin that I kept giving it extra coats without realizing I had plenty already.

Now it developed a nice surface that is too slick for paint to adhere to, and I'm stuck trying to figure out how to strip it off without turning my mi is into a hissing pile of ooze. Doesn't help that they are some weird type of plastic, so I'm not entirely sure how they will react to stronger things that are safe for harder plastics.

almost looks like the dreamforge eisenkern

puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=190

not very much at all. It's for the paint to stick to, that's it.

For anyone with the chinese compressor that has a 3L tank. Assuming the tank has filled up how long blasting at about 30 PSI should you get before the auto-start kicks back in?

Seems short to me, like 6 seconds. Is this normal?

It's the color grey that the navy paints their boats in. Here are several flavors.

>chinese
>expecting it to work

Eeeeeeeh, sounds like it's losing pressure somewhere.

I like the idea of Tzeentch mutation
Found some Pink Horror arms, he'll have two.
One will use the Punch Claw from the Exalted Deathbringer
The other...holding a scroll? maybe a book

but when full it's been sat there for literally hours without losing pressure.

Tarot cards would be cool, no idea where you'd get those.

Not the tank, the pressure transfer mechanism. Blow out some air, see if you feel any come out where there shouldn't be any. Could be shitty seals anywhere along the line.

cool I'll check

Oh I like Tarot cards, I can just cut some tiny rectangles and stack them
Thanks

They'd make a cool base decoration too, scattering some around where he's holding the deck.

>Oh I like Tarot cards, I can just cut some tiny rectangles and stack them

What colour you thinking of painting him? Hermit Purple? Hierophant Green?

Currently working on my 2nd bloat drone. After my first game decided to go for a squad of three for fast flank attacks. These guys are insane. Gonna get the new plastic box for a heavy blight launcher.

You probably don't realise but you really subtract from the game with your laziness. I don't think I've ever played against an army that is fully painted outside of my own house.

There are too many people like you out there. Learn to paint.

Why would you even get into warhammer if you don't like painting? Video games exist.

Planning on purple
My Tzaangors are split between red and blue atm

Model painting newfag here, Im working under a tight budget and I am wondering if mixing together paints to make different colors is something that can be done or if I should get it out of my head.
Mainly blue + red to make purple.

His method is probably easier.

A way to make the lenses glow is to apply just a tiny bit of gloss varnish or Ardcoat on it. Careful not to overload your brush however.

>Model painting newfag here, Im working under a tight budget and I am wondering if mixing together paints to make different colors is something that can be done or if I should get it out of my head.
>Mainly blue + red to make purple.

Absolutely, although I am concerned you may be going about this wrong by starting with cheap paints (right side of pic related) if you can't afford just one or two more pots/bottles.

Keep in mind that once you mix a couple of paints together, it's virtually impossible to get that exact same colour ratio again. If you're planning to do this for a large model, or for several models with a uniform paint scheme, you would do well to mix up a bunch of that colour in advance... which will probably deplete your blue and red supply - hence my suggestion that it might be more economical to stretch and buy one or two more of what you really need.

You probably won't be able to male ANY color you want, since it will be limited to an extent by your starting colors' properties, but it is something that can produce good results, and is very useful experience for later on once you improve and need to mix your own colors rather than relying on pre-mades.

Keep a recipe book for your mixes and proportions so that you can consistently recreate colors that you like. It hurts to get a good result, having to take a break, and coming back to forget how to match your previous work.

These are the paints I am going to work with.

The official Citadel paints I can only get over here in the big pack that is way out of my price range, so instead I bought model paints used for WW2 models, since I saw the manufacturer did some W40K sets aswell. I am painting just some basic marines models, but I want to plan things out before I begin.

>These are the paints I am going to work with.

Are those the Revell Aqua Color, or their enamel paints? I recognize the logo, but the bottles don't look familiar to me.

If they're enamel ... painting with those is going to be a challenge, as they are not water-soluble. A lot of the techniques we rely on here in WIP assume you'll be able to mix and thin with water or acrylic medium.

Oh man, you're giving my GSC warband a run for it's money with that walker and theguy with the flamer/cacophoni head. Great stuff.

If those are enamel paints I'd recommend strongly against using them.
They are a lot thicker and a real pain to strip if you want a do over.
Some 20 years ago my brother used them to paint his first 40k figures. You can get okay results, but the water based acrylics are so much easier to use.

New Arrivals turned up today loads of MDF laser cut terrain it's quite nice and for some reason just smells satisfying

Enamel paints, damn. Ill manage somehow, even if the model may end up painted pretty rough.

tightened up some nuts but didn't really notice anything. How long should you realistically get between the tank needing to refill?

Good to know, I will use them for now to paint the three figures I have, but I am planning to get the Citadel colors later down the line once I have a proper army, or just figures to display.

I wouldn't risk it dude, Revell enamels are really difficult to work with, especially for a newbie like you, And enamel paint is almost impossible to remove without damaging the plastic itself

Where do you live?

Considering the paints cost me more then the figures themselves, it will be an experiment. The only alternative I have is to save up for the next month or so to get new paints.
Slovakia

What this guy said. I've tried to use enamel paints before, and ended up with an incredibly shitty looking marine that can never be salvaged.

Try to hunt down some vallejo, army painter, citadel, reaper paints, or any other acrylic based paint before resorting to enamel.

Pozdrav z Bratislavy
But unless you live outside of our Capital, you can get Official Citadel paints, i am not sure where did you get, that you can only buy a big pack of citadel paints.
municak v poluse ich ma osobytne

and vallejo paints as well, but those are sold in a shop called JR-line

Well, shit. I checked Brloh first, and they only had them in the big box for 30 euro. Didnt even think about checking out an army shop for them. The best part is, ja som tie farby kupil v poluse
Atleast I now know what to do

That's a nice-looking model there, user. What chapter are you going to paint him?

i noticed you had 2 metallics, either buy those from Revell Acrylics or official Citadel stuff, Vallejo metallics are really awful

In the colors of my first found love for the game

I'm just starting with mini painting and have encountered a problem (?).

I used Dupli-color universal primer for a priming test. 6 hrs after priming I can scrach the primer off. Is it supposed to resist scratches?

Potential causes:
-the priming can says universal acrylic primer but does not say it is for plastics (wood, metal, alu, glass and rocks are stated) It contains Acetone and n-butilacetate.
-I was spraying a very old model (sitting in a box for 10+ years)
-It was raining outside and fairly cold

Help me please

Army wip

I really like that glow on the gun from the trinket! nice painting user!

>Is it supposed to resist scratches?
within reason. If you scratch the model with a fingernail it should take some work to get through though.
>Potential causes:
>-the priming can says universal acrylic primer but does not say it is for plastics (wood, metal, alu, glass and rocks are stated) It contains Acetone and n-butilacetate.
Could be it, but acetone is a solvent that, assuming it's in the paint should form a chemical bond with the plastic underneath. Could be that it evaporated before it landed on the model maybe?
>-It was raining outside and fairly cold
Considering this it probably wasn't temperature though, so maybe you sprayed from too far away? About a foot or 30cm should be right.
Humidity can mess with the paint, but if the paintcoat is smooth otherwise that doesn't sound like the cause either.
>-I was spraying a very old model (sitting in a box for 10+ years)
Did you clean those models? Dust, mold release or even oil from your skin from excessive handling can cause issues. A bath in warm water with detergent and a light scrub is a good idea usually, especially for metal models.

Extreme cold or geat is when temperature starts to cause trouble, but the high humidity might have been a contributing factor. Also, did you clean the mini with warm soapy water before priming it? If the mini was very old, perhaps some oils were leeching out of the plastic and prevented the primer from forming a proper bond?

Generally aim for humidity under 50% for best results, shake the hell out of your can if using a spray primer, and male sure to wash and dry mjnis before priming so that you have a good, clean surface for the primer to adhere to.

>It's a Terminator with a very basic paintjob photographed in a hastily cobbled together lightbox
What do you think of him wip

I think it's a perfectly ok very basic paintjob of a terminator covered in dust

Thank you user.

BA fag from yesterday . I didn't want to toss a resin model that I bought because I fucked up the highlughts, so I tried to fix it.

Ayup lads, it's me again. Gonna do a triple-post today. First up is the final choices for my Chaos Terminators. These are rough as hell at the moment and are going to require a lot of work, but the look of Deathwing Terminators is just too nice to pass up.

Shit, I've wanted to paint one of these since the first time I laid eyes on one. Sadly, I haven't the confidence in my own abilty to do it justice yet.

Anyway, looks pretty slick so far user, keep it up!

Second is the absolute STATE of the workspace as I try to hammer out ideas for Armies on Parade. I'll have to put some larger models out to pasture, unfortunately.

An improvement. You pick things up fast. Keep learning and you will be good. As suggested previously, just watch video tutorials such as duncans on youtube for tips. Currently you need to fix the eye lenses with wash and layer or white spot and glaze. Gold needss a wash of fleshsshade or agrax followed by a highlight with gryphon citadel dry or the same gold edge highlighted on after the wash

Has anyone else have terrible luck with army painter paints?
Even after shaking them for a while they still end up super runny.