WIP - Work In Progress General

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>This planet is ours, witch!
youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

>Previous Thread(s):

Other urls found in this thread:

momminiaturas.com/miniaturas-fantasia/orcos/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

12/20.

Now if i could only make the same kind of progress on my Master's Thesis...

Reposting for hope

Somewhere out there is a diorama of this death korps heavy flamer team with gouts of fire enveloping a tyranid I think.

Does anyone have apicture of it? I need it for a reference.

Get on that shit, Sir. You can do it. Finished mine last Summer. The minis will still be waiting.
I love what you have been doing with these Berserkers though. You handle the gore really well, and overall the conversions look amazing.

So uh... Is this tabletop acceptable?

First time painting since 3rd ed

Looks great to me my man.

Looks good

This is more "army in progress" I guess. Nearly have 1000 points of Beastclaw Raiders done, planning to build 1x Thundertusk Beastriders this weekend to finish it off. Finished these guys over the last few days, Frostlord on Stonehorn in the background.

Reposting this guy. Model is meh, but the price was 5€, so I cant really complain. C&C?

Don't know what's going on with the axe, but it looks gud.

...

Model looks neat, what is it?

Axe gives me a kinda styraphoam feel. Not sure why, may be how light it is combined with the texture. Other than that it looks nice.

It is, but if you gave it a bit of contrast by making some of the areas brighter it'll be even better. Very neat though

Thanks man. If everything works according to plan, the first draft will be done in nine days, after that it's only proofreading. So it's almost finished. Finally.

momminiaturas.com/miniaturas-fantasia/orcos/
Pretty good company for practice models I have found.

anyone from uk ordered from warcolours? How long does this shit take?

Not at nids but this could be helpful

>So uh... Is this tabletop acceptable?

You may get the stink-eye for the unfinished base, but they should get over it. Paint job is perfectly fine!

We don't put our best guys on the flamethrower.

Anybody else prefer to play against a 5/10 paintjob army fully based, than a 7/10 with no bases done at all?

Custodians with some heavy backup. I fucking hate using metallic paints, but I love the results.

Derp.

>Anybody else prefer to play against a 5/10 paintjob army fully based, than a 7/10 with no bases done at all?

I don't know that I'd have a preference, personally - the case you cite is "6 of one, half-dozen of da uvva" to me - but any WAACfag who shows up with a completely unpainted flavour-of-the-week army (imagine pic related, but with four more Leman Russ tanks) deserves whatever scorn is heaped upon him.

Reposting from last thread. Its my first attempt at airbrushing. How did I do?

Tried doing two thin coats of that boat varnish I got on the stucco. Does it look like a murky jungle river/stream?

the water looks good, I think if you're going for a jungle look you need even more leaf litter on the base though

Looks good. Mayje add some leafs and roots to base?

Why blue? It is supposed to be shadows? The application seems correct but the color doesnt make much sense imo

White looks pretty smooth. But if you're trying to do a shading effect with that blue, it really doesn't work at all. Tbh it would look better if you would trade the blue streaks for some weathering.

Yeah I'm taking it slow on the bases. I got various other types lined up like in pic related. twigs, moss, clump foliage, leaf scatter, rocks and stream all spread around the bases. I figure the grunts are meant to be fielded as big units so as long as they look coherent together. The singular units like HQs need to have their own placement, so to speak.

I'm going to hunt down some teeny tiny real flowers and/or plastic leaves n shit to put on a few of their bases.

I’m not too fussed, as long as the guys themselves are painted, plain black bases are fine.

Reposting finished venom

That osl is great, how did you achieve it? Mine always looks garish and stark rather than natural

I think the skintone is a bit "healthy" looking for a dark eldar but the model still looks good

Looks like you're trying to preshade without knowing how. Go along all the panel lines with black, then overcoat lightly with the white.

Looks like some smart overbrushing.

Necromancer Warband Update

Finished the Night Spectre (sans snow on base).

Probably going to do Worm Dude or Evil Warrior next, don't know which yet.

Does this company shit US?

- Shipping to America from 13€.
Like it says on the front page, so yes.

I literally said the words "Oh wow!" aloud.
Very nice OSL. Great balance.

Overbrushing? Can't say I'm familiar with the technique

Waiting on the LEDs.

It's basically drybrushing with more paint on the brush.

Normally with drybrushing you want to just pick the highest points, with overbrushing you've got a bit more paint and apply a bit more pressure so that you also get parts that are less raised, but with less paint.

Hope that made sense.

So like a heavy drybrush? That's what I'm imagining from your description, almost like you want a very rough basecoat

I dont know how!

It is often referred to as a heavy drybrush yeah. A couple of the professional painters I've talked with like having a specific name for it because the technique has a different intent.

It also makes it sound like their skill toolbox is bigger than it is.

I thought it might look good, even asked the dude teaching me if that would be okay and he said it should look good.

Now that Ive been looking at it for two days it does look quite off. What color should I use the next time? Also didnt know that preshading technique.

I think my red is far... redder now. all three models use a black basecoat and mephiston on top. The most right one uses no other colors, middle one has khorne red under it and cawl has mournfang brown under it. mournfang brown really seems to have made a difference.

Also that servoskull is about to break AGAIN, he was broken in the sprue already.

Just finished up Cortez, anyone got any cc? I need another pair of eyes to spot mistakes

You need to shine some light at him from the front, even with colour balance it's hard to see most of him.

Wow, yeah, the mournfang helped a lot. Gonna be doing that from now on for my chads.

That fur looks like it could do with a drybrush of a lighter shade, and some highlights would make the armour pop. May just be the lighting though.

Oh also you forgot the base.

Redid the bases on my poxwalkers since my last attempt sucked. Thanks for the tips anons.

how is this?

ya base is tomorrow

That was a joke...

I know it's not 40k but I'd really appreciate some feedback.

Finished my first four models, what to work on, what not to do - basically any hint will be helpfull.

I tried to do the eyes, but after having to repaint one of the faces 3rd time I gave up, it's not my level of detail yet.

>I know it's not 40k but
WIP for any and all models, not just GW stuff.
>Finished my first four models
honestly, they look a lot better than my first four models. You are definitely going in a good direction.
The only thing I can really single out here is that the higlights on the blue look a bit rough, like you were using a dry brush or something.
If you add some finishing touches to the bases you'll have a very adequate tabletop standard here.
>I tried to do the eyes, but after having to repaint one of the faces 3rd time I gave up, it's not my level of detail yet.
I always found it better to do the eyes first and then paint the rest of the face around that. Most tutorials tell you to do it the other way around for some reason though.
Maybe give that a try with your next minis.

At least I managed to get all the bases done today, and now for a lot of pictures, in two.
Of the 55 models on the board, 29 are converted. Two of the Cataphractii Terminators only have a headswap, so they don't count. The 20 diaz daemonettes had naturally nothing done to them. Normal Deamonettes got the two breats and most of them different hair. Everything else should be rather visible.

Buddy of mine got his hands on a couple of old metal models (big tyranid, I think it's a carnifex or hive tyrant, and a couple smaller chaos demons) and we have no idea how to glue them. Would the normal plastic glue work, or would he need superglue, or something else?

Also, somebody asked me to upload my stuff to a site where it could be viewed and organized. I never really cared about such sites, is there one where I am not expected to give a shit about the community?

if it's not made of plastic then use superglue.
Plastic glue works by melting the plastic and fusing it together, it will only work on plastic

This is really exciting, user. I hope you can make the deadline in your home country - here in the US, I think AOP is first week of November - and it looks like you have a *ton* of painting to do.

>superglue
this. But big models need to be pinned.

Like said, plastic cement will not work on metal models at all. You need cynoacrylate ("super") glue or something along those lines. Additionally, you may want to pin the metal parts and possibly even need to full some gaps with green stuff (kneadatite). I know in particular the First Edition Tyranid Carnifex ("Screamer-Killer") has a ridiculous gap right across its mouth that looks stupid if you don't fill it before you paint.

I do, but other than disallowing FW, my store manager also decided to do all the armies on parade stuff on the 4th. (Yes they can do that, I even asked GW.)
And yes I have way to much left to do, should have started painting this monday, but other things got in the way, now I'm not even sure if I'll manage to prime everything tomorrow.
Sadly my painting skills are worse than my converting ones, and I have no idea how fast I can move with some of those models.

That's a nice smooth red you got there, user.

>metal models
>Would the normal plastic glue work?

Are you dumb?

these are the first 4 minis you ever painted?

Current Salamander reivers process, went more a much darker tone than normal due them being 'terror troops', any thoughts?

>awaiting inevitable sideways upload

The shade of green is pretty nice, I thnik salamanders look nicer less "Snot green" looking anyway. You've missed some mold lines and the barrells need to be drilled though

I didn't even notice mold lines til you said, cheers. Will a tiny drill bit from a tool kit work?

Any grown person without some sort of mental or physical disability should be able to produce paintjobs of a similar quality to this their first go.

With the wealth of tutorials and high quality supplies available, anything less than something like this is just sad.

It's just basecoats, wash, relayer and a bit of drybrushing.

Not to belittle the work he did, they look good, but being surprised by it is bizarre.

>I didn't even notice mold lines til you said
I know that feeling all too well.
A small drillbit would probably be fine. Personally though I just use a knife for my barrels, make sure it's lined up in the center and gently rotate the blade around

Worm Corpse Dude pre washing.

Things actually worked out really well for this dude. I don't own any pink paints or reds that would brighten to pink very well, but my order from reaper this month came with a Breast Cancer Awareness pink paint (plus a cool Halloween goody bag that had a couple other paints, some candy and a free mini)

I'm hoping the wash over them will dull the pink back enough that it won't look so cartoony

>Will a tiny drill bit from a tool kit work?

Yes. Fitting it to a pin vise will make it even easier. Also, "start" your work by cutting a tiny nick in the end of the barrel with a sharp hobby knife; this will "guide" your drill bit to reduce the likelihood of your ruining the muzzle.

I just tried a new technique for rattlecan priming that a friend recommended, and I am kicking myself for not figuring this out on my own. Stick figures to a pop bottle top, like I already do for brush painting, but then screw that on a pop bottle and hand-hold that while priming. So much quicker than having them on a piece of cardboard and just turning that around. Also much easier to spray them from below mounted on a pop bottle.

Maybe this wouldn't be as good for priming lots of figures at once, but I'm only working with a few models at a time.

Cheers lads

You mean you don't blu-tac 10 models to a stick and prime them all at once?

You mean you don't just hold your models one at a time and hit them from all directions with an airbrush and get a perfect prime every time regardless of weather conditions?

What I have done is something like that, but at a smaller scale, but it got tricky to spray the parts of the models facing each other.

I could use some input on basing for my DG.

I was thinking grey gravel with some dead grass might blend well with most tabletops rather than the mud n snot theme a lot of DG players are using now.

(I know i hit his ankle with the yellow, my brushes are way too shitty to be doing real work with.)

I found this SoB in a lot I got from Craigslist. I really like the basing and color scheme, and what’s painted so far is ~my ability level. Should I finish it? I don’t want to strip it and ruin the sweet basing work, but I also sort of feel odd about continuing where they left off, like I’m stealing their work

You should finish it, that's a cool bit of history for a mini.

>I also sort of feel odd about continuing where they left off, like I’m stealing their work

Ya no-good Deff Skull gitz! Always grubbin' sum uvva ladz 'ard work!

Was painting this guy black.. But thinking it will look too dull. Thoughts?

You could improve it by having a lighter red or orange highlight on the red fuselage.

>started new thread to post something
>goes out for 'one drink'
Sorry if I'm writing weird shit, a bit too drunk

Looking good but lacking a base

Nice bases
Is that cork?

Nice paintjob but model looks like shit imo

I fucking love this
Wanna play flamers just so I could have a reason to try this

I'm happy with anything else than simply primed tho at least a few details are appriciated.

Nice golden boys; first time I see a golden knight desu

That blue just looks out of place. Quality-wise I've no idea tho

Like the other said, nice water but more leaves required
And maybe more 'liquid' dirt? Like more muddy?

Green bush looks really out-of-place

DEldar looks too human in its skin tone imo. Maybe you should do some white strokes with the blade? No idea if I'm making sense but like wear on the blade.
I like the red tho.

Nice transition on them flames

Like the others said, Mournfang really helped

Like the others said, the pelt looks more like rock and it looks like he's standing in the shadows

Welcome to WIP! You don't have to post 40K here, dw about it user.
Too drunk to give any real feedback atm tho

>metal models
>plastic glue
Is this bait?

Green with black pauldrons is always right in my book

This

Can't really say anything until it's washed. As you said it looks kinda cartoony atm

Not American and that's the first time I hear 'pop bottle', had to Google it, thanks
I just stick my models to a piece of wood. Allows you to access below the models as well as any other sides. It also allows you to easily paint many models, just as you'd do on a piece of cardboard.

Well, like I said, doing lots of models at once isn't a big selling point for me, since I only work with a couple at a time. Having a bunch of primed models sitting on the shelf waiting to be painted stresses me out, feels like starting a project and then procrastinating on it.

>Forgot to update before posting

Are you shading the entire model? It looks kinda dirty, maybe try recess shading?
Not sure if you want a base that blends with the model, maybe get something that complements instead?

Base looks good but paintjob is shit imo
Just paint over it, can't get much worse

Maybe dark brown?

Ya gotta minmax tho, how can your OCD not get triggered by not factory working?
I at least try to prime and basecoat five or so models before I start painting them, that way I feel like I waste less paint

Show me your jungle bases please, and perhaps tell how you made them?

I love the face on this dude. so many worms coming out that his jaw has dislocated is pretty rad.

Model is painted with shades and dirty is kinda DGs thing.

But yeah it was done patchily, my painting light is shit so I keps missing how much I'd gotten covered.

It's not that butI doubt most avail themselves of all available resources before putting paint to brush for the first time.

Not even really about all available resources, there're hundreds of "how to paint miniatures" videos on YouTube that in 15-20 minutes go over bascoating, washing, relayering and drybrushing for a highlight to get a decent tabletop quality mini with very little actual skill involved.

If someone is the kind of person that doesn't do any research into a hobby before they dive in I can understand some of the garbage I see across the internet, but even a bare minimum of it and you should be able to make something halfway decent your first go at it.

Pretty much this The way you enter it is also rather important. A friend of mine introduced me to 40k, and with it basic painting techniques. He considered using washes advanced. Since my models compared quite well to the rest of the playgroup, which didn't paint much better, I didn't really borther with improving until I met better painters. While it all seems pretty easy and it is, if you just start out, with no model painting experience, it will seem overwhelming, especially if you wanted to play the game, and others told you it's good enough for them. You might not even look up how to do it, because you were introduced to it the wrong way.

MY DUDES ARE FALLING APART HELP

It also depends what you're aiming for. My friend thinks he's done a good job with his Imperial Fists; he's shaded all over them making them look murky and mustard-y.
I'm new and I still paint better than him, tho I bet I spend more time painting than he does.

sand away old glue and some of the paint to expose plastic, try using a different glue, and try pinning the staff hand.

I have two and a half weeks to finish my Armies on Parade board. I'm not doing anything too fancy so I should be fine. Any people here working on theirs?