WIP - Work In Progress General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Previous Thread(s):

Other urls found in this thread:

thearmypainter.com/documents.php?folderid=1
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

How the fuck does Hero Forge stay in business? Their entire aesthetic is generic as fuck and their cheapest models look worse than Reaper's while costing 300% as much and their better quality ones range from $30 to $100

Working on my Malakim Phoros made primarily from the Primaris Apothecary and Sangunary Guard bits. Waiting for the green stuff to dry then I have to clean up the mess I made and apply a filler.

Idea is to have his helmet attached to his waist and sculpted it and the head to try and look like the pic I included Not sure how well it's gonna turn out. Also I'm still stuck on what weapons I want to use and I need to try and make his arm left arm (which will be the wrist mounted inferno pistol one) also carry the Glaive of Lamentation which I also need to try and make it look longer.

As for the right arm, I don't know what would be better. For him to be holding some dog tags (which I am not sure space marines have) or to be holding a destroyed Lamenters helmet. Another user also mentioned a neat idea of having sand spilling from between his fingers.

Any ideas with what else I can do to the mini sculpting wise?

dnd personalized stuff, basically

Dog tags aren't really a thing for marines, and while I don't want to doubt you and your sculpting abilities - sand dripping through his hand is probably not really doable, so I'd go with the destroyed helmet. But if you can make it work, the sand could be cool too.

I am a pretty novice sculptor so it's probably something way out of my ability. I just remembered seeing a video some months back on a tutorial on how to make a coagulated blood effect so it stretches and looks thick. Figured maybe something like that but use some fine sand.

Obviously would need to test that out before ever applying it to the mini.

Added another four to the bunch.

Go with the helmet. Dog tags are reserved for guardsmen and would be hellish to model. I'd also recommend just magnetizing one or both of his arms, giving you free range with his weapons. Given that he is a Lamenter, i'd add some wear and tear to his armour and maybe a blood drop or two here and there, they are sons of Sanginius, after all.

If you are a beginner, then here is my advice: Don't go overboard. Less is more, a minimal model with fine details looks much better than a maxed out model with tagged on bitz and greenstuff and a botched paintjob.

Also managed to finish my Dark Apostle in the same batch. Only five more to go and the squad is finished!

I mean, you could always try and test it, don't get me wrong. It's probably just really hard, so as you said: better do it on a testmodel first.

That being said: Reposting my Knight and asking again what /wip/ is working on.
I'm working in the nightshift and don't really have anything to do.

Anyone got that guide to painting the Lamenter's pauldron?

Sure, but at those prices? I bought a giant box of ancient, half-painted pewter minis years ago for $20 and it's pretty much all I've ever needed.

>i'd add some wear and tear to his armour and maybe a blood drop or two here and there

Armor is gonna be gold so it'll be neat trying to make it look scratched up. Also I was considering adding something to one of the knee plates, so a blood drop may work.

>just magnetizing one or both of his arms
Would like to try to model both weapons on one arm, or maybe is sword dug into the ground (or a slain nid).

Here you arm, senpai

First in last out

Well I'm going to say I"m about 50% done with them. I want to stick with this color scheme, but I need some accent colors for the more random pics on them like the harnesses, some of the trim. Even their armor, I'm worried about just going all Silver/Metal would be a bit boring looking.

What do you guys think, what color wash should I wash them with then I'm done? Would a dark dark wash be better for lighter models?

>why does custom ordered shit cost so much more
>ok yeah I get it but look I just bought a bunch of old shit super cheap so...?
You seem to lack a fundamental understanding of business. Someone explained to you why a custom factory order or garage tuned race car costs more than a standard production model and you replied that your junkyard Honda only cost $200. If you don't want what HeroForge is offering, which is mainly customization, of course you don't pay their higher prices. On the other hand, people who don't want the same crappy junk you settled for aren't going to stop throwing money at HeroForge just because you have an opinion.

This is basic human relations 101, are you a literal autist or sociopath or something?

...

...

same question

trapsing through a muddy field with pristine little boots looks a bit wrong to me, I'd scuff the feet a bit

Thoughts? Suggestions? I'm no master painter clearly, but I'm tired of my models having like the flat dull look... Would washing/inking them at the end atleast add some shading and dimensin?

I can understand wanting a custom mini but $100 for any 28mm scale mini seems outrageous and the only other option that doesn't look like it fell into a vat of acid is plastic and costs several times what similarly detailed plastic minis do.

You should watch some of Duncans youtube videos, it'll give you some good tips on painting.

Damn $100 for a regular infantry size model? D&Dfags are crazy. I've seen them say shit like spending $200 on a Monopoly type board game or single game book a good deal too, and people say war gaming is overpriced.

Well people will pay those prices probably because it's what the market will bear. No cheaper alternatives offering the same service and a price still low enough people will actually pay it = sales. That's just how economics works. Just because you or I wouldn't buy it doesn't mean someone else won't. Plenty of shit I want to buy but can't afford and plenty of shit I would never buy but can't afford, but the market bears those prices.

ugh, I was afraid someone would suggest that guy...is he really that good of a teacher? Besides the whole thin paints meme, which I already do, what's some actual advice that he gives that's so great?

Nigga you don't even have washes on those you're in no position to spurn even the shittiest tutorials, even those suggest a sloppy wash or even a dip

Don't be another Dunning-Kruger statistic you overconfident chump

Duncan is overrated and not very advanced but the standard he teaches is still far above your current work

Replace grey with silver and give it a black or dark brown wash for easy massive improvements

Fuck you Duncan is a saint

Alright, /wip/

I have a weird question. Orc arms with black powder firearms. I'd even just be happy with black powder orcs as a single kit, but I could make due just replacing the bow arms of the basic orc mini these are derived from with proper handgun ones. I could live with using them just as archers, but I'd really love to actually get a useful unit out of 'em instead of just shitty fucking archers. The archers themselves are just Mantic's basic orcs with different arms, so I don't expect a lot of trouble slotting in other arms to turn 'em into handgunners. But I'm pretty sure that actual Empire Handgunner arms would look pretty out of place on 'em.

He bakes crunchy cookies instead of chewy ones. He's a Nazi.

>Fuck you Duncan is a saint

Quite literally!

Thanks

>now repeat 30-60 times

Lamenters players on for those we cherish watch.

Any tutorial is better than none, and imho Duncan does a great job teaching basics and sometimes a bit more advanced techniques. Personally, I like the short videos a lot, just a quick explanation what he does and why he does it, and the result of that. I don't need to watch him paint the entire miniature in realtime just to get a grasp of "paint all metallic bits silver".
He's still a studio painter for GW, doing the kind of paintjobs that go on the webshop and advertisment, bear that in mind. And there's probably quite a difference between his personal/studio work and a tutorial for lil' Timmys first Space Marine. So maybe he isn't the kind of guy who paints up Slayer Sword tier miniatures all the time, but I wouldn't say he's bad or overrated.

His tutorials are overrated. There's only so many times he can show us how to basecoat, wash, layer, and edge highlight, or how to dry brush power armor.

The last time I was impressed by his tutorials was his neat lava base trick.

I'm not bragging and I'm not a good painter, but when it comes to tutorial level, he is bare minimum in technique.

He's a chaos god now too

I'd argue he is beginner level.
I wish I played against people with minis looking like his. But no, majority of people I find at the table have minis with paint slabbed on too thick, or covered with dry hair, or my favorite, no paint at all, not even primed.

You won't be winning any tourny's painting like he does, but for somebody that wants their guys to look table top presentable and in an easy fashion I have a harder time thinking of anyone else than Duncan to recommend.

As for being repetitive, yeah, majority of his videos is just showing you what paints you need for a certain scheme and how to apply it.

Quick afternoon work.

Hero Forge models are only $100 if you buy the most expensive material (bronze). Their cheap plastic is $15, the nice plastic is $30 and the steel is $35. Still a lot more expensive than the Bones equivalents but those prices aren't unreasonable if you want to use a custom mini for your character or for key enemies.

As I said, that's what's the intention. Tabletop quality for Timmys Space Marines, mostly. The longer, miniature-specific tutorials sometimes have some extra blending, glazes and stuff, but always optional and to give the miniature a bit better look than just standard quality.
But hey, I think it's good for beginners, and once you're capable of the basics, you could always branch out into the hundreds of other tutorials on youtube. Airbrushing, wetblending/feathering, NMM and so on. But jumping straight to NMM on your first miniature will probably look like hot dogshit.

> majority of his videos is just showing you what paints you need for a certain scheme and how to apply it.

Well, they take these suggestions from their fan page, so maybe its the people who are the problem, not the content itself

Sorry, meant for

I'm only painting one and this yellow alone makes me want to kill myself

Prime white or yellow, not Black. Or grey, that helps too. Everything is better than yellow (and white, for that matter) over a black primer.

>Besides the whole thin paints meme, which I already do
Sure doesn't look like that from here.

Why do you not listen to good advice?

Oh, and related question. Other than the one unattached hat that comes with the Empire Greatswords, is there any other good place to get pompous feathered hat bitz?

I did grey then coats of Averland Sunset but I ran into the problem of thinning my paints too much so I'm starting over. Just fuck yellow

Well, that must've stung. To add some insult to injury: get a smaller brush and neaten up those straps on the horses and the lines on the shields, and I think some of the gold too.
Then watch a tutorial on recess shading/shading in general, to add a bit depth to them. When all is dry and eventual splodges of shade neatened up again, watch a video about edge highlighting, and do as such.
Really, it doesn't have to be Duncan at all, but there's no shame in watching tutorials.

Also, did you prime your miniatures? There's a lot of grey peeking through on some horses particularly, not sure if that's colour or unpainted plastic.

You can just use the averland sunset spray. It works as a primer + basecoat

What kind of wet pallete do you use? I just use a folded sheet of baking paper put inside the lid of an old box, with a papertowel inbetween the baking paper. Then I add just enough water so that the papertowel is damp, just slightly wet, and when I use the paint from there it stays wet and gets thinned down at the same time. Just don't add too much water at the first try, you can always add more. And make sure the baking paper isn't waxed, or the water can't get through.
Might help with your problem of runny paint, and gives you longer use of your paint.

Imo that's the kind of thing you do for your chapter master. Everyone else gets a blood angels decal or a blank white pad because they ain't a OG.

I’ll get in that when I get home. I thought I was missing something

>It works as a primer

Not very well, but I guess you're technically right.

Too drunk to keep painting, going to have to call these done. I'll varnish them in the morning.

Why is Steel Legion Drab the absolute perfect base rim colour for Fantasy stuff? It seems inexplicable.

I think I'm in love with Stormcast. Before today I had no thoughts towards playing AoS or buying any Stormcast but painting these things (with the exception of Steelheart's cloak) just felt good.

I may go grab a SC box for them when I bring Shadespire to the FLGS tomorrow to play.

they look really nice, only thing I'd recommend is making the skin a bit paler to contrast the armour a bit more.
I'm waiting for the skellys to be released before I get into shadespire.

I'm patiently waiting for the Sepulchral Guard (people have probably noticed by now that I loves me some undead) as well but I want to play now.

I was going to make Steelheart's skin paler, but I hate painting faces and he seems like the kinda dude who'd spend a lot of time outdoors and get a tan anyway.

Those all look pretty great my man.

>Why is Steel Legion Drab the absolute perfect base rim colour for Fantasy stuff? It seems inexplicable.

Because

- When you have an unmatching base, like urban grey, it provides a not-eye-bleeding contrast that clearly delineates the rim
- When you have a close base, like desert or dirt, it blends in nicely
- Nobody actually has steel legion drab colored basing material. I bet it would look shit if the entire base was SL drab.

Ryza skitarii. (They're more tabletop, than display quality)

what can I do better with the next batch ( I have 15 more to paint)

made a bit of progress, still need to get the metallics, accesories and various tubes done

hnnngggghhhhh

Looks like you're going a little overboard with the wash.

Basic 'block in 3 colors and wash the motherfucker' painter here. I'm not a great painter by any means and I when it comes to 40k I only paint because having an unpainted army is fuck ugly.

How can I add drybrushing to my repertoire without complicating and/or dramatically increasing my painting times? I play IG and I imagine I really can't dry brush a Guardsman, unless I maybe paint all the green in, drybrush something over that, and then finish the rest of the model.

A fitting punishment for traitor sympathizers.

Slammin!

definitely white dwarf material

get a paper towel and blob some paint on your brush, and give it a wipe until you get your amount of dryness. sorta keep doing that untill you get a wetspot on the paper towel, and use that as a really thin pallet, it drys out super fast under a lamp when your painting, so its less work of wiping as you go.

its the harshest on your brushes way to do it, but its super fast and very very easy. just remember you want build up on your paper, not your brush. wash your brush often, and use your worst for dry brushing.

inking is even easier! get more paper towel and cut it up into tiny little half in but half in triangles and squares, then practically drench your mini in ink wash, then use the paper towel to soak up the parts you don't want dark! easy! less wok then waiting for it to dry and highlighting. works on literately any color.

prime, base, 'thick' highlights, dry brush, ink wash, thin highlights. use the same color for your highlights and the thick layer will be darker from the ink,, so your 'thin' layer will look different.

Don't sweat the thick highlight, like fucking huge lines will work, as long as they are consistent thickness, they will look good once inked.

GOODLUCK!

kinda shit pic of mu goons, but you know those wrinkles on cadian arms? just make any part that is bumpy a slightly lighter color via dry brushing and it looks pretty good once you get brown ink over it. same with the helmet ears, get a line around the edges and a smug on the top of the head. fake zenith lighting in one step.

if your really poor/lazy, you can use the base color to dry brush over your ink wash.

thearmypainter.com/documents.php?folderid=1

read this, its an advertisement, but armypainter works better then the modern GW stuff nowadays.

I've started tinkering with my stormcast warband for Underworlds

I'm thinking about surprising my son with a few squads of Marines. He made up an army in one of his writing books, named the army 'Grave Ravens'. So Veeky Forums What colour scheme should the Grave Ravens have?
I'm a fairly competent painter, so it needn't be too simple.

I gotta say m8 your color scheme is one of my favourites on /wip/

Light grey with black heads. Black trim on the shoulders and a white field for the shoulders. One arm black as well.

WIP shot of my first Chem-Dog guardsman, what do you guys think?

I like the helmets, but you are gonna clean up those mould lines right?

yup, it's only dry-fit with blue-tack.

Like this?

Looks real good, I'd question why his sleeves are rolled up in an environment toxic enough to need a gas mask though

That doesn’t look as good as I thought it would have lol.

Use one of these.

He looks a bit bug-eyed, but overall I like it.

Here’s my chem dog medic.

Oh, it's not toxic enough, his filter is full of drugs.
I quite like that! I've got quite a heap of gasmask heads, so I'm filing through those, and my Vic Lamb ones before I get to my GSC bits.

Shine bright like a

What’s the actual body you’re using? It looks third-party.

Round two!

...

Bit List
>Head: Max Mini Tox Trooper
>Backpack: FW Kreiger
>Body and Arms: Vic Lamb Torso and rolled sleeve lasgun arms
>Legs: GW Catachan
I actually have like, a fuckload of 3rd party bits. The goal is to randomly build troopers, want them to look like a horde of rabble.

Badass, love to see the different interpretations of the same regiments.

I’m going to for a more uniform look, but weighed down with loot, backpacks and general knick knacks.

GULLIMAN?

GOOOOODS WHAT A STUPID NAME

Big mold line on the foot user.

Do all small brushes shed hairs like crazy, or is that just something GW ones tend to do? I've got 3 small brushes all in varying fucked up states, it's really frustrating working with them.

Cool stuff, keep it coming.

You can polish that turd for as long as you want, but that doesn't change the fact, that it's all recast china shit under that paintjob. Why even fucking bother to put in that kind of work if it's not going to change the illegitimacy of your models in the first place? Makes me really think you are trolling.

Nice and clean, i like it!

Love the bases, the models themselves look a bit bland.

>mouldlines
>thikk paint
>shit picture

Just kys already and get it over with user.

>brushes shed hairs
Then your brushes are fucked. That should not happen.

That's something that cheap brushes do, regardless of the name on the tin.

What brands can I trust to last longer? having to go around just for a new brush for like, every 2 units I paint is incredibly annoying.

i can anti-recommend some brushes and that is citadel and army painter as army painter only lasts for around a model or two for me as well.

I like your space sharks dood

Would one use a yellow wash or a yellow glaze to make gold trim look more yellow?

Painting a spellcrow Doktor.
The GW models have a lot of character but he look a bit weedy for a 4-wound model.
Front isn’t done yet, but it’s looking alright so far.

Yeah, he does. Watch his videos you hipster douche.