What color do I paint my IG/IQ? Thinking of going black and red, but I'm open to ideas. Not really too decided on the theme for the force so far, so I'm open to a lot in terms of paint schemes.
Any ideas? They're going on tundra+snow bases. Maybe gray fatigues and then a drab green armor with white spots?
Mason Perry
FedEx still hasn't dropped off my Shadespire so I find myself with no front and center projects at the moment.
Spent the last couple nights playing Relicblade so tonight I decided to do the second dude in my Space Marine Scout squad from my box of rescues.
Here he is with his base colours hastily blocked in.
Jace White
You should remove the rivets from the chimera, will give it more of a sleek look. Only the best for the inquisition.
As for color,red armour black clothes.
Joshua Cook
reposting, thanks for kind words from last thread
Hudson Lewis
the witch elf(?) heads work really well.
Caleb Robinson
Thin your paints.
Jesus fucking Christ.
Jason Long
Just getting 12 of them done was a pain in the ass.
Parker Gomez
made a little progress, should get him done reasonably soon
Isaiah Howard
WIP, you've probably got the answers to my questions. I'm trying to find some mechas that fit with herioc scale but aren't stupidly expensive, but are still at least semi-convertable. Anyone have any ideas or leads, because right now I've got Tau with heavy kitbashing and that's it.
my friends and I are looking into LANCER and everyone's wanting to make their own mecha, so battlesuit mechs on a heroic scale is the most accurate description I can think of. Going through the OP list right now
Grayson Johnson
Couple of Guardsmen finished up with my attempt at making an ammo box instead of spending as much as a whole other squad to get an upgrade kit from FW
Charles Diaz
And a rocket launcher I'm trying to repose mid reload.
Hudson Sanchez
Why do my 30 year-old pewter figurines have better anatomy than 90% of what's currently on the market?
Matthew Rogers
Black, white, or grey primer? Mostly just do simple 3 color and a wash paint jobs.
Camden Reyes
depends on what colour you're painting, if you want bright then go white if not then go black or grey
Julian James
Is grey an effective 'middle ground' or is it just the worst of both worlds?
Zachary Williams
Ok, depending on how much converting you're interested in don't discount IG Sentinels, AM Dragoons, Kataphrons, or if you have dosh to drop any of Forgeworld's AM automata as good sources of parts, even some ork stuff may have great stuff for arms and legs though I'm guessing the bodies will be a bit ramshackle for your taste.
Definitely look into Infiniti and Warmachine, I don't personally play them so I can't rattle of the kits but both have large exo-suit kind of models.
Don't be afraid to look outside gaming stuff entirely, try hitting up TOY for ideas about Gundam, Armored Core, or other mech kits/figures. Most "heroic" scale vehicles are hideously inconsistent in scale but are probably somewhere between 1:35 and 1:48
Parker Hall
I was just thinking the same, just got a really old RT marine off ebay (the one the 2016 Imperial Space Marine is based off of) and I was surprised that the proportions aren't as retarded as modern ones.
Ryan Murphy
Im almost sort of kind of maybe certain those are Dark Elf Execution heads? Stealing the idea by the way
Brandon Lewis
hahhahahha I'm loving the IG johnny. 10/10
Easton Fisher
What started as minor exaggeration of traits to make them more practical to paint/more noticeable at distance evolved into a stylistic choice. The same trend can be followed in GW's art over the years of marines being 8 heads high to emphasize their size, to be 10 or 12 heads high because the artists is imitating and furthering the exaggeration without really understanding why.
That said I don't think its all bad as far as making weapons/faces/icons and other key details very easy to pick up even from across the board and most of the new stuff feels easier to paint despite the increased density of detail.
Joshua Long
How do you properly spread liquid greenstuff so it'll fill those gaps? Paintbrush? Texture tool? I got two big gaps in my tank and I wanna make sure it'll go alright on there.
Thomas Kelly
Finished my new super loyal completely not a traitor Ultramarine. See? Completely loyal, Ultramarine symbol and all. Looking forward to having him fight in the name of the Imperium!
Still working on the base but this paintjob was so fats and easy. I love it
Dominic Ortiz
the metallic blue is really nice, how'd you do it?
Christian Kelly
Icon is not subtle enough.
Landon Anderson
slighty watered down black imperal primer painted by hand with a quick spray of white directly onto the minature from above once the blacks dry of course. >black areas you cant reach with your brush will look like shadows and not be white. >the areas sprayed from above will simulate sunlight hitting the minature and make them appear more bright and vibrant. >the black areas not reached by by the white will appear darker and gloomier. but by all means it only works on certain models. >spray predominantly white minatures white. >spray predominanty black minatures black. as for black and white well gray I guess.
Jayden Roberts
Oy oy oy!
Jason Nelson
That tutorial I never save. Leadbelcher layered with Runefang Steel, then two coats of Guilliman Blue glaze, then one coat of Waywatcher Green glaze, then one final layer of Guilliman Blue
Shit that's subtle as fuck. Might need to redo mine now
Gabriel Robinson
I wasn't talking about just GW, though. For example, I scored some ancient pewter Shadowrun minis years ago and as some of them are a bit worse for the wear I went shopping for new ones (perhaps with a bit more detail, as as well) only to find that I can't find any-fucking-thing that isn't stylized to a completely retarded degree. I get that there have to be some liberties here and there for the sake of making it intelligible but you have to draw a line somewhere. Even with the potato-tier detail on those minis I still like them more than pretty much anything Reaper makes and that's incredibly disappointing.
Gavin Green
Orkstralians
Lucas Reed
I know some of you people are working on non-GW stuff. Post it! Whether it's Infinity, Warmahordes, or whatever, post it!
James Collins
You chuck it into the garbage, buy some real greenstuff, and full those gaps the right way.
William Butler
This one, user?
Nathan Phillips
Or was it this one, instead?
Easton Brown
This one
Chase Wright
Mate I don't think you understand what really really old GW minis look like.
That grain is on the metal itself. It's horrifying, I know.
Christian Phillips
And here he is finished, fun little way to spend an hour or so tonight.
I miss painting undead though.
Mason Jackson
I got that too. Just push it in and scrape off the excess and hope it sticks?
Jose Gonzalez
needed another engineseer. not super happy with it but its ok.
Jackson Gray
Together with the one I painted a couple weeks ago.
Having these dudes sitting on my desk to paint when I've got nothing else to do is pretty handy, and eventually I'll have all of them done and can use them for Shadow War or something.
Jaxson Brown
Im Sorry you miss the undead broski.
I miss them too.
Henry Smith
Looking nice so far. What chapter?
Sebastian Brown
What is your greatest strength? What is your greatest weakness? What are you trying to learn or improve on?
Levi Lopez
>What is your greatest strength? sculpting >What is your greatest weakness? motivation >What are you trying to learn or improve on? getting shit done
Jack Watson
Was working on this Swarmlord awhile back, finally got around to reposing his legs. Now working on his arms. Any thoughts and/or ideas?
Robert Robinson
...
Camden Diaz
Sword arm biomorph. Not really liking the blade part. I may plasticard out a blade similar to the old metal rectangular one (the same shape as the horn he has on now)
Jonathan Nguyen
Crotch graspers, for grabbing you firmly while he rapes you
Joseph Martin
...
Jack Campbell
looks great man, might apropriate some of those ideas for a nid custom i wanna do eventually.
Logan Roberts
Does anybody have a tutorial for painting oiled-up looking skin? I want to paint some Barbarians that'd make Frazetta proud.
Dominic Long
why not brush on some thinned down gloss varnish at the very end?
Brandon Peterson
I'm mostly talking about the tanned-orangeish skintone.
Jack Bailey
>paint like normal skin >cover miniature in fake tan
Seriously though, Franzetta used bodybuilders as anatomical reference, but I never noticed them looking orange in his paintings.
In any case you basically answered your own question. Just mix some orange into your regular skintones and you should get the fake tan look. Though on a miniature that may just look like you grabbed the wrong paint pot.
Zachary Campbell
So i posted this guy last week (top) asking for feedback.
I retouched the red decreasing the highlight and bonewhite on the grip to make it cleaner. Added some black highlighting which seems a bit strong but it's not so eye catching in a normal daylight. And the obvious - basing + blood effect.
I'm calling him done because I feel like I'm in the spot where further fixing and retouching can bring more harm than good.
I'm moving to the next guy but I'd appreciate to hear out your opinion anons.
Lincoln Perez
Ok, here's a comparison between some newer PMs which are still a little unfinished, versus the DI chaps I did a few months ago.
I'm a little stuck on the weathering issue; I think I went too far with the older ones, but I think the newer ones look a little too clean - though I'm more fond of them. Thoughts?
Do I: A. try and tidy up the old ones, B. dirty up the new ones, C. strip the old ones completely and do them cleanly over again, or D. quit painting forever
Colton White
...
Benjamin Adams
>but I think the newer ones look a little too clean - though I'm more fond of them The whole point is to do what you like. You don't need to add weathering at all. It's just fashionable at the moment. If you like them better with the clean look you 100% should go with that.
Also from what I can tell in the pics it doesn't look like the old minis would look out of place next to the new ones. I'd say as long as it is obvious they are part of the same army you don't have to do anything, but cleaning them up is definitely gonna be easier than repainting them completely. It looks to like you'd basically just have to paint back a few places with the base color of the armor to brighten them up a little.
Joshua Phillips
>buy secondhand dread >appears to be leaning backwards slightly >was connected via plastic glue
Guess I gotta get sawing
Anthony Thomas
I suppose I meant it more in the sense of "I'm not sure I'm happy with the weathering I've done" more than not liking weathering, but I get what you mean
Thanks for the feedback
Nathan Scott
>I'm not sure I'm happy with the weathering I've done" more than not liking weathering So what kind of weathering do you like then? Do you have an example picture or something? Maybe someone can help you figure out how to get there.
Owen Gray
or base it in a way that the lean makes sense.
Isaiah Fisher
is that an intentional Geordi La Forge?
Jose Ortiz
>>is that an intentional Geordi La Forge? Old metal scout my man.
Logan James
how'd you make the Nurgle's Rot at the base seem so liquid-y and glossy? Do you use a gloss varnish after several layers of the thing?
Ethan Barnes
>file name I'm slightly perturbed
Cameron Price
it's my perfect bait image
Hudson Taylor
It works
Jeremiah Kelly
They're sisters of slaughter heads
Jose Taylor
My Zerkers are getting close to being finished.
Personally, i think the older ones look better, so i'd go with B. Then again, i like it dirty.
Owen Ward
More progress. Really like the turbines at the top. Gives a really top heavy and intimidating look to the prince
Eli Diaz
I need for suggestions on how to properly paint my Skittari, and maybe some tips for detailing their robes. I'm sure I messed up on the robes as they aren't very smooth, probably should have smoothed my paints more
Jackson Miller
That's a really nice model, the leather boots don't really work with it though. Have you tried converting them into armor?
Justin Lewis
...
Angel Hughes
I gave that a try in the building state but it really didn't work at all. I'm quite happy with the boots now that they're finished, given that i'm going for a very, very low-tech thing for my zerkers.
Grayson Robinson
From the front it looks alright, but the back. Holy shit.
If you prime black you can easily build up to an even white coat if you do some grey inbetween. You can also paint straight white, but you'll need at least four coats to get even coverage.
Imo the better way to do this would be to prime white.
How do you paint them, any subassemblies? I mean you have to get under their coatsomehow, so Maybe prime the torso etc white and the legs black. Painting black over white is easier than the other way around so you also just prime white altogether and do the face, legs and chest in black before you do anything else.
But to get the back of that minis smooth you probably have to use some fine grade sandpaper. On the upside it looks like you are gonna do fine with the freehand with a bit of practice.
Luis King
Nearly finished my duardin Gunmaster conversion, thoughts?
Ryan Powell
Ultramarines, though I am color blind. Does it look good, user?
David Davis
Pretty good, well done.
Luis Hill
A tophat is what I'm feeling for some odd reason, he looks very elegant
Nolan Ward
The rope on his thigh could do with another brown shade and there's a little bit of skin on the headcowl, easily fixed with some black wash I think.
Kevin Anderson
Get some dirt pigment and make a squad of filthy rad-compromised troops to hide that thick paint. That's the only thing I can think of to save it a little without stripping.
Next time prime white or bone or a light grey?
Adam Turner
I prefer to gloss coat my old metal models because they chip easier and I enjoy the shiny look. I've had mixed luck with Ard Coat. Do you thin it at all? Some of my minis look good, but others turned out with cloudy spots and a bit of a clumpy look.
Eli Phillips
>Old metal scout my man.
I think he's asking if you were deliberately *trying* to make him look like Geordi La Forge. I'd have say it's damn near unavoidable, given the sculpt.
John Robinson
I use panduro myself. It comes in a large bottle, it's cheap and easy to apply. If it's too shiny, throwing on some matte medium of their brand fixes it easily.
Robert Hill
2 THICK coats, given time enough to dry
Henry Hernandez
Back in the day those things were really cool. Some Eldar sculpts have them too.
Jacob Ortiz
I had spray painted the components black and painted each part separate until I glued it together when I thought I had finished. I did use a grey base on top of the black undercoat before applying my white layer (abbadon>celestra grey>ulthuan grey) Also, how do I base coat white? Often when spray painting in white scar it looks awful (pic related) any tips on that?
Charles Carter
>oi, whut a feelin >when yer fightin on da ceeling
Love those looted-armor boyz.
Daniel Johnson
I do have some agrax earthsade, but my model comes out looking worse with the details I wanted to hide becoming far too obvious. Is there a method to shades and pigments?
Nolan Evans
>any tips on that? That kind of looks like the can wasn't shaken enough.
This is seriously important. When the can says shake for several minutes you really need to shake it for several minutes.
If it's super cold where you are and you are working with a can that has already been used a few times it can also help to warm it up a little. It's a pressurized container, so you obviously shouldn't overdo it, but carrying it around in your armpit for a little while can help build up the pressure.
There are also a bunch of other external factors besides temperature when spraying than can influence your results like humidity for example. It's a good idea to take a piece of sprue with your minis and spraycan, so you can just test on that and see how the paint looks before committing to spraying the minis.
Nolan Thompson
Anybody work with ForgeWorld's Elysian infantry models? Thinking of making a custom regiment and cobbling some bits together, but I worry that the Tempestus and Cadian anatomy bits will look too chunky when mixed in the the Elysian ones. Are the Elysian models actually as skinny as they look?
Justin Gray
Yeah, you might have better luck using historial minis. Warlord and Perry stuff should look right next to Elysians. They are basically truescale instead of heroic. Krieg is also closer to truescale, but they are a lot taller than most people.
Depends a bit on what you intend to use though. Unhelmeted head from the GW plastic heads may look a tad to big. If you want to use the hellguns and powerpacks you should be fine. Cadians are fuck huege next to a truescale miniature though, so I'd be careful there.
Victoria miniatures has female arm bits that look right on truescale miniatures, if that is what you are after.
Ryan Taylor
I hope to see some MTO Eldar WIPs here in about a month. Did you pick up any of them?
Angel Mitchell
Emperor's Teeth! I forgot. Is it still going on? I wanted that Bonesinger!
Jack Johnson
I was tempted but I never collected Eldar. And I already have a shitton of 40k models. And WHFB models. And a bunch of models from other systems. And then there is the HF Halloween sale. I'd rather give them my money.
If GW decides to redo some of the Necromunda minis, specifically the Arbites I'll be all over that though.