WIP

>Having an objective scale is a bad thing

It's never going to be as good as official stuff, but it can get pretty close if you know what you're doing.

It's about time and effort like anything though.

The amount of time, effort, frustration from mistakes and whatnot generally outweighs any potential savings.

Even if everything goes right (which it won't all the time) you're still not going to end up with something as nice because remolding something always loses some detail.

If you're poor just play low model count games like Infinity, Frostgrave, Malifaux and such.

Anyone ever have issues with their primer going from good to bad, being always shiny?
I swear by this stuff, especially the white variant that's better than any other white primer I've used. However the grey I'm currently using is just performing horribly now regardless of levels in humidity and temperature.

That's just one of the swords that came with the Arkanaut Company kit, it's not from any different kit.

>Objective scale
>Based on subjective opinions

I noticed in the past that can start happening with Rustoleum when there's way more propelant in the can than paint. I think that's what it isn't anyway.

When you finish spraying do you hold the can upside down and clear the nozzle? When I still used rattle cans that's what I'd do and I'd hold it for an extra second or two to get rid of some extra propelant.

Maybe give that a go.

you're never going to get the full story of the quality of something with a number, and the person expecting criticism isn't going to learn anything with just a number, and when you give your full opinion in detail then the number becomes pointless because you already expressed your opinion of what the quality is.

That is the initial goal, playing low count miniature games. But what I wanted to do is maybe be able to keep the original model as a keep sake from its inevitable discontinuation 10 years from now.
Also so I don't have to buy multiple boxes just for a few pieces. And if I buy said pieces individually like say from ebay, that shit will add up very fast if I need multiples.
And yeah after seeing youtube videos on making molds and using milliput I've gave it the good ol' Collage try. I've made 2 with varying degrees of failure but hey now I got this experiment/project to keep me interested in something since this is actually kind of neat discovering this.

Wow, the pink tint around the lacerations look amazing. I'm going to steal that!

I had let the can sit having not hobbied for a time and have never cleared the cap. I was never under the assumption something like that should be done honestly.
What do you prime with now? More and more people are utilizing a technical brush on primer, I could be wrong but perhaps that would be optimal for laying a foundation on a larger scale miniature that's pewter/white metal cast with a finish a bit more porous than a plastic or resin casting?

I've honestly given up on spray primer I can never get it to be perfect regardless of how many tutorials I watch through and different brands I try out it always comes out with problems and has my minatures looking terrible one way or another.

Now I just use slightly watered down paint on Imperial primer by citadel, the stuff is fantastic and I swear blind by it.
>can get the nooks and crannies missed by spray primer.
>can use it inside and is not effected by weather Conditions.
>easy to control how much goes on.
>Surprisingly quicker than spray primer as you don't have to bother taping your miniatures to a spray stick.
>10 times cheaper and lasts 10 times longer than spray primer.
>Don't run the risk of dropping miniatures transporting them outside whilst on a spray stick.

Hold on, does that one on the right have a gun?

I mean left, fuck

Presumably, if you thinned this, you could use it with an airbrush couldn't you? Or would thinning it to that level make the primer ineffective? Not really familiar with the exact mechanisms it works on

That looks like the pommel of a blade to me

So, going by the description on the webstore, the only difference between edge paints and layer paints is that the edge paints are a lighter colour?

Well, that would be the crossguard, but yeah I figured that, but I can still have an imagination right?

yea it looked like that to me as well at first glance.

The weapon has the same name as the gladiator that used it, the "scissor" was designed to disarm opponents of their blades or nets.

It's just for reference, autists

If you're going to thin imperial primer for an airbrush you may as well just buy a large bottle of airbrush primer, GW pots are not cost effective at all.

yeah theyre the dry paints but made suitable for layering. generally you use them for extreme highlights unless youre painting a super bright model or something

I airbrush my primer on now. Zero headaches, perfectly applied perfectly thin coat every time. No worrying about weather conditions. Plus airbrushing is just fun.

Yeah. Works well for bits and bases. If you're asking in WIP then you aren't good enough to do whole models.

Specific questions?

Any company sell not-Imperial Guard arms for holding lasguns, but which don't have a stock attached to them?

Daily reminder that models on black bases aren't finished and aren't worth posting.

I also find them awesome for doing plasma coils.

But what if My Dudes are the planetary defence force of the Black Plastic planet?

It's a damn shame, I had an airbrush and compressor but the compressor was sold, "sealed" in box, without the humidity filter/trap so it wouldn't flow after not even 30 seconds of use. Need to get myself a new one. What primer are you brushing?

Pretty much just basing and weathering left here.

if you need a number to quantify the subjective quality of something then maybe you're the one who's autistic

I use all 3 of Vallejo's Surface Primers, Black, Grey and White to get my zenithals done.

Also if you're looking for a good/cheap compressor I recently bought one on Amazon. Previously I'd just been using my huge ass air tool compressor but it was way too loud to be using at night/ever really.

If you search Pro Air Compressor sold by WeberDisplays on Amazon that's what I bought and so far (7-8 weeks of an hour or two use a day) it's been fantastic.

Comes with everything you need including a handy airbrush holder attachment. Also nice and small and wonderfully quiet.

Thats some sexy yellow there user, only thing I'd say the red skull/aquila needs more definition to it, and I'd personally add a white highlight to the plasma coils. Everything else looks great though

I'll have to look into those options, thanks alot for the suggestions. I used to paint alot, for a while (near 15 years) but I dropped everything and sold everything for a really shitty relationship. Hopefully I can get back into the swing and start posting some stuff.

Hopefully nobody remembers how much I spammed this but with an airbrush I think I have a going of it. Just need to order some large scale feathered wings for the 54mm and get to sculpting the details.
Using them for Kings of War which uses unit foot print instead of unit number allowing me to truly paint a picture of the army.

Cool thing about it being footprint as well is you can make more scenic units with terrain features and stuff on them.

RAW minimum model count is more than 50% of what the unit "should" have, but generally two thirds is recommended.

Definitely lets you get creative. I saw a cool horde of Zombies a while back that had a Crypt and a bunch of graves on it with zombies crawling out of the ground and stumbling over headstones.

that list is the real autism

Still basing my p. Horrors

Crisp. I definitely love the Plasma cannon.

Also, posting the revised roll table, with Malevolent instead of Taurans.

It really is my kind of system. Although I'd just as likely use count as and conversions for 40k or fantasy, if I have to grit the bit and play at the local GW I'd be SOL.

Goddamn do I love those crystals

The shadow work is a bit stark in comparison to the rest of the model, maybe tone down the muscle depth? I would also advise against washing the whole basecoat. If you're basing in a color other than black and progress you MUST regress colors like bone to a darker shade of brown, otherwise it lacks depth.

> Bismuth bases

very unique, and looks good as well.

There is an alternative if you can manage very thin line work in the teeth and bone but with bone you generally want imperfections like lines that scale the length denoting age with a bit of a gradient from root to tip.

WIP on my Nurgle Daemon prince, still a newbie to greenstuff but I think it turn out alright.
>inb4 mouldlines
I saw the mouldlines I missed after I took the picture, just throwing it out three

Hey guys question. I bought a starter kit of bushido models, and they are my first metal models.
Is there any specific thing I need to do to prep them for painting like giving them a wash with soap and water before applying primer?

Normally a light soap wash is only for resin.

Make sure they are well dusted before applying the primer however, you don't want to catch hair on your model while priming and painting.

Are you working your greenstuff with water and a flattener/blade tool? It looks a bit chunky admittedly, you'd get alot better results making a "santa suit" gut ball for filler, flatten out a smooth blanket of greenstuff skin with a gaping tear in the center, apply it over the gut ball, tack and smooth the outer edges flush against the plastic using the flat of the scalpel and water then sculpt and apply the entrails hanging from the wound

Using greenstuff isn't difficult at all. It's in the application where you see most problems.

Thank for the input, i indeed shaded the whole model, which gave a result à bit too dark to my taste. Will do differently next time. Also, i have yet to find a good way to paint muscles, i find it a bit hard and i lack experience.

Ok I will think about it more in the future

the good thing about recreating skin is once you've tacked down the edges the mix should be pliable enough to be pulled from the created wound opening showing the work of gravity and movement. With technique you could make rolls, sores, creases and pocks in the fat of the skin. Greenstuff balls applied and fitted into the skin make for good boils while a loose hole with plump embedded larvae add character and a third dimension.

Keep in mind that horrors shouldn't have a more stringy, catachan muscle in nature. They're akin to a slick rubber so muscle definition for the most part is unnecessary. Finishing the creatures with a shiny 'ard coat aside from the outer reaches of teeth and claw do the model as a whole a huge favor especially in contrast of the matte base.

Yeah, I think a fine, sharp white on one edge will finish it well.

Agree on the aquila, I think Iayered over the shade. Ill do some slight shade and maybe a sharper edge highlight.

Thanks!

So really, especially with an ardcoat, you only need to provide a SOLID, THIN base of the desired pink, ONLY extreme highlights and a thin layer of a touch watered down 'ardcoat. The natural lighting does the rest for you.

Park your flyer here.

now all you are missing is an Orca Dropship, some tau banners hanging of the walls and fire warriors on the fortification

One last thing I'd suggest if you're brave is doing some lettering on the banner/parchment below the aquila, but that's just because I personally don't like leaving blank paper (even if it means just doing some scribble)

Sakura's Pigma Micron pens are great for stuff like that, or plotting out check patterns etc., since you can get them as thin as 0.25mm. Only a few quid online as well.

Oh, yeah. I have a micron. I'm fairly terrible at lettering but I've done it before with varied results. Ill wing it and At the worst I'll just paint over it. I was trying to eyeball it if I can fit any words from the fists transfer sheet on there, but it looks a bit small.

How do they look so far?

>mold lines, mold lines everywhere

washed, drybrushed and booring

It's fine to just not do pauldron symbols, right? I have no confidence in being able to apply a transfer and I certainly can't freehand the symbol

I'm currently working out a colour scheme for my kabalite warriors colourised after that of the kabal of the bloodied rose, and I have to say so far I'm not really impressed at the colours I used as I was expecting something subtle but a lot more vibrant and eye Catching but was left with something rather dull and not that of a proper dark elder colour scheme.
If I had to do it again here is what I would change.

>use mephistion red Instead of khonre red as a base for the armour.
>use abbadon black instead of mechanicus standard grey for the Under Armour.
>use a lot more layers and lighter shades of edge highlight instead of the one darker highlight.
>apply a glaze of bloodletter on the finished highlighted red armour to tame it down a little so it won't look like something out of tron.
>apply a reccess shade of nuln oil instead of an all over wash on the armour.
>only use the one layer of wash not two.
>perhaps go brighter with the eyes and make them whiter to stand out.

First off, yes I know they're thicc, they're my first models. With that out of the way, how thick should I do my highlights?
I try and do them around how I've done on the top of the helmets and backpacks but I'm not sure they're thick enough; I've for example highlighted the sergeants right pauldron trim but it doesn't show at all (Fenrisian Grey over Russ Grey). If I do it any thicker I'll practically have 50% surface used for highlighting

Squad leader looks like he just took a pie to the face

Acetone aint nothing to fuck with

Hah yeah Gonna see if I can fix Sgt Fuckface at some point but currently just wanna get to paint some other models, applying what I've learned from the start

Good. First models are first models. To grow as a painter it's always better to be able to call something complete and start a new project to learn on than to stagnate trying to fix errors again and again.

Please tell me that you will actually keep calling him Sgt Fuckface.

Possibly batreps of his profanity riddled encounters in combat

Yeah khorne red gets very dark with a nuln oil wash. I see what you mean about the lack of contrast.

Imo Tron mode highlighting is a good look for delta's.

Thanks user, I'll keep that in mind

I'm sure his grim visage will be the last view many enemies of the Imperium will face
The only question is if his face looks like that because of acid or a plasma gun

you should want to learn how to use decals, especially when collecting marines, so why not start with that model? yes, it might end looking like shit, but you'll improve.

So, how do we salvage the Astraeus?
I propose cutting up the big banks of antigrav gubbins on either side and reattaching them end-to-end like a middle set of tracks, shifting the turret to the center of the tank...
>pic related

One thing I noticed is that you're apparently supposed to make an incision so the decal will fit on the rounded surface of the pauldron (for example, a cut to the middle of the U in the ultramarines symbol), but what if you can't do that because of the shape? Will it just end up being wrinkled on there?

The cutting can generally be avoided if you start using things like "micro sol" and "micro set" from Microscale.
They're liquids that helps soften and set decals respectively, and makes them far easier to work with.
The bottles aren't that expensive and last almost forever.

WIP I need help with edge highlighting. I've tried rolling my brush into a point and even really small size brushes like 5/0 and 10/0 and I either can't get the paint onto the edge or I paint too much on and get thick lines.
Is it an issue with thinning paint? What consistency should I have? Or do I just need to
>git gud

Who manufactures your brush? What paints are you using?

I actually play tau and would sacrifice every poster in this thread for an orca. Best tau super heavy

>tried rolling my brush into a point
Why are you using the end to edge high light user? Use the side.

Thats really cool m8 I'd love to play with that scenery

The thin brushes I got are Royal Majestic but my paints and regular brushes are Citadel, I've got a small layer I was using.
I'll try using the side though thank you.

This. Even the lore of layers recommends this under the radar.

Look at 3:50
youtu.be/_odi1c7ErCg?t=3m50s

Unrelated, I have wet dreams of playing a kill team mission on/ inside a manta with death watch while the manta is involved in a regular 40k game

Hey /WIP/, i'm kinda new to this hobby, been painting for almost a year now, and i have a question.

How the fuck do i paint metal minis? does regular spray primer still work? Does the paint really chip? How do i get it out of the sprue without fucking it up?

Alright anons, when using the citadel spraycans, should one still prime before spraying? Got a can of Leadbelcher to do some Imperial Knights, and was thinking about laying down some primer first, but I don't want it to end up T H I C C

spray primer still works
the paint can chip, so remember to varnish the model when you're done.
A good primer coat also definitely helps.

A suitable metal clipper will be useful for removing the casting tabs and files will be needed to remove any mold-lines.

Finished the core of my pf force.

They'll be a pf in a hive city in a desert world.
I'll have some other factions I'm thinking about integrating in the force:

-Desert nomads, think about techno nomads, that go around in vehicles, similar to mad max (was thinking about getting the elysian thingy as a count in for a chimera with a bit of work. They use respirators,capes and long rifles (akin to quarians maybe?).

-Criminal gangs from the underground, was getting into "the expanse", and I loved the belters aestetic, so was thinking about basing it on that (especially to the OPA, basically a mafia).

-Finally some dudes from the raiders living off the nomads and the skirts of the hive. Think about full mad max, with some fallout aestetic and some other shit.

Thinking about getting them as conscripts, but maybe I should use them as irregulars instead?
Considering using a shit ton of pieces from anvil industries, skiitari set and genestealer neophytes.
Maybe I should also wait for the new necromunda set....

>However the grey I'm currently using is just performing horribly now regardless of levels in humidity and temperature.

Gray Rustoleum Automotive primer was my go-to for many years until I moved to Madison Wisconsin (high humidity) all my last models came out wrecked. Now the only spray primer I use is GW black and Army Painter White. I think the color grey gets wrecked in high humidity

pic related (model finished after being primed in high humidity. I used Army Painter White))

How do you guys organise your materials and models pre-assembly/during assembly? I have a hard on for organisation and storage and I'm looking for some ideas for my new desk.

Please use pictures.

Any good conversion ideas for Iron Hands primaris marines?

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