/WIP/ - Work in Progress

Non-compressed OP edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Last thread

Other urls found in this thread:

nstarmagazine.com/africa_7_1.htm
nstarmagazine.com/africa_3_1.htm
impactminiatures.com/index.php?option=basing
ebay.com/itm/Base-Weight-Beads-1-Basing-20mm-25mm-30mm-Round-Square-Plastic-Bases-Lead-Shot/142075639364?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=41375&meid=a136ed35c8e5456dae212564bf7850e8&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=4&mehot=pp&sd=130889028605&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850#shpCntId
ebay.com/itm/Base-Weight-Beads-1-Basing-20mm-25mm-30mm-Round-Square-Plastic-Bases-Lead-Shot/142075639364
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

What do you all listen to while building and painting?
I usually put on spotify's composer of the week.
Building gaunts today

new thread, so im gonna show this off again, p good guide I bought

I'd like some video in the background but YouTube sucks at recommending new content. A while back I watched Starship Troopers tho.

Today I listened to some Pain of Salvation, though I generally enjoy the silence; painting takes my mind of other things.
Shit that sounds depressed but I have ADHD so y'know, less voices in my head. Kinda like an autistic kind of meditation.

Thanks user, painting looks lovely, I'll save the read for a rainier day

I'm sloowly working on Cawl, I wanted to do him piece by piece, starting on the legs. I missed the paints for the liquid vial on his ass (which I want done before continuing, because I can't paint it without messing up stuff around it) so I started basecoating other stuff.

Generally DnD plays or podcasts.

What happened to the servo skull on the lower body?

it broke... I'll paint it fully before putting it back on; it's too fragile to be painted when connected.

It was a clean snap so it should be okay to hide. I'm considering pinning it somehow as it's bound to break again otherwise.

Podcasts and stand-up comedy usually. Love me some Dave Chappelle. Sometimes one of those 3 hour long ambiance youtubes.

Hey, just about to start painting some models from Shadespire, the Chaos ones.

What I really wanted to go for, was an african type skin tone, but covered in chalk, like the warriors in tarzan (background of attached pic) though not much idea how to get the chalk effect. So, any ideas?

I "watch" someone playing dwarf fortress as of late. There's not much to see (it's dwarf fortress, what do you expect) and he talks about what's going on so it's fun to listen to.

Bit of JRE, it doesn’t require too much concentration to enjoy and they’re so long you can get a shitload painted in the time it takes to listen to a single show.

death grips

White or light grey drybrush? In this case the chalky look of drybrushing actually works in your favor.

Forgot to attach an image, how to paint miniatures so they look like the dude in the bacground

Old Opie and Anthony and 'lil Jimmy shows. Patrice shows too, if possible, although I think I've run through them all at this point.

And I'm still working my way through the two DI sets I snagged for my Minotaurs.

That seems like an obvious solution, will give that a go and see if it gets the result I want (better than my first thought of actually using chalk and then using mat primer to keep it stuck on)

Super thin coats of white over the skin. It will probably look like what people get when they paint white over black paint though

2 plague marines down, 17 more to go

they look nice
but i would use some rust effects and nihilakh oxide to make them look more nurgly

The Northstar Magazine had some good painted examples of that.
If you look at the models at the top here
nstarmagazine.com/africa_7_1.htm
I think it looks like he first did a layer with a really light grey and then went over that with a white. You could experiment with a dry brush and stippling or using a sponge for the application to get more texture too

They also had another painting tutorial, but with a different look.This one is a bit more cartoony. Effective for more selective applications of warpaint
nstarmagazine.com/africa_3_1.htm

I think the key to making this look good is leaving enough of the original skin color show through to make them look like they are wearing warpaint and not just weirdly painted.

Carved up, texture rocked and sprinked sand on my foam rocks.

Just waiting for the PVA to dry on the sand then gonna hit them with the black Mod Podge to basecoat and toughen them up.

What did you use for the bone?

One of my fav minis, and that guide is awesome

do you all drill holes in tau weapons? Burst cannon seems way too small, and had some difficulty in a gun drone

Advice for weighing down hormagaunt bases? I was thinking washers but I can't find any in a size small enough to fit under the base. I've heard of people cutting pennies in half but thats a pain in the dick.

Not finished yet, also failed an highlight on the sergeant !
First squad ever painted, same user from 2 threads.
What do you think of my first time ?

>What do you think of my first time ?
Really well done for a first time, great job!

I don't in mine. I always fuck it up and most tau guns are tiny anyway. last burst cannon i tried to dril I mangled one of the barrels and had to replace it with a tiny plasticard rod. Thankful it came out good.

Great job. Shame you didn't get adventuress with the colour scheme thou.

Got some more agrax today, so I could finish the missing part and drybrushed all the earth, road, stone and tree areas. Noticed I forgot to do the very left set of stairs. After redoing that, I can finally add some green to the board. Afterwards some little details like, spiders, treebranches, dead people accessories, and something I'm forgetting.
I had to thin down two drybrush paints today, they got too dry to get some of them on my brush.

I just put my music playlist on shuffle. The main reason I want music playing is so I have something that reminds me to clean out my brush.

I can't paint that good after 15 years. Well done.

I'll try next time, too scared of fucking up for now. I tried to paint a white line for the teeth on some minis, ended up giving guards with rabbies lel but the holy devlan mud helped me

Zandri dust base, agrax earthshade, reapply Zandri dust then up to ubshabti bone then finally screaming skull. At the base of the bone I just dot in some blood for the blood god so it looks like it's continuously growing out and might fuckin hurt a lot

Thanks my dudes, but I think it's mostly because I spend 3 hours every night. Started 5 days ago, I am quite slow.

>nstarmagazine.com/africa_3_1.htm
Thanks, those are some helpful examples and thoughts

I'd go with heavy drybrush or sponge stippling over normally-painted brown skin, but leave the sweaty or rubbing bits un-whited - armpits and inner thighs, and folds under pectorals or on the stomach, those sorts of areas.

I think you should be able to get 20mm washers.
But I recently came across this
impactminiatures.com/index.php?option=basing
Not the cheapest option, but interesting non the less. Works better for slottas than currency and washers anyway.
I also just saw that some people buy metal beads and just fill the underside of the base with that. Works for slottas too. Not sure which of the two is cheaper though.

Who, please?
I want to like DF, but I haven't the rig or the patience for it at the moment, and this sounds like the perfect balance of 'educational' and zone-out painting background.

Good job user
Maybe drybrush the bases tho? Or at least paint the rim on leftie

Nice job user
Now for the bases

Starting to look swell

Cool solution with the beads.
Any chance to fit a magnet underneath? I'm too new to have tried

I also want to know

Ig user, need to finish all highlights first then the face :^)))) oh god I can't wait to turn those faces into heavily warp-related horrors

>Any chance to fit a magnet underneath? I'm too new to have tried
The ebay listing for the stuff has a pretty exhaustive description. Even mentions the magnet thing

Sorry for the spaghetti link. If ebay has a function for short links like amazon I didn't find it.

ebay.com/itm/Base-Weight-Beads-1-Basing-20mm-25mm-30mm-Round-Square-Plastic-Bases-Lead-Shot/142075639364?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=41375&meid=a136ed35c8e5456dae212564bf7850e8&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=4&mehot=pp&sd=130889028605&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850#shpCntId

If you if you give this a shot let us know how it goes.

Have fun user

Long links often include detail how the page was found, for example search keywords. Look for a 'name' with a '&' after and try removing the rest. As an example:
>ebay.com/itm/Base-Weight-Beads-1-Basing-20mm-25mm-30mm-Round-Square-Plastic-Bases-Lead-Shot/142075639364

As for my question, sorry I wasn't clear.
Meant something more along the lines of 'how big of a magnet can you normally fit under a base?'. Though I must say I am genuinely intrigued by these beads, might give them a go. If I do I'll let you know

I just glue coins.

Did you use actual Agrax Earthshadeon a whole display board?
Jesus christ.
There are perfectly serviceable (especially for terrain) recipes for home-made washes like that that would save you about twenty bucks across something that size.
Luke's APS has an easy enough recipe, but there are a bunch out there.

I like the fishies on your wall, user, real cute.

Converting a necron into some sort of ABC Warrior. Just for shits and giggles really. Are there imperial man sized robots?

>I just glue coins.

I think he's talking about the old metal hormagaunts. The presence of the slotta tab makes the use of coins impractical. If it were just feet-flat-on-the-base, then yeah, coins work pretty well.

>Are there imperial man sized robots?
Men of Iron were a thing one time. Basically the whole Skynet thing and the war against the machines already happened in 40k.

Kind of one of the reason why they prefer Servitors and machines that are plugged into a meat brain somewhere.
But I guess you can always come up with a reason for something like that to exist.

Sweet, thanks for the info!

...

>But I guess you can always come up with a reason for something like that to exist.

At least he's safe from predators.

>Converting a necron into some sort of ABC Warrior.

Or you could, y'know, just *buy* them.

I used self made texture paint, but I did not do something for like this for it. It came down to about one bottle for the whole thing, so 6€, the initial cost for making the wash myself would not really be cheaper, as I have zero of the required material lying around.

I know, this room hasn't been redecorated for quite some time. I'm honestly more surprised they weren't mentioned earlier.

>I'm honestly more surprised they weren't mentioned earlier.

Give da ladz some time. Before too long, somebody is going to show up with blue Space Marines sporting a yellow fish on their shoulder pauldrons as a chapter symbol.

>blue Space Marines sporting a yellow fish

Or yellow Space Marines sporting blue fish, even!

Not sure if you can see anything with this lighting, did the best I could
Which fringe do you prefer? Balthasar Gold or Sycorax Bronze? Golden-y or yellow-y?
Any other tips for fringes?

Anyone got any ideas on how to do good obliterator flesh? Got 4 to do up.

Do you mean the cord/rope?
Imo it would look better in a non-metallic color. You could use the heraldic equivalents for gold and silver, i.e. yellow and white.
Metallic pigment looks odd to me on fabric. Personal preference really.

just superglue a nickel under your base

That looks a lot cooler than the ghetto ass "washer/coin" method.

Yeah, aiguillette it's appearently called
So just yellow? I always picture them sorta shiny

They're not really. At least not the ones I've seen.
But in the end what's most important is that it looks good on your mini with your scheme.

If you like the metallic paints for it use those. As I said, just my personal preference.

>Buying models

I guess if you're just doing the one, the work's not so worth it.
Apparently you can make a litre or two of good enough for government for about $4 - discount store polish, a bit of ink, and a load of deionised (or boiled and re-condensed) water.

Did the fridge lightbox meme die out thaat fast?
Chill that shit, you'll get great lighting.

Bought some EnviroTex Lite to make water bases for my Carcharodons.
Anyone has any experience with it?

Which way is the best in your opinion? Glue the model onto the base and then pour (obviously harder to pour correctly), or pour, then superglue the model in when it's still wet? The 2nd method wont glue as well imo.

In addition, I was thinking of adding some blue/black to the mix, to represent very dark waters. A tiny drop from a dropper bottle should suffice right?

Yeah no I'm not disagreeing, just not sure which colour to choose. Feels like straight yellow might be too matt imo

>Chill that shit, you'll get great lighting.
Just placed two bed lamps next to the model hoping it'd get better results than the kitchen lights, no idea how to improvise better light.
Is buying an actual lightbox expensive as shit? Should I just try and make my own like in OP link?

Why would I wanna buy that?
Wasn't going out of my way to make an ABC Warrior, it's just turning out like one. I'm enjoying my hobby by converting and painting.

Are you making them standing in water? If so, you have no choice but to glue the model on first, then pour the clear water effect around them.

You can tint the clear water blue with your method, but the best way to make deep water is to paint the base itself very dark blue and black.

best way to unbase stuff like this, clip around and exacto the remainder?

Thanks alot dude! Always happy to get tips on how to do nmm. Does anyone have any pdf's from richard grey/daemonrich on patreon? I like the dude but not enough to pay 20€ a month for guides

Like it, I'm out of the hobby a while now but terrain was often my favourite part.

>Why would I wanna buy that?

Long before the Dark Age of Technology, Bryan Ansell founded Citadel Miniatures as a sort of subsidiary or companion company to Games Workshop. After a while, GW co-founders Steve Jackson and Ian Livingstone sold their interests in the company, and Ansell consolidated GW's (and Citadel's) operations to Nottingham. Ansell's family also founded Foundry miniatures, and while working occasionally with Citadel, made mostly historicals (many sculpted by the famous Perry Twins of yore).

They're still around and, in fact, the Ansells are running the company again. They have many of the ancient Citadel molds from the old pre-slotta days. They also have a lot of the 2000 AD properties that Citadel once produced (remember Citi-Block?) such as Judge Dredd, Rogue Trooper, and Strontium Dog.

Oh, yeah - and the ABC Warriors.

So, buying models from Foundry is like buying models from GW back when GW was less about being a global profit-making machine, and more about the games and the models themselves.

You sound like a Communist

Id say so yes

It looks so dated, yet I'd love to see GW get into cheap and affordable terrain like that.

They made a thick game board realm of battle with thick slot fit terrain but the box isn't dirt cheap. If they release that mono block terrain separately it could potentially be very cheap. Moon Base Klaisus

Yeah, as if they were walking in water. Not even ankles deep, but just to make a throwback to them being sharks and all.
Okay, glued on first it is then. I'll just have to be reaaaally careful when pouring. I'll test with unpainted legs before actually going for it on painted models. Wouldn't want to fuck up my babies.

>So, buying models from Foundry is like buying models from GW back when GW was less about being a global profit-making machine, and more about the games and the models themselves.

I should also mention that Foundry's prices are quite reasonable. It dashed my hopes of making any money off this NIB model of 15th-century Czech general Jan Zizka when I discovered you can get the entire Blandford Warriors historical range (all nine models) from Foundry for 14 quid.

>It looks so dated, yet I'd love to see GW get into cheap and affordable terrain like that.

I don't know who's pushing things around at GW these days, but I see a lot of the things I remembered liking in Second Edition show up in 8th. This includes play mats and cardboard buildings; if you buy the First Strike set, it comes with a reversible playmat and the contents tray doubles as a set of three armoured cargo containers.

I got extra lucky: the QC guys missed that *two* playmats had been stuffed into the box I got, so now I have an extra.

>bringing up Husshite
When you think about it Jan Hus was first Bright Wizard.

>foundry

my spartans still waiting on their spears

>When you think about it Jan Hus was first Bright Wizard.

Jan Zizka is renowned for his Empire War Wagons.

Nah, I'll just carry on converting.

the only model with rules more complex than Steam Tank

any idea if their paints are any good?

>I don't know who's pushing things around at GW these days
This handsome motherfucker. Took over after Kirby and pushed hard for cheaper models. Obviously you cant lower prices of existing boxes, so he went for reboxing AoS kits, more dudes for less and the SC boxes, of which many are an absolute steal compared to the models individual prices.
He probably had a hand in many other things, but those are the contributions that we know for sure are from him.

>Foundry's prices are quite reasonable

Not that user but are you kidding me?
Norman Knights 1 is a 3 man unit that costs 12 pounds.
Chaos knights cost 35 pounds for a 10 man multi-part plastic kit.
Not even going to mention the quality difference.
Foundry is as jew as gw is.

If you want affordable and decent minis look at warlord games.

Thanks, all of these tips have been helpful

You can build up the base around the integral base when you glue down sand for basing. Or you could use putty. Results in a small mound the models stand on, but blends in fine otherwise.

For a few minis with bigger integral bases I made hollow bases that I filled up with putty. Only did that for some Reaper stuff with really chunky bases so far though.
For the FG Barbarians you probably won't need that. I got a box of them on my desk too and I'd just blend them into the base via the sand method.

So I am slowly progressing through my tyranids SC box. Thoughts on this one? I had messed up quite a lot with the shades so I had to fix more than I would have wanted, ending up with thick layers from close up, also some things that I eventually didn't bother to fix in fear of screwing even more

Trying to give that not-NMM-but-still-reflective-armour a try.

I also need a half decent camera and tonset my light box up again.

Nail polish ain't cutting it boys any my toothbrush went limp how can I strip it

acetone

A good organic cleaning product like Simple Green, leave it overniht the stuff won't damage the model, tuen on metal it should peel off very easily.

I use break fluid

Fuck that's another trip to the store if
doesn't work the primers being stubborn and refuses to come off easy

Nail polish remover usually has acetone

Here they are all finished. Wash still drying so they look a bit shiny, but for something that I did today during little bits of downtime I think they came out pretty good.

There's something I find inherently fun about slapping a drybrush around and drowning stuff in wash.

Break fluid sucks ass.
While it cleans off stuff very good the smell it produces can knock a horse.
And it will be hard to clean the shit it leaves on your equipment.
Even your mini will smell for a long time even after you cleaned it again and again.