/WIP/ Thread

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

Other urls found in this thread:

youtu.be/GPE2kNSHe8M
youtu.be/GAMrMKo0riU
youtube.com/watch?v=SDz8eWOw22U
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Didn't see a thread up. That's awfully heretical.

Pan-O Update

Got my first Fusilier done tonight, not my best work but it'll do for a guy who's job it is to hide and give me an order token from what I understand.

2/3

I hate painting eyes so I don't even bother unless it's a model I'm willing to spent hours touching up.

Looks good enough from a distance anyway.

3/3

I love how easy it is to make the backpacks and pants look good.

What's everyone else working on tonight?

Nade a bit of progress on the grav gun, still got lots to do but I think it's better than it was the other day.

I'm looking for cheap alternative cultists for my iron warriors, both the CC and shooty type. I want to mostly keep it from the GW range, but 3rd party head swaps are fine. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? I was thinking of just getting guardsmen, shaving off the aquillas, and painting them in black fatigues and silver armor.

Anyone else working on Armies on Parade?

youtu.be/GPE2kNSHe8M

GSC might look pretty decent and with with the industrial look that iron warriors have going on, shouldn't be that hard to stick to the more human looking parts and clean off a few nid icons.

Repostan Barbarbian from last thread since nobody responded

looking nice, lighting is cool. how much of a bitch is it going to be to transport though?

looks ok, the photo isn't doing it any favours though.

Your photo has muted all the colour. Adjust the white balance.

This is my second attempt at the photo, I don't normally have this much trouble with it.

On the right we have the nervous attempt at priming i undertook

On the left we have my first time painting with white

How did I go?

Made my first attempt at using water effects and I think it looks decent. I'm about where I want to be in terms of transparency, but would like it a tad greener. Once it spends a few more days curing I'm going to see if I can cut it to remove the meniscus.

Open it in an image editor and adjust the white balance.

Most of the time the software's AutoFix or AutoTone or whatever they call it will do it for you.

My lamps are all incandescent but if you set your camera app to account for it and then do a quick adjustment in photoshop you can get them the way they're supposed to look.

This is one I forgot to adjust the balance on.

looking rad man I dig it

And here's a shot in the same conditions with the proper adjustments.

Fair warning, the area where you cut the meniscus will probably be matte or less reflective. Also, make sure the knife is sharp. I probably haven't worked with whatever that is but epoxies tend to have similar properties once they've cured.

This is a good thing to point out, but you can fix it with some gloss varnish for the most part.

Is this better?

A lot better! He looks really good without everything being stained the same tone.

His hair could use a bit of a highlight and maybe the dents on his metal shoulder pad, but other than those all the details are picked out nicely.

I like that his six pack is obvious and the bone came out nice. I'm also a big fan of the subtle but effective base that's colder colours to contrast his warm colours.

Thanks, I highlighted the hair with doombull brown but it's hard to see so I might hit it up with another highlight, the metals as well.
Also I always preferred simple bases to the overelaborate ones a lot of people tend to make.

It's been like a week. Bless you.

How did you clean the holes in the spearhead on that Reaper skeleton? Mine look like shit, mostly. How did you clean mold lines on Reaper minis in general?

painted a flame cannon for my dwarf army. bit of a basic rushjob, but im just really painting it as a break from my other, more focus-requiring jobs.

Tried to make the veins more interesting looking and also fucking phone camera sucks dick so the contrast is all kinds of fucked honestly

I've been posting stuff every night but last, if you missed it, here's what else I got done.

Are you working with Bones or the Metal? Cuz I only buy metal from Reaper, with the exception of my huge Skeleton Giant.

Honestly in either case I just use my hobby knife. My secret technique though is to pop out my airbrush and hit the models with a VERY light dusting of primer after I think I've cleaned all the mold lines. This'll make any that I missed pop up.

Normally I take a better picture than this but it's hard to get the angle right to show something that's wrong if you know what I mean.

This is from my batch of Space Marine Scout rescues, he had a terrible paint job that I mostly stripped, then I dusted him with primer to see what mold lines the original owner missed (all of them).

Always good to pump something out that doesn't take much effort to keep the flow going even if you don't feel like labouring over something for hours.

Lately for me that's either been a space marine scout or working on my trees.

it gives you a nice little boost to put a model on a shelf and go 'there, done'.
thats a crisp yellow, nicely done.

i've nearly finished this fort, too. another quick job, this time because it's terrain.

That's a pretty sweet watchtower.

Is that hirst arts pieces or some kind of kit?

a polish company called Mini Monsters. they do some neat terrain, another piece i got is a little fortified dwarf hill with room for a cannon and crew

...

I guess I was referring to the Bones. I thought Reaper Bones were just the models, not including the flexible material. I've never seen metal Reapers before. Not in any game shop in my city.

The bones material is hard to get mold lines off of.

With the big guy I did I basically had to put a brand new blade into my knife and work the mold lines like you would peel a potato. A sort of slice/scrape towards yourself kinda cut, without digging too far into the material. It was awful and I hate the material, but the cost of the models is so much lower that I get why they sell so well.

I prefer metal from Reaper because the Bones models lose some definition, plus I just have a thing for metal models.

This it the big dude that I bought in the Bones material because he was like $10 versus $40 for the metal version. I'm probably going to get the alternate version of him in metal though.

>The bones material is hard to get mold lines off of.
Is it anything like the stuff Dust infantry are made out of? A rubbery sort of plastic, very yielding but thick to cut? Because that sounds like the same fresh hell I went through my Germans.

Trying to get that kind of mold lines off of cloth detail may have driven me to violence once or twice. The vehicles are harder plastic, thankfully.

I've never owned Dust models, but that sounds about right.

one time i tried to clip a Krieg torso off it's sprue and the resin sent a crack the entire length of the poor guys greatcoat

What's the model in the right made of

First time posting a picture straight from my phone, usually I use actual software to fix it. Here's hoping it isn't fucked up.

Working on a couple terrain pieces for my Frostgrave board. I envisioned this as some sort of summoning platform or something similar. Besides snow I think I'm going to put some doodads on it. Maybe some sort of ruined altar or gateway. I'd appreciate any ideas or examples.

Got to neaten up the inner barrels but i've got to a point where i'm actually happy with the gun now

/wip/ on my primaris librarian , decided to try an osl effect from his outstretched hand and work with some colors I haven't tried yet. What do you guys think?

1/3

(Ryza tech priest guy) Back again, this time I tried to do a base without texture paint, thoughts?
I might actually start using official stuff from citadel since the surface is too flat

Aaand I forgot the picture

You've nailed it this time. It both stands out but also fits well with the rest of the model.

2/3

I think the Glow is not bad, but I would suggest doing it with a small brush and just airbrush it, since the transition is not great if you just paint it regularly

3/3

Honestly it looks more like a cookie than ground, could just be because it's round and featureless at the moment though.
When you're doing OSL it's important to consider the direction and intensity of the light. If it's eminating from his palm then it wouldn't be lighting up his face nearly as much, and the top of the arm wouldn't have any at all.

Yes, the thing is Instead of crackle paste I brought 2 step crackle *varnish* (basically thinned down version so as you might imagine doesn't stick to very flat surfaces and tends to leak everywhere) that's why it's so flat and boring

I imagined it as his entire hand was glowing and wanted to see how the effect panned out

I do agree that you are right about considering direction more carefully

I usually airbrush but my lgs is doing a "paintbrush only" competition, so I decided to try technical effects (even though I never osl) to get me some style points

chinacast

what skeleton models are these?

I liked it more before mate, subtle is better!

Duncan pulling some shit here
youtu.be/GAMrMKo0riU

my first attempt at a wierd boi, what do you say homs, yei or nai

>Get a set of W&N Series 7s for my birthday
>Use them for the first time today (just doing the shading on some poxwalker skin)
>MFW
>Paint the rest of the fucking aeldari

Tried recreating a complex pro scheme tonight and failed miserably boys. I still love what I got fresh from the wash though. Meet the newest member of the 1st urban pacification division.

Yeah man, the first time I used W&N was like a revelation, worth every penny.

These pearly whites certainly don't lie.

Give it to me straight doc, how bad does it look so far?

Now in a sane man's resolution, with [SEVERAL] percent added contrast!

Are the painting guides available to buy on the AoS app worth it? I am looking to paint some chaos warriors in the colours and theme of Nurgle, and I saw that you could buy a guide on the app

I really should get started, I am just doing a simple toxic swamp with a river and a citadel wood to Parade my Nurgle stuff with.

Give him a name user, roll 2d100 and I will see what you got from the Only War name table

Do quality brushes actually make that much of a difference? I've just used the same three 1-2 dollar brushes for the last two years.

Tell me the truth, WIP, do you think this is too much gore?

>World Eater
>Too much gore

Think this would work on infantry? Trying to figure out how to pain the Khorne army I'm putting together.

youtube.com/watch?v=SDz8eWOw22U

Australian/10

Nope, I already tried it and for some reason it literally only works on bikes. Did the exact same paintjob on my berserkers and they came out blue.

Can confirm, tried it on my chaos lord and now he's a purple and silver swirl

Yeah man it's like jerking off but instead of using your hand you've got some magic Japanese sex toy

I am almost always of the opinion that less is more, but I think that looks just right. Khorne is pleased.

Well shit, I better figure something else out, wouldn't want people mistaking them for Tzeentch or Slaanesh.

Rolled 6 (1d6)

Rollan for which marines I should paint next in my renegade squad

1 = Steel Brethren
2 = Damned Company of Lord Caustos
3 = Nurgle dude
4 = TS dude
5 = The Pyre
6 = Morrowind Ordinator marine

O shit, Nerevarines watch out!

Guys I need a good mini of a goliath/big guy samurai without being an ogrish monster. I'm thinking of pic related since he looks pretty big. Are there any alternatives? I don't mind kitbashing from multiple kits.

best gloss varnish for airbrush?

They're from Reaper. Sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.

Vallejo Gloss Varnish

77 and 76

My first model, pretty happy with it any suggestions for how I can make the whip look a bit better and what base to go for would be appreciated!

>Vorgen Torian

since both numbers ended up on the same row I chose from two different imperial version, first name is from low gothic and his last name is archaic

Another angle

Early stages of what I'm going to try to make look like a Ziggurat carved from one piece of stone.

Got the basic layout done, just waiting for glue to dry while I'm in the salt mines today. Then I'm going to cover it all in wall filler and put some texture into it, make it look more like stone than foam.

Perfect for a semi secretive regimemt responsible for putting down rebellions and traitor guard specialized in city fighting

Second attempt with airbrush, got a nice color fade this time, starting to go through with a wash pass now

Even Pappa Nurgle takes care to prevent tooth decay.

How would you achieve that shade of gold on the mantis warriors chest in pic related? I was thinking general retributer and fleshshade, but it's a bit too dark for that I think.

Use Screaming Bell or Hasnut Copper or similar colours. Brass and Copper are basically just dark gold.

I've got vallejo brassy brass. Probably will work

I actually mix brassy brass with old gold to get my muted darker golds. So pure brassy brass will look even darker, should do nicely.

Nice. Thanks for the help user.

Need some help with patterns, /wip/.

I've got a squad of crusaders coming in and I want to draw attention away from the fact that the model k my comes in two poses.

I think the way to do this is by giving them all unique robe patterns (pic related), but I have no idea what those patterns on the hem of the robe are called.

Any examples besides 'checkerboard' that can be done with a brush or at least a name I can properly Google are appreciated.

Yeah, that's too much imo.

Could you post a better picture?

I spilled some superglue on my trousers. Does it go away in the washing machine? Or do I need to scrub it with something else?

Buy some solvent, most glue makers make solvents for their glues. If your brand doesn't, most cyanoacrylates are basically the same so some other brand's would probably do the trick.

This took me 20 seconds in Pixlr to make this not look terrible. Please edit your photos people.