KDM Kingdom Death General

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If it's just the old survivor then it's not a problem. He bigger since it's "survival of the fittest" he survived because he's Veeky Forumser.

>crab spider
But that's a spider crab, right down to the pincers.

You can't fool me, game.

from the previous thread
It may occasionally react with metal minis by causing the surface to turn a bit dark, and give it a very slight rough surface, but only if you leave them uncovered in the solution, and usually for extended periods of time (a week up to several months). This can be primed over and painted over with no discernible impact to the quality of the final appearance.

There have been a few reports throughout the years (literally, a few out of countless testimonials on hobby sites) saying that plastic minis softened up a bit after extended soaks in Simple Green (multiple weeks to months), but by and large it won't do anything to hurt your plastic minis.

I don't paint enough resin minis to know how well it can strip the paint/primer, or how extended exposure to it might affect the resin material, but due to the nature of resin, I'd say an overnight soak shouldn't be dangerous. Extended soaks might risk damaging details when cleaning with a brush due to the resin possibly softening from the soak and being brushed away with scrubbing.

Do we have an estimate on wave 2? Not to be greedy, I know people havent gotten their copies yet, but seeing as wave 2 is just reprints of expansions, I would imagine it shouldn't take too long. Think I remember hearing about holiday time but that's probably wrong by now.

Core is only two months behind schedule and that seemed to be because of last-minute changes, so as long as nothing significant happens to throw W2 off track I'd expect that two month delay to roll over causing them to be rolled out sometime in February.

The picture of victory

thanks for the quality answer, user

My group is about to start the prologue/tutorial tomorrow. What are some tips for not dying in our first fight?

Throw the stone at the start for that sick strength.
Do not have people standing directly in front of the Lion while wounding it.
Pray you don't get Terrifying Roared to death.

man this thing is going to be a giant bitch to paint and I'm not particularly looking forward to it. Did you just eyeball it or use instructions from one of the sites?

>Throw the stone at the start for that sick strength.
This seems like it's a trap.

Somewhat cheaty answer: Tell someone to be brave and throw their stone immediately once you can attack. Then spend your survival point when prompted by the Hit location card.

Less cheaty, more general advise:
>Try and keep 2 survivors in the blind spot each turn, and rotate out who is in it. So if A and B were in the blind spot, next turn try to have C and D in the blind spot. This will help spread damage around more, and limit one player from possibly getting focused to death by luck of the draw. As a bonus, you get a +1 to hit when attacking the lion from its blind spot, so you go from needing a 7+ to hit to a 6+.

>As a follow up, have the others stand to the side of the lion whenever possible so that you don't get steamrolled.

>Don't forget that you can use your survival after rolling on the hit location die. If you can tank it, take the damage. If it's going to risk you getting a severe injury, it's better to use the survival to avoid it.

>When you draw hit locations to try and wound, you can pick the order you attempt to wound them in, and complete them in whatever order seems the least shitty. You don't want it running away and canceling your other attacks, or mowing down your friends in the path of its counter attack if you can avoid it.

>Try not to get too excited about the special attack for the founding stones. You can throw one and not be too gimped, but if EVERYONE throws the stones then you're all needing 8+ to hit, and will be sad and miserable. You will also need to dedicate more resources to replacing weapons afterwards, instead of using them on armor, helpful gear, or developing new technologies.

>If you get resources from crits, keep them on the table. They aren't put back in the deck when you draw after a fight, which helps odds of getting rarer parts.

>Moods in play don't count towards remaining HP. If a mood is in play, and you wound with no more AI cards to move to the wound stack, it dies.

The white lion does not like getting its balls lopped off.

Does anyone?

No, but it also usually doesn't turn them into a murder machine.

My group almost wiped against our 3rd lion because we chopped his testicles off on the first turn

Well, you are likely to build at least one bone weapon to replace the lost founding stone.
Founding stones are rare and valuable, but that early strength is also quite valuable. I like to use it to give your Fist and Tooth user an early edge, and you WANT to get mastery on that ASAP. (It's the most important mastery.)

Since it takes as early as the first nonprologue lion to unlock Age, you can start working towards F&T mastery from the get-go, just carrying a founding stone/whatever backup weapon to do your main damage after getting your single-required-wound to gain the proficiency point each battle. Should you somehow stumble upon a luck or accuracy bonus before your first survivors pick weapon proficiency, you can trade your 1strength survivor with that one for F&T and let the strength go towards a weapon user instead. (It's easier to get strength early game than other stats, so the accuracy or luck will be more valuable for punching.)

instructions. no way in hell would I have been able to find all the right slots for the hands. You could probably build the rest of the model without a guide though, most of the pieces fit together pretty obviously

I was crazy enough to clean each hand of all mold lines and defects, and then dry fit each one, piece by piece, without instructions. I waited to glue them until all were checked, just so I could compare similar fits to find the best possible fit.

Please, save me from the eldritch power of my autism.

I mean, you do you when it comes to cleaning things up, but without a guide it would probably take a literal day or more to figure out where each hand is supposed to go. there's fucking 30 of them, and only maybe 5 of them are obvious. Admittedly because a lot of the connections are so small, you can probably fudge a lot of them into any slot. I'm using plastic glue so a lot of the lines get melted together slightly anyway so I could easily botch the placements a bit but they'd still look organic.

I just finished the Survivors and the Lion and I'm really starting to notice a number of gaps on some of these models. Is this normal or am I just fucking everything up big time?

It's my first time with models so I can't say for sure, but my lion and pheonix have some very visible gaps. I feel like it's just natural with some of the larger pieces. A lot of photos I've seen of other people's lions also have the same gaps, so I would assume it's pretty normal. There are ways to fill them in though.

By contrast, my survivors and smaller guys like the kingsman and hand have very few gaps, though there are definitely a few here and there. They're a lot less noticeable though. One exception is the starting survivor that's standing straight up though, he's got a literal hole on the back of his left arm that looks like something is supposed to be slotted into it. It was literally the first thing I built so maybe I fucked it up somehow.

Kingdom Death minis either fit really cleanly, with just a slight seam from where parts join, or they have some weird fucking gaps (generally an issue for the minis with a billion parts and really weird cuts, like the young survivor, intimacy models, or the Gold Smoke Knight). I can especially see the lion causing trouble around the legs or face, where several pieces fit together, so odd fits will be more obvious if they all don't like up just right.

Do you plan on painting them? If not, milliput might be your best bet, since it is gray and will be a closer match to the plastic's color, and will let you fill any gaps you might have. If you do want to paint, then either milliput or greenstuff will work fine to fill gaps. Just paint over it once it's to your liking and cured.

If you're new to working with minis, then don't beat yourself up over it too much. It's a big fucking game, and the minis aren't the easiest to build compared to others, so you're kind of jumping in the deep end. Just take your time, clean things up a well as you can manage, remember that with glue "less is more," and fill up obvious gaps with hobby sculpting putties as mentioned above.

The entire time leading up to getting my copy I've seen all these photos of beautifully painted minis like this and thinking that despite never being able to do this well, I may eventually get good enough to not destroy them, but all my hope was dashed when I saw how small they actually are in person. I don't understand how it's physically possible to get this much detail onto the hand.

>Just paint over it once it's to your liking and cured.
I suppose I should clarify that if you want to paint your minis, you should give them a wash with warm, lightly soapy water and scrub them gently with an old toothbrush to get rid of any lingering oils/mold release agents/etc. and then prime them when they are fully dry. Then once that has dried (and preferably had time to cure) THEN you can paint.

I have a few gaps that needed filling, especially on the lion. Milliput my dude.

I wouldn't even call that mini extremely well painted.

Just takes time like anything else.

Still learning the game but got a question.

Is the Gold Smoke knight always the biggest, final encounter of the game?

Like with all the expansions and far cooler bigger monsters available, is this tub of lard always the final boss?

Nope

Did you even read the new xpacs you GOOF

Anyone working on updating the TTS mods? If need be I can start scanning cards and stuff. I'm not going to rip open my rulebook though.

If you take the time to read up on techniques, watch how it's done in person or on youtube, and invest in some half-decent supplies, you very well might be able to make it to the higher levels of technical skill. This is a bit "feel good" but I think it helps to see how much you can improve if you stick with it and keep learning.
>arcanepaintworks.com/blog-1/2017/6/1/the-gap

You just need to keep at it, and keep pushing your comfort zone to try new techniques and expand your repertoire.

GSK is the (new) final boss of the Core game. Expansions can change this (especially the alternative campaign modes, and many of the upcoming expansions in development).

The EX final boss of the game is planned to be the Ivory Dragon (the true form of the Satan entity).

no, haven't got any of them, just the core set.

Speaking of expansions, has there been any word from Poots as to whether or not he's going to update the previous kickstarter's expansions?

He isn't.

You need the Gambler's Chest for the new FK stuff I think and you'll need the Campaigns of Death book for the Super Butcher.

>soapy water
Just to clarify because I'm a newb, soap will not affect the models?

They're made of plastic.

Just don't used a wire brush or something ridiculous.

Sorry if my question was dumb, I'm very new and pre ordered so I have some time before it arrives and I'm nervous. Thanks for the answers, friendly and kind anons.

If you have a old toothbrush that's probably the best but even just dipping them in a tray of soapy water and giving them a sponge or cloth down is fine.

Honestly I can just get a toothbrush from the dollar store. If one dollar would break me I would not have bought the game.

But thanks for the clarification.

No. You just need a little bit of soap to help remove release agents, oils from the plastic, and dirt or oils from your hands that may have gotten on when building the mini. A little drop of dish soap or hand soap should work just fine on an old toothbrush (a wirebrush is too harsh and will scratch the plastic up). You don't need to scrub the daylights out of them (and risk something snapping or breaking), but just give a gentle scrub all over. Then be sure to rinse off all the soap residue, and let them dry on a paper towel or dish cloth.

Also, I want to make this known for anyone new to minis: NEVER, EVER use nail polish remover with acetone (or acetone anything) on plastic minis, either to clean them or to try and strip paint. It will damage the plastic, and the more the acetone, the more your plastic minis will look like a 'toon getting dunked in The Dip.

No worries. It's better to be the guy that asks questions on how to properly do something, rather than be the guy that asks how to fix his mistakes. While you're waiting, maybe consider picking up a plastic mini or two from another game, and experimenting on those. You can get used to clipping parts, gluing pieces, cleaning mold lines, washing, and even priming, painting, and stripping paint on them so that you aren't as nervous with the KD stuff.

If you want some additional advice on painting, you can try the /WIP/ threads here, DakkaDakka has some paint help, or you can look on youtube for various tutorials and explanations.

Don't go to /wip/ it's a shithole.

I'm gonna be completely honest, I have zero muscle control. My girlfriend is going to be "hobbying" this game for me, and I'm just passing this info on to her. So thank you very much. She is an artist (not by trade but 100000000x better than me) so she won't fuck these things to hell like I will. In fact, she will be assembling them as my shaky idiot hands can't even handle that.

Either way, thanks a lot for your insight.

I'm the guy who recently said that it's shocking that an irl shitposter's general is not shit, so I know not to trust most parts of Veeky Forums. I'm new to modeling, not to boardgames and not to this site. But thanks for the warning, friend.

Eh, the /wip/ threads are more of a mixed bag, some of the Anons are super helpful and genuinely love the hobby, others are complete assbarrels. It's like the rest of Veeky Forums, really.

Ya but since I have zero artistic ability fuck trying to find good advice, I'll leave that up to the GF who won't be browsing Veeky Forums. But your comment is very true, thanks for chiming in.

Any scans would be helpful.
I think people just took pictures of the rulebook for the first PDF that went out anyways.

So is this game shit?

>can try /wip/
It's not a great community, to be sure, but it does at least have some resources in the OP that should be of some use to help someone just starting out with painting minis. And occasionally someone that actually knows something and is helpful accidentally posts there.

She will want to be sure to thin down her paints when she works on the minis, especially if she already has paints that she can/wants to use. It will look off if it's not thinned down, and would risk obscuring finer details. As general advice, acrylics are probably the best/safest choice of paint, rather than enamels or lacquers.

Reliable brands include Privateer Press' P3 paints (pot design), Reaper's Master Series (dropper bottles), Vallejo's Game/Model Color lines (dropper bottles), and Citadel's paints (more expensive, less paint, dries out faster due to its pot design, but comes in a ton of colors and technical uses). Or she could just use $1 tubes from a hobby store and mix her own colors (being extra sure to thin those down even more than the minis branded ones due to their thickness).

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Ty
Ty
Appreciate the help, anons. Just want to treat this "boutique" game right

Ok so with Survival, when you depart you gain Survival up to your Survival Limit, and can't exceed this limit, so how does a Departing Survivor get any benefit from the +2 Survival from the Paint innovation here?

The settlement survival limit tells you what each character has as a hard cap. If you aren't at the cap when you depart, you are able to gain that up to the cap from various effects. Departing normally doesn't give you survival. You have a running pool of survival that rises and falls, and you need various ways to replace it when it's low. This innovation is one of those ways.

So let's say you return to settlement with 2 survival left over, and the settlement have a limit of 4 survival. If you depart with rawhide boots, you get +1 survival, and if you get the right result when endeavoring at Face Painting you get +2 survival, you will get a total of 3 survival when you depart. However since you already had 2 left over, you max out at the current limit of 4.

This mechanic is also why the new Arrival mechanic is so helpful. Before, you usually only relied on Departure to get insanity or survival boosts, outside of random events. While on the hunt, you could very well be forced to spend a bunch of it before you encountered the monster, or might even have had to have spent it all before then. Now you have ways to have gear or innovations get you survival that you may have lost in the Hunt Phase back at the start of the Showdown Phase.

Thanks user, your explanation was awesome! I hope you're having a fucking great day!

Does anyone have a mega for the cards that you need to use for this game

Someone last thread posted the Philosophy of Death card they were showing off at gencon. Looks interesting. I have to assume that each roll is meant to be a range, (IE, if it shows 1, 2, 6, 10, the ranges are actually 1, 2-5, 6-9, 10).

Wonder what triggers you to go to the next tier? Given the name it could be that each kid has a tier 1 higher than their parents. But some of these tries seem to reference lower level tiers as if they happened to the same survivor.

I never notived that it had a face on top of its shell. I was always too busy eating it and Nightmare Training.

An angry mom lion with its nuts chopped off is a suddenly terrifying fight on what is normally an easy victory.

Part of the stated purpose of the Philosophies of Death was to encourage people to not take the same "high level" survivors out every time. It's also stated in that image as "generational ranking system." So maybe it's partially dependent on how many kids you pump out, or can "convert" to your philosophy? You stand at the top of the pyramid scheme, but later converts get the benefits whatever rank they are in? As in, if you have seven Survivalists, then one gets the benefits of ranks 1-7, another gets the benefits of 1-6, another gets 1-5 and so on until the guy at the bottom who gets only 1? Or maybe everyone except the Wise One gets the benefits up to 6? That would explain why you'd want to keep those higher ranked survivors in the settlement. They get to crank out some super babies.

The "B" under the third rank is intriguing. I'm betting it stands for "branch" and that the Selflessism philosophy allows you to treat levels of Survivialism before the branch, as levels in Selflessism.

Lion has a lot of gaps because it was upsized in the transition to plastic- everything else should fit together very well.

I think that might just mean “Advance to the reverse side of this image”

Another interesting thing: Rank 4 repeats the “branch” of rank 3.

Also, “gain 1 random Knowledge card”. Wonder what that is? Some kind of mini-innovation used in advance mode? IR, Knowledge is to Innovations what Tactics are to Fighting Arts?

Quite the opposite, the game is fun as hell, even before the improvements recently released.

It'll shit in your mouth.

Now, now, shit ends up in your mouth if you choose to put it there. Mostly.

There are more constructive ways to bump the thread than responding to bait y’know. Like posting the best new pinup.

But user, that is the wrong picture! This is best girl!

Is there some online resource to try this shit out? It looks pretty interesting but shelling out 300 bucks, putting it together and painting it is kind of a huge investment.

Looking at it, Rank 1-3 seem to be settlement wide buffs for anyone who adopts a Philosophy, while everything past that limits itself to the person who most represents the philosophy. Only the Wise One can advance past rank 4. This makes sense given that they were described as being like Masteries but for fighting arts. Side A is the specialization and Side B is the mastery.

There is also a brain icon shown next to rank 5, perhaps related to Knowledge in some way. It’s listed like a requirement for the effect below it, so it’s probably shorthand for “If your settlement has at least 9 Knowledge cards.”

Also worth noting is the 0 Population icon in the top right of the front side. Not sure what that represents.

Tabletop Simulator. There’s mods out there for it.

How could so many anons have shit taste?

Vidja witch best witch, also best pin-up

Maybe even with Survivalism telling you to go to Selflessism if there's a Wise One, you can be directed to Survivalism/your philosophy of various ranks by certain events. Maybe the result of defeating certain monsters can give you +2 ranks or something, which is why there's more than one "go to Selflessism" results?

0 Population may just be the required population count needed to start that particular philosophy. Just based on the example we've been shown, we know that a philosophy isn't mutually exclusive.

I can see the slight profile of a relaxed innie nipple in a drawing. I am outraged, mods.

Thanks m'dude

Both of you are sorely mistaken. Puffy vulva is.

What music fits your settlement?
Embrace the dark cannibals:

youtube.com/watch?v=GQA7RQEo-ss

Sunstalker weeaboos, I guess. youtube.com/watch?v=6QvMcQ2Eejo

God killers!!

youtube.com/watch?v=TyPyG6n1dCU

You know that bitch is rank, and probably has a yeast infection.

Things haven't gone well but we keep putting one foot foreword.
youtube.com/watch?v=6Zl5vpy__dQ

>
>3 survivors left
>Couldn't roll above a 3 on the last hunt, Total party kill
>lost the death mask we got on the first hunt because of it
>last 3 intimacies resulted in the couples walking into the darkness
youtube.com/watch?v=P0TzUNti3rY

Has poots said anything about adding stuff to wave 3 or 4?

I made a huge mistake of not buying the campaigns of death expansion during the kickstarter.

>he's going to update the previous kickstarter's expansions?
Yes, in campaigns of death, or the gamblers chest for the FK.

He has multiple times said that if you didn’t add things during the campaign or the first time the pledge manager opened, he can’t make any promises, due to the size of the campaign.

In all likelyhood, since he hasn’t opened up wave 2 yet, he might be sticking to keeping them closed. If he does open it. you might be able to add a few things at/near retail price.

not yet we might get pre orders like core though

I imagine alot of ppl overlooked campaigns of death.

I was unfortunately out of the loop until just now, so sorry if this is an ignorant question. Will the 1.5 update pack be available at any point if you didn't back the kickstarter? I'm not seeing a link for that on the kickstarter page or on the KDM store, but I may not be looking in the right place.

Practicing for when 1.5 arrives. Good enough to be worthy of painting KD minis? Brutal comments welcome

The fact that it came with unique packaging and a custom insert means they dumped money into the ability to mass produce the upgrade pack. It will probably be available in the future.

Not bad. You got technique down it looks like. That said you should find some minis with a lot of exposed skin and practice your skin tones.